6G Celicas Forums

Front or rear? I have the front GT one that bolts to the firewall, but it's a pickup only item unless you want to pay extra for me to pack it and ship it. I'm in NJ.

It would help if you were more specific. Some cars have 2 catalytic converters. There were 2 different length rear catalytic converters based on car emissions type (federal or California). Did your exhaust manifold break along with front cat, or did your rear cat broke with some piping underneath the car?

Junkyards, by law, are not allowed to sell used catalytic converters. Hefty penalties apply.

I have a spare exhaust manifold with primary cat. I'm not really interested in letting it go for cheap though, as I'm keeping it as a hard to find spare.

Some earlier 6GCs came with shocks that had a bolt in shock insert. KYB sells replacement inserts.
Aftermarket shocks were all welded.
Some inserts, such as Koni's, required cutting and drilling stock cartridge to install.
Not familiar with Stagg, but you may want to reach out to them for installation instructions. Or, at lease post a picture here or something. Your description is not very good.

I don't think there are "easiest options", really.

If you want the OEM 3SGE cluster to work, you'll need to run the extra wires from shifter or ecu to the cluster. It's not terribly complicated but it is tedious, as you need to figure out which wires need to go where and where the splices will be.

If you are ok with aftermarket gauge, I'm sure it's going to come with instructions of it's own. Though I'd figure it out beforehand, just to make sure it's compatible with the Japanese wonder that the Celica is.

These aren't CAN-BUS cars, so in a way it's easier to get it to work just by running the wires. Figure out which way you want to go an report back.

Read the VIN from the block and figure out what car it came from.
Short of that, look for various posts describing the differences b/w the different generations and figure it out. Could be mix of different components though, as some parts interchanged and/or were upgrades from one gen to the next.

Tie rod has to be at the same angle as the control arm at ride height, with both being parallel to the road at stock ride height. Lowering the car screws with that by changing the ride height angle of both.
When fixing the angle of the tie rod on a lowered car, same has to be done to the control arm by getting the extended ball joints. If the guy in the video only changed the tie rod, then yes, his steering geometry would be even more messed up than it was from simply the car being lowered.

Never heard of this, but would be curious to know the answer. Toyota is pretty good about keeping that kind of interchangeability, so I could see it happening. Not sure about the brakes though, as Prius uses thinner front rotors.
Also, any other Toyota 5x114.3 hubs bolt to the Prius knuckle? I know there's a way to do 5x113.3 conversion with Rav4 spindles, but this way would be next level for those interested.

I mean, the looks are fitting of current gen hot hatches, sure. But, why is this thing so heavy? 3,249lbs? A mildly tuned GT-Four would weight less and make more power, with tons more power potential. I just don't see any tuning room in the 3 cylinders of fury of the Corolla - let's hope I'm wrong.

But, I have to give them credit for the stick shift. Solid move, Toyota.

Would I want one? Not sure. Good question.

Location? Price?

Dang, this is a hell of a forum necro. Good old thread necro is humbled today. Glad to see it back!

The pulsing on the fuel line is probably normal. The pump is pumping, you're feeling the individual pumps.

As for your multimeter video, either the multimeter is not responding fast enough or the o2 is dropping out. No way to tell without a graphing function.

You're either gonna have to start investing in some tools and learning some more, or start throwing parts at it and hope something sticks. The latter is not ideal, of course, but many find themself in your situation.
You could try to bring it to a shop, but it's very, very hard to find a shop these days with a qualified tech that has the knowledge to diagnose anything, especially on an older car. Most shops these days just throw parts at the problem and never bother to diagnose.

7A/1ZZ/2ZZ engines were paired to C-series transmissions. 3S/5S were paired to S-series transmissions. BEAMS 3S comes with S54 transmission from factory, plus LSD.
I don't know if the C-series box will bolt up to a 3S engine - maybe, I just don't know.
You can swap the S-series transmissions to an E153 transmission, need axles and other shenanigans. But, while the E series transmission is very robust (supposedly good for 600hp), it is quite a bit heavier. 50lb or so if memory serves me right. S series is good for 200-250hp. You'll never get even close to 250hp out of a BEAMS engine NA, so why bother? There's no point in bolting a Turbo to a high compression BEAMS engine - it would be a disaster. Much better off starting with a 3SGTE if you intend to Turbo down the road.
Also, before you complain about the gears being long, have you driven the BEAMS engine, yet? The gears are so long because the engine revs so high. You need long gears for that engine. You could also swap the final drive in an S-series box, but it is quite an endeavor (I've done it, the whole transmission needs to come apart completely).
Hope this helps.

I used Morimoto RetroRubber a few months back when I had to open up the headlights and refurbish them a bit for my LeMons Celica. Worked fine, excellent reviews. Once I got the process down (bake, open reseal, re-bake), it was very simple.
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-...UTYL?quantity=1

WRC cars have some of the WRC hardware that is disabled. Like, intercooler sprayers, piping for anti-lag injectors (I forget the rest). So it is a little different, though power output should be same. Someone had enabled the anti-lag injectors if I remember right, though it's not as easy as on some other FIA homologation special cars. If I were looking for a collector grade ST205, that extra hardware would sure command a premium.

Welp, you were the one to bring comparison to a Supra in your first post. But, the GT4 was really in a class of Evo, WRX STI, and it's values would be more in line with the class. Supra was a competitor to the 3000GT, Nissan GT-R, that sort of thing. Different production numbers, too. If someone wants a Supra and can't find one, they're more likely to settle for a Nissan GT-R rather than a Celica GT4, and that reflects in the prices, ya know.

Fans can be tricky to diagnose... First, test the fans themselves: disconnect the radiator fan switch plug at the bottom of the radiator, and the fans should turn on and stay on regardless of the radiator temp. (in other words, don't do what you did risking overheating the radiator).
If the fans don't turn on, start chasing relays. There's more than one radiator related relay. Check fuses, too.
If the fans do turn on, check the radiator switch itself. It should be closed (as in, no resistance) when cold, and open when hot. It if's open when cold, the switch is bad.
Give that a try, let us know what you find.

Vacuum leak? That's one thing that gets better at higher RPM, as the engine is gulping more air and the leak has less affect on the engine. The AFR is really lean, too, which means you've got more air and not enough fuel, naturally. There are several backyard methods to test for this, depending on how well equipped you are with tools (everything from a spray bottle to a smoke machine).
Or, bad O2 sensor reporting incorrect readings. What's the history of the O2 sensor? Do you have a scanner capable of reading the O2 output? I know things are a bit weird with JDM ECU's using a different protocol, but never had one so don't know.
My hunch is on the O2 here. When the ECU switches into CL, it starts running off O2 output rather than pre-set maps, and it sounds like too much for it to be just a vac leak. Could be both though.

A bone stock example of almost any car will be worth more than a modified one. There are very few cars that are worth more than stock in modified form, and the only ones that I know off involve modifications made by reputable shops (Singer modified Porsche 911, for example). Whatever you do at home will more likely decrease the value, hence why some people obsess about modifications being 100% reversible.
With that said, the numbers here for ST205 are unlikely to be large, so it may just be more valuable to you to have fun with the car and enjoy it rather than worry about resale value and mileage. True, most desirable collectible cars have basically no miles and all original paperwork, but all their original owners ever did with those cars is look at them. Is that what you want?

No way to tell without a crystal ball. Got one?
Supra had a big boost from the Fast&Furious franchise. Also, it was a halo sports car for Toyota, a pinnacle of tuning potential not seen before or since (the jury is still out on the Zupra). Sure, there was the 2000GT and the LFA, but those are low volume cars in a different class altogether.
As for the ST205, it does not have the pop-culture element and its rally history is marred with a scandal. In some ways the scandal might help, but probably not as much as rally success without one would have. Look at things like Corvair for example - the scandal is maybe the primary source of interest in the car, but it's only enough to sustain mild appreciation compared to other cars of the era.
There's also no continuation for the Celica. The ST205 was the end of the line for rallying - 7G Celica hardly had any motorsports participation, and Toyota switched to Corolla and now the Yaris for rallying. While the Zupra is back, and there's a slimmer of hope the MR2 will see the light of day again, chances of a new Celica are slim to none.
Will the ST205 have some value? I'm sure it will, but I don't see it appreciating anywhere close to the pace of the MkIV Supra.

Nice find! I would guess that the Yaris is lighter, too. Certainly looks to be. New cars use thinner sheet metal (even 7G Celica had thinner skin vs 6G), engine is probably all aluminum and likely significantly lighter than the iron-block 3SGTE. Shorter wheelbase helped the Yaris on a smaller track, maybe the Celica would have more of a shot with it's higher top speed on a longer track.

The technology always moves forward.

Do a little more research, there's plenty of excellent info right on this forum. Find some swap threads, etc.

3SGE vs 3SGTE, the factory turbo motor has different pistons which give it the lower compression. To get 3SGE to that level of compression will require GTE pistons, which pretty much means engine rebuild. Much easier to start with 3SGTE in the first place. Standalone is not strictly necessary, you can use the factory ECU for either engine you get, GE or GTE. Any option will require considerable wiring shenanigans though, so standalone is not really any easier. All depends on your budget.

Good luck, and have fun with the car.

You need 96-97 ECU because your car is 96 and you have 96+ distributor with external coil, harness, OBD2 port, and emission crap. 94-99 Fed injectors are same. If you want to convert all that crap to 94 to run 94 ECU, more power to you.

Yep, the lime green with narrow tip is Cali injectors. The dark green are federal.
Besides the potential vacuum leak, the injectors also have a different flow rate:
CA injectors, 23250-74140, 264cc
Fed, 23250-74100, 228cc

Sounds like you had CA spec car and converted it to Fed spec. First, make sure that you've blocked off the injector vacuum assist tube - it should be a hose running from the back-side of the intake hose next to the TB to the back of the head. If you left that hose disconnected, there's a sizable vacuum leak for you.
Next, to make things right, you'll need to get yourself a Fed spec ECU so that it can drive the injectors correctly. You're looking for 96-97 year ECU. 98-99 won't work, neither will 95 and earlier.

The only injectors that are different on 6GC would be the California vs Federal emissions injectors. IIRC, the Cali injectors have light green plastic, and Fed ones are dark green. Cali injectors have more business going on on the tip, as there's extra holes on the sides for vacuum assist. The Cali head also has the extra port b/w injectors 2 and 3 for the said vac assist. If you did not hook this up, you'd have a sizeable vacuum leak which could very well be causing at least some of your problems.
Other than that, look for vac leaks in general, and/or malfunctioning IACV. Did you use your original IACV, or the new one? If the new one is acting up, it may be defective - try the original one.

It'll "run", as in start and rev, on the 5SFE ECU. If you're looking to tune it to make any more power, that's not happening. I suppose you could install larger injectors and hope that enough of the fuel map coincides with the new engine's displacement, and then your engine will run pig rich at idle. But really, tuning the engine with injector size is not how you want to tune the engine. Worst case, you blow the engine up because the ECU is trying to control an engine it cannot.
You could try a piggyback, but any decent piggyback (Greddy eManage Ultimate) costs $400+ and will cost as much if not more to tune than a standalone, so it only makes sense if you need the stock ECU for govt emissions purposes.
There's no such thing as cheap power gains.