Jun 18, 2007 - 6:24 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #569809 · Replies: 19 · Views: 3,335 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
I have mine under the driver's seat and 6 disc changer under the passenger seat. This is my amp http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TscWM0YyLKG/c...sp?I=500MRVF345 The amp is a little cramped but I have NEVER had a problem with overheating. |
Jun 8, 2007 - 9:59 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #566530 · Replies: 12 · Views: 2,840 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
I don't know if this helps but when I bought my car (used) the CC worked intermittently. Then I discovered that on the back of the CC lever, a small rectangular box was falling out. When I pushed it in and the switch made contact, the CC worked, but it kept working it's way out. So, I took some crazy glue and put a few drops on the back of it and pushed it back in and held it for a few minutes and it has worked ever since! |
Nov 23, 2006 - 8:25 PM | Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #504857 · Replies: 5 · Views: 2,571 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
Where exactly in PA? |
Nov 23, 2006 - 10:36 AM | Forum: General Discussion · Post Preview: #504741 · Replies: 17 · Views: 4,390 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
Yeah I got one too. I do have the blue smoke upon start-up but the funny thing is that I never got it checked because, from all the posts I read on this site, it sounded like it was normal and no big deal. So supposedly I can get it fixed for free BUT it says in the letter that you had to make "reasonable maintenance efforts". So the question is, what is "reasonable maintenance efforts"? Do I lose out because I didn't take my car to the dealer to get the oil changed? Or follow their maintenance schedule? We'll see, as I plan on checking into this. Good luck to all those that got this letter. |
Aug 27, 2006 - 10:11 AM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #473366 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,183 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(LeonStryfe @ Aug 26, 2006 - 1:19 PM) [snapback]473149[/snapback] Out of curiosity does anyone else have a metallic lookign box right below the driver seat? What the heck is that? Looks an amp to me Yes, that is an amp. If you have 3 speakers in each door(woofer,mid,tweet) then you have 2 amps. One is where we all have it under the stereo in the dash and the other is under the driver's seat. |
Aug 26, 2006 - 2:34 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #473145 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,183 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(LeonStryfe @ Aug 26, 2006 - 11:33 AM) [snapback]473136[/snapback] I've gotten to point where I had everything off. I followed the instructions that I read from here and I was doing pretty well till I got to the factory amp. There is a blue connector located tightly below it that I needed to disconnect. X_x I'm stuck at this part. Any idea how to take it off? I've tried but it's just damn tight to take off? what did ya'll do? Thanks Well it's been a while since I've done this but here's what you need to know: The wiring from the factory stereo goes into the factory amp, then another bunch of wiring comes out of the factory amp and goes underneath where it splits into 2 blue connectors. This wiring that goes under the amp was held in place by a fastener on my car thus making it almost impossible to get to the 2 blue connnectors. SO, what I did was remove the amp entirely. As for pulling out that blue connector that you mentioned, I don't know, but the goal here is to get to those 2 blue connectors underneath the amp. That is why the aftermarket wiring harness has 2 connectors. If you don't already have it just look for the one that says Toyota 1987 and up. Oh, and if you want to remove the amp like I did, you're probably going to have to remove the center console trim to get at it. Even though this is a lot of extra work, it's worthwhile in my opinion, and once it's done allows MUCH easier access to the amp and the wiring. Good luck! |
Aug 1, 2006 - 7:10 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #464249 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,063 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(dan85204 @ Aug 1, 2006 - 6:28 AM) [snapback]463987[/snapback] my gas pedal seems to stick, and takes a little more force to push it down initially. i thought it might be the spring on the throttle body that was sticking, but i oiled that with some WD40, and it didn't work. i don't think it is the throttle cable itself because this doesn't happen when the car is off, only when it is running. does anybody have any idea why this is happening? Mine did that but it mostly stuck after I was sitting at a light for a few minutes. It RARELY stuck while I was cruising and then tried to accelerate a little more. It felt like there was a brick or something under the gas pedal and then you push harder and VROOM, you take off. I'm not sure the cause but I took it to the Toyota dealer and they fixed it for like 80 bucks. |
Jul 19, 2006 - 4:35 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #458252 · Replies: 30 · Views: 9,235 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
I know everyone wants to do things without having to cut or drill holes but, in my LHD, I drilled a hole in the left upper corner from the brake pedal through the firewall and it couldn't have been easier. Either use a grommet to seal around the cable or put silicone sealant around it like I did. |
Jul 19, 2006 - 4:25 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #458247 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,211 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(hashmaster52 @ Jul 19, 2006 - 7:22 AM) [snapback]458091[/snapback] does anyone know where i could get that piece that goes in the back of the hatch? the one that lifts up when u open it? i went to the dealer yesterday and the guy said 375$! i couldnt find one on ebay either. so if anyone could help thatd be koo. thx. Yeah, the amazing thing is that they say that price with a straight face. It's a large piece of thick plastic with some very thin carpeting - costs no more than like $10-$20 to make. Anyway, I bought mine from a guy off this site for $40. It was in pretty decent condition but there was some wear so I re-carpeted it with some fabric that I bought. Maybe if you find one that's kinda beat up, you can do the same. Check a junkyard or keep checking Ebay. |
Jul 7, 2006 - 5:26 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #453157 · Replies: 13 · Views: 3,030 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
Kudos for all the hard work and ingenuity! I would never do that because they stick out too far and would get kicked around and dirtied. I don't think our cars have enough space down there for a custom kick panel but hey, if you're happy with the results and can live with it, then great! |
Jun 26, 2006 - 10:12 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #449278 · Replies: 3 · Views: 1,849 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(Niskyspy @ Jun 26, 2006 - 7:29 PM) [snapback]449253[/snapback] Well, I had nothing to do this weekend so I started another car audio project. The whole idea of this project was to create speaker holder that will produce better mid range frequencies. So here's a lil info on why I went with this design. To get the best mids out of a speaker, the speaker should be in free air environment (so no ported or sealed enclosure). The plastic that holds speakers in our cars is too enclosed and only let sound waves come out from the back at which point they hit metal door panel and reflect back to the speaker (when this happens the sound waves cancel each other out, and totally kill mids freq). What I tried to achieve with this project, is to create a better speaker holder. I used 3/4" MDF, made a pretty wide O-ring (which is better then plastic because its less likely to resonate), like you can see in the pics the holder has holes on sides (this was made on purpose, to let sound waves go side ways which will bring out more mid frequencies.) Well I guess this is it. Another good upgrade which will bring up ur mids is dynapad (made by dynamat) or use of egg shape foam (not a good idea in doors because of wet conditions). But both of these products will cancel out back waves from the speaker and bring up the mids. If anyone has questions about anything please ask! If anyone is going to do the same things, here are a couple of tips: 1) Use 3/4" MDF 2) Use Good liquid nail glue (something that wont fall apart from too much vibration, so same glue as people use to build subwoofer boxes) 3) Measure everything twice, then cut. This goes especially with the first peace because it should fit like a glove (because this part actually attaches to the door) 4) Use 100% silicone to fill in all the holes between the door and the first peace, and dont forget to screw it in with 4 screws (that u will need to buy because stock once wont fit) 5) Use hard plastic to guard the top of the speaker from wather (that comes down the door when its raining). EDIT: I just finished the passager side, and it sounds way better then it did before, cant wait until I put some dynapad on that thing. I actually never thought about replacing that plastic speaker mount - that's a pretty good idea. I just might try this. Nice job. |
Jun 24, 2006 - 10:51 AM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #448408 · Replies: 3 · Views: 2,063 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(elvasoshexai @ Jun 23, 2006 - 11:31 PM) [snapback]448340[/snapback] oh ic.. hm.. what's the biggest size speaker i can fit in there diameter size? can i fit speakers with 6" mounting diamater and 7" overall diamater or 7.125" mounting diamater with 8.375" overall diameter? Probably but you might have to make your own mounting bracket. Also, remember that the speaker opening in the trim was designed for the factory speakers, so you'll have to do some customization for anything larger than that. If you want some pics of the rear speaker with all the trim removed, email me. I don't know how to upload pics to a site to add them here and it's probably just easier to email them. |
Jun 23, 2006 - 10:32 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #448278 · Replies: 3 · Views: 2,063 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(elvasoshexai @ Jun 22, 2006 - 9:22 PM) [snapback]447901[/snapback] anyone know how deep is the space where the rear speakers are? could i fit something 3.75" deep or 4.75" deep? You can fit up to about 7" deep so yeah, no problem. |
May 11, 2006 - 3:08 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #432929 · Replies: 6 · Views: 2,464 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(Gunsnake @ May 11, 2006 - 11:53 AM) [snapback]432894[/snapback] Nice advice man, But you know, my OEM speekers sounds like craps and I think BOSE will not sound bad than now. I can have the whole kit or less than 200$ so I think it won't be a very huge loss of money. I know about the enclosure, I keep in mind that it won't sound like the car that it was design for. Do you think it's a bad idea ??? I have looked at my speakers this evening and think it will fit. I've taken some huge pictures in order to do a "How to". Keep in touch Thanks guys Yeah, for $200 it might be a worthwhile gamble. I can't comment on how they'd sound as I know nothing about Bose car audio. I can say that, unless they are unusually deep, they should fit no problem in the Celi. I think the Celi has at least 4 inches of depth in the rear and even more in the front. The one caveat with the front location is that the bracket that the speaker mounts to gets kind of narrow after a few inches. This shouldn't be a problem for MOST 6.5 in speakers but you never know. |
May 11, 2006 - 10:21 AM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #432841 · Replies: 6 · Views: 2,464 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(Gunsnake @ May 11, 2006 - 1:05 AM) [snapback]432774[/snapback] Hello, I know that these kind of topics have already be discussed, but I've checked, I haven't found the answer. I own a 1995 Celica ST (AT200). My sound system is the 6speakers kit (2tweeters near mirrors, 2 front door speaker, 2 rear speakers). 1) Is the front speaker size 6,5" (I've found it on this forum) 2) What is the size of the rear speakers ? 3) What's the depth of these speakers ? In fact, my project is to install a complete BOSE AudioSystem (coming from an Audi A4 or A6) in my Celica Do you have already heared about how to do it ? Do you think it'll be possible ? This is the kit I want to install. Please tell me if the depth of the speakers will match http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.de/BOSE-Soundsystem-Audi-A...1QQcmdZViewItem Thanks folks ! One piece of advice about Bose. Bose is big on enclosures for their speakers. I'm not positive that they have enclosures for their car speakers but I would look into it if I were you because this could have a huge impact on how these speakers will sound. Remember, these were FACTORY speakers for that car, which means that Bose probably had a lot of input into the design of where the speakers went and how they would be mounted. I'm not saying they won't sound good but I would just consider these factors before shelling out the money. |
May 5, 2006 - 4:40 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #430570 · Replies: 0 · Views: 1,267 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
This is a question for those who have Diamond Audio Hex comps installed. I think at least one person here has them. Anyway, my question is, will the tweeters fit into the factory location without any modification? I was thinking about buying the Hex 600 comps but when I saw the dimensions for the tweeter I didn't think they would fit. Thanks for any info. |
Apr 29, 2006 - 7:31 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #427980 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,948 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(Toyoca @ Apr 29, 2006 - 4:15 PM) [snapback]427966[/snapback] Is there anyway to remove the cd magazine in a disconnected changer? its a sony cdx-606 Yes, take it apart and turn the gears manually. |
Apr 20, 2006 - 4:58 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #424175 · Replies: 4 · Views: 2,010 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(bdog_v @ Apr 16, 2006 - 1:02 PM) [snapback]422225[/snapback] Hello all in my 94 celica GT I have come to realize the front factory speakers are shot so, I am wondering what to buy. Keep in mind I have the 3 speakers per door system and I run my own headunit and amp.. -My problem is I'd like to get a new "3" speaker system that would fit in the doors , like this system http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_compone...php?comp_id=121 however, the midrange speaker is too deep to fit in the factory holding location.... -Has anyone actually used an aftermarket 3speaker system and fit a mid range in the stock location???? THere just is not any room for something with a big magnet on its backside...... -Or are we forced to go with a 2 speaker system and only replace the tweater and woofer??? -But really if you can't go with the "3 speaker" replacement how much good is it to have a little tweater mounted up in the corner of the door like on a "2 speaker" system??? I think its the midrange thats close to your ear that makes a difference over say a all in one speaker system..... -So I'd like some decent bass since I have enough room down there to mount a larger woofer and clarity, so what should I use 3, 2, or all in one speaker system?????? Thanks guys got part #'s???? I would go with the 3 way, if it were me. Is cutting a hole in the door an option? Or is the glass right behind? If it didn't require major modification and you could fit a decent midrange then I would definitely do 3 way. |
Apr 16, 2006 - 9:32 AM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #422119 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1,470 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(slyd @ Apr 15, 2006 - 8:01 PM) [snapback]422006[/snapback] I have to do things in stages. my running Celica is my daily driver and the drift Celica is in a very early stage of development (and not running). For now I want to install a cheaper headunit (haven't decided on one yet, accepting suggestions). Install Optima battery. Install E-ram bracket for laptop. Install 8 inch Memphis MSYNC8 components in front doors running off a 2x75 MCA150 class AB amp. Later I will modify the rear speaker panels to be enlcosures for 8 inch MC84D subs running off a 2x150 MCA300 class AB amp. Add 2 VBF1 line drivers, a XO3 crossover, and a 1CBFMT capacitor for clarity. To finish off the system, I will build an indash carputer. More on that later... Overall a sound quality system. I spend 4-10 hours a day in my car driving to appointments. Questions: 1. Should I add the capacitor, crossover, and/or 1 line driver now, or wait for subs? 2. Could 10 or 12 inch subs possibly fit in rear speaker panels? Or 2 8 inch subs in each? 3. Any suggestions for headunit? I plan to replace it within a year or so. Preferably it should have a line in, although I could us a FM transmitter hooked to the audio out of my laptop. Lastly, this is not a request to buy, but if anyone has any extra audio equipment I would gladly take it off your hands so I don't have to spend money (or as much) right now. Here's my opinion: 1) Don't waste your money on a capacitor. They are just a band-aid. If your alternator can't handle the power you're drawing, then a cap just masks the problem until your alt dies. Crossover for what? The subs? Most amps will have built-in crossovers that you can adjust. I've never used a line driver so I don't know about their value. 2) 10 or 12's in the factory rear speaker location most likely wouldn't fit due to lack of depth. 1 8in could fit with some modification. Here's your biggest problem with putting subs in the factory rear location: MOST subs require an enclosure. I seriously doubt you could design an enclosure that has the proper volume for that speaker to fit in that space. You can still put a sub there but it won't sound nearly as good without an enclosure. 3) As for the head unit, I used to think the head unit didn't make much difference in sound quality, that is, until I bought my Alpine 9855. I'm not saying you have to spend $500 on a hu but don't get a low-end model either. |
Mar 26, 2006 - 6:29 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #413542 · Replies: 16 · Views: 3,293 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
I agree with SOME of what you said: I agree with putting more money into a better set of front comps than buying 4 speakers, but that's more personal preference than anything else. I also agree that a HQ amp will make MOST speakers sound better and that a HQ amp should be top 2 in priorities in building a system. I also agree that an amp more powerful than the speakers is better, but within reason. An amp that is TWICE as powerful as the speakers IS NOT within reason. You can, and probably will, blow them if the amp is sending the speaker a lot more than it can handle. I disagree that most subs are good. This is like saying that most mid-bass speakers are good. There is a spectrum of quality for all drivers, just like you experienced with the MB Quarts. Those are my 2 cents but I'm glad to see you're learning a few things about car audio. It's kind of fun, and expensive, trying to put together that ultimate stereo set-up. |
Mar 23, 2006 - 12:04 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #411902 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,253 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
partsexpress.com They have a ton of stuff like that at good prices. The only drawback is you usually have to order a minimum length for stuff like wiring, tubing, etc. Check it out though. |
Mar 23, 2006 - 10:54 AM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #411873 · Replies: 13 · Views: 3,755 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(Jeremiah @ Mar 23, 2006 - 12:27 AM) [snapback]411788[/snapback] Hey, how'd you get these speakers up high like this? If I do the 8" sub conversion in the front doors, I'd like to do some smaller speakers like this up higher. That is a factory speaker. Some cars had an 8 speaker package as an option. You could certainly put a speaker there yourself but it would require some customization on your part, including cutting out a hole in the door panel. |
Mar 9, 2006 - 5:46 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #405286 · Replies: 34 · Views: 8,633 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(JonCars17 @ Mar 9, 2006 - 12:30 PM) [snapback]405227[/snapback] what do you mean by "A very good unit"? The one I chose isn't the cheapest but isn't the highest either. on choosing an amp, do I add up the RMS like say I have a speaker at 70 rms and another for 75, do I need a amp of atleast 150 RMS or an amp of 75 rms minimum? This is my main problem, this is why I chose a mono amp to begin with 1000 rms at 2 ohms. As far as sound qaulity goes, what is the difference between a mono amp and a normal amp other than what was stated above (meaning mono is meant for subs only)?. By very good unit, I mean a well-respected brand like Alpine or Eclipse that has 4 volt (or better) pre-outs, high signal to noise ratio, wide frequency response and low total harmonic distortion. Generally, buying one of those respected brand names gets you all those things but it's always good to actually check the specs. If you're buying ffom Crutchfield, they should have all those specs available for you on their site. This way, you can compare, say a $200 Alpine and a $400 Alpine and see if the price difference is just features. Amplifiers are rated to deliver power into a certain number of channels. Most are 2 channels but there are also 4,5 and 6 channel, and mono amps are -you guessed it - 1 channel. You'll see these ratings expressed as 75 watts x 2, 100 watts x 4, 300 watts x 1, etc. If you have 2 speakers rated 70 rms and another pair rated 75 rms and are looking to power them all with the same amp then I would look for an amp that is rated at 75 watts rms x 4 channel. As far as sound quality of amps goes, I was just trying to make the point that there is more to an amplifier than the power it puts out. There's a lot of junk out there that promises lots of power but if you're amplifying a noisy signal then all you'll have is very loud noise. Check out the THD, signal to noise and frequency numbers and more importantly read user reviews online. Ask around, search the internet and get a general idea of what quality brands to look for BUT go listen to these brands if you can. Check out every car-stereo shop in your area and listen to all the different head units, speakers and amps that you possibly can. The bottom line is that you have to be happy with how it sounds. |
Mar 9, 2006 - 1:27 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #405176 · Replies: 34 · Views: 8,633 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
QUOTE(JonCars17 @ Mar 9, 2006 - 7:49 AM) [snapback]405051[/snapback] Does that mean I can have 2 subs per mono amp? The reason why I ask is because I may want to add another sub later on. Sorry for all the questions Yes you can BUT the amp has to be 2ohm stable. If you look at mono amps on Crutchfield, a lot of them will list a 4ohm and a 2ohm rating, for example 150 watts x 1 @ 4ohms and 300watts x1 @2ohms. What you will do is wire the 2 subs in parallel. This is basically hooking up 2 speakers to the same terminals. It may seem strange that you can do this but you can, as long as the amp can handle the load. I'm sure you've discovered by now that there are A LOT of different stereo configurations that you can have. For a very good SQ setup I would recommend 1)a very good head unit 2) as good a set of comps that you can afford 3) a high quality amp ( or amps ) and 4) at least 1 sub. What I was suggesting in my previous post about running the rears off of the head unit is that MOST people with a good set of comps up front fade heavily to the front so that the rears are just providing ambient sound. IF you decide to go this route, then why waste an external amplifier powering the rears when they're not using much power? My suggestion is to get a high power, high quality 4 channel amp and use 2 channels to power the comps and the other 2 channels to power the sub(s). Then use the head unit's built-in amp to power the rear speakers. Again, there are a lot of different ways you can go but YOU have to decide what's the best setup for you. |
Mar 9, 2006 - 5:38 AM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #405020 · Replies: 34 · Views: 8,633 |
Enthusiast Joined Dec 1, '02 From Pittsburgh, PA Currently Offline |
I guess I 'll throw in my 2 cents as well. First off, I respectfully disagree with what a couple posters said: 1) Sensitivity IS related to db. Sensitivity is the measurement of how loud a speaker plays given an amount of power. This is not a big deal if you're interested more in SQ but if you're looking to get the most volume for your buck then this is a spec to consider. 2) DO NOT match speakers and amps by their PEAK power rating. Peak power is what it can handle for a split second while RMS power is what it can handle continuously. I've seen peak power ratings for speakers and an amp that were the same while the RMS rating for the amp was almost DOUBLE that of the speakers. Try to match the RMS ratings and it won't hurt to have the amp be a little bit more. 3) As someone else said, I would not be too concerned about matching brands. Although Alpine does make good stuff, they're not the only ones. Some other good brands to check into are Eclipse, JL, Boston Acoustics, Diamond Audio and Precision Power. I'm sure you'll get many recommendations from many people, just do some research and keep an open mind about brands that you've never heard of before. Some final tips: When looking for a hu, look for a pre-out voltage of 4 volts or better Stick with the factory rear speakers and spend the extra money on better front comps Consider using the stereo's own amp to power the rears thus possibly eliminating the need for a second amp or at the very least allowing you to bridge to get more power |
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