6G Celicas Forums

It's for a gt4 so 4wd.

Yeah I was just seeing if I could get some interest see if anyone would like to come in on it as it's a minimum order of 20 pistons.

Yeah, unfortunately it's not looking likely for me doing a 5sgte build as I've spoken to a company who have done a few of them and slave's advice from early in this thread and it turns out there's way more work than others made it seem.

However in case someone from the UK happens to stumble on this thread in the future looking for 5sgte pistons, give "MKautorepairsandtuning" a call. Very experienced and very friendly, they made their own spec of je custom pistons so certainly worth giving them a call.

I'll be doing majority of the building myself, but I will be sending it off for specialist machining. I do have a micrometer but it's a chinesium one that changes it's zero each time you measure something I do have a decent DTI gauge but not a dial bore gauge, but for the bore I will be sending the block off for straightening of the bore, honing etc anyway so I would imagine it would be unnecessary for me to have one myself? Yeah I've got torque wrenches and the likes.

I've certainly got enough to assemble an engine, however precise measurements is a bit more tricky.

The only thing I am concerned about with the build is the stuff that is different to building a 3sgte, because I'm well within budget to do that as I helped a mate building a 3sgte and remember how much he spent on parts. So I'm not going to worry about buying some forged rods as I'd do that for the 3sgte anyway so the price there makes very little difference between a 5sgte and a 3sgte. I already had an eye on 3sgte parts that would happily take the power I'm after (400-450 ish), I'm not just after turning up the boost without changing fuelling, ECU, internals. My only temptation for a 5sgte is that I'm just concerned with the strength of the rev 3 block.

Is true blueprinting necessary for a road engine? I was planning on getting everything balanced by a local engine machine shop and already discussed setting bearing clearances with the 3sgte, however I have not discussed the 5sgte yet. It was my understanding that 5sfe and 3sgte main bearings were identical (links below), it's just big ends that are different so surely that shouldn't be too painful to do?


https://www.mr2oc.com/61-3sgte-turbo/460111...e-bearings.html
http://www.celicatech.com/forums/archive/i...hp/t-43478.html

10,000??? Yeah that's a fair bit beyond my wallet

I wasn't actually thinking of going beyond 500bhp anyway but mines a rev 3 block so I was just a touch concerned after hearing all of the speculations found on other threads relating to wall thickness.

I didn't actually expect it to be as high as that I thought it was a relatively straight forward swap, fyi I will be doing fabrication work myself i.e brackets, manifolds etc and I've already got a new turbo to fit, just in case that's a big chunk of the 10,000.

I thought it was relatively (using that word very loosely btw) straight forward, so long as you can find a block that's got some of the bolt holes drilled and threaded from factory which, apparently, exist.

The 3sgte is already out of my celica and I've been looking at some parts it's just that I came across the option of 5sgte builds which caught my eye.

Yeah I understand, but I really need as much information as possible, if it discourages me it's probably for the best and down to a lack of research on my behalf

Hi all.

So basically I'm considering doing a 5sgte build however as I am based in the UK I'm struggling to find good pistons, there is a few in the USA however import tax, delivery etc makes that a little bit out of reach.

However I'm looking into custom pistons, currently I am in talks with omega (only early stages but still). However as with many custom inquiries they need a minimum of 20 pistons to be ordered, so basically I'll need at least 4 other people to come along and get some custom pistons with me. This will be great for other people in the UK/EU doing a custom 5sgte build as it will give us access to high quality pistons (omega are VERY high quality). Unfortunately I am not certain on a price however I would guess the more people come along the cheaper it will become.

There will be a discussion in terms of how we spec these pistons in terms of fitment compression ratios etc before an order is placed, both on this forum and a few others.

Cheers

As per the title can the stock underseal on a JDM ST205 be painted over, either with primer, new underseal such as the stuff from 3m or dynax wax coating from bilt hamber (similar to waxoyl).

Hi, basically the old Toyota key broke apart, I did leave the actual FOB bit with the buttons in what I thought to be a safe place but now its done a runner.

Just wondering what my options are, I'd rather not have to call in a specialist to calibrate a new FOB because I'm guessing they will be expensive.

I don't know a lot about locking systems but is the receiver for the FOB a separate unit that sends a simple signal to each lock to lock it, if so is a "universal" receiver (if they exist) a possibility?

Or would fitting a used ST205 receiver and FOB be easier?

It is worth noting that the previous owner said that the alarm and/or immobiliser are both disabled, I imagine that would help as they probably wouldn't be too happy with a completely new unrecognised component has been fitted.

Thanks for the info

Yeah I definitely want to get it done properly, so its looking like there is no way to get that done without taking the shaft out, was wanting to avoid that but looks like I have no choice, I suppose I can fit my decat downpipe whilst I'm at it.

The shop I'm looking at that sells the billet impeller also do full balancing so I'll be able to send the shaft off and they'll send it back all lovely and balanced with a new impeller

Cheers

Hi, basically I have got the inlet housing off the turbo to clock it and in a bit of frustration I may have chipped the edges of a few of the impeller blades

So basically I'm just wondering if I could just fit a new impeller without taking the turbo out completely. So basically as long as the new wheel is balanced would I be right in saying that the entire turbo would not need re-balancing and can it be changed whilst in the car?

Also before I look how do you actually change the impeller? is there a way to stop the shaft spinning and just take the nut off and put the new one back on?


Was thinking of buying this https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod...nce-Design.html
Just in case anyone has had any good/bad experiences with them.

Cheers

Ahh yeah forgot about having to change the ignition timing, I'd have the same problem with lowering the compression too i would imagine?

Hi I'm probably going to do a forged rebuild this summer and I'm just wondering on peoples experience with boost and compression ratios.

It's a 3sgte rev3 and I am tempted to run about 15-16 psi with a 9:1 compression ratio, i know its only .5 up from stock but there is a fair bit more boost to go with it.
I should also be able to get front mounted intercooler by then and will of fitted decat downpipe, 3 inch front pipe and possibly a hybrid turbo from gt4 play.
I always fill up with tesco momentum which is 99RON and can always fit a water/methonal injection system if needs be for running the boost and compression ratio i want.

So yeah if anyone has done something similar to what i want or thinks it's a good/bad idea input is always welcomed, cheers.

Yeah it's odd but I think it just runs when you touch the throttle and then stays on for 30 seconds or so rather than varying how much it pumps so 7 volts is most likely a crappy earth or something, I'm not 100% certain on how it runs but I'm pretty sure thats it.

Yeah I jumped the two terminals and nothing, suppose there could be another crappy connection from the relay to the pump too but not 100% sure.

Ahhh ok so I'm probably looking at a blown fuse on the coil side too? Any idea which fuse this should be?

Hi basically I am struggling with my water pump for the charge cooler and I'm just doing voltage checks to see whats what.

Basically what I have found is that at the relay there is no voltage from the ECU for the magnet side of the relay, even when I give it a good rev there is no voltage across the two slots with the relay taken out.

Then for the slot that should supply the voltage to the pump is only getting 7 volts, so I then went to the CDS fuse and unplugged it to try and get a voltage but when I unplugged it there was no voltage at the pins and obviously none at the relay but then when I plugged it back in it all came back.
I did check there is continuity across the fuse, is there any point checking for resistance in this fuse? If so how much?

So has anybody got an idea or experienced this kind of problem?

Also I am checking it right aren't I, taking the fuse or relay out and probing where it should plug in and checking the potential difference (voltage) across?

Cheers mate, had a quick look around and yeah it seems like the only way to calculate centre of gravity without estimating is by lifting it whilst it's on some scales and calculating it, my university does have corner weight scales so might just see if I can arrange to do it in college at some point.

Not sure on the weight limits actually, I think they are for the formula fords so they might have a really low weight limit.

Yeah an estimation would be possible the only problem with that would be the tutors tend to be quite strict in terms of referencing and for me to just say "the centre of gravity is here" and then back it up by saying "I estimated it", probably won't fly in all honesty, then I could potentially lose a few marks because of it.

It's my bad man I worded it wrong, I said how far it is off the ground so then going to ride height is understandable

Ah actually my bad I did say how far it is from the ground, I meant where it is on the cars body.
Because obviously lowering it will change how far it is from the ground.

Yes but I'm not talking about ride height I'm talking about centre of gravity.
So basically the point that the mass of the car rolls around so couple that with the roll centre at the centreline of the car and this will give you an idea on how much body roll you will get, I think the further away the roll center is from the centre of gravity the more body roll you will get in theory, obviously there is more to it than that but that's a massive factor to take into account.

Lowering the car will only bring the centre of gravity closer to the floor it won't affect where it is on the car itself.

cheers but I think I need it more along the lateral and vertical axis, so is it centred to the car and how far is it off the ground.

Hi, I am just wondering has anybody ever calculated the centre of gravity on an st205?

Could do with it for my assignment at university as I am doing it on my st205, I'll then be able to calculate the roll centre and then determine what kind of body roll and how well developed the suspension is in comparison to the car. I can calculate roll centre but not centre of gravity as I'm fairly sure you need scales and need to be able to lift the car a certain amount to calculate it accurately.

So if anybody has gone this in depth and has recorded it could you please send it to me?

Cheers

Yeah oil scrapers are one of my worries, I would guess the compression rings would wear out at a similar rate to oil scrapers so compression and leak down check should show if they are on the way out, should be able to do it as soon as I've reffited the cam cover.

Not sure how to check stem seals, will have a look on Google

The cam cover gasket was leaking but that's about the only one I saw, however I did notice in part of the PCV system there was a bit of oil where it goes in behind the air filter, not sure whether that is normal or not.

True, I guess I need to wait for the leak down kit to see if it's rings.

Now thankfully mine isn't as bad as the one in that video, I would guess at worst my rings are on the way out rather than failing.

Annoyingly yesterday I came to do the compression test and unfortunately the tester is some old kit and the right adapter is missing so couldn't get it done, however I did notice oil pooling around the spark plugs, just about enough to cover the hex bolt section, I would guess this is rocker cover gasket?

Straight after the turbo seemed to be ok the only real issue was after the around the edges of the butterfly valve and at the back of the manifold.

It's been raining all morning but I'll have a look at getting it done later today along with trying to check the breathers.

Hi, I have noticed that my celica st205 has been going through a lot of oil, I think it was about 2 litres last week and it now appears to be back to the same low level it was before, basically for a while it has been dripping oil slightly, nothing serious about 5 drips a day however it has got a bit worse earlier today I did check the rocker cover bolts and they seemed lose however I did tighten them up a bit so hopefully this has solved the issue.

The main issue is that is now burning a lot of oil, I do notice that sometimes (but not all the time) dipstick gets pushed out ever so slightly so I thought it was rings but I would've thought that it would get pushed out after every drive? Sometimes on startup it doesn't smoke but then after idling for 20 seconds and it starts smoking a lot. My friend put his leg in front of it and later that night noticed later that night his pants were black and a bit wet so would've thought thats oil related.

I took off the charge cooler and had a little sniff inside and it is hard to describe the smell but it did seem slightly sweet/oily and if I open the throttle body I can see at the back of the manifold looks a little bit wet so could that be turbo leaking a bit of oil into the air stream?

I will be doing a compression check tomorrow to see how the rings are.

No no definitely not fluttering that would be a huge red flag.

Imagine the turbo spooling normally it TTSSSHHHH
It would then sort of go more like TtTsSsHhHh if that makes sense, it's only faint but still something that could be a problem.