6G Celicas Forums

Thanks for all the good input. I do have the 7A-FE . I will try out a thicker oil and see if that helps. Am I right in assuming I do not have rod knock if this is an issue that comes and goes? Or maybe that the rod joints have become fatigued do to not enough lubrication/cooling, and now as they heat up, they are expanding too much causing knock?

Im not sure. Just taking a stab in the dark. I have spent 100's of hours on my mr2 3sgte, and these engines don't share much in common...

Thanks guys!

Thanks for the advice. I will check the oil pressure. I am currently using 5w30 for viscosity. What would you recommend for a thicker oil?

Hi everyone,

After looking through a great many threads and posts, I haven't come across any definitive answers to the illusive "ticking under the valve cover" problem.

I have similar situations to others: Oil got to the low point on the dip stick, however, it was never too low as to not register - In my defence, I was about 1000 kms below my next oil change. Shame on me for not checking more often tho

I'm posting here now because the ticking comes and goes, without any sign, rhyme or reason. The best clue I have is it sometimes happens when the car is at it's hottest state after a reasonable drive on a mild day.

Any ideas? I can assure you all that I have confirmed that I am not hearing the injectors. Those guys ALWAYS tick (as they should).

Thanks for any input you might have!

Hi martinmr2. Thanks info! I am interested! Do you know what the kms would be on those? Also, do you have an mr2? I have a 93 white ttops turbo (currently in pieces)

Hey guys,

So I bought some low pros and alloys to put on my car, and at high speeds the steering wheel will shake. It comes and goes as I drive straight down the freeway. The difference in diameter from the OEM ones are about 1 inch smaller now. I have had the tires/rims balanced twice, the second time they said that both fronts were out about a half a gram. The problem still happens, so I called them again today, and the guy said that due to the difference in circumference, "the drive line is working harder" therefore causing the steering shake. To give you some numbers:
OEM (equivalent) according to google: 185/70 14
Current: 205/40 17

Difference between the two:
1.3 inches in dia.
2.3 inches in circumference
27 extra revs per mile

Is this pure bologna or are they telling me the truth (and I just don't want to admit these tires won't work)

Thanks!!

Hello all!

I am looking for some lowering springs. Used or new, looking for a good price. Thank you!

Wes

Hello everyone,

Spent an hour or so looking to find the outer diameter for the back section of the exhaust. Essentially my flange rusted out and busted off the pipe and I would like to get another one. So I need some dimensions! Does anyone know what they are or where to find them?

Wes

Hey Everyone,

First post for my 95 celica 1.8. I had some belt trouble for a while, particularly with my power steering pump and it squealing really bad on cold mornings. However, two days ago my alternator/water pump belt broke off, and it wasn't that old. Now to my actual issue: the moment I replaced the belt and tightened it down, I started the engine, and the worst sound you would ever want to hear was coming from I think the water pump. It sounded like metal on metal/some grinding, meets nails on a chalk board.

How hard is it to change the water pump?
Anything I should look out for?
Can I do something to check it?

Thanks,

Wes