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Mar 12, 2007 - 8:45 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #535734 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,067
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


I think the 1994 ST had a 19mm rear bar and the later years had an 18mm.

Dan

Mar 12, 2007 - 8:43 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #535731 · Replies: 40 · Views: 5,848
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


Put the smallest bolts you have in the front should be able to get about 2.5 degrees negative camber.
The rear is adjustable, though I have not messed with it, stock you should be able to get about 1 degree of negative camber.

I would also go with zero toe in the rear and about 1/8" total toe out in the front. (these are based on a stock class car)

And yes you will wear your tires at an angle.

Dan



Forgot something else.

The old hot stock autocross set-up used to be running GT struts in the front and Convertible struts in the rear. Possibly a lower cost alternative then adjustables.

Dan

Dec 28, 2006 - 10:17 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #513751 · Replies: 40 · Views: 5,848
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
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Back in the day the stripped ST coupes were the autocross cars to have. They were actually faster then the GT's. The ST's are lighter, have little to know wheel spin issues (at least my R-compound experience) and have more low end torque then the GT's. I believe that the GT's also fall off of their powerband on the 1 -2 shift.

When the back end of your car rotates be sure to keep your foot in the throttle, to pull it out. I run mine with the back quite loose, either by stiffening the rebound on the shocks, ie tap brake car rotates, or by running 205 tires in the rear.

I currently live in the Milwaukee area, where Jeff Cashmore resides, multiple time national champ, who stills has one of the celicas he used to autocross. For stock Jeff tried all sorts of different front bars and came back to stock bar as being the best.

Locally you may make one into a competitve STS car, but nationally I do not think it will happen. The car even though quite light will always be at a weight disadvantage, and is down on power even compared to the lower powered STS cars (wait a minute they are all low powered!!). The suspension can only be lowered a so much or the geometry will be out of whack and mess up the handling.

For any of them get the full negative camber in the front, and you should be able to yank about 1 degree in the rear. I run with about 1/8" toe out in the front and 0 toe in the rear. A good alingment is the best bang for the buck.

I really like they car, just whish they would have moved it to H-stock like they had proposed.

Dan

Jun 18, 2006 - 3:28 PM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #446009 · Replies: 26 · Views: 19,419
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


What diameter is the front GT sway bar?

Thanks,
Dan

Jun 8, 2006 - 10:08 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #442755 · Replies: 10 · Views: 2,345
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


Thats what I get for typing and watch my daughter at the same time +32mm

Jun 8, 2006 - 9:27 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #442738 · Replies: 10 · Views: 2,345
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


Thanks for the link to the table, and no I did not mean my statement to be insulting, sorry if it was taken that way. Yes rim width is a limiting factor, but by no means do people always stay within the recommended guidelines on the chart. It is also possible to purchase any rim width that you want, within reason, for a giving tire diameter. IE get a tire size that meets your needs and then go buy a rim to match, not other way around. There are lots of old VW guys running 13"X10" rims (not for sure what it would be like to drive on a square). Reguardless it has to clear the strut on the inside, not rub the wheel well up top or hit the wheel well as it sticks out the side. (though it has been interesting seeing the sawz all technique to make bigger tires fit)

Rim would be 16X7.5 my issue is that I do not see any real low profile tires set up to autocross or track day on, either falken RT615 or Kuhmo MX, or Hancook 712 (think I got the model number right). Even the hoosiers at this size start to get big in diameter. The tire sizes I see all put me at the same size as what is on my 02 Minivan about 26.6" in diameter compared to about 23" diameter. Just looking at a tape measure and the wheel wells I think that the best on a 16" rim would be a 215/45R16 Falken. This would put me at about the same size diameter as my 205/55R14 Hoosiers. I have also run the 225/50R14 BFG R1s and did not have a clearance issue. This should be similair diameter and a little bit wider then the 215's.

After I just babbled away for a whole 2 paragraphs I guess the real question I should have asked is anyone running a 215/45R16 with about 1" of suspension drop and are they having any problems?

Thanks,
Dan Kimber

Jun 7, 2006 - 9:34 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #442358 · Replies: 10 · Views: 2,345
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
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No I do not believe that I do, at the moment I have some 225 tires crammed on 6" wide rims.

But they would be 7.5"

Dan

Jun 7, 2006 - 9:16 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #442334 · Replies: 10 · Views: 2,345
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


On a 16" rim, what is the widest tire anyone has went with out rolling the fender lip or other modifications? 215/45 ? 225/50?

Thanks,
Dan

Jun 6, 2006 - 10:08 PM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #441917 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1,099
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


Looking for either for sale. If you have one you want to get rid off please let me know.

Thanks,
Dan Kimber

Jun 6, 2006 - 10:05 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #441914 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,266
DanKimber

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Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


They get pulled off with a slide hammer.

However you should not have to take them off to replace the studs. I did not when I did a couple of mine.

Should be able to knock the old stud out the back with a hammer and then pull the new one in from the back. I think there are pictures of this in almost every sort of repair manual.

Dan Kimber

Jun 5, 2006 - 9:27 PM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #441444 · Replies: 155 · Views: 35,818
DanKimber

Enthusiast

Joined Jun 3, '06
From Glasgow, VA
Currently Offline


By chance can someone that has ST sway bars post the bar diameter front and rear? And compare the lever arms on them to the stock bars?

Thanks,
Dan Kimber


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