6G Celicas Forums

Can someone provide me a picture of where the ABS sensor is supposed to connect within the steering knuckle? The person who previously worked on the car left the sensor tied up off to the side.

Thanks,
Brandon

Odd from my understanding the EVAP was supposed alleviate some of that pressure thus when opening the cap, there isn’t as much of a hiss. Read stories of gas tanks imploding due to too much pressure. Still doesn’t explain my unburnt fuel smell from the hood area. I’ve checked the fuel filter for leaks and the fuel line. Nothing. Also car chugs through gas like no ones business. I put $10 in @$3.19/gal put it a little above a quarter tank. Drove 8 miles one way and back and the damn thing is barely above empty. I reckon these cars don’t get the best mileage, however, I should at the very least be getting 19-20/gal city and a little better highway. Not to mention I drove the entire trip on the highway.

I noticed when I drive my car for a while and shut it off that the charcoal canister begins to hiss and my car has a strong smell of unburnt fuel. Any culprits? Also, I'm not sure if this is REALLY a problem, however, when removing my gas cap to refuel, there seems to be a huge amount of pressure build up.

Thanks,
brandon6gc

That piece was mounted to my intake manifold on he left side if you're looking at the car. It's broke. One of the nipples have broke off. I just want all the EGR components squared away because it's gotta be some cause of why I'm having rough idle/poor acceleration.

I have 2 friend where their cars don't even have this piece at all. However, they have a 96 and 97. Where my canister control solenoid has a hose running to it on the intake manifold, there's is blocked off with a stud or bolt of some sort. I'm sure me being OBD 1/older definitely has something to do with it.

On the left side of my engine block facing from the outside on the intake manifold, there is a solenoid mounted there. I searched for it on Google and I cant figure out whether or not it's the genuine part my car. It's called a TOYOTA CANISTER PURGE VACUUM CONTROL SOLENOID VSV part number 90910-13004. I'm looking for a replacement VSV and all of them that I look up look way different from the one I have. Basically what I'm asking is if it's the genuine part for my car and if the ones I've been searching are the correct ones.

This is the part that I had:
TOYOTA CANISTER CONTROL SOLENOID VSV

This is the part I found that is supposed to replace it?:
REPLACE EGR VACUUM SOLENOID

I've been trying to troubleshoot the reason why my car has had poor idle and has terrible acceleration and I can't find out why. I'm desperate at this point. I've swapped another engine in and have had the same issues.

Can anyone point me to a manifold/cat combo? I recently got my exhaust done with the rear car removed. I don’t want to put an open header on in fears of having a trashy sound and I’m content with the way it sounds right now. That being said, I believe my front cat is shot. Car is hesitating at 4K and EGR > EGR modulator line keeps popping off under heavy load.

Thanks guys. I think I'm gonna go with the header and thermal wrap it. I know it doesn't add a performance boost or barely noticeable if that but for the aesthetic I guess. Found a Magnaflow High Flow Catalytic Converter for my '94 for $137. I'm sure that will resolve the problem.

Besides that, I'm probably better off just replacing them. I'm a bit of replace-everything-with-new-parts freak that way I won't have to worry about it. 24 years probably hasn't done the cats well.



Yeah, I think I'll try the header and keep it as sort of a test pipe. Either clean the old one or replace it down the line in time for next year's renewal.

The best way for me to hear this sound is when I pull into my driveway which has a wall on one side and the sound resonates. The best way I can describe it is a pressure cooker like sound. I tried pinpointing it, however, I was only able to make a generalization of where the sound was coming from. Sound comes from the alternator/timing area. Only heard during idle.

Youtube

Thanks. I'm probably asking obvious questions. I appreciate the patience.

"Nevada uses On-Board Diagnostics (OBDII) Testing for 1996 and newer vehicles. The operator will connect an analyzer to the OBD computer in your vehicle. Data from your vehicle will indicate whether its emissions systems are operating properly and within emissions limits.

Older vehicles are tested with a Two-Speed Idle Test. The operator will test your vehicle once at idle speed, then test it again with the engine running at approximately 2500 rpm. Older diesel vehicles are tested on a dynamometer."

Welp. I'm assuming they do the tail pipe emissions test since they check at idle and at 2.5k testing for pollutants.

Say I do the pre-cat delete and do a header. I won't pass emissions, correct?

I was skeptical about that and what sort of confirmed it for me was the fact that when I swapped the engine, it sill did it. What I really wanna do is get everything going redone from the headers all the way back. However, I’m not really sold on an exhaust. Don’t want anything raspy and garbage. Rather throaty (or as much as you can get from a 4cyl). I appreciate you confirming it. As far as the car cleaning process goes... from what I’ve seen its a soaking process in a bucket to breaks down carbon.

I’m gonna go with not well maintained. The car was purchased with about 294K the only real selling point was the body quality for me.

I’ve noticed that my car has been “lagging” to reach high RPMs. Once 4K rolls around, it’s like power just diess out. However, I’ve been experimenting and forcing my car to 5, 6K (slowly, like a steady climb) and sometimes I’m noticing that the line that links the EGR valve to the EGR modulator (the one with the filter) keeps popping off like it’s under pressure when reaching higher RPMs. When it pops off, I can tell because I can hear a hissing noise when accelerating and sort of a “throbbing noise” at idle.

Is this a bad EGR valve? I’ve done the test with the hand vacuum pump connected to it to see if I could kill the engine and it took quite a bit to kill it. It just bogged and ran erratically until I kept pumping it and it eventually died. Haven’t bothered to remove it and see if carbon was caked in it.

Another thing to note is that the car runs a million times better when that hose pops off. Car doesn’t struggle in higher RPMs and runs beautifully. (I’m sure it’s not the brightest idea to run with it off, kind of hard to pull off on the freeway and reconnect it) I had another engine in this car that suffered from the same issue. Completely different EGR valve and all. Still did it. Where do I start...?

Just extra info in case needed:
1994 Celica GT 5SFE manual trans

I know they have to be pressed in I was just looking for a source where they aren't crazy expensive.

I wanna try to stay with the 5x100 pattern I have currently. The issue I'm having is I'm browsing through bearings locally and I'm noticing the bearings slip over the top of the shaft for the wheel hub when normally, they are supposed to be pressed in. This leads me to believe that A. the wheel hub's shaft is ground down from wear (which I doubt) or B. the bearings I'm getting locally are not the correct bearings.

Anyone know where I can get a decently priced wheel hub for the front? Mine has developed these grooves midway through and I'm not really sure if it's a deal breaker.

Suggestions welcomed.

Thanks,
Brandon

So I found out the issue with the fluctuating engine temps at higher RPMs. There is a connector that is broke/not seated properly on the water outlet. The connector is for the engine coolant temperature switch. The center piece that goes into the female part of the actual sensor is floating around inside of the outer part that clips onto the sensor. After adjusting it, I drove a bit and noticed that the temp on the gauge weren't fluctuating anymore.

I suppose the whole time the radiator, hoses, etc... wasn't the issue. I guess it doesn't hurt to have a new rad and hoses though. Should've paid for attention to the sensors.

Anyhow, this leads me to the next point. Would any of you have leads on where I can get the connector end so I may rewire it and have a proper seating clip?


Thanks again,
Brandon.

Also another question. When it comes to thermostat and rad cap, will an OE standard replacement suffice or should I go for OEM?

No turbo. Would love to get a hold of a Beams later down the road but most certainly not now with school. I suggested the Megan one just for better cooling. Couldn't hurt it right? I'll probably look into an OE grade one then.

The only reason the rad was even considered being salvaged was the fact that when I got into my accident, the car was quite a bit lower to the ground and I wrecked into the back of a van with a bash bar on the back so most damage was on the driver headlight area/hood. So I didn’t exactly hit head on.

Probably should have went the smart route and just purchased a new one. Didn’t think a lack of pressure would cause overflow + the fact I didn’t know what to diagnose it.

I needed a temp fix for the time being as I was going to school but most definitely going to invest in a new rad and hoses while I’m at it. I’m interested in the one Box sent however it’s the incorrect thumbnail or preview photo. Do either you suggest the Megan aluminum rad if you’ve heard of it?

Oh thank you so much!!! In the picture, however, it doesn't appear to be as wide or am I just crazy...?

Alright so my last and final option now is to replace the radiator and the hoses. During the accident, the radiator warped a tad and I bent it back seeing perhaps maybe I could salvage it. So I'm assuming that the radiator being cracked from old age like Box said can cause the overflow to flow coolant out the side? Someone else who has helped me with the car "patched" the leaks that it did have apparently and it seemed to work. I don't have any active coolant drips at idle nor when the car is off. I don't see any leakage from the radiator. I've tested the thermostat (doesn't stick, opens and closes), I changed the radiator cap, I've tried removing the air pockets from the system.

I had the hood up also and my dad noticed that pressure seemed to have been being released from somewhere near the cap. I don't understand how that could be because the cap was just replaced.

I pulled the dipstick out to check for milky oil and looked at the underside of the oil cap to see if milky build up was there. Drained the coolant a few times after driving it. Coolant isn't milky. Nothing of the sort.

I notice when driving it harder or on the freeway, I shut the car off and you can hear slight boiling under the hood. It goes away rather quickly.

So my options right now are to replace the radiator and hoses as a whole and clean slate.

Or accept the fact it could be a head gasket issue.

Can a leak somewhere cause this boiling in the overflow and spillage or can only a head gasket do that?

Thoughts and suggestions? I'm new to this all so I hope you can guys can bare with me so I can come to a solution.

I replaced the radiator cap completely. The car hasn't reached above halfway on the gauge. However, I do notice when I'm driving the car a bit harder per say make the gauge drop significantly. It will reach what seems operating temp and then go down. Not as bad as before. But still.

Okay. I have a question. I drove the car once again. This time, more drops started coming from the driver side of the car. I popped the hood and I noticed that there was coolant on the underside of my hood, on my battery, and in the surrounding area. This is completely normal...?