6G Celicas Forums

Rev matching puts less strain on the tranny, thats why its easier to downshift with it.

try rev matching and shifting into first, should go in pretty easy

in the second video it sounds like you get a little combustion with the ether spray but with no fuel the car wont run. as best i can recall, spark is unaffected by the NATS system. the only way to program keys is to take the car to the dealer, its actually the vehicle that records the key info. but before you go getting the vehicle towed or whatever, check the security light, you know the one that blinks on most cars when the alarm is active, if it stays on solid with the key in the on position, then the key is not registered to the vehicle. as for the horn and such, i saw you replaced the engine room harness. where did you get the donor section? most harnesses are pretty specific to vehicles with different options, so a ER harness for a tech package vehicle will be different, and may have different pin outs at the big junction connectors, etc. the harness part numbers should be on a white section taped to the harness on the drivers side near the brake master cylinder. maybe also check the fuse block by the battery, pretty sure both fuses are near each other in that box.

the reason the fans stay on is because the IPDM (white computer behind the battery) is running in failsafe. the most common reason for failsafe mode is that the IPDM cannot see another computer (ECM, TCM, ABS, etc.) over the commincation network. Also you can check the IPDM pins for corrosion, if it was exposed to rain for any period of time this may also cause various problems since none of those connectors are insulated. As for the no start, when the key is in the on position does the red security light stay on solid? if so there is either an error in the antitheft device (NATS) or the ECM/BCM has lost key programming. Only the dealer can program keys. The NATS system employs fuel cut for antitheft, so if you have no fuel id start there.

it took me like 20 times of having someone rapidly pump the clutch pedal an hold it. then open and close the bleeder to get the system fully bled

they are pretty much the same for m/t

did you pull out the radiator and clean it? clogged radiators are a very common cause of overheating in traffic, but ok on the highway, assuming the fans operate ok. gets especially worse when the a/c is on.

radiator fins are probably clogged with debris. remove the radiator and spray the fins with a garden hose

the sad part is alot of mechanics do take advantage of people in a way very similar to this. now, is that really the customer's fault, or the mechanic

minor front end collision caused the air bags to pop. looking to buy:

4 post steering wheel airbag module
Passenger airbag module
Airbag control unit
Passenger window glass

Also need ST205 Heat exchanger

1. if the axle isnt clicking when you turn, the boot can be replaced. it is a complicated process since you have to disassemble the axle. the boot kit runs about $15, but the extra labor involved might not be worth it. most people just replace the axle since its fairly cheap.

2. worn shocks/struts will not cause the axle boot to tear. time and turning the steering wheel will. if the car doesnt feel bouncy and you dont hear all kinds of noise, your struts are probably ok. bounce the car at each corner. when you let go, if the car settles fairly quickly, the struts are ok. also you can check the cup area where the spring sits, if there is oily residue that means the strut is leaking and needs replacement.

3. unless the rotors are really rusty, or the guy busted out a rotor micrometer and measured the rotors, they can be resurfaced. even so, brembo oem replacement rotors are very cheap and good quality.

4. unless you got oil pouring out and have to constantly maintain it, i woudlent worry about fixing any leaks. chances are more than just the valve cover is leaking, and it will end up costing you more once they tear into it.

smell the ecu, see if its burnt up

its actually the opposite. vacuum is the absence of pressure. the lack of air and pressure in the combustion chamber, during the intake stroke, creates a pressure gradiant that allows atmospheric pressure to force air into the intake system. what you want is the least restrictive intake possible. this will allow the natural air pressure to push the max volume of air into the intake. making more power isnt so much about air speed as it is about the density of the air you have to burn with the proper amount of fuel.

you can just tap the seals into the knuckle with a plastic hammer. the outer one has to be installed before you press the hub into the bearing. if you dont put the seals in, the bearing will probably fail again.

the steering wheel should be centered even if they only did a front wheel alignment. when you do a front wheel alignement, the mechanic centers the steering wheel in the car and adjusts the front toe to match the rear toe, whether the rear toe is out of spec or not. the steering wheel should be centered. if your have them do the rear alignemnt, they will have to do the front over again.

but from what year, i just looked up the 95 celica 7AFE engine control BGB wiring diagram at celicatech and there is no short pin shown. the ecm may be different, shorting a circuit grounded or controled by the ecm could cause damage to it...

http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb...ewd/circuit.htm pg 92

very poor acceleration could be caused by a jumped tooth on the t-belt. you would notice very poor accel on the low end that seemed to be better when the revs got up higher. other things that could cause this, off the top of my head, kinked exhaust or badly clogged intake.

the temp probe is there to tell the ecm if/when the egr is operating properly. when the egr activates the probe temperature will go up, when the egr is not activated the probe temperature will go down. you really cant fool it with a resistor. im not sure if an obd1 ecm will check if the probe temp is wrong at a certain time, but an obd2 ecm definately will. if you have the probe connected properly, ie no short or open, but it is just hanging out in the engine bay, id be willing to bet it is monitored and will set the MIL if it doesnt see the correct resistance/temp at the right time.

the tranny wasnt in neutral, something is wrong with the shift mechanism or inside the tranny. difficulty shifting when the car is off, is indicative of a trans/shift linkage problem, not the clutch. i dont know what the rb trans looks like, but if there is a plate where the shifter bolts into, id remove it and inspect the shift mechanism first.

1 auto axles should work. i have auto axles from a 94GT in a 96 s54. for the clutch setup, you need 3sgte flywheel and pressure plate and a GT clutch, or a hybrid clutch kit made by spec or clutchmasters. if you go the hybrid route id recommend getting an OEM throw out bearing, seems alot beefier. you shouldent need a driver side mount, the one that came with my clip worked fine. i ended up buying an s54 mount only to find out that the A/T, M/T, and st205 mounts all bolt up.

2 It probably not a good idea to swap if you dont have alternate transportation. anything could delay the swap, like waiting for parts, or if you have any post swap problems.

If you get an st205 only about 9-10 wires need to be spliced in, that is, if you cut a hole in the firewall to run the harness. if you have SRS you will need to run an additional wire from the cabin to the engine room fuse block. if you dont cut a hole in the firewall, more complicated wiring is involed and it should probably be sent out.

3 my a/c worked with no problems post swap. no wiring changes were necessary. keep in mind i have a 94, would be best to check the wiring diagrams to be sure for your car.

4 for an st205. custom exhaust 2.5in or 3in depending on HP goals, walbro fuel pump, all fluids, any seals/gaskets you need if you want to do a reseal. water and oil pumps if you want (i didnt). fuel, oil, air filters. plan on new FR & RR motor mounts if the clip and yours are crappy. manual swap parts, tranny, shift cables, master/slave cylinders, clutch lines and hose, clutch pedal and brake pedal, shift boot and bezel, shifter (if not with clip), shift knob. boost guage would be nice. plugs, cap, rotor, wires (OEM). all i can think of atm.

5 you cant reasonably make it street legal, no EGR, bottom line.

6 if you do the swap, there is no need to wire anything for the conversion since the ECU you get will be for a M/T

i thought you worked for a toyota dealer? cant you just hook up the scanner and check out all the sensor readings?

Payment Sent for curren tails

It could be a couple things:
1. there is still air in the system
2. the mixture is too dilute, causing the pump to cavitate and generate bubbles
3. straight battery voltage may be a little high, causing the pump to spin too fast and cavitate like #2 (i dont know if the ecu controls pump speed or not when hooked up correctly)

Id recommend trying 50/50 or throwing a voltage regulator in the wiring to adjust its speed. My W2A setup (stock st205) with 50/50 stays fairly level and doesnt froth up like that.

looks like the bolt that screws into the top of the fuel filter

check your battery terminals for corrosion, any crusties on the terminals can act like a load and absorb power under high load.