6G Celicas Forums

I have a 95 Celica GT Convertible in Twin Cities, MN I'm considering selling. I don't have any photos handy but I will make some available if there is any interest based on my honest physical description. It's going to need a lot of work but this would be a great project car. Please PM me if you're interested.

The car has a lot of body issues but the engine and transmission are sound:

- Rear driver's side quarter panel and rear bumper damage from a previous accident, paint is scratched in a lot of places and losing clear coat, but body is otherwise very sound with no rust except a little on the quarter panel with the accident damage, where the paint chipped off.
- Both rear quarter windows need repair. The white plastic guide wheels are worn and/or broken. Window regulators work fine.
- Needs CV axle on driver's side, it's clicking bad but the car is 100% drivable at the moment.
- 175,000 miles
- Engine pan leaks some oil but does not burn oil. Starts reliably. Idles and drives smoothly.
- Clutch replaced about 35,000 miles ago. Should give you another 100,000 miles easy.
- Driver's side seat has a tear at the outer seam from the top to the bottom of the seat.
- Color of the paint is a purple/blue.
- Convertible top has a small (dime-sized) wear hole at each rear top corner but the top does not leak at all.
- Cracked windshield
- 2 8" MTX subwoofers in the doors, 700W LA Audio amp, Kenwood CD player.

I don't really want to part this car out. I'm either going to sell it outright or trade it in. Please make an initial offer if interested and I will post pics when I can.

Mitch,

I'm having issues with my rear passenger side window as well. Those windows are a PITA, aren't they? Please let me know if you found a good source for these. Thanks!

I didn't think mine could be the pin. I took the entire motor and gearbox out as one unit and the output gear on the box still ran under a little manual tension. I took the motor off the box, and sure enough, the pin was snapped. When I put it back together, I figured out what to listen for. Even if the "broken" motor is still strong enough to assist the stop, if you hear the motor continue to run after the top hits the stop, you have a broken pin.

I'm lucky I didn't break something else on the top! I grabbed the manual handle to assist the top going up all summer. No sign of damage to the rails. Whew!

I'm also convinced it's a rolled pin. My local hardware store called it a "tension pin," if you're having trouble finding one.

For sale or trade:

- Toyota OEM front end mask for a 95 Celica GT or equivalent. Brand new, in box, never used. Perfect condition.
- Set of 4 snow tires for a 95 Celica GT or equivalent. Brand new, still in plastic bags. Factory tire size (I think it's P205 75R15?)

Make offer or may trade for a good set of seat covers or if you have something else to trade please ask. Will ship the bra but not the tires. Too much hassle. Located in South St. Paul, Minnesota.

A closer look at the master clutch clyinder shows that the fluid level was a little low. I flushed the line and it was BLACK! Performance has improved and I'll watch the fluid level. Thanks everyone for the help!

OK, so what other things can cause this problem? A worn busing or anything? Or if I'm not sure should I just replace the master (since I've never replaced it before) and then the slave (since it was a rebuilt)?

Well, I looked at the cylinder itself and saw no evidence of leakage. If it was a leak, why would it get worse and better again? I haven't tried bleeding it yet, but that's one thing I'll try tonight.

95 GT convertible (5SFE), 141k miles, 5 spd manual, all factory except SRI. Car runs like a top except for a code 71 (CA emissions, EGR failure.) Not that I think it's related.

I had the clutch replaced last year, about 10k miles ago. Now my clutch has been requiring more and more travel. Pedal height and freeplay are set correctly according to factory specs, but now I have to pull the top carpet back and put the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to change gears. As soon as I take it any distance off the floor, the car starts to roll. Sometimes after it warms up it doesn't want to shift into gear (esp. into 1st) or grinds a bit (esp. into 4th.)

Yesterday I thought I was going to be stranded but after forcing it into gear and getting it home I left it sitting for an hour or two and have had no problems since (other than still needing to put the pedal to the floor.) I'm guessing something is wearing out. Any ideas? I replaced the slave cylinder last year when I had the clutch replaced as well.

Thank you in advance for your input!

--Rick

I completely forgot that I was threadjacking. I came in to offer a thought on the subject, then ask a question, then lost track of how the conversation started. Sorry! OK well lots of good info, I really am going to try and see how it works, and if it works, I'll tell you how, and if it doesn't, I'll tell you how far I went before I gave up.

I don't think sealing the door is a good idea, because when water gets in it needs a way to get out. Plus wouldn't that make the door vibration much worse? Finally, I'm not even sure sealing the door is possible because of the window seal at the top. What would you do there?

What do you think about putting baffles in to seal the sub instead of trying to seal the door? Should I use soft foam or harder plastic? I am for sure going to try my hardest to make this work before I just give up and put 3-ways in the door. I just don't want to scrap what seems to me like a good idea that just has a lot of challenges.

I really think it does suit me, because I really liked it when I installed one sub in one door, just need to tighten it up a bit and do the other side once I get it figured out. Thanks for your input!

See, here's the problem, it's not a coupe, it's a convertible. I already have barely enough room in the trunk to pack a couple suitcases when I travel. So installing in the trunk was out for me. Good news is, I just found out that these actually are free-air subs, and I just didn't realize it. See link below. So the thwack from the speaker must be that it's not installed tight enough in the door. That opening seems like it's not quite 8", so maybe I'll just have to ream it out a bit or fab some kind of slightly enlarged foam gasket to go between the speaker and opening.

http://www.bizrate.com/carsubwoofers/mtx-t...+subwoofer.html

As for the frequency range problem, The tweets on the doorjamb and the upgraded 2-way speakers in the back sound pretty good, right now I have no amp connected to the front sub at the moment and it sounds OK the way it is, minus the extra bass punch. I have a Profile HA700M amp and with the crossover set to midrange it puts through some decent vocals as well.

I was thinking for good measure of installing a center speaker I saw that goes where the sunglass pocket is under the deck. like this one:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PB60yiDkftT/c...mp;i=500SBS05DC

I'm not really worried about passing emissions, we don't have testing here anymore. I just don't want to have problems with the engine if I mix the parts, like would it run rough or get really bad gas mileage or something? Like when I looked it up I noticed that there are even separate California spark plug wires! Are they really that different? I just figure it's easier to get federal parts around here, y'know?

I put Dynamat on my outer door skin and it didn't seem to help too much. I have a friend who says stuffing carpet pad into the bottom of the door works well. I'm going to try it myself here in a couple of weeks, although I'm wondering if there will be a problem with it retaining moisture?

Also, I did not buy free air subs. They sort of thwack when they hit hard. Anybody know if installing a baffle would help the speakers perform? Trying not to spend too much money here.

Being in Minnesota I've never had to deal with Cali. emissions before. Is there a list of what's different so I don't have to worry if, say, some random little engine part I get from the junkyard has to be Cali? advTHANKSance.

95 GT Conv. 5SFE Cali.

If he changes his mind please PM me. Would like air intake hose, gauge trim, possibly some other misc. stuff. It's impossible to find a Celica at the junkyard around here!

Thanks to 6gcelikas for this solution, our PM conversation follows.

I have a 95 GT Convertible. I'm getting water in the rear driver's side cavity, where the rear quarter window rolls down into. It'll get so full it'll slosh around. Then it won't leak out, I have to stick a wet dry vac down there to suck it all out. Then it seems like if it gets too full it starts leaking onto the rear driver side floor, I had over an inch of water back there after a particularly bad storm. Killed a brand new $200 amp. But the passenger side is fine. Where should I look for this leak? Superficially everything looks fine. Thanks in advance for your help!

OK, I can deal with that. Maybe I'll just take the starter out and assess the contacts before I decide. Thanks!

Well I wanted to get a kit with all new contacts, plunger, brush, etc. If you buy all those parts at the dealership it's the price of a used starter at the junkyard. And a "cheap" rebuilt starter from an auto parts store is still $100. For that price I'd rather keep hitting it with the hammer! And the rebuilt's not even a Denso starter. But if I can't find the kit I want maybe I'll try your advice and just replace the one contact. Thank you!

So I'm not in a big rush to fix my starter, I'm looking to get by cheaply. It's had intermittent problems for over a year, and I've been getting by just trying the key until it works, or failing that, tapping the starter with a ball peen hammer. Occasionally I've been looking for a starter rebuild kit for this (95 GT 5SFE 5-MT Denso starter.) The dealer just wants too much for each part. Can anyone help me find a kit for cheap?

In case it's not related to your exhaust issue, I would check for vacuum or air leaks. Check the large hose from your air filter box to the intake. If there are any cracks at all, when the engine moves the cracks will open and it will suck in more air and lean out the mixture. Also check for vacuum leaks, esp. around the PCV valve and in any cracked rubber engine hoses. One way you can check for leaks is by using a length of 3/4" rubber tubing as a stethoscope. Failing that, I would check for intake gasket leaks. The trick here is to spray carb cleaner at the intake gasket and listen for a stumble.