6G Celicas Forums

This thread is awesome.

The coil was bad, it was within specs, however it had a hairline, very small crack that was near the high tension terminal, and was apparently jumping the gap to something else inseatd of firing a plug.

So $80 from napa and I have a running car again.



As for the conversion I have decided on water methenol injection instead of a intercooler, for the price of the extra piping, intercooler, and the small amount of extra lag it introduces, a water kit makes more sense, and seems like it will make the car easier to drive as well as allow more boost with less work.

They make aluminum flywheel kits with puck clutches.



How strong are the 7AFE rods in all reality, what about if you cryo treated them? Strong enough to take about 250WHP reliably? If so I would be all for it. However with the cost of aftermarket rods I can buy a crank and rods, the block will be in for machining, and so will the head, the extra to have the deck and head machined down is minimal, and the pistons can be switched for engines and sizes with no additional cost.


All I am truly loseing is .2 liters and that will be made up for with the extra boost hopefully. This isn't a set in stone project either, I have considered going with aftermarket rods, or having the rods hardened, but from all the research there is no comprelling reason to not do it.




And for trd94 I can't find a seperate crankshaft posistion sensor other than the one in the distributor housing, and it is within specs. I am still waiting to get the other new coil to check. If that isn't it I will have to see about checking my ECU.

The mains are the same diamater, and on the big pin forged crank everything else should line up.


I have found the dimentions on the rods, crank offset, and the wrist pin, but I now need to call the company who is making the pistons and see what the wrist pin to top of piston clearnace is, and what stock is, so I can get a deck height idea. I want to know how where the piston will be in relation to the top of the block. If need be I can have the block machined, and the head, to close the gap, but if I can do the same with a set of higher compression pistons and still end up at the compression ratio I want I will go the route.



But for now I have to get it running again. Saturday after work it would not start. I have checked the plugs for fouling as it is burning some oil form valve leakage, nothing there. Checked to be sure the cambelt is turning, it is. Checked the ignition system as per a haynes manual on specs, and the coil came up about twice the resistance 1.5 ohm on the primary side that the book shows (.4-.7). but a new one from Napa measures the same. With two different meters.


I have tried a bit of gas in the intake, and some brake cleaner that I can start other engines off. Nada. The pickup coils are in spec. The plug wires are new. So I have no idea.....

Found a crank and set of rods, but need to check specs on the 7AFE crank, or search here.


Out of a 87' MR2 $200.00 from Arizona. Howevr it is called the "small pin" engine, but there is no direct difference between the rods-crank on supercharged engines to aspirated.

When I say cheap I mean the engine kit with interchangeable pistons is around $875.00 for pistons, rings, full gasket set, main, and rod bearings, oil pump overhaul kit, and a few other odds and ends.


Turbo Kit was $1700ish without a intercooler, I may not run one if I can get the charge air cooled with a water injection kit. Dunno what that will do to charge temps though, need to do more research.

The block work is really good on price as we use the company alot $15.00 per hole to bore and put on a basic finish, $100.00 to balance everyting. We have used the company that does the thermal coatings to do spray wear coatings, TCC and Titaniumnitride, but the ceramic coatings can be had for $45 per piston, and $30 per exhaust valve top and some stem. I work as a parts manager for a Ag company, so alot of the fill in parts can be had for cost, and tools as well as a large shop.


Has anyone here used 4GZE parts in a 7AFE yet? The specs seem to line out minus some possible grinding in the block for counterweight clearance. From what I have found on the 4GZE they were designed to take quite a bit of punisment, and the only inharent differences are the longer connecting rod, and a slightly longer stroke.

Anyone have any sugestions. My plan is as follows for my poor little 7AFE it is blowing oil out everwhere and the valve seals are leaking.



Get some 4GZE rods, and crank (used). A set of oversize pistons, have this block bored to the 82.5mm with 9.1:1 comp pistons. Turbo kit it, they have garret kits for the 7AFE that fit corrolas, and a ebay intercooler. SAFC2 port the head and intake some. 2" cat back exhaust, aftermarket cat.



I have found cheap engine kits, I know a company that can do thermal coatings, for valves and the pistons. A machine shop around here will do my boring and piston-crank-rod balancing. A toyota dealer has the tool to do the valve shimming, and will rent it out. And a friend has a exhaust shop, and can either do crush bends or will have mandrell bent pieces made, and weld them up, stainless.



So far I have come up with about $3,400.00 ish for everything minus the crank, and rods. But I have no idea where to get them, or if they truly will work. Talking with another gear head on the west coast he used the same setup to get better rods for cheaper than aftermarket, and a better TDC duration for close timing under boost.


Any help is very much appriciated.

I run a 600watt RMS amp in my Olds with two Pioneer 12" subs. On the low power RCA outputs and running 50% gain with the head unit doing low pass filter and no preamp on the channels I can make your heart skip beats when I crank it, but I custom built my enclosure.


I use 4GA wire both leads going to the battery posts. I could hardly rattle the car untill i got my grounding problem fixed (I was young and dumb and grounded it on the body). It ended up burning out a alternator and killing a gauge before I finally just ran another wire and fixed it right.

Run some good quality wire to the battery posts, and make sure to use good ends, as that will cause problems too if half assed. If you can get a capacitor to help even out the load spikes, and make sure to mount everything securely.


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9sOvaqRYB5P/c...h=amp+capacitor


Go to Radio Shack or a hardware store or Napa for the ends to connect to the amp and battery, And get some heatshrink tubing to really secure the ends and keep them from degrading over time.

Nice work Dr.

He moved back to his grandfathers farm in Maryland two years ago, he was a tech at our shop here. Great mechanic, forgot more than I will ever know.


But from what I remember him telling me he just used three 25HP needles and the solenoid from ether injection kits. As the boost came up each one would cut out, he had it wired into a standalone fuel management system, dunno which one though.



It really took the edge off the lag and respool times, I only got to ride in it once. He usually kept it at his place in the garage.


I will see if I still have his phone number.

A friend built a custom system, it shoots nitrous until it hits full boost. He had to wire three solenoids and is a electrical genius.


It is on a Probe though. And he won't let anyone drive it. Bastard.

Because it doesn't have the torque production to support it.





The same reason my 406 small block chevy falls on its face below 2500RPM, no torque. Get it into the 4K range and let it go and there is no stop untill you let off or the tires blow. Much above 6K and you are again screwed.



But redlining these cars is more for the "go fast" sound than anything. The Torque produced above 3K pulls better than the fall off of over 5500.

That does suck.



I always try to check my cars over when they are on the lift for any mechanical faults. It has worked so far, but some things like this are just unavoidable. It just really sucks when it happens.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating




The detergents are more for the FUEL system than for the intake system. And the fuel is not fully evaporated or intermixed by the time it reaches the back side of the intake valve, partially allowing a 'wash' of the valve. As a fact you can check with engine manufacturers and the direction of swirl on test engine scan be determined by what side of the bore is worn more, the un evaporated fuel hits the side and washes the oil off partially causing slightly accelerated wear.



But to be honest, unless you NEED the extra octane, it is a waste to use higher octane fuel.


But it does seem to me as well that shell has a better formulation than other brands, based on personal experiance, and many trips to see my parents 1,600 miles away. Both in fuel mileage and in performance "feel".

In Boulder a few years back it was 1,200 a month for a small apartment.



Then out here on the plains it was $450.00 a month for a thousand square foot place with a fireplace and all utilitys paid minus electricity.



But my house is 3,000 square feet and I pay 800ish for the mortgage. And unfortunately $300 a month for utilitys until we get the insulation and windows finished.

I have used fleetguard filters for over 100K on my olds and it still has great oil pressure and runs clean.



I just started with fleetguard on the celi.



Part Information

Fleetguard part information for LF3614 is listed below.

Part: LF3614
Manufacturer: FLEETGUARD
Part Type: Lube, Spin-On

ADBV: Yes
BPV Setting: 65.5 kPa (9.5 PSI)
Largest OD: 68.33 mm (2.69 in)
Overall Height: 73.66 mm (2.9 in)
Thread Size: 3/4-16 UNS-2B

Additional Information:
TOYOTA 9091503001


But upgraded to a larger filter as it doesn't have the bypass valve and flows more oil at the same micron filtration.

No problems in 6K miles.


Part: LF655
Manufacturer: FLEETGUARD
Part Type: Lube, Spin-On

ADBV: Yes
Overall Height: 116.08 mm (4.57 in)
Overall Height: 116.08 mm (4.57 in)
Largest OD: 77.47 mm (3.05 in)
Largest OD: 77.47 mm (3.05 in)
Thread Size: 3/4-16 UNF-2B
Thread Size: 3/4-16 UNF-2B

Additional Information:
FORD D0RY6731A TOYOTA 1560133020
Is Metal Version of
LF42504



This is what I am using. UNS and UNF threads are the same, minus one radius at the bottom of the thread pitch that UNS has, but will not matter.

E-85 will do the trick also.



It has a higher octane rating or knock resistance due to the fact that it takes MORE to do the same job that gasoline would. But with more you also get a better cooling effect and the detonation issue is less.





But yar. Alot of guys I know running water injection systems either go with washer fluid or buy off brand gas line antifreeze and mix it with water. They guys who mix seem to have the better result, and those that change over to Ethenol injection doing a marginal amount better, but it has a bit higher expense.


A+ on doing it.

I could be up for it.


Hopefully have a turbo setup by then. Blowing all my money on our house right now though.

A guy at arbys reached out and pet the car.

Does the exhaust smell sickly sweet?

It is about getting the "feel" of any car or truck.


Pirelli tires and some 5 spoke lightweight BBS rims turned the already somehat stiff suspention on my olds to a ground hugging mofo after I learned what it could and couldn't handle.

A leaf blower and some nawwwzz and I will have a true sleeper.

Manifold and turbo still for sale?

I have done it not only to my Olds with a 3.1 197K miles, but to the celica too 124K.




I also work in parts, not car parts, some things a bit bigger than a tiny 1.8L.

It isn't due to contaminants. It is the smaller synthetic molecule.





Most contaminants aren't due so much from the oil itself but from the EGR and ring leakage.




And finally, one of the best engine cleaners is a bottle of natural based ATF about 500 miles before a oil change. The higher amounts detergents and zinc clean up the engine and help with sealing the pores in the cast iron liners.