6G Celicas Forums

mine does the same thing, but only when i down-shift into 3rd. it's a quick grinding sound that sounds unhealthy. i changed my gear oil last summer, and that did a little, but the only real solution i found so far was double clutching.

http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/mods.htm

can i get anybody to second this?

my 94 st is using about a quart of oil every 3,000 miles or so. i have noticed my engine does seem to be leaking oil from under the valve cover, but no puddles under the car or anything. the exhaust does not smoke.

where is my oil going? does anybody have any advice on how to fix this? or should i just live with it because it's an older engine?

i'm currently using Shell 5w-30. think i should switch to a heavier weight oil? i'm hesitant about switching to synthetic because i was told it would only leak more because it is thinnner.

i saw a thread earlier about puting automatic transmission fluid through the oil for a short period of time, and that's supposed to stop leaking. can somebody explain what that is supposed to do or how it works?

thanks,

dan

94 st, 7AFE
200,000+ miles
35 mpg average

i went to meineke the other day and they quoted me $600 for a new cat-back exhaust. i thought that was outragous because i could buy a perfomance exhaust and do it myself for cheaper than that.

i was looking on ebay for a new exhaust, nothing special. i just need something cheap to pass inspection this month. here's what i found.
Ebay link

anybody know the quality of these parts? is everything included to replace from the cat-back?

thanks,

dan

before i start, i just want to apologize for my lack of knowledge when it comes to the names of these exhaust parts.

i have the 94 st, and my exhaust has a hole in it. the hole is at the flange right in front of the muffler where the muffler connects to the other bent pipe. the connection just rusted away on both sides of the connection.

my question is, am i going to have to buy a whole new cat-back exhaust because of this problem? or can i simply get a muffler shop to weld a piece of pipe in place of this connection? it seems rather rediculous to me that i'd have to buy a whole new exhaust because of this rusted out connection.

i also want to install one of those aftermarket mufflers. now i see that the stock muffler has a bent pipe that comes out of the front of it, but the aftermarket mufflers you see do not have that pipe. how do i go about installing one of those mufflers? is there alot of cutting or welding involved?

thanks for your input,

dan

anybody try to mount speakers in the rear deck? (the plastic shelf over the cargo area in the hatchback)

if so, how did it work out? any rattling? pictures?

i brought mine to meineke and they did it for a fee. They WILL come out.

i shorted out my power locks

i have the 94 st with the manual locks that move together when you push one down. i was inside the door when i realized a couple of the wires coming out of the actuator were bare and touched together. i heard something click, like a blown fuse, and the power locks stopped working.

i checked my fuse boxes, and didn't find anything.

the locks were messing up for a while before that. when pushed it down, it would go down, then immediatly pop back up. it would do this on it's own for 2 or three times, then stop.

if anybody knows what is wrong with this, please help me. i posted during the summer with no response. i was thinking about getting remote entry, and i need this to work.

thank you for your help.

will 6x8 speakers fit in the rear 6.5" mounts?

i was just wondering if it was possible, with some modification of course, to fit 6"x9"s for the back speakers in my AT200. are there speaker mounts available? right now i have rockford power speakers 150w 75rms in the front doors, and they bump pretty good. but in the rear i have crappy pioneers that are also 150 w, but only 30 rms.

also, what would be louder (aka, bump harder) 6.5" round speakers or 6"x9"s of the same power specifications? i really like the sound of my rockfords so i'm thinking of getting those for the rear.

no sub cause i think that's a little overkill.

i took my door panel off, only to see that there was 2 bare spots on the blue and white wires coming from my power door lock actuator. they accidentally touched, and i heard something click, just like the sound of a blown fuse. now my power door locks don't work. i check my fuse boxes and couldn't find anything.

i have the locks where you manually press one down, and they both go together.

if anybody knows how to fix this i would appreciate it alot.

this was the topic of one of my previous posts, and thanks to the people who tried to help me out then, but i still don't know how to get the manual window crank off so i can take my door panels off. i know there's a C-clip type of thing i need to remove, but don't know where it is or how to remove it.

what i'm really looking for are some pictures of the inside of the door so i can get a better idea of how to do this.

i have the locks that you push one door's lock down and they both go down. they were screwing up, and i was told to spray WD40 in the actuators, but i don't know how to get the plugs out, probably because i can't get my door panel off all the way.

if anybody could provide me with some pictures of this actuator thing and the inside of the door that would be great.

i was just wondering how those $30 indiglo gauges that you see on ebay get their light. do they light up on their own or do they get their light from the 194 bulbs in the back?

i'm wondering this because i just put Polarg's into my gauges, and they're alright, but not spectacular. i think there's a little too much hype about them on this site. how would my gauges look if i kept the Polarg's and put the indiglo gauges in too?

would i have to take my bulbs out? or do they light up on their own?

no i don't have cruise control, i have a manual transmission.

by "stick" i mean that it takes a little more force to make the pedal move down at first. then it releases and the engine revs up really high because after the first initial push, it's normal. it's kinda annoying when you're trying to shift gears and people are around because it looks as though i'm still learning to drive manual.

it doesn't stick when the car is off. it only sticks when it is running, that's why i don't think that it's an issue with the cable itself

my gas pedal seems to stick, and takes a little more force to push it down initially. i thought it might be the spring on the throttle body that was sticking, but i oiled that with some WD40, and it didn't work. i don't think it is the throttle cable itself because this doesn't happen when the car is off, only when it is running.

does anybody have any idea why this is happening?

the exact same thing happened in my car. you want to check the fuse box under the hood. i think it's a fuse size 10 or 20.

no i tried pushing the panel in and i couldn't see anything like a wire clip. maybe i didn't push hard enough. just trying to get some more feedback with a new post.

in the winter time i average about 34 mpg

right now i'm getting about 36 mpg

37 mpg was my best


all 87 octane, one advantage of having a slow, underpowered 1.8 st



you guys should try a fuel/oil additive called MYSTERY OIL. i add about 1/2 a quart to my oil whenever changed, and maybe a 1/4 quart or more to my gas whenever i fill up. it cleans, reconditions, and keeps your engine running great.

how do you get the manual window crank off the door so you can take the door panel off? if anybody could give me some details that would be great.

the reason i want to take the panel off:

i'm trying to fix a problem with my power door locks (refer to my previous post). i was told to take the plugs out of the actuator and spray wd40 into them, but how do you get the plug out?

is the actuator the black piston type of thing near the top of the door on the inside? if anybody has pics of this it would help me out a lot.

thanks

what about the manual window handle? how do i get that off?

you spray WD40 right into the connector plugs? would that screw up the connection? anyway, thanks for the help man. that will be my next project after my gauges.

any recommendations for gauge light bulbs?