6G Celicas Forums

It is the same crank pulley that is used on the 4A-FE.
I have a couple of used ones.
E-mail me at Bikeman982@hotmail.com, if interested.

Update:
The car has been sold to a man looking for something more gas efficient.
He has two trucks that get 12-15 MPG and needed something better.
His wife took a wrong turn and ended up going down my street.
She saw my car with a "For Sale" sign on it in front of my house and told her husband.
He came by and then arranged a full diagnostic for the car at a local shop.
He paid $37.50 for the diagnostic and they came up with a stripped transmission drain plug (I used the wrong sized allen wrench - 3/8 instead of 10MM). It was also leaking a little.
The right rear brake cyclinder was also leaking a little (they had to pull back the rubber to find a few drops outside the seal).
They also recommended a tune-up - points, wires and cap, rotor ( I had already put in new plugs - of course any car would be better with new ignition parts).
They found nothing else wrong with the car.
I think that is a fairly good testimony as to my ability to repair a car with a seized engine and have it running again.
I had changed the engine, radiator, battery, and put in several used parts from a junkyard.
I sold the car for $3500.00, which was far more than what I paid when I purchased the car from e-Bay.

I am looking for another 7th generation car needing repair, that I can get cheap, to fix.
I still have some left-over extra parts (including a 1.8L 7A-FE engine and A245L transmission).
Anyone have a need for 7th generation Corolla parts or have one they want to sell that needs work?

Was everything from the same year?
Did the donor car have all the same connections?

Here is an update.
Car would not start and did not have spark at the plugs. I used a T/S tree supplied by Bitter and found a malfunctioning, corroded relay (EFI-F HTR). I replaced the relay and car started right up and purrred like a kitten.
I drove the car around and it seems like the tranny is slipping.
I added some Slick 50 Automatic Transmission Treatment and that seems to have fixed the slipping problem.
The car is up for sale and my neighbor is very interested in it.

End result - seized engine has been changed, original transmission and wiring harness/ECM used and car is operational.

I am having exactly the same problem. My next step is to change the ECM.

I bought a new battery and the car cranked fine - just would not start.
More troubleshooting required - spark/fuel/timing checks.
Getting closer to actually running again!

Everything but the drive shafts have been installed.
The car will not start - does not crank - tried different battery - no crank.
I had the solenoid/starter tested - it is good.
Checked all fuses - look good.
Anyone familiar with the starting system??

I have swapped out my engine and returned everything to it's original position, but the car won't start. I thought it was the battery and changed it, but still no crank. I started checking fuses and relay, but all seem good. I had the starter checked out by AutoZone and it was fine. Anyone know the troubleshooting procedures for the start/ignition system??

UPDATE: Today I installed the starter, the charcoal cannister, all the vaccuum and fuel lines and some of the coolant lines. I also put in the airfilter box and cover as well as the battery. I put the distributor in but did not tighten it down as the timing has to be set. Next I need new transmission lines (I hope to get from the junkyard) and I need one of the fittings for the transmission. After that will be the radiator and the connecting lines. All that will be left is the ECM and the interior lower dash panels and then I need to add all the fluids, spark plugs, cap and rotor, and final adjustments. I am hoping it will crank right over when I try to start it. More to follow.

Tomorrow I start connecting everything back up and installing everything that was removed for the engine change.
The hard part will be saved for last - re-installing both half shafts.
The starter is a little difficult to get installed as well. I can put on the A/C pump and the alternator pretty easily now. I have had lots of practice.
I can also put the main engine electrical wiring harness and connect everything to that (as well as the ECM/ECU thru the firewall).
The gear shifter is tricky since it uses a different mounting bracket on the old engine. I also have to replace some of the fluid lines that I bent switching to the other transmission. I may need to go back to a junkyard to get other ones.
I will keep you posted on the progress.

I had trouble (once again) when matching the transmission up with the engine. I ended up changing the flywheel and using a different torque converter. Even now it seems like the bolts don't go in easily and I may have stripped one of them. I am pretty sure I cross-threaded one of the bolts that holds the flywheel to the torque converter. One problem is that I never identified which bolts went where and as a result, I have various bolts that I don't know their exact place. I may have to go back to the junkyard, find a similar transmission, then get the bolts and label them. That would work (I hope).

I have abandoned the larger engine/tranny and pulled it out of the car.
I have pulled a used 1.6L 4A-FE engine from a local junkyard and will be putting that in.
I hope that will solve all my compatability problems, by returning everything to stock.

Transmissions are not the same.
The main problem now is that the cars wiring does not connect to the ECM/ECU. That connects to the wiring harness and that connects to the tranny and engine.
Other than a complete rewire, I see no solution to doing a successful swap. Back to original stock engine/tranny.

After careful examination of the cars wiring and also the connections to both 4A-FE and 7A-FE ECM/ECU's, I have come to the conclusion that I need to abandon the project.
Althought it is physically and mechanically possible to swap a 1.6L 4A-FE engine and A131L transmission with a 1.8 L 7A-FE engine and A245E transmission, it is electrically unfeasible (within my capabilities) to convert.
My next step I believe will be to locate a working 1.6L 4A-FE engine and purchase it for replacing the 7A-FE engine that I have installed in the car.
I will re-use the old transmission (which is still good) and also the old wiring harness and ECM/ECU (will match up with no complications).
Thank you all for the helpful advice and encouragements.
Unfortunately the operation was a failure and my only recourse is to return it (as much as possible) to stock condition.
At this point my son will settle for any operating vehicle and this decision seems to lead to that desired outcome.

I tried using the old transmission (from the 1.6L 4A-FE engine) and it did not fit. The problem was too much gap between engine and tranny so the bolts did not connect. The torque converter seemed to be too thick, but they were the same for both tranny's. There was no flex plate difference - that I could tell.
The transmissions are different and have different housings and transaxles. Definitely not a match for me, so I changed it to a newer tranny. Now engine and tranny match up and are installed in the car (I did change the mount that held the tranny to the body - (new part from AutoZone).
The problem now is the car's wiring is different and the connector does not plug into the ECM.
The wiring harness has been changed and seems to be suitable (no connection for crankshaft position sensor, but I won't use it?).
I did not want to change to manual transmission because I am not prepared to do all the modifications required.
I thought a straight swap from automatic to automatic would be easier than automatic to standard.
I did not realize that there was such a big difference between electrical systems on the 1994 and 1995.
I thought they were the same with the exception of individual car options (that may still be the case - I am seeking answers to the differences).

Which leads me back to why I need to get the 7A-FE ECM wired in. It would seem compatible with the engine and transmission, but needs whatever the wiring (and connector) is inside the body of the car.

The wires I am referring to connect to the Park/Neutral switch on the tranny.
The old tranny had a smaller connector and different switch.
I tried to use the old tranny from the car, but it was incompatible with the 1.8L 7A-FE engine, therefore I changed transmissions.
I think the 1.6L 4A-FE engine uses the A131L tranny and the 1.8L 7A-FE engine uses the A245E tranny. They are not interchangeable (both are automatic).

What about the problem with the connector and transmission wires - totally different on the 7A-FE? - hence the reason I changed the wiring harness.

What about something similar - I swapped the engine/tranny and wiring harness - can I use the old 1.6L 4A-FE ECM/ECU, since it plugs right in?
What about the wires that are not on the 12 pin connector from the car that are used on the 22 pin on the 7A-FE ECM/ECU?
What about the engines crankcase position sensor - just ignore it?
Someone has told me that the 1.6L 4A-FE engine uses a hydraulic shift transmission, while the 1.8L 7A-FE engine uses a computer controlled electronic shift transmission - is this true? What does that mean as far as the swap? Don't both use the ECM/ECU to electrically control shifting??

Nice pictures!

The engine/tranny and wiring harness - ECM/ECU came off a 1995 and the car is a 1994. The reason I changed the harness was due to the transmission having a different park/neutral connector on it and the harness for the 4A-FE was different. There may have been other connectors that were different as well. Since the majority of changed parts were 7A-FE from a 1995 I was trying to keep it all 1995 compatible.
The ECM/ECU has three connectors on it and on the 4A-FE there is a 12 Pin connector whereas on the 7A-FE there is a 22 Pin connector.
As Bitter has said - I may have a harness that is for an OBD2 car and not from a OBD1, but the harness is the same and it is the cars connection to the ECM/ECU that appears to be different.
I don't know if the donor car is still at the junkyard, but I can check the connector on that car. It was a 1995. I took both the ECM/ECU and the wiring harness from the same car - but the cars internal wires must be different. I will have to check it out.

Upon further examination I have discovered that the engine wiring harness does connect to the ECU/ECM, however the connector that comes from under the dash (part of the cars internal wiring) has the wrong connector and does not fit the ECM/ECU. It is similar to what goes into the ECM/ECU for the 4A-FE. I don't know what all the wires go to, or how to change the connector/wiring to fit the 7A-FE ECM/ECU.

The stock harness does not have the correct connections for the engine or transmission either.
It also did not have a connector for the engine's crankshaft position sensor.
It would fit the ECM/ECU, but that is supposed to be different for 1.8L 7A-FE.
The distributor part number is also different for the 7A-FE engine.
I have a distributor and that does not seem to be a problem, except maybe that it needs to be set for correct timing.
Do you know the stock number for the ECM/ECU for CA 7A-FE specs?? - should be 89661- something.
It is 89661 -02140 for the 1.6L 4A-FE engine.

I have an engine, transmission, wiring harness, and ECU/ECM all from different sources. They don't seem to be as compatible as I originally thought.
The engine has a crankcase position sensor connection that has no corresponding connection on the wiring harness. Do I need it?
The wiring harness does not connect to the ECM/ECU - is there an adapter harness?
CA specs seem different and I am on my fourth harness without having one that has every connection for the engine/tranny combo and the ECM/ECU.
The car is not starting and I think I need another harness?

What do the numbers on the little metal plate stuck to the tranny mean?