6G Celicas Forums

Thanks. The cable is new and i've cleaned the throttle body a couple of times, but maybe there was a lot of junk built up...

So I have this weird issue, where occasionally, I start the car, let it warm up and get ready to drive and the accelerator pedal won't push down. I'm shifted into gear, but the pedal won't de-press. It's like it's stuck or something is under it (obviously it isn't). Only way it seems to rectify (and I'm not sure it helps), is if I open the engine and manually open the throttle body while in neutral a couple of times. Then if I keep playing with the pedal it finally gives presses and works fine.

Anyone else ever experience this? I have no idea what it could be. I also have a new accelerator cable. I feel like it happens a lot, if before I last turned off the car, I reversed (like into a parking a spot) and then shut off the car.

I also thought maybe the throttle body was getting stuck, like a vapor lock or something? Like pressure built up in the throttle body or something. It's weird. It happened yesterday so I got under the dash and looked at the pedal and where the cable connects... Nothing obstructing or anything like that. I have no idea...

I am looking to buy euro style clear turn signals for my 1997 GT. I have the clear side markers, but am looking for the clear turn signals.

Good thought. I did just have the shocks and struts replaced 2-3 months ago and the noise was present before that, so I don't think that is it. I called the garage yesterday, and they said there was excessive play in the LR wheel, so they replaced the bearing. They didn't check any of the others.

I am taking it back around Thanksgiving to have them look over the other suspension and steering components to see what, if any are excessively worn and need replaced. I will have them check the motor mounts and other wheel bearings at that time too. RockAuto sure must be loving my business...

Thanks for the reply. I noticed maybe 3 days after getting it back, but again. I have to be going around 55-60 and making an aggressive type turn right. I am not sure what brand they used. I think I am going to drive it until it gets colder and then when I get ready to sit it for the winter, i'll have them check the LF wheel bearing and also the bushings and steering components to make sure it isn't a ball joint or bushing in the control arm, etc. See if they come up with anything.

I am hoping to get some ideas for what could be causing this, but first a little backstory.

I took my 1997 GT convertible to my mechanic to have some stuff replaced and to check the driver side rear wheel bearing, because when I turned right going 40mph or more I would hear and feel (a little) a vibration-type sound and it felt like it was coming from the rear. It would happen only when turning right, when the weight of the vehicle was shifting left and I was at 40mph or higher.

So my mechanic replaced the rear-wheel bearing and since I have had it back, it seemed fixed. Then this morning, I was going around 60mph turning right around a curve and I heard the noise again, but not quite as pronounced. But again, it's only when turning right and the weight of the vehicle shifts to the left, going 60ish or so now.

Any ideas on what this could be? The front left wheel bearing? Or should I recommend they look at the bushings in the suspension/steering? Originally, they said they couldn't really re-produce the noise, but then eventually came to the conclusion it was the left rear wheel bearing. I drive the vehicle every week, so I know how to "produce it", so to speak.

Any help would be great, I just don't want to be driving and something break and I have a big problem or accident. Thanks!

Are the pedals adjustable by any chance? I'm going to look for some new floor mats that have a cutout for the gas pedal for more range of motion, but that won't help the distance between the gas and brake pedals..

Thanks. Problem is, my pedal hits floor mat regularly. I think I’m going to get new mats so there is a cutout where the gas pedal is. Heel to toe is a stretch and I have size 12 shoe. It’s like 2” lower than brake pedal measuring at center of pedals. I feel like an inch higher would be ideal...

How low does the accelerator pedal sit compared to your brake and clutch? On my 97GT the brake and clutch are basically level, but the gas pedal sits lower (closer to the floor). Is that normal? I feel like it wasn’t this low before but since having the accelerator cable replaced, I feel like it’s lower. I haven’t had the car in a few months so I don’t know if it’s just my mind or what.

Does anyone know what the wood board behind the rear seats is for? I had the top replaced but the upholster said the top won’t fully go down because of this board. He doesn’t understand why it’s there. It’s what cracked my rear window the first time. I figured it was part of the frame for the rear seats?

I purchased the after-market cable from Pioneer Automotive for the 95. On the Toyota parts website there is some year overlap for the part # for the 93-95 and the part # for the 96-99. So it seems at one time the 93-95 cable for the 2.2L GT could be used for 96-99 2.2L GT. *fingers crossed* it was just a part # upgrade and Pioneer will work. I'll report back with my findings, after my mechanic installs it.

If this works, this will hopefully fix my sticky/hanging accelerator pedal and high idle. I've had the throttle body cleaned several times, replaced both O2 sensors, radiator fan switch, and coolant temp. sensor. Mechanic says when warmed up it idles fine, but after it starts to be driven, the idle bounces from 1500 to 1k (sometimes below) and the throttle sticks, so shifting is tough, because there is still throttle action.

The thinking is the accelerator cable at this point is causing the sticky pedal and the weird idle. All other parts have been cleaned and lubricated, so we'll see.

Does anyone know the difference between the 93-95 2.2L accelerator cable and the 96-99? I've found online some places that says the same cable fits from 93-99, but other sites say it doesn't and indeed, the Toyota part #s are different. The Toyota 96-99 part is "discontinued", as well as the 93-95, but there is a 93-95 aftermarket from Pioneer Automotive that is widely available. Of course, mine is a 97 lol. Any ideas if the Pioneer cable would work? Or could be made to work? I can get one for $37 from RockAuto. I wonder if it has something to do with the lengths of the cable and whatnot...

I think I need a new throttle cable. I’ve searched the google and it’s listed as discontinued :-( Any generic or universal ones that will work? What do I do if I can’t find? Any help would be great. Thanks!

Thanks

I’m replacing because the car has 255k miles and from what I can tell they have never been replaced. I also don’t think I’m getting the mpg I should be. I ordered the special socket/tool. Can’t get under the car right now as it’s parked next to a curb in the road by my house and I can’t drive it to move it since the intake of ant hooked up.

Is the top one the "upstream" O2 sensor and the lower one the "downstream" O2 sensor? If not, what is the lower sensor? Are these the only 2 O2 sensors?

I have some questions on the O2 sensor locations in my 1997 GT 2.2L. I ordered 2 new oxygen sensors, the "upstream" and "downstream" (thank you Rock Auto). I googled online and looked for videos, but couldn't find any info on this generation (as far as the sensor locations and how to replace).

I found a picture on the forums here. Is the top one the "upstream" and the lower one the "downstream"? Most of what I see online for other cars or generations of celica say the "downstream" is in the exhaust and under the car. This is why I am confused... Parts websites only list 2 O2 sensors for this car and they look like what is in the picture. I am struggling to find out how to post the picture, but it can be found in this link on this forum - http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...sor+replacement


Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Thanks. It got better for awhile and came back. I got a can of chain lube and sprayed it into the opening of the cable. I also sprayed the wire "spring" that activates the throttle body. I sprayed the gas pedal spring itself as well and into the hole where the cable runs from the pedal.

I tried to thoroughly clean the throttle body and even used a long soft bristle brush to push into the throttle body to clean. I then wrapped an old cloth shirt around the brush and cleaned out all sorts of black crap. I sprayed TB cleaner down into the opening for the IACV yesterday and used an ear swab to clean down into the hole as far as I could. More black crap was on the ear swab. I have a feeling I need a new cable, a new IACV, or both lol. I didn't run it yesterday though, because I am waiting on a new TB coupler for my CAI.

Thanks!. Mine turn on when I push forward but do NOT come on when pushed back. I have a list of general maintenance and some leak checks for my mechanic in a week or 2. I will have them check. The fog lights got fixed as it was a ground issue, thinking this or a switch might be the case. I freaking love this car, as it's fun to drive, but with 255k miles, I am slightly worried about it becoming a money pit It does run pretty good though. I have done some general tune-up stuff and the engine is running much better.

Thanks!!!

Thanks. I hit it with throttle body cleaner and it seems better. The cable has some slack though. But now I noticed the air I take tube is torn. It must be the original lol

97 GT Convertible. 2.2L engine.

The accelerator pedal tends to stick when coming to a stop and shifting out of gear into neutral. The engine will idle around 2Krpm and if I blip the gas pedal with my foot it still stop and goes down below 1kRPM and is basically silent. It doesn't always do this, but has been doing it more lately.

Any ideas? I was gonna hit the throttlebody with the CHC throttlebody cleaner to see if it is all gunked up. Any other ideas? Thanks!

It's a 97 convertible that I believe had the foglights already installed. I have the foglight switch on the headlight switch like OEM. I checked fuse and when I turn the foglight switch, I hear the "click", which sounds like the relay. I replaced both bulbs.

I also noticed a small button that has the top broken on it under my steering wheel to the left. Looks like small bulb is in a white plastic oval. I can push it in and out. It's in the location of the "second switch" you provided me in the link above. Not sure what it does though.

Any advice on where to start? I check fuse and tried different fuse. No go. When I turn the switch on the stalk I hear a click, it n lights. I changed both bulbs, no go. I don’t know what else to do to get these fog lights to work. I could use them too! Any suggestions?!?

Do the "personal lights"/map lights on the GT convertible only lights up when you push the switch forward? When I pull the switch back, they go off, but do NOT turn on when the door is open. I thought they were supposed to turn on when the door is open. Anyone have any issues like this?

It's a vert so there is no "dome" light per say and its pretty damn dark at night lol