6G Celicas Forums

Make an offer

Since the engine runs right now, I'd rather not part the engine yet.
Price dropped to $1000 as a last attempt to sell as clean titled project car.

Where at in MD?

PM'd

bump - still for sale

edit: If there is no interest in the full car after this weekend, I'm going to start parting her out. Just start posting what you're looking for and I'll pop it off and get you the price shipped to your zip so that you don't pay more than you have to. If you need any additional pics of something, just let me know.

Asking $400 for the set, prefer local pick up.
(Click to enlarge)

Sorry for the delay in the reply, I live in St. Leonard (located in Southern MD).

155k

I was given this car as payment for a job. This is sorta a feeler to see whether to sell this car as a whole or to eBay/part it out. The car has 155,742 on the odo.

The Good:
Title is clear (VIN=JT2ST07F1S0021106 if you want to check it out)
Engine starts and runs strong
Trans seems to run fine (see below)
Power everything works (gauges, sunroof, windows, locks, mirror...)
A/C blows colder than my DD
Aftermarket stereo
3/4 Wheels&Tires hold air
Really wouldn't take much to make it drivable again.

The Bad:
Car won't drive until the passenger axle, strut, and inner tie rod are replaced (just tries to spin non-existent axle)
The electric fans don't kick on so it will overheat as is
Airbags deployed
Missing Passenger mirror
Front fenders and bumper missing
Hood bent
Windshield and Passenger rear panel removed
Carpet needs to be replaced
Misc dents around car

Price dropped to $1000

(Click Images for Full Size)

Thanks for all the help, but I finally figured it out!
It seems when I tightened the nut to secure the strut cartridge in the canister it wasn't quite tight enough. Both sides eventually worked themselves loose and the strut was bumping up and down. So I tightened the crap out of them and the sound is completely gone!

See anything visibly wrong?



Let me know if you want any additional up-close shots of anything.

Be sure to grease the top hat where it touches the coil.

I don't care about the ride at all, it's just that the car sounds like it's sending the struts through my engine bay on every bump. I'm gonna take them off tomorrow and post pictures, I'm thinking it may be missing bump stops because I've noticed my coils have worn paint where they've been touching.

Wow! Thanks for all of the replies!
I bought the struts from jdmwerks13 on eBay, no idea how I'd get KYB to honor any warranty. And I don't intentionally go onto rough roads, but they present themselves on occasion.
When I replaced the struts/springs, I only replaced those and reused everything that I could. It was awhile ago so my memory is foggy on bump stops and mounts. But they started making noise within the drive home from installing them, and it has only gotten worst with time. Lemons would be good to hear if you know how to get KYB to honor any warranty...

So I installed my Teins and GR-2s in January See Here
Anyway, the bumping I hear has gotten much worst. I was trying to ignore it, but it got to the point I was afraid something was going to come through the floor. Had a garage look at it and they said my struts were bad... I just installed these things! Anybody have this happen? I got the GR-2s that everybody else here runs, but the garage said if I ran stock struts and lowering springs the strut could bottom out and fail.

Finally got a chance to go home and try greasing the top hat and adding the washers. It did make a very noticeable difference, but I still hear the popping sometimes. If I hit bumps while turning especially. Any other clues?

That's what I thought you were talking about, hmm looks like I'll be washer shopping. Think I could take off that center nut without taking the strut back out of the car? Will be a few weeks till I can get it home and put it on the lift.

Thanks for the reply you two!

Celicam8: I don't recall a washer to swap over, I'd think a 1/4" washer would stand out to me. I'll def have to grab one and put it in next time I get it on a lift.

Harold_Faswaker: I greased the bearings but didn't where the spring meets the top... so is it supposed to twist in there? I thought it was twisting because the bearing wasn't greased enough so it was binding. I'll have to grease it next time it gets on the lift.

I'm back at college now, any immediate dangers in not messing with it for a couple weeks?

Hi there, thanks for the reply.

I've taken apart the strut 3 or 4 times to check the grooves. I also drop it to pop it in just incase it's close but not in. The only odd thing with the groove I noticed is the top where the spring contacts the top plate. The plate is obviously angled to take the spring at a certain direction, but the groove looks like it is at the oposite side of the plate than it needs to be... if that makes any sense. It's a very rubber on rubber noise, I'd compare it with new tires turning on clean cement while the car is stationary. Is there anything other than those bearings that could possibly need lube?

Ok, so I finally made the plunge and picked up some KYB GR-2s and Tein S-techs since my rears went out. The installation was pretty smooth until I lowered the car. (I should add in I got strut cartridges for the front that just replaced the shock, the rears were full strut assemblies.) The car made very odd rubber-on-rubber sounding grinds and pops. I put it on the lift and watched the springs, they torqued with the top half rigid and the bottom half turning. I figured it must be the upper bearings so I put a healthy amount of axle grease on them and reassembled the struts. Then popping is much less now, but still noticeable going into and coming out of left turns. I know my driver front axle is bad, so I will be replacing that next; but I think the sound is strut related. Any ideas?

So this just started since it's gotten cold, so that may have something to do with it. When I slowly let off the clutch, I get a metal-on-metal noise until it catches. I get the same noise in first three gears by giving gas, then letting off (having it bounce back and forthe in the tranny play if that makes sense). The clutch is less than a year old, so that's why that's not my first geuss. Maybe wheel bearings or engine mounts from vibrations? Thanks for any input!

I had the same problem when I put in my short shifter. I think it has something to do with the metal spacers that replace the rubber ones, doesn't allow the assembly to give at all. Maybe try swapping just the spacers back?

Guess I'll go Teins and new shocks/struts then. Thanks for the help.

In spirit of doing this as cheaply as possible, anybody know anything about the Arospeed Coilovers?

edit: Only see the ones for 00-04 celis, would these work on the older celis?

I'd say 80-90%, they're near new. I did hit the turn pretty hard, but I'm sure it would have stuck on my old 16s. Could just be the extra bodyroll putting additional stress on the outside tires. I think lowering should fix it. Don't think I'll go for the rear sway bar though, be getting too expensive.