6G Celicas Forums

Well got another coil in the mail, same story. Also hooked a scan tool in today and found no trouble codes. Called the salvage yard with the part number this time and somehow they magically have a whole bucket of them now, but didn’t have any ones for my vehicle last time I called. 🙄 guess it pays to talk to a different cashier. Gonna pick on up tomorrow and see if a different igniter helps. 🤞🏻

So I found the igniter and measured the voltage going to the harness, (prong number - Leads(battery/prong) - voltage)
1- B+/P- - 7.8v
2- B+/P- - 7.5v
3- B-/P+ - 12.8v
4- B+/P- - 12.5v
5- B-/P+ - 12.8v
Can I get a link to that OBD-II diagram? I’ll replace the igniter if I have to, but I’m not sure if that’s the issue since the car ran before I did the overhaul and now I’m getting intermittent spark. I figured maybe a connector isn’t seated right and maybe that’s my issue but I did so much while everything was apart it’s hard to tell exactly what’s wrong 😅. I read that these are supposed to have 5v reference signals, is 7.5v high enough to cook the igniter you think?

Interesting. The one I have is non adjustable, year 96. I guess I’ll trace the green wire back and see what it connects to. Thanks!

Hey guys still trying to get the celica to start, and now I’m dealing with a no spark. Fuel and compression are okay now, and i get spark in cylinders 2&3, but 1&4 only gets spark maybe 1/10th of the time. I have the 4 pin style dizzy shown here.

I took a video and put it in slow mo, and sure enough the coil only sparks on cylinders 2&3

It seems like I’m missing half the signal, but I only have a single pickup inside the distributor, upon digging a bit deeper I noticed the condenser looked a bit melty:

Ordered a new one as well as an OEM rotor, since they’re cheap and the aftermarket ones are pretty disappointing. Am I wasting time on the condenser? Any idea what may cause the intermittent spark? I don’t see any kind of igniter, And I’ve tried a couple coils now.

That’s what I was thinking, that’s why I was looking to you guys for some help filling in some of the ones I don’t have, that way we have a searchable list of what’s included in the FGS9033 kit since there doesn’t seem to be anything on the contents already. I’ll reach out to dnj also and see if they can fill in any of the blanks too

Alright back for more help, I’m working through the gasket kit on my rebuild and need a hand identifying a few of these gaskets, looked everywhere and couldn’t find anything on these and want to make sure I get everything in. If you can help identify anything I’ll edit the post so it’s there for others later but here we go.

Also is there a difference between 10 and 11? Both seem to go on the plenum even though 10 looks like a better fit



1. Oil pump gasket
2. Front coolant outlet near exhaust manifold
3. Oil pickup tube gasket
4. Rear main carrier plate seal
5. Engine rear under MAF
6. Coolant inlet near power steering pump
7. Throttle body
8. Water pump
9. Oil pan Drain plug gasket?
10. Plenum gasket
11. Alternate plenum gasket
12. Rear main seal
13. Front main
14. Main camshaft seal
15.
16. Distributor o ring
17.
18.
19. injector seals
20. Exhaust manifold lower gasket
21.
22. Valve stem seals
23. spark plug gaskets inside valve cover

So I have a question for you guys. I got the head pulled off and got it prepped for the new head gasket but while I was carrying it over to the bench I tripped on a jumper cable and fell on my seat head landed in my lap safe and sound, but 6 of the valve buckets and shims fell out and onto the ground. I don’t have any gauges small enough to check the clearances, so what would be my best course of action to make sure I get the right bucket on the right valves? In addition, when looking at the underside of the head I found not one but two exhaust valves with a deep burnt edge (looks like someone took a nibble). I checked the seats and they’ll be perfect after they get lapped, seems like the oil burning made a protective layer around the seat and when the edge of the valve broke/burnt it didn’t cause any damage. Whew. Anyways, background out of the way, should I just order a full set of valves to be safe or can I get by buying a pair of dnj exhaust valves to replace them and be okay? Funds are getting a little low until I can start driving again, so I’d really like to spend as little money I can here after everything else I’ve bought to get it running, and the other exhaust valves look fine. I own all the tools I’ve needed so far, so getting in there later wouldn’t be the biggest deal in the world and I could potentially make it more worth with a copper head gasket at that time. Any insight would be appreciated!

Well after shearing two down steps I finally found a local 10mm 12 point in a 1/2” drive and got the head bolts out to finally get our first look at the head gasket And survey says...



Partial blowout somewhere, definitely faded but not so blown that there’d be zero compression in two cylinders... so I flipped the head over to look at the valve condition and...



Take a look at exhaust valves 2&4. Well that’s just great. I was hopping to be back on the road this weekend but now we have to order valves. Here’s a closer look at those burnt guys



Now for some good news. It looks like the piston oil ring is completely gunked on those two cylinders and the layer of burnt oil and carbon on the valve seats protected them from getting smashed. Cleaned this one up a bit to see if I was going to need a new head or now and it’s barely even nicked. At least now I’ll have plenty of time to get the clutch kit in, clr soak the rotors and calipers, fill in the gaskets, size the new rings and press the new pistons in.

Oh wow I don’t think I’ll be going that intense. The goal is just to help prevent that funk build up in the future. I posted some pictures of the before in my project thread, but they’re still in post purgatory. I’ll be sure to add the after when I’m done so they’ll all be up eventually.

Can I grind out the ridges on the plenum cover while I’m doing a polish or does the engine run better with the tumble effect? Not going to really touch anything near the injectors, I don’t want to mess anything up and the fuel keeps it pretty clean, but the plenum gets really dirty and I wanted to know if anyone has had any negatives from putting a nice mirror finish in there to help with buildup. I know I won’t expect much in hp gains, but I’m killing time until my rebuild kit gets here and I figured this would help with mpg if anything and let me take further advantage of the drop in filter until I can get the long ram intake through the driver side brights.

The thought of a 3s-gte in a rav4 made me chuckle a bit. Sounds like a blast of a little sleeper, but my grandma loved a 1st gen to pieces lol its hard for me to see one anymore without thinking of her behind the wheel.

also I'm still having some trouble getting my posts to show, how many posts do I have to make before they don't need to be approved anymore?

Intake disassembled today, really dirty and looked wet despite the engine only being run for a little bit. Going to give it a good clean before it gets put back on



Intake ports are actually really clean despite the state of the intake, exhaust ports in cylinder 1&2 slick with oil, 3&4 are still pretty dirty, going to clean the entire head while I’m waiting for the rebuild kit to get here as well as do some port matching and polishing on the upper intake and exhaust manifold. Both have some imperfections that I’d like to smooth out.


Timing belt seems to be in amazing condition and will be going in the gates box as a spare JIC I need it down the road.

Dropped the fluids, from what I can tell the oil is free of coolant, but the dipstick was reading high. Coolant definitely contaminated. Goal is to have the intake off today, head off before the 8th when I can get the cherry picker and stand over here. Going to do a bunch of interior work and get the tires replaced in the meantime

Alrighty boys its project time!
Spent the last 2 days pulling out the seats and giving it a deep vacuum, as well as dusting out all the cobwebs and draining the liquid out of the bottom of the hatch. I really thought they were capped off, but I was mistaken. Oh well. I messed around with the ignition system and replaced the spark plug wires and actually got her to start and idle, really rough but it's there. I did see the white smoke that my dad described and the oil level on the dipstick is HIGH. Going to drain all the fluids tomorrow and see if I can find evidence of coolant/oil exchange as cylinders 1&2 had really low compression with the gauge hooked up. 3&4 look fine so I'll be pulling the engine and installing a rebuild kit I just ordered off YOTAShop. While I was at it I ordered a Gates timing belt, water pump, and a basic AutoZone lifetime warranty clutch kit just to get these out of the way. Going to save the exterior wash until I can drive it down to the self serve wash, but I'll post some pictures of the cleaned out interior later.

Yeah lol the original spoiler pulled off when I was 14, my smart self pulled up on it to put some stuff in the hatch and it just so happened to be 40 below poor guy snapped in half and my dad pulled the other half and capped them from the inside because it was pulling to one side. learned my lesson quick and now that I’ve gotten a lot more into car culture I heckle myself on it all the time

Probably going to go with a rebuild for now then. C: I’m going to have around 4K as a budget for the build in October and that should get it running pretty well. C: I was looking and rebuild kits aren’t very expensive compared to what I’m used to, (was expecting 600-700) so I’m definitely going to start with suspension/tires/wheels after the motor isn’t spewing white exhaust. Now to do some fitment research

So not sure what happened to my first post, but it lacked pictures anyways...

How’s it going, new here, and I inherited a 96 Celica ST hatch from my parents. Basically there was a pop as my dad was driving it up a nearby hill, and it started spewing white smoke out the tail pipe. It then sat in their yard for what I can recall is about 13 years. That’s 13 years of Alaskan winters without moving. Needless to say this car is pretty rough. But, my parents were pretty easy to convince to get rid of the car for the low low cost of a tow dolly ��. Back in October I did a compression test and if I remember right there was two cylinders with 0 compression... now I’m considering doing a full rebuild or a swap, don’t know if I’m super keen on keeping the 7A when there’s so much more fun to be had with this car but stuck on if I should swap it, and if I do what I should swap with, or just rebuild and call it a day. I’m a delivery driver so gas mileage is somewhat of a concern here . What do you guys think? Mind the mess but whatever I decide to do I’m happy to have a new car to join a forum that’s not for another ford