6G Celicas Forums

Dont use Fensports they are well over priced on everything.

Give Chris a call here http://www.cheaptoyotaparts.co.uk/index.ph...mp;productId=19

A car is a car at the end of the day, unless it’s a convertible & then you would be a hairdresser (Most male hairdressers in the UK are Gay)

I found the Goodyear Eagle F1's were no where near as good as the Michellin pilot's.
The Pilot's also lasted a lot longer on track then the F1's.

Each to their own I suppose

I'm running 235/40/17.

My vote is with the Michellin pilot's or the Goodyear Eagle F1's

Ahhhh your a US/UK/NATO intelligence worker then, cool.

I'm Based at RAF Credenhill in Hereford.

You may still be able to claim the VAT back another way have a read here http://www.london-guides.co.uk/pages.php?id=e0701050

http://customs.hmrc.gov.uk/channelsPortalW...MCE_PROD_007779

Where are you based??

Michelin pilot sport on all corners, you cant go wrong.

Don’t you need a double piston DV/BOV for an engine running a MAF/AFM?
Something like a Bailey DV26 (with a Subaru spring) maybe?

With all due respect I think that a ST205 for $4000 will be a bag of 5h1t, it is more then likely to be a Kaizousha car or a complete bag of nails.
Realistically you are looking more $8000 for a good ST205 from Japan.

Yeap Chris is a top bloke, cheap as chips too.
Also worth mentioning that if something isn’t listed on the site he can get it for you, this guy has Jap contacts coming out of his ears.

Big +1 to that, I've done a dyno with the wires on & without them, all but 2 BHP @ the fly difference between the 2 of them
I've also got a "magic" box of tricks to go with the wires... does fu@k all, makes the car slower by adding weight if anything

It's a fu@kin rip off & they should be brought to court for miss advertising if anything!
These fu@kin main stream companies think we will buy any old sh1t they sell just because they put their name on it…
Fu@kin over priced wank product pushers! & HKS are the worst of them all!

Sorry if I have offended anyone & for that rant but it’s true!

Nah the Air Con can be kept, the rad for that will fit between the water rad & FMIC

Why would you not want to remove the C/C (Chargecooler) set-up??

If it is so you wont get the code 54 error then I can provide you with a fix for that (2 resistors need to be spliced into the loom)
If it is so that you can run the FMIC cooled air into the C/C blackbox to get extra cooling you could end up with the C/C blackbox warming the air as opposed to cooling it further

If you just want to keep the C/C blackbox for aesthetic reasons if you look at the piping in the first pic you can see that the piping takes up ¼ of the space the C/C box needs to be mounted.




If you look at the first pic you can see the trubo inlet housing points to the throttle body, if you keep this pointing this way to get the air to the FMIC you will need to pipe in a U bend (2 x 90deg bends) & go down via the alternator, not good for optimal air flow & too close to the down pipe IMHO.

Clocking the turbo means to clock (rotate) the inlet housing 180deg so it points down towards the road/rad, this then provides a much smoother & straighter path for the air flow.

Basically it is the same reason most ppl ditch the stock air filter to turbo inlet pipe & install a straight intake pipe, a much smoother & straighter path for the air.

Doooooooooooh sorry, yeah there are a few bits you might have to remove to make the job easier.

Crash bar.
Air box.
Battery.
Turbo heat shield.

The FMIC should fit in snug behind the crash bar but as i say it may be easier to remove the bar to install the FMIC & rip the C/C set-up out.

The crash bar i am on about is the long black bar that runs from between the high & low beam lights on both sides across the front of the car, you cant miss it when you remove the front bumper (Thinking about it the front bumber has push clips to hold it to the bar by the number plate mounting point, power steering cooler & gearbox cooler)... anyway you wont miss it when you get the nose off

As you look at the last pic it can go on the bottom right hand corner by the FMIC outlet so it can get an air feed from the hole in the bumper under the signal light or I know a few who have installed it by removing the middle under engine tray & connect it to the bottom of the X-member

Try & see if you get get it to fit between the FMIC & the rad first it might go back in, if not I would extend the oil lines a bit & go for the bottom right of the FMIC outlet

An FMIC of size 600mm (24”) x 300mm(12”) x 76mm(3”) with an End to End" Length of 800mm (32”) will go straight in easily after you remove the Charge cooler rad set-up. You may need to relocate the gearbox cooler tho, power steering cooler should fit fine between the FMIC & Rad.

Install tips would be:

Find a smooth piping route with as least bends as possible.
Clock the turbo.
Try to use hosing (Silicon hose) as pipe joiners as opposed to actual piping runs.
Make sure when using hoses that you have big enough rolled pipe ends so the clamps can hold the hoses tightly on the pipes.

No modification to front bumper needed, all that’s been done here is to remove the lower grill & down lines so the bumper can be filled with mesh & a few custom bling modifications

Engine pic, note turbo is still in the normal position & hasn’t been clocked yet.




Front bumper & FMIC measure up, note the vertical runs are being removed, not needed to fit the FMIC it’s being done for aesthetic reasons.



Good overview of the piping runs.


Pics are courtesy of Adam G.

The main difference between UK spec 4’s & JDM spec 4’s are that the Japs run 101/102 RON fuel as opposed to the 95/97 RON we run over here, the Jap cars are tuned to take advantage of this (Just means when I fill up a couple of bottles of octane booster go in with the fuel).

Then there are little differences like in the UK 205’s they have an oil sensor in the sump, JDM’s do not… the JDM seatbelts are limp as hell (Almost so bad you’d think they don’t work!!)… the JDM models are REALLY well looked after & have hardly seen a days worth of hard driving as opposed to most European models that have been thrashed to within an inch of their lives

Working from home but the office is in Dallas, will only be going to the office 1 or 2 times a month so I am told… we will see tis only 300K’s no more then 2.5 hours tops

The later part of what I said goes for all versions, I was talking about fuel starvation/leaning.
Granted an FCD on a GEN III is a complete no no, but the same goes for the other versions unless you have supporting mods, there was no mention of supporting mods when I posted.

Why I stand by FCD's being suicide is because on teh GEN II teh stock fuel maps only go to 12PSi, teh later ones including cs/rc are set to 17PSi, if you go above the set values teh injectors will be working at 100% duty (Fuel starvation/leaning, det, timing retarded, VSV kicks in blah, blah, blah) (How old are the injectors?? When was teh last time they were flow tested?? etc etc, all these elements add to teh soup so to speak)…
IIRC to determine if you have a 17PSi ECU it has a B in teh 2nd part of the part number.
If you have teh 17PSi version ECU you will then have to work out if the FCD is a raised limit version or teh version that just removes teh fuel cut all together… loose wire?? Limit set too low??
Reading about teh intercooker doesn’t sound healthy at all

Fitting an FCD is suicide, pure & simple.

The fuel cut is there for a reason, the reason is it stops the car leaning out, want to know what leaning out is… you probably just did it!!

Your fuel leaned out, the intake temps went sky high, EGT’s go through the roof, loadsa knock, ecu retards timing & brings in the VSV you feel a sudden slam & car runs like a 3 legged dog.

So many owners have killed their engines over here because of the FCD’s… no one uses them anymore

'sick' as in 1sick5 (165)
'crate' as in 1crate5 (185) bastardised to 1great5 (Only by 185 owners)
‘faff’ (205) 2nd one down on this list http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=faff or number 7 on the list

Cheers for the link GMan, will have a read & digest when I get a free second or two

As for location I will be moving to Kingwood (Houston), but working in Dallas.
Found a great website with all of the Track locations in Texas, so no doubt I will be doing most of them when they are open for track days (Texas World Speedway road course layouts look very good, so no doubt that will become my new home )

Not meaning to be negative here or anything but im just wondering what you are using to drive the 850 jectors?? On your list you haven’t mentioned anything.
The Blitz is the same as the OEM ECU, programmed for 550’s…
If that’s all your relying on then I would say the block, rings, CAT & O2 sensor would be shot, if not then suffering badly from bore wash or the effects of it, then there’s your fuel consumption, you might as well throw the money into a fire.

To all those looking to buy a faff the ownership costs are extreme to say the least:

Oil change every 3K miles (Something like Silkolene Pro R 15w-50, 5 Litres @ around $20 per litre)
Gearbox & diff oil every 9K miles (Something like Silkolene Silktran Syn 5, 7 litres @ around $22 per litre)
Plugs every 2nd or 3rd oil change $86
Cam belt kit is $445, change every 60,000 on the clock (Don’t forget every time the water pump, oil pump, intercooler pump goes you need to change the cam belt & tensioner)
Dizzy is $115
Rotor Arm for Dizzy is $25
Front brake discs are $372 a set
Rear brake discs are $372 a set
Front brake pads are $107 (2 corners = 4 x pads)
Rear brake pads are $80 (2 corners = 4 x pads)
Rear handbrake shoes are around $100 (2 corners = 4 x pads)
Tyres, yes the myth is true, if one tyre goes bald all 4 have to be replaced (Unless you go for the same make/model & type of tyre).
If your tyres last say 6K’s at 3K’s swap the rear tyres to the front to give them even wear & make them last longer, the faff is a true 50:50 split car not a 60:40 front bias!! If you swap just the front tyres or just the rear tyres you might get a confliction in the rolling radius which will eat your rear Diff for breakfast (See Diff price below)

That’s your general maintenance service prices…
Then you have the problematic parts that just die & die very often…

Knock sensor $225(Only use a Toyota ST205 (MKIII MR2) sensor, there is a GM sensor cheapo fix but people in the UK who have tried them have killed their engines very quickly, the GM sensor is not as sensitive as the Toyota one. A good loud knock can blow a brand new Toyota sensor so have a few of these as spares to hand).
Intercooler pump $884
Radiator $525
A single driveshaft new is around $1200
A single wheel bearing is $149 (Then you need 2 seals for it at $28 each) Total $205
A drive shaft boot/gaiter is $149… Yes $149 for a bit of rubber!!!!
CV joint around $300 inc boot (You could get through a few of these puppies)
Rear Diff around $1800
Gearbox around $900 second hand, the stock box is good for 600Bhp… only problem is the synchros are made of chocolate, don’t know how to stick shift?? Don’t use this car to learn, it will punish you & cost a fortune to repair.

Now we get to the fabled super strut suspension…
Fig 8 & lower arm number 1 needs to be changed when this goes $1710 total, but you maybe unlucky & have to replace lower arm number 2 $2584 total
(I’m on my 3rd set of lower arms & fig 8’s, since I’ve owned the car).

Fig 8 $204 (You need 2 of these)
Lower Arm 1 $651 (You need 2 of these)
Lower Arm 2 $437 (You need 2 of these)

All of these are UK supply prices from Toyota Japan converted to US $’s, they are just for the PARTS you then need to pay for fitting & labour on top of that, at the moment Toyota UK charge £90 per hour labour which is around $167.
Yes your local mechanic can do it cheaper blah, blah, blah but you will learn very quickly not to trust ANYONE to do ANYTHING on a faff that doesn’t know these cars inside out, it’s a very expensive mistake to make & you will only make it once trust me on that!!

After all that the GT4 (All models) are a true driver cars, very satisfying to drive & a true beast on a track or gravel course.

What I mean by a drivers car is that you as a person have to know how to drive to use it.
Cars like the Superpoo & EVO are all controlled by a computer, any muppet can get in one & make it perform… with the GT4 it is all mechanical & skill pure & simple, if you don’t know how to drive on the edge then this is not the car for you

Hi there guys… n gals??
At present I am in the UK but will be moving to Texas next year.
I WILL be bringing my ST205 WRC over with me under the premise it will be a show/track car (I have been assured & passed paperwork that will allow me to bring the car over but not allowed to drive it on the US roads).
Does anyone have any information on registering the car/preparing the car to be US road legal??
Things I am looking for are emission limits, tweeks to the exterior, side lights etc etc

Can anyone help??

Cheers

1. Cut the turbo to actuator line.
2. Splice the turbo end to the in of the boost controller.
3. Splice the actuator end of the line to the out of the boost controller.
4. Cut the remaining actuator line (VSV line) & plug both ends with a bolt or line cap (Make sure you use a clip to hold the bolt or cap in as they could blow out under pressure).

Note: Make sure you keep the boost controller box as close to the turbo as possible & the line runs short as possible.

If you drop me a pm with your e-mail addy I can forward you some diagrams & pics I made up when I did mine.

3S-GTE is 2.5" OEM/Stock

If you’re running a CT20b you will get major boost creep running a full 3" system, unless you get the dual wastegate port machined out to one port.