6G Celicas Forums

Hey, hopefully i'm not to late, if your vehicle is stalling roughly 30mins-60mins after running, and stalls after it's been warm for a while and then wait till it cools and starts up again, then it's most likely your PRIMARY COIL it's called, and the codes you just got about the distributor is related to that. but the primary coil shouldn't be expensive?, at most it should b like 50-80 dollars. and i will garuntee you that's the problem. and yes, most mechanics are dumb.......

hey, just a thought for you guys who are loosing oil, have you guys checked your motors for sludge?

Hey, im sorry hanyo, it's not the bearing, the reason why the sound went away when you sprayed the bearing area is because some of the lubricant contacted the belt and lubricated the belt at the same time, which is a coincidence. That sound is coming from the drive belt, reason being is just within time, the belt will stretch a bit thus loosing tension. Best way and cheapest way to get rid of the noise, which you've already done but will come back is to just get a rag and a pair of long needle nose pliers, rap the rag around the pliers and spray it with a cleaner solvent such as brake clean and run it along the inside of the belt to clean up all the dirt. Then for the sure fire way to kill the noise is to put a little grease on the inside belt (obviously with the engine off). and the noise should be gone!, hopefully the belt is still good at this point.

Hey, the only reason why your are having so much trouble with the crank bolt is because from factory, those are set to like 160ft.lbs. If you really want to get it off, it's gonna have to be a to man job with a 3' poll on a breaker bar. And you don't have to spray anything on the bolt, although, it wouldn't hurt. One person said it in here, hold the bolt and crank the motor, although a very good idea, but like he said, very dangerous. Best way is to have on person, underneath the car and take off the cover that reveals the flywheel. That guy will have a pry bar and pin the flywheel against the bar thus allowing the crank from not moving. Then you will have the pole and crack it loose. BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!, before you even do allllll this, make sure you have the correct tool to take out that seal, because if you even have a small KNICK on that crank, having that little oil leak in the beginning will be the lease of your problems.

i know for sure it's not an interference motor. One way to know for sure whether or not it's an interference motor is while you have the timing belt off, you should be able to spin the crank with no resistance, meaning it's not hitting any valves. so you should be safe, now if your replacing the head gasket, my tip to you is to BUY EVERYTHING, because while you have the head off, it's a good idea to replace the valve seals, clean up the valves by lapping them, and clean the whole head because after you are all done, that motor will last another 200k miles.

Hi, if your doing it at home on the floor and with just hand tools, if i had to rate the difficulty from 1-10, 10 being the worst, i'm gonna say 11. haha, now i dont want to scare you, but you will have to drop the subframe while holding up the motor, that's probably the hardest part to figure out if your doing it on your garage floor. Now, on the other hand, if you had a shop and air tools, then the difficulty will prob drop to a 6. Not much special tools will be needed, but the only big concern is supporting that motor with no sub frame. O, and you dont' have to go crazy with that lock tite, only major one is on the flywheel bolts.

hi, is the vehicle misfiring at all?. When it first starts up cold, does it take a while for it to crank or does it just fire right up. How long does it take to warm up? im sorry if i ask so many questions.

haha, man o man, first thing's first, you NEED A timing light. the reason why the engine idle's real rough when you put in the paper clip is because you've set the ecu to go into learn mode basically. Once you get the timing light hooked up, aim it towards the crank and then you'll be able to advance the timing accordingly to the timing cover and there you go. And yes, as long as you car has a distrubutor, it is adjustable.

does it sputter from a cold start?, or does it sputter every time you accelerate from a stop?

Hey, thought i'd be able to chime in a little bit here, Uhm, if your car is a 95 st, it doesn't have lifters in it, if i'm not mistaken, most if not all 6g celicas have over head cams. If you have a knocking sounds, you will rule out engine mount because rubber insulators don't make a knocking sound, if the knocking sound were in the block, the sound increases as you rev the engine, it's most likely a rod knock coming from your block. if the knocking sound were in the head, you'd most likely have a misfire due to one of the valves snapped in half and not allowing any compression in the cylinder. Hope to hear it soon.