6G Celicas Forums

Are you completely sure that the rear seal is leaking? I only ask because it is uncommon for the rear seal to leak on a Toyota unless you have a ton of miles, and you are really getting into a big job where it is easy to screw a bunch of expensive stuff up. If you are sure that it is the rear seal, the first thing I would do is find a service manual for the car (most libraries have them) and read through the procedure for removing the transmission and replacing the seal. Make sure you have all the special tools that will be required. The manual will give you general directions; if you have any specific questions, I'm sure people here can answer them.

Yes, there should be a pin in addition to the screw.

For parts like the timing belt and water pump, it doesn't make any sense to use low quality or generic parts. The labor for these jobs outweighs the cost of the parts, plus if either one of those parts fails, you will be stuck, probably will have to pay for towing, and additional parts may become damaged. There is a lot in between 'generic' and genuine toyota parts though. For example, Bando belts are usually very good quality, and you can get them for a lot cheaper than at a Toyota dealership. I just would try to avoid looking for the cheapest possible no name parts.

There was recently another post with the exact same problem on this forum. There was a lot of discussion, pictures, etc. so I would try searching for it. Also, replacing fuel lines can be a real pain, especially if you have never done it before. If you don't have a lot of time to spend working on it, or if you can't get by without the car for a couple of days, I would just take it in.

If the dust shields are rubbing on the rotors, simply bend them back just enough so there is no contact.

You should get a trickle charger. The current is low (low enough so the battery can't be overcharged) so you can get ones that plug into the cigarette lighter. It is a very simple device, you can probably find one for under $10. I've even seen ones that run off of solar cells. A new battery will help, but it is probably still going to run down eventually if you are leaving the car unused for 2-3 weeks. Taking the battery out each time sounds a little ridiculous to me. In addition to the hassle of removing it, you will lose your clock and radio presets each time.

1. You may need to switch brand or type of brake pads; some are a lot more prone to squealing. Also, did you replace front and rear pads?

2. Did you get the discs refaced or replace them? If the pads were glazed, the discs are probably also glazed, and this can cause squealing.

3. Did the pads have shims or did you use anti-squeal compound?

Also, you should check to be sure the dust shields are not rubbing on the discs. Normally the CV joints make a clicking or grinding noise when they fail, I have never heard one squeal.

3.4c ... 7.5c? What is c?

Do you have ABS?

You say you checked at the input to the proportioning valve, but did you check the outputs? The valve can get stuck and you will only get pressure on one side.

You'll probably pay 300 minimum for labor plust the cost of the clutch, maybe $200. It's going to depend on where you live/other factors though. I would call a couple of places, they can probably give you a pretty good idea of what it will cost over the phone.

They might, but not necessarily. You can still balance a rim that is bent. It is also possible that the tire was damaged; either one can cause the symptoms you describe. Rotate the tires and see if the problem moves to the front. It is most likely not related to the alignment, and I would not suspect the brake discs if it happened after you hit a curb.

I tried to do it once and don't think I ever would again. It takes forever to get them to look good, and even with high temperature paint it does not seem to last, esp. in winter. Even the powder coated replacement calipers that I bought began to rust through in about a month. I have rear drum brakes, and I do paint the drums. The only way I can get it to last is to clean and repaint them about once a year; the drums seemed to be a lot easier to paint than the calipers though. If you want to paint them, you may want to only do one and wait a couple weeks to see how it holds up before spending the time to do all four.

I've never heard of performance chips for toyotas, but based on what I've seen on other cars I would guess there is no way you would get that much increase.

Ok I see what you mean about the magnets, but I'm not sure how well it would work. Normally if you can angle the fuel line down when you are cutting it, this will prevent most of the filings from getting in the line. If a few filings get into the line, it shouldn't cause a problem, since there is a strainer in the tank, plus the fuel filter by the engine.

There will be wiring for the fuel pump/level sender. You probably won't have to worry about it if you are only lowering the tank a few inches.

Right, this is what I was suggesting to save time. Just make sure that you use fuel injection hose. The pressure is no problem (return line has little pressure anyway) but the fuel injection hose has a liner that is resistant to oxygenated fuel, ethanol, etc. It is probably 8mm line, but you can usually use 5/16" hose.

As for the pinch cutter, I've only used one to remove old lines. I can't tell you for sure, but it would probably work as long as you could open the tube back up with pliers and file down any rough edges. The line needs to be open, but doesn't need to be perfectly round. I lost you at the magnets though. If you do decide to go this route, I'd practice on a piece of scrap tubing before you cut anything on the car. If you don't have any, buy a small piece to practice on when you get the hose.

I've done it many times before, it works fine. Cut slowly and try to angle the tube down so that the metal filings don't get into the fuel line.

I'd stick with replacing the few inches of line if at all possible. I've run all new fuel lines before and it really takes a lot of time; especially if you want them to look professionally done. My guess is the shop that you went to didn't know what they were getting into with the brake lines.

What did the hubs cost? Did you get them from Toyota?

Use a hack saw or one of those mini tubing cutters. Just don't use any type of grinder. What I usually do is remove the blade from the hack saw, bend it as necessary and cut the tube using the blade by itself. It takes a little while (may take 20 mins to cut through this way), but it is easier than removing the tank. It doesn't have to be perfect, but I would file any rough edges or burrs on the end of the tube, which may cut into the rubber hose. You may be able to cut it right at the bottom of the bend and slip the hose over the bend. I'd start by removing the rubber hose at the bottom (have a gas can ready). If there is a lot of gas in the tank, quite a bit will usually siphon out of that line if you disconnect it.

From your pictures, it looks like the only thing that is leaking is the rusted fuel return line right near the rubber hose. If this is the only leak, I would just cut the steel tube above the rusted part and replace the hose with a longer piece. Make sure you use 'fuel injection' rated tubing. The vent line and supply line appear to be ok from the pictures, I would leave them alone. Running all new steel fuel lines is a real pain, I would try to avoid this if at all possible.

It doesn't seem acceptable that they would give you the car back leaking fuel like that. The line probably was rusted and about to break off when you brought it in, but like you say they should have at least mentioned it at some point.

I don't think they can check service records like that unless it is related to a recall. Maybe there is something new though?

This has been my experience also. Usually you get at least a little warning. On these cars though, you usually have to remove a bunch of stuff including the timing belt to get to the water pump so it saves a lot of time to replace it when you are doing the timing belt. If you recently replaced the timing belt, I would probably wait until either the timing belt is due for replacement again or the water pump starts to leak and replace both at that time.

Yes that makes a lot more sense. Sorry, I wasn't complaining about your grammar or anything, I thought you were trying to reduce the amount of vacuum in the engine or something.

It seems to me that it would be much easier and cheaper to just replace the leaking vac tubing than trying to remove those things and make the ECU think that they're still there.

You don't have to cycle the fuel pump or remove any lines if you run out of gas. The fuel pump will prime itself and the car will start as long as you add fuel to the tank. The crank pulley bolt usually isn't that bad on these engines. If it is a manual trans, put it in 5th gear and parking brake on to hold the pulley.

If you mess with the EGR, the service engine light will come on, cylinder temperatures will be too high and the car would likely fail any emission test. It isn't going to make the car faster or increase performance. Vacuum reduction?? What are you talking about?