6G Celicas Forums

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=180851084639

Bump. I need this car gone - open to offers.

This car must go. I might accept a cheeky offer - I'd prefer to see it go to someone on the forum than to flog it on ebay so make me an offer today!

--
Gen6, LPG, 1999/T, Purple #168, 189k Miles, £offers. E.Mids.

I'm finally selling my celica as I have just purchased a Lexus sc430.

The good points

Tons of mods including professionally installed BRC Sequent LPG system; GT4 aluminium bonnet conversion; genuine JDM projector highs and clear lows; JDM spec. tails; JDM OEM (Tom's / AeroEurou Magic) front lip. If you purchased the last four second hand off ebay and added the cost of converting a celica to LPG at today's prices you would be looking at £1900 just for these.

Other notable mods include:
* Lowered and stiffened ride (TTE springs, poly bushes, rear strut brace, KYB shocks on front).
* OEM wind deflectors
* 6 speaker sound
* TTE pedals
* Hyper sports mats

I've been using this car as my daily commute (~320 miles/week) until two weeks ago (see below).

I'll also include my collection of spares and swapped parts include 5 original alloys with tyres, plastic boot liner (the rare OEM one), C-One fiberglass hood, rear splats.


The bad points
* Ding on nearside wing, which has also broken one of the tabs for the nearside projector light.
* Climate control needs regassing
* Scratch down the drivers' side across door and rear quarter
* Front lip B K Racing alloys would benefit from a refurb.
* Brake fluid leak nearside front. This defect will prevent the car from being able to be driven away safely.



















More pics and details:

http://www.6gc.net/c...-hatchback-6642

Location: Near Northampton, East Midlands, UK.

Please email md84419@gmail.com if you have any questions as I rarely log in here anymore.

Nice job!

Yea 21 and 19. If you go for 21 and 20 and use te flat wipers, the edge of the 20 tends to not follow the contour of the windshield - lifting off at the very edge. I emailed the ebay seller Luke suggested to tell them they had their size wrong. The rear is 20 (IIRC) but can take a fair bit bigger than that if you wish.

Almost. The premium panel is leather not vinyl & cloth.

Be careful. Those seatbelt plugs aren't all the same. If you look really closely, you should be able to make out a 5 digit number in tiny writing on the plug or socket. Use that to check that you are getting the right plug.

The plug varies pre-facelift vs post-facelift and US vs UK vs JDM. So far, I've found cars with three different plugs all doing the same job - very annoying.

Also depends on the intended territory. IIRC, OBDII was standard fit on the USDB 96+ and JDM 98+. UK/Europe didn't get OBDII in 6th Gen. at all.

Nope, same mount.

Yea they did. Some of the convertibles had black mirrors.

I have a black mirror. Very dark charcoal grey actually. Offers?

It is a particular type of rivet - high tensile and shear strength. If you look at them on the seat rails, you'll see they are quite different to pop rivets.

Yes, but quite a lot of fabbing actually. The seat rails are narrower than the Celica and the brackets are in a different place. I got some about 9 months ago and am still trying to find someone who can rivet the brackets.

And make sure that you have actually replaced the taillight bulbs. As mentioned above, they are dual filament.

I think having three or four people with sysadmin rights makes a lot of sense. I would be very willing to put my name down as long as at least two others also have rights (I have a very busy work life and don't want an AWOL period to cause problems for others). I also have some mysql, php, smarty, perl and python skills (my day job) so might be able to add a few little features from time to time.

BTW, if anyone has an email address for Chris, please can you PM me it. I have his @6gc.net address but mail to that address is bouncing.

Edit: Next post has the full materials and tools list.

A how-to guide would be awesome.

It is possible to identify the manufacturer of the connector housing or loom assembly by the logo on the part:

Yazaki (often just the arrow/eye logo without the accompanying text)



Sumitomo



Tyco



???

Oh, well spotted!

I have the following parts for sale. Prices do not include P&P. Small parts will be $19 to the US via Royal Mail Parcels inc. insurance. P&P prices for larger/heavier parts available on request. UK Members are welcome to pick up from me in Northamptonshire (South Midlands, UK). I accept paypal.


a/c heater resistor $39. (not suitable for JDM climate control)
a/c solenoid $39. This is the one just to the left of the driver's foot rest. Denso p/n 063700-5220. Complete with uncut wiring loom. (not suitable for JDM climate control)
a/c amplifier circuit $39. Toyota p/n 88650-2B420, Denso p/n 277100-1070. (not suitable for JDM climate control)
a/c amplifier wiring loom $19. Denso p/n 246450-0294. (not suitable for JDM climate control)

picture of amplifier circuit and aircon loom:



a/c control $69 or offers. This is for RHD suitable for UK and Australian markets. VGC. Denso p/n 255912-0230.


oem boot carpet - full-height hump style. $40 (1 available). Toyota part number 58570-20200-C0. Generally good condition with some light soiling and depressions.
oem 7200 redline /9000 rpm tacho head $29
oem 120mph speedo / 90275 miles (145277 km) odo head $29.



oem Drivers' (LH) heated seat switch $29. Sorry, I only have the LH.



The following are free to a good home. Just pick up from me or pay P&P only:
a/c temperature sensor - p&p. This is the sensor that goes inside the heat exchanger unit.
oem wheel well hardboard cover - p&p. This is for the full-height wheel. It is slightly warped but otherwise in generally good condition. Will go back into shape when the humped carpet is placed over it.

I can take pictures of anything that is of interest. Just let me know which item(s).

nervermind

What makes you think it is the WRC version? I don't see anything that says it is WRC.

But some interesting dealer options and aftermarket stuff.

In addition to the ABS, sunroof and premium audio, it also has the JDM electronic toll collector by the looks of it (centre of the dashboard up by the vents for the windscreen), hyper sports mats and the sunguard (high-level spoiler on the tailgate).

The oem pole - shouldn't there be two - one on each side?

Aftermarket stuff includes the daytime running lights in the mid grille, the hood pins, alloys, exhaust, tinted rear quarter windows, PIAA horns, grounding kit, what looks like a turbo timer down by the fuse box cover at the drivers' knee position, two additional guages on the dashboard (far right of the picture) and some weird switch on a knuckle near where the rear fog switch would normally be.

Just looked to me like the beams are pointing above the horizontal. Any car in the middle-distance, the driver is going to be dazzled by the lights.

Much simpler, but does mean that one could over-crank the starter by keeping the push button pressed for too long on startup, or crank the starter momentarily if the clutch was depressed while pushing the start/stop button to stop the car.

This feels like the kind of problem that automotive accessory manufacturers would have already solved. It is fun to design and build such circuits - but I wonder if there isn't something already out in the market that would do what you want and is affordable.

Okay, so what we have here is (numbering the relays from top to bottom and left to right):

Push and hold the push button: energisies the colis for relay #1 (latching relay) and #2.

Current flows from the posivie terminal of the battery through the switch for relay #2, the switch for relay #3, through the clutch switch (when the clutch is fully depressed) and through the coil for relay #4.

Th current flowing through the coil of relay #4 in turn closes the switch for relay #4, which allows current to flow from the +ve terminal of the battery, through switch of relay #4 to the starter motor. The starter motor turns, causing the engine to crank and start, at which point the red box (pin 5 of the ECU) goes from open circuit state to +ve voltage.

Current flows from pin 5 of the ECU through the coil of relay #3, breaking the circuit at relay #3 switch, which in turn stops the current flowing through the coil of relay #4, causing the switch at relay #4 to open and the starter motor to stop turning.

At this point, relay #1 is latched (switch is closed), relay #2 is energised (switch is closed), relay #3 is energised (switch is open), relay #4 is un-energised (switch is open), ACC, IGN and pin 5 are all +ve.

Releasing the push switch causes relay #2 to be un-energised (swich opens), which has no effect.

Pressing the push switch a second time causes relay #2 to energise (switch closes), which has no effect, and the ratchet-and-cam locking relay #1 to switch states (so that the switch is in the open position again).

This causes the ACC and IGN lines to become open circuit and presumably causes pin 5 of the ECU to go open circuit also.
With IGN open circuit, the engine and most of the electrical systems will shut down.

At this point, relay #1 is unlatched (switch is open), relay #2 is energised (switch is closed), relay #3 is un-energised (switch is closed), relay #4 is un-energised (switch is open), ACC, IGN and pin5 are all open circuit.

There is a minor problem here, in that if one were now to depress the clutch, the starter motor would crank. This could be solved by powering the left-side of the relay #2 switch from IGN rather than from +ve battery.

Releasing the push switch causes relay #2 to be un-energised (swich opens), which has no effect. At this point everything is back to its initial state.

One other advantage with using the double-press to start the engine (and having a timeout function) is that then a single press could toggle te ACC circuit on and off, which is exactly the same functionality on the factory-fitted Toyota start buttons.

No, it's not quite right. You have the ACC and IGN lines tied together at the top and once the button is pressed the first time, they are additionally tied to the battery. Perhaps some diodes? Additionally, you probably want some diodes across the relay coils to prevent back-emf and probably use latching relays rather than have the coils always energised for the latching function.

Are you assuming that when the battery is disconnected from IGN and ACC, pin 5 will go to ground? Oterwise, I can't tell how a second press kills the car.

For safety's sake, I'd suggest either two presses within one second should be needed to turn the car on/off or alternatively a 1 second long press.

One final consideration - if you don't already have one, fit an immobiliser and position the coil wherever you are going to put your keys (eg next to a cubby hole). They you can just throw the keys in the cubby hole when you jump in the car, but without the keys in the cubby hole someone else won't be able to start and steal your car.