6G Celicas Forums

Using the bass adjustment on the headunit is not helping. I've seen lots of subs blow that way. You are asking the amp to overdrive the sub.

Having the level and gains on the amp all the way down is a waste also.

When you crank up the volume and have the bass adjustment turned up you are very likely to produce distortion, now feed that signal into the amp and your subs have no chance.

Set your bass adj at 0. Put in a cd with what you normally listen to. Turn up the radio to max, if you have a separate amp for the mids and highs unplug it for now. If not turn it up until you hear distortion then back off a little. Now on the sub amp turn up you level until you hear distortion and turn the level back a touch.

If you have a separate amp for mids and highs adjust it the same way. Up until distortion then back off a touch.

Listen to some music at different volumes and decide if there is enough bass for you. If not use the gain a touch at a time to adjust the amount of bass. You may need to readjust the gain also.

Doing this will allow you to run at max power without distortion. Distortion will chew up subs.

Everything you need to know is in the FAQ.

Alarm Install

Does the heat work? Fan blowing air?

If those work normally until you press the a/c button then odds are it's the clutch on the compressor.

Yellow is the standard color for an air bag harness.

Look under the hood you can spot them real easy.

That is / was the rca outputs. Good luck splicing them. There is a center conductor and a shield surrounding it, can be tricky to splice.

If I was gonna do it, I would open the case and solder new rca's to the board.

It's very possible the fuse blew again when you replaced it. Check the one that was blown again. If it's bad then something is shorted out. If you have an aftermarket radio installed that's the first place I'd start checking wires.

Simply put the 4" speaker and 1" tweeter are considered a single channel and the power rating given is for the pair together. Both speaker connect to the crossover and it divides the signal to the proper speaker. The amp only sees it as one speaker so both do get the full 75W.

Check the fuse. Should be a 20 amp (radio no. 1) the switched 12v comes from the (cig & rad) 15amp.

If the fuse is ok it's either a broken wire or you connected to the wrong wire.

If you can detach the cord from the detector try plugging it in by itself. If the fuse still blows the cord has a short. Odds are there is a problem with either the cord or the detector itself, they don't use much power.

DEI the people that make Viper and Python to name a few, make a window module that works with or without an alarm. The DEI 530T will add auto up and down to both windows and it can be found for about $50. Had one in my last car, works great.

The most common part to fail is the clock-spring inside the steering column.

Like trdproven said test the horn itself first. But my money is on the spring being broken.

If the screen was meant for install in a car then it probably goes to the reverse lights. On most screens there is an input to switch to the rear view camera input automatically when you are in reverse.

CelicaTech

You will need to register for access to the BGB section. The wiring diagrams are in there.

I'm with lubu on this one. Sounds like your amp is staying on. When you turn off your car does the power light on the amp stay on? If it does either the amp's remote is connected to a constant power source instead of a switch or the relay inside the amp is stuck on. It's almost always just wired wrong.

Also you said you got a new battery and drove to work for 15 mins. A new battery isn't fully charged. It will take a couple of hours of driving or better yet over night with a slow charger to fully charge the new battery.

looking at the schematic there is only one pump. Based on the circuit it appears the motor changes direction for the front or back with a relay that is part of the pump.

First hold the switch to supply water for the rear window and listen for the pump. Mine usually take at least 10-15 secs before I get fluid in back.

You will need to pull the rear panel and check for power at the wiper motor. The pump and wiper motor get power from the same fuse. So if your fronts work the back should too.

I've only had one leak but it was enough. Now just to be sure I pack a little silicone caulk or black RTV (whichever is handy) around the wire and onto the grommet. Odds are you won't have a leak but a little extra protection never hurts.

First thing to check is the balance control on the radio.

True. I just wanted to get the point across that there needs to be something in place to protect the wiring and an inline ANL fuse holder is pretty easy to add.

My guess, based on the fact that the problem started when a new cd deck was installed and all the lights seem to be backlight related. Is the illumination/dimmer wire. I've seen cars do wacky things when the dimmer wire is hooked up incorrectly.

First thing I would do is pull the radio and disconnect the wiring harness. Hopefully there is a adapter harness and your stock wiring isn't cut. If not at least unplug from the back of the radio. Then try your lights. Also make sure the plug is seated in the dimmer switch. It needs to be connected.

The illumination wire you are looking for is green on the cars wiring and it should be a yellow wire on the radio. Check to see how it's hooked up. If it did get hooked up wrong it's possible the dimmer is shot. But not likely.


All of the lights are on the 7.5 amp "panel" fuse. Should be under the hood. I know you have said you checked/pulled everyone. Did you check them by looking or with a meter. I've come across many fuses that look fine but don't test when using a meter. Since the problem has been around a while and you've checked as much as you have you really need to get back to basics and start from square one.

You may find the fuse bad replace it and it still doesn't work. There may still be a wiring problem.

I would disconnect the radio and replace the fuse to start and go from there.

Hope this makes sense... it's 3am and I can't think or see straight.

Just some advice for everyone putting their battery in the trunk. Make sure you put a fuse on the positive lead as close as possible to the battery. You guys all seem to be doing it properly using the correct gauge of wire to reduce current loss. But if that wire gets cut somehow and there isn't a fuse you will have a fire. Wire that size doesn't melt to easily to break the circuit. It does get white hot in a hurry though.

Also don't be concerned about drilling back there. The fuel tank stops before the forward edge of the spare tire well and that is between the strut towers. Just get underneath and look before you drill but there isn't much back there. I'd be more worried about a 100 pound battery loose in case of an accident.

I think most of the workings are the same except the motor is missing. Just open up your door and look around and see how close it is to xs94st's how-to. There isn't much holding in the windows on cars. I'd give it a try before I took it to a shop.

Just remember there is a clip holding the window crank on. It can be a PITA.

The original post is from March 05. I wouldn't count on getting the pics reposted. They've been dead for a long time.

Are you sure it's a RS300? I only found instructions for the RS3000.

RS3000 Instructions

I agree second skin makes a great product, better than dynamat extreme IMO. But just like dynamat it is expensive. I use the RAAMaudio stuff because it performs well and it is easy on the wallet.

Secondskin's Damplifier Pro is $279.36 for 80 sq. ft. 2 rolls plus shipping is about $600. $3.50 sq ft.

Dynamat Xtreme Bulk Pak from the dynamat website is $270 for 36 sq ft. $7.50 sq ft. (can be found cheaper)

RAAMaudio each roll is 62.5 sq. ft. when you buy 2+ rolls it's $109.16 each. $1.76 sq ft.

I used 2 rolls and had some left over but if you go all out and use 3 rolls it's still about half the price. For the price you could put in extra layers and still save money.

This is based on my experience. Everyone has their favorite. I've just had really good luck with RAAMaudio and I've been really happy with the results.

If you can get a discount on dynamat xtreme it's a descent performer. But probably still close to the price of damplifier pro which would be my first choice.

I did my whole car a few months ago using RAAMmat BXT60. Much better than dynamat and costs less too. I did a single layer on the floor. Double layer inside each door, the panels behind the rear speakers and the quarter panels. The rear wheel wells also got a double layer. I bought 2 rolls and still have quite a bit left. My biggest complaint with the celica was always road noise especially when it rained. The RAAMmat made a huge difference. The doors also sound much more solid when you close them now. More like a high end car. Once suggestion. Once you layer the outer door panels cover over the opening on the inner door panel then cover the entire inner panel with a layer of your chosen sound deadener. There is a how to about this on the raamaudio site listed below.

Sounddeadener Showdown great comparison of all the products out there.

RAAMaudio Source for RAAMmat and some good how to's.