6G Celicas Forums

the two holes are so the bracket can be mounted on the inside of the wing mirrors bolts

Euro 3sge's are 175bhp anyway, so 190s not too far away!

Heres mine: its an original toyota colour. The code is 8k9 and its technically known as "purpleish blue metallic"!

The only thing id say about it is that it might look the TINYEST bit girly If i were respraying id have it in black anyday!

That was on tv here on sunday (and i belive its repeated tonigt)

It was an hour of madness... those rednecks were NUTTERS! t'was awesome tho

On a slightly less exciting front, overhere ford sold the fiesta mk4 rights to mazda who rebadged it (and very very very slightly facelifted it) and sell it as the mazda 121!

in the snow last week

awesome thankyou!

The power aerial wire i THINK is pink/purple... the remote you want to connect the amp to is the (thin) blue wire (possiblly with a white line)

Ive just got some new Alpine tweeters. On my old tweeters (5th gen - dont ask!) there were some inbuilt capacitors and on these there are nothing... im running them straight from the headunit (52w pmpo... more likely than not about 25w RMS)...

My question is: should i put caps in the way of the tweeters or will it be ok to plug them straight in? As far as i know all the caps do is remove the low frequencies to not damage the tweeters. The other option as far as i can see would be to buy some crossovers and just use them for the high's...

Any advice???

Ive got 8 inch kicker subs in my doors (RMB8's) ... The reason why i put them is is because they're more secure than a sub in the boot and im probably overly paranoid about getting broken into (aparantly bristol is the car crime capital of the UK!)!

Yes they did rattle a hell of a lot before i deadened the doors. Theyre infinatly better now (especially when the doors warm up! as its about -3 degrees here at the mo!)

Either way there are a few pointers that i can give you:

1- buy "free air" subs - these are designed not to be in enclosed spaces (so are for places like doors).

2- one of the main problems with subs is that there are no mid range frequencies... this means you need to get some awesome 6.5" rear speakers as well as some decent tweeters to cover the midrange.

3- amp them. They sound useless without as you need lots of watts to power 8"s generally

4- sound deaden. Ive used fairly cheap ivanhoe stuff but it makes such a difference. Also make sure its thougherly warm and clean before you attach it otherwise it wont stick and will fall off. Make sure you use as much as you can!

Hope this helps

If it looks like the one Stu posted then you'll probably be hard pushed to get a suitable connecter (unless you already have one???). If you do manage to get one my best guess is that you will have to join the speaker cables, remote and power cables up to that... and if thats the case then its probably only 45w PMPO as even 45w rms will take a slighly thicker cable than that!!!

I very much doubt itll be bridgeable... but 45w RMS stereo would be ok for a low powered pair of 6x9s or something! If your wanting to use a sub your MUCH better off getting a more powerfull amp!

Oh and that round shaped odd socket is an old DIN connection! kinda shows the age of the amp

I BELIEVE that the 721's about 45 watts RMS so its not gonna be great for a sub... the best thing you can do with it is to power your front door speakers but only if they're aftermarket ones (DO NOT AMP THE STOCK ONES - they're only 15w and will last about 10 seconds amp'd!!!)

Anyway, what you wanna do is buy a cable kit, this will comprise of:

- 1x RCA cable (same ones as hifi's use, phonos)
- 2 x speaker cables
- 1 x remote
- 1 x ground cable
- 1 x power cable (with built in fuse)

From here, BASICALLY what you do is find somewhere to install your amp (the boot is the traditional place but there are others!). Then you want to run speaker wires between your amp and your speakers. If you run these down the sides of your car, under the carpet. (to do this wire it from the speakers foward, under the boot carpet, under the back seats at the sides, unclip your foot guard under the doors to access the main carpet wire runs and run it through here, and then under the dash. Now comes the tricky part, poke it through the door rubbers and into your doors, and finally connect it to your speakers! you'll need the door cards off to do this and the speakers out.)

to do this wire it from the speakers foward. Start by taking the door cards off, and take the speaker out. Now comes the tricky part, poke it through the door rubbers and into your car (the best way to do this is with a custom made coat hanger!) and then under the dash. Now unclip your foot guard under the doors to access the main carpet wire runs and run it through here, under the back seats at the sides, under the boot carpet into your amp

WHILE your doing this, run the phono/RCA cable and the remote cable in the same way, but run from to the back of your head unit, and plug the RCA cable in to the pre out. Connect the remote to the ISO loom on your head unit - itll be the blue cable with the white stripe. run them on the underside of your dash and under the ide carpets.

Next, find a good earthing point in the boot. I found that the bolt that holds the back seats in this works perfectly as long as its clean. Connect one end of the ground wire to this and the other to the amp.

The final thing to do is to run the power lead. You need to do this in a simlar way to the speaker cables but when you get to the front of the car you need to get it throgh the firewall (the solid bit between your dash and the engine!). I tapped into a hole that was already there, which is the ideal situation. Get someone who knows what their doing to help you with this!!! Connect this wire directly to the battery and the amp and finally plug in the fuse!

This all sounds fairly daunting but its really not that hard. Google it if i've made no sense!!

Has anyone used a TRD air filter?? eg...

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_airfilter.html

Ive been tempted by the K & N version but now ive seen the TRD ... I dont want an induction kit as my insurance is already high enough!!! Are these any better than standard panel filters?

Yeah give it a go... see what it sounds like - im running 100w RMS infinities in the back from my head unit and they sound fine! at the end of the day amps arent all that much and you could easily add one later.

let us know how you get on

Those audiobahn fronts take a MASSIVE amout of power - 200w RMS... if you put the 17w RMS from your headunit into them then they will work, but they're gonna be nowhere near what they could be... ideally youre gonna want to amp them too... in which case a 4 channel amp might be a better idea... if you can find something that puts out around 100w rms you'll be laughing...

oops yeah - missed your wiring kit! ok your pretty much set then... What about the rears speakers?? Their 6.5 inch (in the uk cars at least)...

Oh and your gonna have to make some kinda mount to fit your front speakers...

If your planning on using that amp for just your subs it will be fine, but not great ... the subs are 4 ohm and take 80w RMS where as the amp is 50w rms (x2) at 4ohm

You'll need some wiring kits for your amp and speakers... You'll probably also need an ISO wiring loom to fit your head unit (unless it comes with one). with that much bass id also reccomend some kind of so8und deadening kit, eg dynamat or similar (see my last topic!!!!)

I spent this afternoon installing Ivanhoe sound deadening into my celi's doors. This is the stuff i used (but i got it for £14 per 100x60 from my local car hifi shop and i needed one sheet per door):

Ivanhoe stuff on ebay

If anyones umm-ing and ahh-ing about deadening their doors i cannot reccomend it enough!!!

Ive got 8" Kickers in my doors that just rattled and buzzed before and sounded crap... the difference is phenominal! At first it wasnt great because the stuff didnt really bind to the doors properly (i did it in 8 degrees!) but now ive heated it all through properly its made the world of difference! Just gotta sort out the million other rattles now!!

If you do it make sure its heated through properly before hand on a radiator (be careful though because bitchamin gets everywhere!) and have a hair dryer and a roller handy! Also make sure all of the panels are clean - ive read of people using a variety of chemicals to do this but i used regualr brake cleaner and it worked a treat!

Overall im well chuffed with it!

Well i guess no one could help then! I eventually figued it out (an took my chances!)

The 2 other wires are positive and negative triggers. Most alarms use just positive and negative with no triggers, however the scorpion systems do - including the t5000 (or scorpion 5000). This particular system had a poritive trigger, which meant that i linked the BROWN cable upto the positive on the siren.

Red - Positive
Black - Negative
Brown - Positive trigger
Orange - Negative trigger.

On the siren that i bought the +ve trigger was a white cable, which i connected to the brown and the orange was negative. ONLY EVER HAVE 3 OF THE 4 CONNECTED!!!! do not use the orange!!! Hopefully this'll help someone!

yeap i think i know the one... if its the same rattle as ive got its incredibly annoying! If you press down on your steering coloum shroud does it go away???? ive got a pen wedged in there at the moment - ive had it all apart to try and find the rattle but i cant find it anywhere!

Ok well i think ive found where the siren should sit, and the dealers wiring plug that goes into it... there are 4 wires going to the plug - these are:

black
red
brown
orange

Ive looked at a few sirens on ebay and they tend to have a red and a black (+/-) wire... what are the other 2 wires for? or am i barking up the wrong tree?

edit: Ive spoken to scorpion and they've confirmed that i have the right plug - they wouldnt tell me what the wires were tho! they tried to sell me a £30 + vat compatable siren... so what are they for?!!! can i just get a normal siren and run it from the red and black wires???

Hey all, i have a 95 GT uk car which has got a dealer fit (pffft) alarm system. Im pretty sure its the t5000.

Most of it works fine, i just have no sound from it! im guessing my sirens broke (or not there!) but i cant find it ANYWHERE! Where is it installed???

The remote locking works fine and the alarm works (ie everytihing flashes) but no sound at all!

The other question about it is the immobilzer... is there one with the t5000? even with the alarm flashing i can start the car... which seems odd!

thanks in advance james

Im wondering about installing climate control...

Ive found a cheap facia/control panel, what more would i theoretically need??? My car doesnt have air con, so not bothered if these buttons dont work do anything!

Im guessing all the wiring will be there? Is there a seperat control unit that ill need aswell?

Cheers in advance!

Thats one hell of a battery!!!!

Ok thanks, so any idea of the concequences of ignoring it?? im still confuddled as to what it means/does!

cheers, James