6G Celicas Forums

PIC TIME

engine back from boring and assembly


taped for painting


painted with some eastwood engine paint. this stuff was really great to work with and holds up really well


new block next to the old engine that got pulled out



fun things with assembly, arp main cap studs interfere with the oil pan...found out the hard way but made happy little indents that helped me locate where I needed to make clearances!




Oil pan baffle plate to combat those G's on the track!


mounted the sensor breakout box


Assembled engine



Once in, I tested the fit of the turbo








probably will look alot better with the lip on



removed all the turbo stuff and returned to NA to start the new motor.
once started found a leak that would keep me busy for the next 4 weeks and require me to remove the trans 3 times (i think? maybe 2)


after alot of rear main seal nonsense I think in the end it was this galley plug which the engine builders put in, it was not the exact correct thread spec. I dont remember correctly but the one they put in was like BSPP vs BSPT.


once everything was running I got to use my buddies garage to try and get the turbo fitted before a race (didnt end up getting it in)


took the car out racing to test the motor and everything went well with no hiccups.
got the car a gift, header tank and coolant swirl pot


had a fun time with QC between two different brands of fittings


fitted.



last shoot of the year



no real upcoming plans, just trying to get a house so that the car can finally be in the same state as me during the off season and I can start picking away at getting the turbo fitted and working. There is an annoying squeaking that the engine makes when it gets up to temp that makes it sound like a jetsons ship. That'll get checked out before anything else so I dont get weird looks at stoplights

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They are the "Hot Street" 277°/269°'s
they are going to go off to the side for the time being. The billet intake cam "requires" that the buckets be DLC coated to lessen wear. And my spare head needs to be line honed to get rid of the camshaft bearing wear. Im not sure what im going to do about that yet as I could buy 2 Grey Top BEAMS for the price of a line hone for one head lol


lol, I like to do things the hard way. We will see what it ends up being.


No. Literally havent even started lol. Like havent seen the car in over a month and its all still together. How hard could this all be? I can do it in a weekend. Maybe 10 weekends.



I am still waiting on pistons. Everything seems to be on backorder. Everything is just hanging out at the machine shop waiting for pistons.

Appointment for manifold fab mid-march so I figure by then things will start moving along.

Late Spring (Hopefully) 2021

you can find adapters easily and then use 20V blacktop ITBs. Youd probably need some short velocity stacks so you can clear the firewall

You'd need to run a standalone.

You won't see a significant power increase. Youll have a bit snappier throttle response

If there is a 5000-mile exempt rule like there is in PA (where my car is reg'd)

just get a digital dash like I have and make the ODO whatever you want it to be and be exempt for lyfe

rolling into the 15th year of ownership I really want to take a big step up and take the car to a new level.

Ive kept mods pretty minimal the past year and a half and focused mostly on things to keep the car running reliably (and also keeping the valves in line which probably also cut down on what I had to focus on)

But slowly this fall I started to form a plan on what I wanted to do. Like most of my endeavors, I'm sure that I am biting off WAY more than I can chew but hoping that by giving myself an early start on planning this fall, that I can get everything together for Spring 2021. This is all new territory for me, lets see how bad I can screw this up I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I AM DOING















oh and a nice Lil aux sensor wiring project I did at the beginning of the pandemic






black friday purchase inbound

what tow service did you use to get the car to that location? were they expensive?

for the rear I would just take some aluminum sheet and form some sort of scoop to direct some under body air to the rotor/caliper. Or just use a 2ft section of ducting hose and tie it to the control arm and direct it towards the nose. Thats a quicker fix

im glad its still running great and that you are improving it even more!!

yes and no. I thought I was buying a delete, but it just replaces the glass. But I am going to make it into a delete


yeah and thats only like 25% throttle lol

cars been running okay-ish
It hesitates under load so it dont really get on it. AFR sticks around 14.5 under load and doesnt budge so I am waiting until I get everything squared away with the LINK to hopefully fix this or at the very least help diagnose it better


picked up an accusump from my buddy. Test fitted it, and need to send it out for cleaning.


went to test the basemap and it didnt start. After talking to Mark from Panic made. I thought the LINK was wired for MAF but it is wired for Speed density so it wouldnt start...that and the ECU isnt getting enough voltage during cranking


got a carbon bit. Cant really fit it till the wintertime since the car is outside most of the summer.





cant race or go fast so in the meantime, car meets and pics it is

head swap and problem found!
as expected Intake Valve 1

took the bucket off to find the keepers kept lol


Under the bucket






damage found...on Cylinder 2&3
Not great but I decided to yolo and bolt it all back up. Everything is running fine but Im starting to collect parts to rebuild the spare block for when this one decided to go



head swap and problem found!
as expected Intake Valve 1

took the bucket off to find the keepers kept lol


Under the bucket






damage found...on Cylinder 2&3
Not great but I decided to yolo and bolt it all back up. Everything is running fine but Im starting to collect parts to rebuild the spare block for when this one decided to go

hmm freelica not free?

spam.

this is a fifteenhundredlica

update:

picked up this crazy cheap red top as a spare backup


good thing I did. I decided i was going to ignore the tapping the motor was currently making as I couldn't figure out the issue and wanted to see if it showed any further issues with a light drive around the block. That lasted all of 10min. An intake valve in Cyl 1 dropped. The pic below is BDC then TDC...valve no move until the piston pushes it up


I was about to just swap the engine over completely but decided to take the head off of the spare motor and maybe rebuild it and put it on.
Currently deciding on how much I want to do to it or just get it cleaned and then put it on.

Compression #s were good on the motor it just needed alot of new seals and pumps and my current one is pretty fresh.
cylinder walls are in ok condition with a bit of wear



oh yah, also got a G4+ Fury because I couldnt wait for them to release the G4X Fury

no there are no suppliers in the US yet, you can find them at GT4play, thats one of the better sources

Towed pretty well. It chooses some odd gears at certain points so I think it could benefit from a different selection strategy. MPGs were around 15 so thats not too bad. Acceleration was slightly sluggish but it wasnt anything dangerous. The braking was very good. I dont feel as connected to the brakes and steering as I do in the fit. The brakes I can probably mess with to get where I want, the steering...its a truck so I dont think Im going to match that responsiveness and feel I had in the fit

no, my buddy is an alumni of an auto tech school and they never had cars at their booth so he saw an opportunity. So he drew up a plan and we have an annual sponsorship to bring our cars to the autoshow and some other shows during the year


thank you, it may not work right at the moment, but at least it looks good lol

knocked out a few last minute things the night before dropping the car off at the show
picked up the manifold from the coaters. Its really gold. really really gold. They also advised me that cerakote is a very thin coating. Idk how its considered a decent thermal barrier. It scraped off from the socket when I was tightening down a nut. Either way I wrapped it since you could see the marks from the re-welding



One of my better wraps but still a PITA



Did up the intake pipe and installed a vaccum port for the crank case catch can. Still needs a bit of adjustment but it all went together well enough for display purposes


first tow for the 460

putting everything back together for the Auto Show next week.
Finally, after a decade, finally painted the alternator and now the car looks like a million bukz



was going to get a custom alum or titanium intake pipe fabd up but went in a different direction that was more pocket friendly. I should have painted that MAF pipe ages ago





Removed my torn header wrap and to my surprise (nah I knew there were gunna be some issues) there were some pin holes in the welds on the manifold. SO I took it to a fab shop to have it repaired. These welds looked so much better than the original welds done by a different fab shop. Should be able to last a while longer now. Its currently getting a layer of Cerakote and then will be wrapped again because its still ugly as all hell

Yeah for most things I can do that but when it comes to racing, best to always be safe and get a full.

*Edit...although, Im not sure if a dolly will work these days with my sideskirts and front lip.


Im an asian mom now. Bow to me.

$50 for a 2day rental say 5-8 times a year or $6000 for a used alum trailer...

Daniels review of his 5th gen kept me away
It definitely wins in the looks department...so there is that lol

Its 6500, its basically a nicer 4th Gen V8 4Runner.
If it werent for the 2200lb Uhaul Trailers a 5000lb hauler would have sufficed. Tow capacity above that seems to be harder to come buy in recent year midsize SUVs. Everything is V6 and 5000lb limit now

Took the time to recheck leak down results with a steady air supply (previously I was filling a tank, taking it outside and doing one test then taking it back to refill lol)

Idk what I did previously but now my numbers are pretty decent (on 3&4 which were the problem cylinders).
Cyl1-12%loss
Cyl2-12%loss
Cyl3-20%loss
Cyl4-05%loss

As for the lean running and the valve tapping Ill have to check my fueling to figure out if my injectors are clogged or filter is dirty and then recheck valve clearances. I may be okay!

I took a bit of time to look over suspension and brake conditions and finished up installing new rotor hardware and noticed another small detail of damage my rotors underwent from their previous failure, im not sure how common this is. Still looking at a reasonable replacement.



also picked up a new car. one that will aid in recovering the celica if it continues to break down like it has the past few months

Glenn and Arkadiusz both build NA Red Tops. Glenn builds more black tops these days but Arkadiusz builds a lot of 3rd and 4th gen 3sge for cup cars in his country. Glenns products are pretty wildly used. Most NA builds will be so damn expensive when you can go turbo or sc and still retain a pretty decent linear power delivery.

The one thing im not a fan of when coming into the Red Top community was the secrecy and people not wanting to share any info (like Mandalay). He made it seem as if it was this big unattainable feat he accomplished and he would break the mold of his creation so nobody could follow in his footsteps. Maybe is he just shared details of his build maybe people wouldnt have complained as much