Jan 7, 2007 - 6:46 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515956 · Replies: 11 · Views: 2,749 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
building your own box? go sealed! sealed gives you a punchier base (better for just playing loud music) the ported box gives you the oportunity to drop lower base mor effectively but get it wrong and you will be driven mad by port noice (the air being rammed out of the prot will whistle a bit like grandad from the simpsons with a megaphone!) What are you? a bass junkie or do you just want loud music? loud music will suit one single 12inch set up to pick up from 50hz. this is the way I have mine done and it suits most types of music (as I have no taste I like a little bit of everything music wise) at most volume levels. also to answer the original question, if your not going all out, dont bother with the type X! the Type R is brilliant. (again its what I use) |
Jan 7, 2007 - 6:34 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515953 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,536 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
by the tme youve gone to all the trouble of dissasembling the dash to get the guages out you may as well spend the next five mins putting them in and putting the dash back together. shouldnt have any effect on the car as all the gauges do is display information, only thing is allow speedo cable to spin free unless its electrical connection. personaly i wouldnt drive it any where with out a speedo or rev counter, far too likley to get nicked in the UK, plus over here I think theres probably a law against it as you could be deemed to be driving without due care and attention or something else they could pin on you. |
Jan 7, 2007 - 6:21 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515951 · Replies: 5 · Views: 1,834 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
from memory its the same size as the socket used to remove the two blots in the armrest, which again from memory is a 14mm socket. |
Jan 7, 2007 - 6:16 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515950 · Replies: 9 · Views: 2,675 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
anyone thought of asking a trimmer? the door card insert you are talking about is one piece and does not come out, true the door card comes in two parts but as previously stated the second part is mearly the plastic part that coveres the speacker and holds the switches etc. trimers have some little voodoo magic trics they do to make it look so ggod, not being one I can only tell you that the cut and pray jobs always look terrible, having tried years ago with a friends car, it look fantastic at first but every day use soon took its toll and the edges peel away! who is it on here that has put the evo seats in his car with door cards to match (looks awsome btw!) maybe ask him/his trimmer to let you in on the trade secret? |
Jan 7, 2007 - 5:50 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515945 · Replies: 10 · Views: 2,949 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
1: Q-bit Subcode Q-bit subcode is the term for the information on a compact disc that holds the track number, track length, and time in track. Every music disc has special subcode control information encoded along with the music information. The Q- bit subcode has several modes, which distinguish the type of information the code carries. When you play a CD you cannot access the subcode information directly. All CD players have circuitry that can decode and use subcode data. Some of this Q -bit subcode is displayed on the front display of a CD player. This information, such as time in track and track number, is useful for determining what song is being played, and how far along the song is. There is other useful information in the Q-bit subcode, such as absolute time in the CD. (from http://www.ee.washington.edu/conselec/A95/...oject.htm#qcode ) hope thats the right sort of thing. 8: RM Only thing I can think of is a remote of some discription, however these normaly have RMT? any way im not much help here. Any one know what it came in as standard as it looks like OME. Might be a clue to finding out what all the bits do, probably from one of thos nutty little japanese vans. |
Jan 7, 2007 - 5:27 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515938 · Replies: 12 · Views: 2,550 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
your a star, thanks for that... ill take a look in day light. |
Jan 7, 2007 - 5:26 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515937 · Replies: 3 · Views: 1,496 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
almost cirtainly an earth problem most car electrical issues are! Make sure you have bare metal showing when you connect the earth to the car. Also check the remote lead from the head unit, the red led from the amp may spike when 12v is put across it but without the remote lead singnal from the Head Unit to the amp's built in relay it wont come on. Hope this helps. |
Jan 7, 2007 - 5:18 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515935 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,195 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
QUOTE(zCelicaDude @ Jan 7, 2007 - 1:36 AM) [snapback]515731[/snapback] when you think about audio, your soundstage should be at the front of the car. i.e. if you close your eyes while sitting anywhere in the car, you should be able to visilise in your head that the musics being played from the front... so you should have good speakers at the front, with a tweeter and lower quality or even the same speakers but just gained down in the back, that way the music will always sound like it is comming from the front... thats why I dont go with 6x9s, u loose that effect. Ill second that. also my taste runs a little more on the subtle street sleeper train of thought and when ever I do anything i feel it has to look like it came out of the factory like it. (dull maybe but hey) and the 6x9's attract a little to much unwanted attention from those little minded people who think that what you have rightly belongs to them. ![]() |
Jan 7, 2007 - 5:08 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515934 · Replies: 22 · Views: 3,797 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
QUOTE(cnelson @ Jan 7, 2007 - 9:54 PM) [snapback]515928[/snapback] yeah i'm looking for a Nav System without a screen something that i put an AUX to my in dash player. Is it possible to find this? I went to best buy and circut city no luck there all screens and way to exspenive. I'm going to take a video in a minute or so and i'll post it on here. also how'd you get the ps2 controllers in the arm reats?! i was thinking about hooking my old N64 to the screen. but if i got a nav system is there anyway to add another AUX in and out cause right now the player only has one AUX. -cnelson. ![]() All possible! Which head unit do you have? the PS2 (the redesigned slim line one) runs off 8.5 V and there is a Ciggy lighter powersupply you can get (ebay £7!) that you can butcher and connect to the socets on the back. I will take some pics tomorrow to show you. With regards to the controller sockets in the arm rest, you need to buy a multi tap (99p from ebay) and then extend the cable (you could use telephone cable for this) It will require a bit of butchery of the multi tap, and a custom plate for the arm rest, again pics to follow. Alpine make an AV splitter for their screens (as thats what ive got thats all ive looked into - but i would asume most brands have something similar) there are a couple of universal switch boxes available out there that will allow you to switch between AV inputs, some of the more advanced will allow you to split different devces to different screens - ps2 for the kids in the back and DVD for the wife up front (keeps her from telling you your lost!) does your headunit have a seperate input for sat nav? |
Jan 7, 2007 - 4:57 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515930 · Replies: 18 · Views: 4,182 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
was any modification required to get the Evo 8 seats in?? Looks Awsome BTW! |
Jan 7, 2007 - 4:50 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515925 · Replies: 22 · Views: 3,797 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
which one did you go for in the end? I have just fitted (just because I could before any one gets on their high horse saying whats the piont!) An Alpine 6.5 double din screen and dvd player, attached to which is a PS2 in the glove box with the controler sockes in the arm rest, rear reversing camera (tinted windows from previous owner made it hard to see when reversing) phone kit through the stereo, 4ch and mono block running all speakers rather than the built in amp and a 12" alpine type R sub. Would be interested to see you instal when complete, its awsome having a screen in the car! only thing missing is the sat nav! but now im flat broke! lol If you need any help fitiing anything give me a shout, as ive done everything my self. Oh and touch screen rocks, the angle of the screen in the dash doesnt seem to show the finger marks... which are easily wiped clean. double dins in the celica can be bolted in... this makes them a no go for smash and grab theives who would need to sit there and know how to dismantle the relevant bits of dash to get at the bolts. ![]() |
Jan 7, 2007 - 4:39 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515921 · Replies: 4 · Views: 1,591 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
I ran new cables from the head unit to the cross over for the speakers then ran both the tweeter and main driver cables through the boor flex pipe and into the door, then just connected to each component. works a treate. pm me if you need any questions answered on this topic. Also when poking cables through the door pipe, use a lenght of 8 gauge power cable as its a little sturdier going from the door side into the car. also to make life easier for you pop the rubber end out of the door as it enables you to compress the rubber pipe giving you a shorter distance to run the cable. you will also find it usefull to remove the kick well plastics to reveal the hole in the side of the car where the cable will be coming from. once the power cable is poking out of both sides, get some electrical tape and put both speaker cable ends (tweeter and driver) together and tape to the door end of the power cable, now feed carefully through the door, trying not to apply to much presure thus to break the leccy tape link. |
Jan 7, 2007 - 4:31 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515919 · Replies: 4 · Views: 1,978 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
I have just replaced everything in my car with 6.5" Alpine type R speakers. the backs were a straight fwd swap and the fronts were components and came with wickid universal adapterplates that allowed me to scrw it straight in, no mucking arund with MDF! lol ![]() |
Jan 7, 2007 - 4:17 PM | Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #515915 · Replies: 12 · Views: 2,550 |
Enthusiast Joined Jan 7, '07 From Surrey UK Currently Offline ![]() |
hi guys, Ive had a '99 Celica for about 3 months and absolulty love it, having said that ive managed to blow the fuse for the interior lights... ![]() |
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