6G Celicas Forums

Timing: I did the timing when it was rebuilt, by lining up the timing mark on the cam with the notch on the flywheel pulley (0 Deg BTDC). The cam gear had a dot that needed to be at the top if I remember correctly.

Starter: The starter was not a problem before so I don't think that is the problem. To detail this a little more when I engage the starter it kicks and turns the E/G ever so slightly and then quits, which drains nearly all the power out of the car (lights almost go out in the dash). This makes me think there is too much resistance to crank. This problem goes away if I jump the car, but still not starting.

Ignition Timing: I did a rough ignition timing by lining up the distributor with the number one plug when the crank was at 10 degrees BTDC (as recommended). Can't get it to run and adjust. No on the new cap and rotor but I checked with a multimeter and they are in spec on the resistances.

Compression: Brand new pistons and rings (I mean zero miles), so compression isn't the starting issue.

Oil in Filter: I don't know if it has a check valve to prevent back flow but I do know that it is usually full of oil when I do oil changes. This makes me worry that there was no oil pressure since it was empty after I cranked it.

Any ideas to check for oil pressure, besides the dummy light?

OK so I just put in a rebuilt motor for my 7A-FE and I've not been able to start it.

When I first tried, it started right up but ran like crap (maybe ignition timing?) so I shut it off after 5-10seconds. I adjusted ignition timing again, by rotating the distributor, and it didn't sound much better but this time it died on me.

After adjusting it a third time it would crank but would not start. I checked and there is fuel on the plugs, but I couldn't get the plugs to spark. So I replaced the plugs and wires and came back. It still cranked but would not start. I don't have the alternator hooked up yet and this is a fresh battery but after a few tries the starter would not turn anymore, it engages but is too weak (with new battery). If I jump the battery with my other car the starter will once again turn, but not start.

I also tried rotating the engine with a breaker bar on the crank and it is noticeable harder to turn than when I put the E/G in the car.

Finally, I pulled the oil filter off and there was little if any oil at all in it. I'm not sure if this is normal considering the car has not ran for more than a few seconds but I thought it would fill up before anything else.

So...is this motor on the verge of siezing or should I take it to a shop to figure out why it will not start?

I worked for the Toyota L4 assembly plant in KY and we used to test some engines with 20W-50 (they were export engines). Pretty much all the parts were the same, the oil pump was slightly different. Unless its a very small leak you're not going to gain anything. In fact it could mess up your oil rings (they were different on the exports), I wouldn't mess with it.

Oil pan leaks are way easy to fix BTW. Even if you don't want to remove it, that kind of leak is a perfect candidate for sillicone RTV patching.

I just did mine and I don't remember having any problem but anyway ... I recommend a couple of things:

1. PB Blaster, like WD40 but better. Make sure you let it soak for a couple of hours for maximum effect. Also this is not a left handed bolt otherwise the engine would loosen it when running.

2. Tap the bolt head with a hammer (then repeat soaking ideally may need a few stages of this). This should loosen up the rust that is apparently holding it. Do nice 12" throws in the hammer, don't go nuts or you'll end up worse.

3. IMPACT wrench. If this is not available be creative and recreate the impact effect yourself: maybe a long pipe on a breaker bar and a hammer. Have someone put a lot of torque on your pipe/bar combo and then goto town on it with a hammer while it is pre loaded. Remember: without the impact hammer you are going to be turning the engine when loosening the bolt. You're going to have to keep it from turning, hopefully you can jam something in the pulley but be careful where because you'll end up breaking something flimsy.

4. You WILL need the pulley puller (Autozone or Advance Auto will loan you one, use metric bolts). After you get it off make life easier and sand down the nose of the crank so it will go on easier (it's hard to line up that keyway so don't force it and mess it up).

5. Make sure you don't overtorque it when you put it back together, so you or the next guy doesn't have this problem again.

OK so I started my rebuild project a month ago, working on it after classes and work and I need some help on two harness I cannot place.

The car is a '95 Celica ST (California)

Both wires are on the intake side.

1. On the same wire cluster as the downstream 02 sensor, and a lead to a vacuum control switch.
Two prong connector (black/red and brown wires).

2. Out of the injector wire harness (the solid black plastic box under the intake).
One prong connector (blue-ish wire).


Can anyone help me with what these goto? I've been staring down there for an hour or so and cannot see any clips that need a harness.

Also if anyone knows where I can find some good information on the vacuum line routing (EGR, EVAP...etc.) and wire routing could you please post it?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Could anyone get me access the BGB? I'm doing a rebuild and it would probably be helpful. E-mail jhensley@purdue.edu if you can help me out.

I've had no succes with parts locally. I am considering buying the parts from "22re.com" or "perfectengine.com" ... I hate buying stuff like this online because it seems like your stuck with it if it's not right. Just wondering if anyone else might have gone down this road recently.

-Jonathan

Howdy all,

I am in the process of rebuilding a '95 Celica ST 7AFE motor and I would like to know the best place to get parts. The parts I need include:

Piston Set w/pins and rings (~20 thousandths oversize for 3.190" bore)
Rod bearings (STD)
Main bearings (10 thousandths oversize)
Oil pump (with the sensor port)
Gasket kit
TTY head bolts
Thrust inserts
And last and probably least: Core plugs.

I'm having the block and crank cleaned up right now and want to order parts as soon as I get my final measurements. I'm looking for "plain-jane" parts (no ultra high strength stoker kits) ... I'll probably go back to work on my 5th gen when I get out of college so I just need something to get me through a year or two.

-Jonathan