6G Celicas Forums

I have an ST Coupe and someone got this spoiler for me thinking it would fit my car. Later I got a trunk lid with spoiler for my Celica. This spoiler has the outer two posts on a slight angle to fit the curved edges of the hatchback. I don't know all the models this might fit, but I included a link to lots of pictures and I can measure anything needed. I have seen this exact spoiler on a hatchback. I don't know if it was a GT or not. I just want to be clear with the buyer because when I bought it the seller said it was for the trunk of a coupe when it obviously was not.

The condition is good. It's all black. The underside shines up to a really nice gloss. The top surface had oxidation and some water spots and a few scratches. I went over it with cleaner, polish and wax quickly and it shines up and the imperfections only show up when you look really close.
HERE ARE A BUNCH OF PICS

At this point I am willing to adapt something from another car or whatever. Mine was hit in the back and I was able to get enough $$ to Cover the accident damage plus get the front bumper, Fender, door Qtr Panel fixed in addition to the damage from the accident. I will have to supply a taillight and fender and I thought at the time why not add a spoiler since the other paint and body work are being done.
I'll take a look around the junk yard at the same time I am getting my other items (I hope) Ill take a measuring tape. I think I can adapt something that is close since I need a new trunk or to get body work done on mine.

I have a 94 ST Coupe and am also looking for a spoiler. I don't care for the spoilers that sit up really high off the trunk. I would prefer something lower and rather plain that can be painted body color. Are there generic aftermarket spoilers that fit on a coupe?
I keep seeing this one at the parts stores online, but can't get any details about it:
http://www.autopartsfair.com/toyota-exteri...item-28024.html
I don't know if the picture is really the actual spoiler and the angle makes it hard to know what it really looks like.

I like the JasonX Spoiler, but would prefer it to be half as tall.

Following up here with the (hopefully permanent) solution to my issues from the past two months. If I had a dollar for every thread that was abandoned, I could retire, so I wanted to report back. When we left off, I had purchased a Celica at auction with unknown repair history. I had just finished a head gasket repair and was running the car for the first time and was getting foam and steam pouring out of the overflow and constant bubbles from the overflow with the cap on. (new cap I should add) It was not overheating per the gauge or an IR thermometer.

Turns out there were several things wrong that I overlooked. When I did the repairs, I was only replacing as few things as possible to keep costs down. Someone told me "I'm still going with leaking combustion into cooling systme based on your video, unless the radiator cap is shot and not holding any pressure." I had replaced the cap, so I thought this could not be the issue but it was..

Here's how it went down:
I ordered an Aisin complete water pump with housing, was shipped the wrong part, sent back, received correct one and installed on the car. I read up on my after market thermostat and discovered that there was a bleed "notch" that needed to be installed in the 12oclock position. This was in place of the OEM Thermostat bleeder jiggle valve. With the new pump, Immediately the system started acting close to normal. The air bled out in large bubbles and the interior was blowing warm air almost as soon as I opened the heater valve. (before when I was getting all the foam, it took a long time to get heat in the interior) Once the thermostat opened, the water began to circulate in the radiator and all appeared normal. I put on the cap and went for a test drive to my neighbor that is a mechanic. All appeared normal except when I revved up the engine, I could see the coolant rise in the overflow and spill out a little bit. What the heck? At the same time, the upper and lower hoses collapsed a little bit and my mechanic neighbor said "you need new hoses" So I went to Autozone and got some new hoses that the counter guy said were "already cut-to-fit your specific car" brought them home and they didn't fit at all and even with cutting would have been a horrible fit. Returned those and bought new from dealer, but...the hoses from the dealer new were just as soft as my old hoses. Going with the neighbor mechanic's theory that soft hoses were my problem, I was back to square one. So I started to look at things more carefully with the voice in the back of my head saying "check the cap..." Upon careful examination I noticed that the seating surface inside the neck of the radiator was worn and corroded and the cap's inner sealing plunger was not sealing. see picture here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/mjzraz/Celica/...880560663752418

I ordered a new Koyo plastic/aluminum radiator and it came this week. I installed it, hooked up the new hoses, bled the air and took it for a test drive. All appeared well. My daughter has been driving it the past few days without a problem. I will probably drive it to work a longer distance a few times before I let her have it full time. I am wondering if I should get a Toyota cap to replace my aftermarket (gates or stant) one. When installing it, I barely had to compress the spring to lock it in place. It appears to hold pressure. She just stopped by and I checked the overflow level and the level was fine and the hoses were firm as if they were under slight pressure.
So far so good - Thanks for the advice!
Mike

No. No Oil.
I thought exactly the same thing and I was convinced of it myself so I
went to NAPA and bought a $55 test kit with the blue fluid and a clear
tube that goes into the radiator neck and you pump the bulb and it
draws air up while the car is running and it passes through the blue
fluid, turning it yellow if combustion byproducts are present. I
sniffed for 2 minutes on the radiator and tried the reservoir. Still
as blue as it started. Not convinced, I took it around to the exhaust
tailpipe and sniffed a few times and it turned yellow right away.

I am replacing the water pump next. It is leaking and some have suggested it could be drawing in air.

Should I go with Genuine toyota or aftermarket? It's confusing to shop
for since There are listings for the pump only or the pump and the
housing. I am leaning toward pump+housing.
rockauto has a AISIN Part # 1610019305 pump+housing for @ $64:
http://67.129.153.73/CGv2Production/Pictur...C1610019305.jpg

I tried partsbin.com and the descriptions are confusing making it hard
to be confident in what I am getting. I called a local parts store and
they said they didn't even sell the housing nor could they get it.

Mike

I created 2 videos and uploaded them to hopefully describe my problem better.

This one is just the main symptoms (2 min long)
http://www.jumpcut.com/view/?id=0D1C08125E...B4F000423CF382E

This one is the longer video with more information: (7 Minutes long)
http://www.jumpcut.com/view?id=7B4BD1945EF...F1B000423CEF682

Here's a video of the basic problem. I have more to upload, but it takes a little time to edit.

http://www.jumpcut.com/view?id=0D1C08125ED...B4F000423CF382E

I don't see any place to bleed it or how. I do feel like that might be the problem.

I can't figure out why I am still getting steam and foam out of the overflow but it's not overheating according to the gauge and a thermometer.
After working on this some more today, here is where I am. I flushed the cooling system with a coolant flush and drained and filled it twice with water to clear it out. I pushed water with the garden hose pressure through the top radiator hose and the heater core hoses with the thermostat removed until everything was clear. I reinstalled the thermostat and hoses and filled with antifreeze/water mix.

The book says 6 quarts total coolant. I was only able to get 3 quarts and it appeared full. I ran it to see if when the thermostat opened, the level would drop and I could add more. The problem is it really didn't let me put much more in and it keeps filling the overflow with bubbles and foam, then steam comes out of the overflow and it sounds like it is gurgling and boiling. If I run with the radiator cap off, it will spurt bubbles and coolant out the top of the radiator. Additionally the lower radiator hose that comes from the thermostat housing looks looks like it is vibrating as if the flow of water through it is not constant, but choppy. The thermostat is new and I tested it to make sure it opened fine in a pot of water on the stove.

Fearing the worst, that I somehow didn't fix the head gasket that was recently replaced, I bought a block combustion leak detector at Napa and tested the gasses at the radiator. It has a blue liquid that you draw up air through from the radiator and if there is combustion gas it will turn yellow. I tested and it did not turn yellow at all. I verified the test fluid was working, by inhaling some exhaust from the tailpipe and it turned yellow. So I believe I do not have a head gasket leak.

When I did the head gasket, the water pump showed no signs of leaking and I looked at the pump fins through the outlet pipe and also spun it and it felt fine. I always thought they should be replaced when they are noisy, leaky or had play in the shaft/pulley. Mine appeared fine based on that.

I have no idea what to try next. I feel like there might be a blockage or air in the system, but know of no way to clear or test for it.

Bitter - Point taken, I never even thought of that. I would hope that the valve cover gaskets and seals would be the same, but if not, that would be a hassle. D*mn! I would hope to never need major internals, but...

I have decided at least to pull apart the top end and see what I have with my own eyes instead of guessing what it looks like based on other people's opinions of what's wrong with my engine. I know it was overheated, I know I have low compression on 3 cyl, and I know I have exhaust gases and oil in the coolant. Not a great place to start from, but I want to see what I have and go from there.

Thanks, where did you get the replacement 7a? You bring up a good point - if I get another engine I am going to have the old one laying around - Wife won't be happy about that - where can you take a "bad" engine to get rid of?

Thanks for the input - is 15 less Horsepower that big a deal that it's worth spending the extra money? I guess that's what I am struggling with. The car is going to be a daily driver commute car where fuel economy is more important than performance. The bottom line is I am trying to save money, but want a drivable car. The 5AFE was in the Corolla - I wonder the weight difference between the Corolla and Celica? (Here we go - I researched the weights - Corolla 2315lbs, Celica 2400lbs) Since my daughter's old car is a diesel 85 Mercedes automatic, I think even 100 Horsepower in a much lighter car should be way faster in comparison.

Jason - I wish I could find someone upgrading or a wrecked car, but 7afe is just not readily available.

As far as doing the swap, based on the info from several importers and a 6G forum poster that has done the swap of a 4afe, there is really no difference in the long blocks. It should cost nothing to put either engine in place of the 7afe and no additional parts required. This is from the post I referenced:



Two guys I spoke with were surprised that even that was necessary.

The lousy thing is I bought the car at auction for $1500 as is - I was able to start and run the car, but it would start and run ok for 20 min before it overheated and started stalling out. I just never ran it that long until AFTER we bought it.

I am looking for the Pros/Cons of replacing engine with 4afe vs 5afe vs 7afe.

I have a 1994 Celica ST with the 1.8 7AFE Engine and auto trans. I am replacing the engine with a used engine due to Bearings, cracked Head, etc. Economy and reliability are the primary concerns. While more power is always fun, performance is secondary in this situation because we are already into the car with too much money and as it is, I need to perform all the labor myself.
From what I have researched any of the three long blocks can be swapped with each other. Here is a great post from last year about a 4AFE swap for a 7AFE

The specs that I have been able to look up are:
7AFE - 1.8 - HP:115@5600 - Torque:115@2800 Compression:9.5:1 (more torque and at a lower rpm)
4AFE - 1.6 - HP:115@6000 - Torque:109@4800 Compression:9.5:1 (early 4afe were 102HP)
5AFE - 1.5 - HP:100@5600 - Torque:102@4400 Compression:9.8:1

Cost:
7AFE - $650+$100 Shipping = $750
4AFE - $550+$145 Shipping = $695
5AFE - as low as $250+$180 shipping = $430 up to $500+$145 Shipping = $645

At the lowest cost, the 5AFE is $320 cheaper than the 7AFE. That's a huge difference. Considering that I still need a new water pump, timing belt, radiator and exhaust manifold, I can use the savings. I just don't want to be looking back 6 months from now and thinking why did I cheap out and not get the 7AFE. Some of the importers are pushing the 5AFE and certainly have cheap prices. The 7AFE engines are also not as readily available and thus another reason they are more expensive. Will the performance decrease be that bad? The car is an automatic. Any advise would be appreciated. I need to get moving to have this car ready when my daughter starts college in 4 Weeks.
Thanks, Mike