6G Celicas Forums

just thought id say hi.

im from the manchester area!!!

my sensors are firmly on tried to get one off the other day and found it almost impossible.

im sure i read somewhere that the airbag flashing means voltage drop or no codes. there was no more info an it just left me confused

i really need to get this sorted as my car is off the road while ive no MOT

im having the same problem as this....

I've tried jumping E1 to Tc and removing the shorting pin while the key is in the IGN position. However, the orange ABS light stays on and the red airbag light then flashes constantly.

why wont it just give me the codes as to whats up with the abs?

really need to get this sorted as its failed its MOT because the abs light is on.

all 97celica's infos been priceless to me its helped loads but with the indicators i got im just not happy with the fitments this was the best i could get them following what 97celica said!





I just cant get them to sit futher back or more flush because of how wide they are

looks pretty good with the rubber on ill get some pics soon.

i think with the indicators i need gt4 indicators which dont seem to be sold anywhere in the uk (clear ones)

The metal side pieces your talking about im guessing, are the pieces that attach the stock bumpers to the front and rear fenders? If so the yes except 1 because a couple of the bolts snapped when takin the stock off so just put some bolts through on that side and didnt have much problem doing that.

Heres some pics on how mines lineing up with the lights when i leave the gap for the stock rubber trim.





The rubber trim on the high beams does hide this gap but only just.

Im just not feeling 100% happy with that but may have to be.

I got the heat gun from work now so gonna have a shot with that in the morning.

thanx for that info thats a big help back to work to get the heat gun me thinks.
back bumper i didnt have much issue with. The side skirts were all twisted! 1 side isnt to bad the other in the pic jus aint gettin close to the fender hopefully the heat gun should work.
I think its just a really crap copy of an invader kit.
However still with the indicator issue i noticed marks where i need to cut for the slit but they are to wide apart compared to the original an like i said ealier my indicator just seems way wider.
Maybe ill just have to attack that with a heat gun an hacksaw to make it wider.
The other thing with the front is i just can quite get it sweet enuff to light s as much as id like.

When youve installed these kits have you kept with the rubber seal that sits between the bumper and hood?
keeping this gap for the rubber seal is why i can quite get it flush with the lights i think.

heres some pics

Im part way through installing an invader kit and now ive got to installing the front indicators they seem far to wide to fit. Has anyone done this before that can help? or can anyone post some head on pics of their kit help ill post a pic later to show what im up against. Im just really trying to avoid cutting the kit if i can help it. Its already been a bit of a nightmare installing it with it being all twisted an stuff. Im definatley paying for not paying! Guess i should have spent more money

Heres a quick pic of mine im working on..

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x124/Re...07/DSC00376.jpg


ignore the rope coming out of it thats so i can get the speaker out whilst im still working on it coz its flush moutnted.

im thinking of havin 2 12's either side where you can still see the wooden floor. at the minute thats jus 1 15"

how would you take payment? you got paypal?

Are these hinges bolted on or are they welded on too? Will you ship to the uk if i pay the extra?

^^^NICE. very clean!

^^^ cali's right ^^^

you would use mdf for your top but you use fiberglass to get maximum airspace from the well plus it would sit real snug in your car making it sound better too.

u need to make a fiberglass box to sit in the wheel well for this^^^^

theres a few tutorials for this kind of setup jus put a search into google using the words fiberglass wheel sub

its not that loud outside the car suprisingly.

Heres a quick pic of mine im working on..




ignore the rope coming out of it thats so i can get the speaker out whilst im still working on it coz its flush moutnted.

im thinking of havin 2 12's either side where you can still see the wooden floor. at the minute thats jus 1 15

i was just thinkin to get a smoother pull without the rubbing an puttin the solenoid under less stress making it work longer before it breaks

i had a look for your post when you did this mod but cant seem to find it could you post the link if u know it

"there u go,well i would use this as a diaily driver to schoola nd bac,so i would open teh door about 10 times a day,is that a problem?"

from what creis says it will be.

im the same i use mine to work and back and when i go see my friends

thanx creis

just read your other post too in the shaved door thread an mines a daily driver and i kinda guess about the wearing away part with putting it there. was hoping someone might have come up with a better position

do you have any pics or could you take any. i really wanna try figure this out so it works as smooth as possible and any pics would help me loads. im starting to think about using a small pulley to stop it rubbing or something.

can u post the how to's?

if what your refering to as the cylinder is the solanoid then this works with elctromagnets which pulls a cylindrical piece into itself when the electicity passes through it (when you press the button on the remote). this in turn does what your handle does. when the electricity stops the cylindrical centre piece pops back out agen on a spring ready to go agen.

when your door is unlocked by the solanoid a spring (door popper) pushes your door open

thats the best explanation i can give without pics.

the internal and external handles hook up seperatly (2 different ways) so u hook up the kit to the external way so u can shave the handle and keep the internal handle working. but u can also install the kit in a way that u could still use all handles anyway.

if your battery dies.... aslong as you have not de-locked your trunk you could climb through in to your car to pop the hood to replace the battery

read all my post!

u still use your original internal handles to get out unless you wanna shave these too then yes you will have to use the remote to get out!

with the kit i mentioned an most kits you get an overide button that u can hide outside your car. TVR's have them under the wing mirror!

or you can put them in your trunk asl ong as you dont de-lock this you can still open it an press the button an this way if you loose battery power you can still climb in your car to pop the hood to charge you battery.

otherwise you'll just have to smash the window to gain entry
try explaining that to cop that catches you in the act.....

The kit for sale on ebay looks similar to the one im trying to install.

http://www.autothisworld.com/Protocol/sear...=protocol+shave <--- this is mine.

this cost me £150

hopefully im gonna get mine on soon so ill put up a how to when im done.

im just tryin to figure the best place to put the solanoid . so far i think im gonna go with puttin it inside the door straight under the latch.