6G Celicas Forums

Wham, my passengers side front left arm went today in my 1994 GT4 Import, cheapiest i can find it for is £175 quid.

I have a fair few rattles and bangs as im driving about, which suggests im not going to win by just replacing this part as i can feel it all hitting me at one.

My question is, is there anyone that has had enough of all the banging and knocking, and replaced all of the parts at once.

No 1 arm
No 2 arm
Fig 8
ARB
etc

Im after a rough price and the best place to get it from.

Also is the superstrut suspension only on the front!? God forbid they put this sh*t on the back too.

Hey!

Recently got a stage 3 clutch and light flywheel fitted to my car, and even though its spring loaded, the engagement is so harsh its ripped my flexi pipe on my exhaust!! Now i know how to use the clutch properlly its ok but when i first had it i rode the clutch a bit which caused the car to violently shake. The clutch is awesome tho, and flywheel makes a difference too.

Basically my question is, i have a 3" HKS backbox, my midpipe and downpipe are both standard 2.5" toyota parts, the HKS midpipe alone is £350 quid which is bloody mental price as i could probably get a full system for that.

Should i spend 350 quid on the HKS mid pipe, making my entire system HKS or just get something else like a blitz nur spec, is HKS really that good?

My HKS system is the Silent Hi-Power one, and is a bit quiet to be honest even with the baffle out, so i was looking at getting a new system anyway.

Wouldnt happen to sound like this would it?

http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/da...nt=SV_A0014.flv

This noise is going to cost me £650 shortly, its fu**ing great news if anyone else gets this noise.

Found out after this i have no ABS, the hardcore jap nutjob i purchased my car from removed it.

Hence flatspotting all my tires.

Found out later on ive snapped my break pad and warped my front disk too!!

Lesson leant, next time stear round em

P.s. Im not the problem here, if you had a choice of entering a Motorway at 40 or 110 what would you choose? you can break from 110 down to 40 alot quicker than you can get from 40 to 80 which youll need to do to stop some unsuspecting person hitting you straight in the ass because you didnt wanna use too much petrol by hitting at least 70 on the sliproad.

There the type of people that should be "frowned apon"

Drives me fu**ing nuts that theres people out there who can barely see and have a reaction speed of 5 seconds that have cheaper insurance than me....... Thinking about it illd be happy to Flatten the front of my car just to make a point.

This is the best one i got right now, need to do some arty stuff soon, alot of cosmetics to repair and sort out.

I own a GT4, and that black car is my IDOL, its fu*king perfect!

Thats some serious polishing too!

Had the suspension and breaks checked, everything was fine.

Checked the tires and they where chewed to bits and flatspotted.

Job Jobbed, thanks guys.

tell me about it, im never speeding like that again

ive just come back from another run trying to find out what the problem is.

Its very hard to tell because my ride is so HARD that you feel any bump in the road

seems to only happen when doing more than 70, but i still cannot tell if its the road or my car normally!

i hope to god i have flatspotted my tires, and that it isnt a problem with the axel, im going to get it professionally look at tomorrow

can you really bend your axel from breaking like that?

also dont bearings make a squeeking noise?

Hello, someone pulled out on me the other day and i had to break VERY HARD, snaking everywhere, had the backend right out at one point but i didnt hit anything

now

at speed 40+ theres a knocking noise comming from my car, and i can feel it on my arse and on the wheel

ive had a look at the break pads, has anyone else got any ideas? the knocking gets faster with speed

isnt the fuel tank under there? how dangerous is that!

Hello! me again

Im having a hard time trying to figure out what colours to paint my GT4 raiser blocks without it looking unprofessional or tacky.

Here is how my car looks at the moment:


You cant see the raiser blocks very well, but there current colour is a off black / plasticy black, not nice at all.

Im getting the car booked into the body shop to have a bit of tidying up done, and im going to get this done too.

IMO any car with an exterior colour scheme of more than 3 colours looks unprofessional, my current colours are Black (car) Red (calipers) and Bronze (wheels) (excluding the lights and the side repeaters im sorting these out)



I cant choose between:

Bronze background / Black Text
Black Background / White Text ( i know white is a 4th colour, i might get white celica vinyl stickers for the calipers too)

Black Background / Red Text
Black Background / Bronze text

What would you have?

probably the best thing i can think of, is buying one of these:

http://www.hamiltonclassic.co.uk/ProductIn...ABatteryBox.htm

and securing the battery box into the car and not the battery

probably make life easier, + if youve got anything metal in the boot (trunk), your not going to go nuclear while your driving

Its your worst nightmare, but i might be getting somewhere with that one, so we will need to see how it goes. Its had alot of new parts since i last spoke, including a new steering column! Dunno if thats a engine out job or not, but either way im happy as its not cosing me over a grand to fix!

Its worth it tho, illd leave my car in the garage for 3 weeks every month if it meant i could drive it for one week, cant get enough of it.

thanks for the comments, its not all fun and games tho owning a car like this, GOD its expensive

What a stupid place for a battery toyota.

I need to move it to the boot or swap it with the existing filter, illd prefer to do this:



Question is, how do i relocate it? I know i might need extra very think wire, but how do i hard mount the battery in the new location?

Heres what i want to achieve in the end:

i had this issue, but i was also recieving an error code from the ecu, ended up being the fuel defender cutting the fuel due to excessive turbo pressure,BUT in actual fact it was a faulty sensor

you scare the hell out of me!

48,000 in my 1994 gt4

Yeap your right, this is my first turbo car, still getting used to the differences as ive had 6 n/a cars and then this.

lol i get the general picture, there isnt a bolt so it looks like i gotta live with it untill i can get a new one

i didnt buy the exhaust it came with it

thanks for your advice people

Hello, i have the item mentioned in the title and its really quiet untill warm, too quiet.

People have mentioned that there should be a screw that i need to undo if i want to pull out the silencer, but i have shone a tourch down the exhaust and cannot see it.

Other people have suggested using a crowbar to rip out the baffle!

Which one is the truth?

Hello,

I havent owned my 1994 GT4 WRC long enough to do what i want to it yet, but heres how i brought it:


Thats funky SR in the picture too:



After a Wax:






Dyno:


List of stuff to be done:
1. Maintenance, few repairs that need to be done, covered by warranty
2. Body shop: Few paintwork and bodywork repairs + dents
3. Induction System: Remove anti-lag system, buy breather filters for all locations and go closed induction with feed right through the front grill
4. Interior: Custom designed dial kit, dash repair from previous gauges being screwed in + boost pressure, oil temprature, oil pressure, water temprature, boost controller relocation (need ideas, cant mount on pillar because of rollcage.
5...... well 300+ bhp would be nice

Current mods:
6 point rollcage
Coilover bilstein suspension
Front and back strut bar
Boost controller
HKS silent hi-power exhaust
HKS Air filter
Braded break lines
Uprated breaks
17" bronze lightweight alloys with yokohama tires

Ok. I did not know that the ALS was not activated, that makes my options easy.

Remove the ALS (have to find out how, i know its linked into the manifold)
Buy a enclosed induction kit and channel the air from the front

Khank-you for your help Kadett, you seem very knowledgeable in this area.

Thank-you for that, its cleared a few things up for me, i guess i only have a few questions left:

1. If i did want to replace item 4, so that i could get the apexi induction kit, then i would need to somehow modify one of the pipes to accept 2 more connections, one for the BOV and one for that other pipe thats on there.
2. i could stick with the HKS induction kit....? but i dont like the fact that its not a dry filter, needs to be replaced ever 10000 miles and needs cleaning more often than that.

p.s. you said the anti lag system was empty? is it doin anything?!