6G Celicas Forums

Sorry guys, celica has been sold locally.

i went online and got two quotes for shipping... 500+/- to jersey, 800+/- to colorado.

I'll try to assist anyway I can


also, I will include the stock exhaust manifold with cat attached if you need it for emmision testing. also I have the stock airbox.

honestly, I gave the car a tune up (cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, etc) which helped alot, but did not cure the problem. perhaps a bad ground or something? really not sure... don't have the time or $$ to diagnose anymore, starting a family and wife says we need something bigger.




the misfire sounds like a misfire... j/k just a random "poof" when the engine bay is hot (south florida hot)... when I drive for awhile on the highway it goes away as the air cools the bay off. not an afterfire (backfire), not loud at all....

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=53718

94 GT Hatchback, 5SFE w/headers. 148k, small dent on right side. Clean interior. New tires. Engine runs strong but has misfire. $2k.

what about a bad ground? it's definately heat related. i was cruising on the highway without a single hesitation/misfire. as soon as I got off the highway and sat in traffic it started again...

OK, no vac leak or exhaust leak. Got the headers installed this weekend (sweet!).

Could a failing throttle position sensor cause a misfire (even at idle)?

x2

Yes on the plugs (.44 if I recall correctly). The distributor was complete with rotor cap and coil. I will try and disconnect the O2 sensor to see if that helps... thanks



yes, its killing me!! love the celi, but dam!!!!

OK, let's think about this... the car misfires when hot. This means the car is in "Closed Loop", correct? In closed loop, the car is taking the signal from the O2 sensor and adjusting the A/F ratio.

I replaced the O2 sensor a while ago but just recently noticed the that the white wire coming from the ECU is brown (burnt) in one spot. Is there some CRAZY possibilty that the resistance is too much in this section of wiring and sending an incorrect voltage to the ECU?

just shooting in the dark here!! (before I drive the celica off the highway and call Geico!)

congrats man! how long did the install take?

yes, igniter was changed



exhaust appears to be in great shape, no rust, holes, etc. i cannot hear or feel any leaks around the gaskets. i need to get some wrap for my headers then I will be installing them. i have not taken the manifold off to look down the cat though... but if it was plugged, wouldn't a vacuum test reveal that?

a vacuum test was done and checked ok. I think it was 21-22psi... i don't think it is a vacuum leak because it still stutters at WOT

no codes (on or stored). I even drove around in test mode and no codes were triggered.

didn't work...

completely out of ideas... going to sell the celica

The aftermarket seals were $24 for all four but they did not work. I do not know the Toyota part # or the price. Maybe someone here can help with that. I have an appointment today to have my injectors remanufactured by a guy in Sunrise. He charges $25 per injector and said it takes about an hour. He also replaces the seals with new OEM-type ones. I should have them installed by the weekend. I'll let you know....

Installation is pretty easy. I can do it in about 20 minutes but I have done this many times. If you want to do it yourself I can probably make a how-to when I do mine.

Does anyone know how the ECU compensates when the EGR VSV is opened? For instance, does it enrich the fuel mixture or advance the timing? Does it do anything? I definately want to remove this along with the charcoal canister but do not want any negative side effects. Again, not looking for HP gain, but both of these things are in the way and ugly...

Also, am I supposed to block the port coming out of the cylinder head when I remove the EGR? (the one in the pic)

thanks, wasn't talking about that though.. i am talking about the hole that the bottom of the EGR Valve connects to.

this one:

lol... wasn't really looking for a hp gain, just want to clean the bay a little bit and it's in the way. I am planning on the 5SFTE in the future also.

Now, I know I can get a plate to block off the hole in the throttle body, but what about the hole in the cylinder head? Can I block that? Should I block that?

I know some of the 5SFTE guys remove the EGR valve but is it possible to remove it from the N/A engine with no bad side effects? Would the ECU be ok or would a piggyback need to be added? Would there be any gains? Just curious

OK, I think I finally figured it out!!!! I believe it is the injector seals that go into the cylinder head. When I took the old ones off, they were cracked and chipped and one was even broken in half. So i purchased an aftermarket injector seal kit (B&A) and there is still the same problem but now its worse! It is a lot more frequent with the aftermarket seal kit. They do not seal as well as the Toyota ones. I am going to buy the ones from Toyota and hopefully that should solve it.

Also, got a present in the mail yesterday....

lol... this happened to me also. When I first got my car, I took it through an automated car wash and halfway through the carwash the wipers turned on and stayed on! I had water coming in on the passenger side floorboard. I think the water came in and shorted some wires. I pulled the wiper fuse and waited a few hours. when it was dry, the wipers were back to normal. I think the high pressure water came into the car through the vent in front of the windshield. It doesn't do it when it rains, just when high pressure water is applied.

bump?

Has anyone ever replaced the seal on the spraying end of the injector that comes in contact with the head? Not the o-ring that goes into the fuel rail, the other end. I just bought a seal kit however the seal on the bottom is alot looser than the factory. I don't want air to leak in. However, it's a rubber seal. I think when I tighten the fuel rail it will push against the rubber and seal fine. Anyone ever done this?

x2 ^^

that seems a little high... here I can get a manual tranny for $90 ($110 with a warranty) from the local junk yard. You have to remove it yourself though... also, I've seen good engine mounts at the junk yard for $10 each... just have to look around

There is a diagnostic box in the corner of your engine bay (closest to the driver seat). Open the box and put a wire or paperclip in terminals T1 and E1. Leave the wire there and turn your car to the On position (do not start the car). The check engine light will flash. If there are no problem, it will blink steady with no pauses. If there is a problem, it will blink, then pause, then blink again. If it flashes 2 times, pauses, then flashes once. That is a code 21. Make sense? There can be multiple codes as well. Write down all the codes until the same codes are displayed again. Post your results.