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Bought this for my 1995 Celica GT (which I no longer have). The wheel bearing was never used, and I even have the original receipt from Autozone ($75 at the time). This is for a rear application (part #512137). Send me a reasonable offer.

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Most all of the vibrations seem to transfer through to the steering wheel. I still think I get a little more vibration than normal on the gas pedal and the resting foot grove near the clutch. However, I must admit, its been ages since I was a passenger in my car and on the freeway. Jamchell, I will give that a try. Thanks for the advice.

I had mentioned the centering rings as possibly being a culprit in the first post, but I later dismissed the idea after supposidly getting the correct sized rings. After looking at them further, I still feel they are not as tight on the hub/wheel as they could be. So, instead of ordering new rings, I used thin, invisible tape and lined the insde of the hub. After re-inserting the rings, they are now much more snug and secure. I did this to the front wheels first and later drove on the freeway. I could definitely feel an improvement. I just got done doing the backs, so hopefully I will see some more slight improvement.

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No, it's free of any scratches, nicks, and blemishes. Looks exactly the same as the passenger low beam. Also, after trying to re-adjust the height of the beam pattern again, I can no longer get it to raise back up to where I originally had it. It's hard to explain, but I'll keep turning the screw to increase the height and all of a sudden it will drop back down again. It's like it reaches its maximum height (which is below where I have the passenger beam) and then gives up and forces the bulb back down. Something tells me the internal mechanism to adjust the beam no longer works correctly.

Looking for a good condition driver's side low beam with no cracks. Also would like to know if the screw adjustment works properly. Thanks.

I tried cleaning out my IAC first before replacing it, but that did not solve the problem. It was simply no good anymore. the IAC valve works exactly as it sounds: it opens and closes when the engine load calls for more air to pass through and increase your RPMs (like when your AC is turned on).

My car used to struggle terribly while at idle and running the AC. It would drop from a smooth 800 RPMs to below 500 when the AC would kick in. This would continue everytime the AC would turn on and off. It basically trained me to never use the AC Anyway, I had to replace the IAC valve (not a cheap part) and now everytime the AC is turned on the valve immediately adjusts to the added stress on the engine and raises the RPMs appropriately.

I understand that one should be careful with how they aim the headlights, but that still doesn't account for the beam pattern I'm getting on the left. I actually just leveled them a few months back, so I don't see why the left produces that extra end point, while the right remains normal. freddy121389, I will try and raise the left low beam and see if anything changes. Thanks.

Did you mainly do this just to reduce road noise, or did you also have unwated vibrations in the doors? I have a lot of little vibrations that are coming from the inside door panel and I'm wondering if this would help reduce them.

I've noticed my left low-beam bulb creates a very odd beam pattern. I don't really think I could take a picture to accurately present the problem, so instead, I have drawn the most elementary photo using Paint For whatever reason, the left housing almost creates a second strong, definite end point (though more eliptical/oval and below the nomal one). However, my right low beam is perfectly fine. I only really noticed this after installing HID's in the standard housings. The HIDs enhanced the pattern even more so. Currently, I just have Silverstars installed, but I can still tell the pattern is off. Other than inspect the headlamp by eye, I haven't tried to do anything. From the looks of it, nothing seems bent or out of place, though. I'm not really sure what to do here, so any advice is appreciated.

I appreciate all the responses

AMCMoe, how do you recommend checking on the tie rods and ball joints?

Mstoochn, the speed at which the vibrations begin is fairly consistant. I don't notice anything until I hit 55 - 60 mph. I also have never noticed a hop or specific speeds (other than high speeds) that trigger the vibration.

samir0189, the wheel vibrations are pretty constant, regardless of acceleration, deceleration, or braking. As long as I'm going around 60+, they are always there.

Something else to note....there also seems to be some vibration at the gas pedal while traveling at those speeds. Not sure how much of that is normal or if it could be linked to my steering wheel vibrations....

I've lost count of how many times I've aligned the car in the past three years. I've had an ongoing problem with the car wanting to pull to the right, so it's been aligned by a lot of different places in hopes of resolving the issue. I'm sure it could be related to alignment, but I have spent a great deal of time trying to get that right.

VieT9sD, what you're describing does happen to me on the highway. The car will have moments when it's quite smooth and other times it's very shaky and vibrational. Like you said, it seems to depend a lot on the road. However, more often than not, it's almost always not smooth, so i can't quite attribute all of my problems to the road surface.

I still find it interesting that these wheel vibration issues existed with the stock wheels. That makes me think it's something suspension based, but what exactly I don't know....Like I said in my first post, do you think added in the centering rings could mess up my balanced tires?

I'm looking to put back the original air box. My cone filter seems to put out a lot of vibration noises when shifting. Thanks.

My car just hit 96k miles, but this high speed vibration issue has always been a problem. When going over 55 mph, I'll get a ton of vibration from the steering wheel. I do have aftermarket wheels/tires. When I first bouht the wheels, I did not have centering rings and believed that would solve the problem. No dice. Even after getting the correct sized rings the car still vibrates. Before getting the rings, I did have the alignment and the wheels balanced. I wouldn't think inserting plastic hub-rings--in the center of wheel--could offset the balance, right? The shock/struts are relatively new, so it couldn't be that. Also, the car had this vibration problem even with the original wheels....Any helpful advice is appreciated.

Finally got the fuse casing out, removed the two bolts and replaced the the fuse

I found this: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...814&hl=fuse

But when I release the four clips holding the fuse casing I still can not pull it down. It's loose on one end, but not loose near the 100 ALT fuse. It feels like something else is attached.

Can you please elaborate on how to get to the bolt? I have taken the fuse box apart, but there is no slack in the wires, so I can't really maneuver around at all. Is the bolt directly below the fuse? Thanks.

Like the title says, I blew the 100 A ALT fuse in the engine bay. Naturally, nothing power works anymore (widows, locks, radio, etc). So, I'm trying to remove the fuse and the darn thing won't budge. I can remove every other fuse inside the box except the one I need out. The plastic is old and brittle, and of course broke while trying to force it out. Can anyone else confirm the difficulty of removing the fuse? I have pulled and yanked to no avail and have destroyed the fuse in the process. When I ever do get the fuse out, will this be a dealer specific part or would some place like Autozone carry a 100 A fuse? Thanks.

I don't necessarily want something cheap, just something decent I know the stock amp could power efficiently. What's the deal with those cheap paper coned subwoofers? How can they claim 100+ watts RMS? That's more than a lot of brand name ones can claim. Can anyone elaborate on their boastful specs?

Yes, but would that work with my stock setup? I would think 80 RMS per speaker would be too much for the stock amp? I remember seeing 25 Watts stamped on the stock 8" mids/subs, but I have no idea if that was RMS or peak power.

Thanks for all the information. I was just trying to keep it simple (or cheap ) by using the existing amplifier. I figured I'd ask here before I did anything rash, but I assumed that the stock system would be too weak. Is there any way I can get a hold of some similar 8" mid-range subs that could be powered by the stock system? If not mid-range, does anyone know of some 8" full-range speakers that could be substituted in there with the stock setup?

Thanks for the reply