6G Celicas Forums

One thing I learned about cars is to never fall in love with them.. They will fail on you at some time, get old, get boring, etc. When the cost of repairs start rising and the thrill is gone, sell it. I did last summer and dont even think about it anymore..A car is a car....dump it when it feels right.

Replaced the radiator too. Time of sale, the 2nd radiator was already leaking. Getting on third time replacements, its time to dump it. It sounds like my car must be the exception. Well, the main thing was I got it sold. I see lots of cars here in better shape and not able to sell. I probably held onto it too long thinking this was normal to go, but enough was enough.

Oh add - replaced cv joint on passenger side. Time of sale, driver side boot was torn. Also, when struts were added (tein springs/forgot strut name), car was lowered. This resulted in bottoming out. Sparks can be seen, basically you tying to avoid the smallest of potholes..After that, car was never fun to drive anymore.

Speaking about leaks, my convertible top had always leaked. Forgot to mention, while bring top down, I heard a loud smash. That would be the glass window shattering while top going down. Cmon, what the heck causes that? Anyway, replaced the glass with a plastic window. Replaced the entire top. Still leaked. Always drove around with 6'' of water in the bag where the top rests. Had to use cups to empty water probably once every month. Bad luck? Or badly made?

If I knew these celica's were not 'truely' made by Toyota. Rather, made by ASC after top was cut off, I would have never bought it.

Im Sure all my repairs are not 'normal' maintenance to say the least.

Cmon, Gears breaking? Power steering pumps TWO of them going? Power window motors and Top motors going? No way...This car, especially the convertible model was made poorly imo. These are not normal for things to go so many times.

I just sold my Celica 95 GT Convetible. Man, was I so happy to let it go! Its been fun in the beginning, but the last few years have been nothing but problems. Never was in an accident. Always cared for, regular maintenance performed. GOD himself could not keep this car going. I sold it at 145K miles, got it at 60K miles. Lets see, the list of things that broke:

1 - 5th Gear broke while driving. Needed to replace manual transmission
2 - 2 Power steering pumps. The 2nd one in there when I sold it always whined when it was cold- Im sure that would have broke soon again
3 - COnvertible top - Dont get me started on this disaster. Replaced both motors that move the top up and down, TWICE!! $200 a pop each.. And when I sold it one of the motors began to go again
4 - Power windows - Back small panels - they would go down - but not up! Replaced both motors. Now, when car was sold- the 1 window stopped going up (again). That was the breaking point
5 - Air hose - Ripped. Replaced it with an Air intake.
6 - Struts - Had to replace all 4 due to a thumping noise whenever hitting a bump
7 - Car never drove without the steering wheel not shaking. Replaced tires 2x (all 4). Always had a shimmy at 60+
8 - Car always burned oil! So bad had to put cardboard in the garage to prevent staining
9 - Power issue - Car would not want to turn back on!! Had to have gas attendants push my car out of gas station so I can pop the clutch and start it. Car would always be dead and had to jump it about every 2 weeks if not drive. Went through 2 alternators and 2 batteries and still same problem when sold. I even disconnected the entire radio, pulled fuse. Nobody could find out why power was drained all time
10 - Radiator. Time of sale, 2nd radiator was already leaking
11- Convertible top glass window smashed into pieces while top was going down. Replaced it with plastic window. Non stop leaking in back after that.

Im sure there is more, but dont even want to bother with it. Ill tell ya, when it was not in the shop, it was fun. But overall this was my 2nd worst reliable car, ever!!! Only my Subaru XT turbo 1987 was worse. This celica was built like garbage!!

I replaced my top about 3 years ago. I forgot the cost, but it was quite expensive - about $600 or so. Also, the glass window had to go. It was more $$ to install with glass. Oh, thats another thing. The glass window broke when the top was going down. Oh man, Ill tell ya, this car had so many issues I was so glad to sell it.

So, Ive had a new top with a plastic window. Probably a year later, it began to leak in the back - by the plastic window. It just never ended.

Never again would I buy a car with a top that was chopped off and later converted. Only problems. Too bad, the car was nice when it ran.

Thanks for your help! I will have to do some more testing. Do you think I need Capacitors on this system? With 2 Amps? Faulty wiring? Faulty equipment?

The draw IS coming from that fuse--the one with the slash...the one connected to radio/clock/viper. Once it is removed- no more draw. car starts up all the time. We already pulled all the fuses. It is that one - with the slash...

Something is wrong here. If Fuse#1 is for radio, why is mine going to the one with a slash through it? I will check fuse#1 to see if its blown. I dont think it is. So, is this thing wired wrong??? Should it be connected to fuse#1?
What fuse does the clock go to?

YES! It has a diagonal line through it! The guy said it shouldnt be there. I guess the radio installer put a real fuse, 45 - blue, in there.

Well, after years of going through batteries/alternaters - I decided to find out why.

Electical shop found a large draw on the fuse underneath the hood which was not labeled at all. Now, he didnt know what fuse was for. So when I went to pick up car, I connected face plate of Alpine. Radio did not work. Also, the clock above radio did not work. Also, my viper alarm did not work.

So, this unmarked fuse controls: Radio/Alarm/Clock

Now, He doesnt fix these issues as he is not a radio installer. He recommended going to BestBuy to fix. Well, Im NOT going to Bestbuy as I dont trust them at all. Also, the guy who did the radio/alarm install said he can put a switch so that I can turn it off when car is off. Well, great! So , I will lose all my channels, time, etc. This doesnt seem like a fix at all, rather a bandaid. You can see I dont want to go back to him.

So, now I drive around with No radio/No Alarm/No clock. But atleast my car doesnt die. I keep the fuse out. It is the standard 45amp BLUE fuse. Again - no marking on the black box to what it is. If you are facing it - its on left row - towards middle.


Any Ideas on how to fix this? Where to bring it?

1995 Celica GT Convert.

Equipment:
Alpine 7995 Head Unit (Manual says to make sure AMPS are not connected to ANT port. I dont know what they are connected to. I was unable to pull head unit out myself.
2 Amps (both not that powerful) - Both running on its own fuse directly to battery- I dont think these amps are problem.
Alpine XM Tuner (connected to CD Changer)
Alpine CD Changer
Thanks!

I had bought a meter, hooked it up - tested it. There is a draw on the battery. Removed the 3 fuses (2 amps and Alarm) - still draw. I am dropping it off to a Starter/Alternator specialitst. For $75 he will do all the stuff you just said to find the draw. Battery is brand new. And yes, I was starting car atleast 2x a week for a few minutes. But this has been going on for years- even when I drove the car alot daily...
Thanks for your advise!

Battery is brand new. Probably less than 1 month before car began dying.
Alternator has been replaced 3x already. Alternators are all rebuilds though from R&S strauss.
I wonder if the alternators are no good.

Well, both Ill have him see if there is a draw while car is on. My private mechanic said no draw on battery while car is on.

Another note to mention is when they installed the alternator, the harness attached had to be re-wired or reset to make it connect. I wonder if that wiring job is faulty.

Rears are normal on verts. Just fronts you need to worry. Have mechanic take off wheels (or yourself) and find out what type of struts are on it now. See pics here. Then order accordingly.

My mistake was I ordered all 4 without checking first. But luckily they all fit.

Well, after months of not driving my celica - I tried to start it and it was completely DEAD!

Jumped it, few weeks later, dead again!

So - I have to bring it to a electrical shop. My usual private mechanic can give a rats *ss to t-shoot it.

I pulled the fuses out for both amps and car alarm - still died!

What is the expected parasitic draw (in mA) for a 95 Celica GT?

Is it about 20-25?

Say if the expected draw is supposed to be 25ma

When Im on the 10A scale - should the readings be displaying decimals or would it likely be just a whole number like 25

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0348214...=1&fmt=jpeg

I do have a blue wire coming out of the +12V port of ONE of my amps. The 2nd amp does not have a blue wire.

So, maybe thats the problem.

So - Do I need BOTH amps have a blue wire connected to _12V port- both going to the same +12V on back of head unit?
Will the amp work fine without this blue wire? - I suspect maybe when I pulled out 1 of the amps - I didnt connect this blue wire to the back again.

Thanks so much! Great directions. I will test out.

I have a strong feeling my 2 amps are always drawing power- even when car is turned off. Are amps supposed to be wired in some 'special' way that they stop drawing from battery when car is off? Is there any way to tell if they are wired that way currently?

After further research - it seems I need to:

1) Turn off everything
2) Set multimeter to amperage
3) Disconnect negative lead cable
4) Connect one ammeter lead to the negative battery post
5) Connect the other ammeter lead to the negative lead cable

Normal current drain on most vehicles should be about 25 milliamps or less

Let me know exactly which settings and and how I connect leads to this meter. I see 3 different inputs on this meter (10A/COM/V)
Im guessing I need to connect leads to 2 of those ports- Would it be 10A and COM or the COM and V port?
Set Dial to Adc, 10A?

Hi,

I purchased a Craftsman Digital Multimeter with AC Voltage Detector:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...0383&AFFL=Y

Now, I want to test my car battery to see if there is a draw when its off.

I watched someone else do it.

I believe he took neg lead off batter. Connected one end of multimeter to battery neg post - then clipped on other end to any part of car. Light was on - which indicated a draw. The light was always on even after pulling fuses out.

Is this the correct way to test? Please see the multilmeter I purchased and let me know how you would test for a battery draw.

Thanks!!

Really appreciate your step-by-step procedure. Doesnt sound too difficult. The car is still in the shop because of a battery draw issue when car is off. I just asked my mechanic about this one. He said he will check it out. Ill let him do it if he doesnt charge me more than 1 hour. He shouldnt charge me at all with all the money I jsut gave him to replace all 4 struts/springs. Ill see what he determines.

OK. Remove tire - Drop Suspension? How do I do that?
Are these 4 bolts located near spring?

I just called dealer. Part# is good. Have to order them. They said its only for the fronts. Is their a part# for the backs too?

They said $200-$250 to install 2 fronts! 2 hours labor!

Jeez. Im not going to pay that. Let me talk to my mechanic who just put in the springs/struts last week and see if he can put them on without charging me another 2 hours labor.

Does this require another 4 hours labor to take apart the spring and strut? Or can they just keep everything on and install like they did the rear bushings?

Can I get these for all 4 tires- Front AND back?

Wow! If these is a quick install - I will order them now. I hope my mechanic knows how to put them on.

Toyotaworld from Jeff - How do I contact him?

TEIN S-TECH Springs
KYB GR-2 shocks

When I say loud metal noise -I mean it probably is the front end of my car hitting the ramp of the driveway. Sounds like metal - when it prob is the plastic bottom scrapping ( I hope)

Well, you know it does seem to ride like stock - but much much stiffer. Maybe I was expected it to take slight bumps like my suv. I now definately have to slow down -alot - when I see bump(s) in road. Is this all normal? If not, I feel a sound as though im bottoming out. Its not a clunk sound like I had when my bushings were bad. That was like metal on metal. This is just like a sound when u have no shocks.I

If I push up/down near wheel base - should the car bounce up/down - or should there be little to no movement? Im guessing no movement.