6G Celicas Forums

realy. guess i figured the blocks would be very similar. what would you recomend for a tranny then?

yea, thats the plan. that is if i can find a good one. if not then i'll see how long the stock one will hold up, when it goes it goes

so i got my ct26 the other day and in a few months i'll be ready for the quick install. heres what im looking at for parts. ct26 rebuild kit, 87+ rx7 460cc injectors, blow off valve of some sort(havent decided what brand i want yet), electronic boost controller(also haven't decided on a brand), custom downpipe by yours truley, custom exhaust by yours truly(all tig welded stainless...), fmic and piping, and most likely the emanage for control, some misc. gauges, warlboro pump, and i plan on ceramic coating the stock 3s manifold. i know i know, "what about a clutch?" im not really concerned about it because with this setup i may, and i mean at most will be running 8psi. once that first snowy cloud appears the cars going in the shop and the engines getting pulled. from there on i will be doing a gt4 tranny swap, complete rebuild(not stock:) ), p and p, new cams, maybe new turbo, not decided yet, hopefully full standalone, nitrous(if i get a big turbo), and something for my soon to be bad traction. im thinking about fabbing up a trac-bar setup like the little hondas. im looking at a goal of about 14-16 psi when i do the full build. hopefully i dont run into any subframe issues. so if anyone has any suggestions they would be much appreciated.

ryan

so i just got my ct26 yesterday and im planning on rebuilding it. i was wondering what the best turbo work would be to do. i want to run 15-18 psi and have it be electronicly controlled. any help would be nice. o and its going on a 5sfe

im goingto guess high resistance in the starter. i've seen it happen plenty of times. i'd say get it good and warmed up, shut it off, and do an amp draw test. if at all possible, take it off hot and do a bech test. to do it you hook an ammeter in series to the starter batt. terminal(30) and a charged battery. run the battery negative to the case. then connect a voltmeter to the battery and that will give you your voltage draw. run a jumper wire or remote starter to the starter batt. terminal(30) and the control wire(50). the starter should spin and the drive pinion gear will extend out when the jumper wire is connected or the button is pushed. check your amp dram and volt drop again. they should be no more than 90 amps. if more your starter is junk. i don't know the spec for volt drop but if its excessive (volt meter reading below 9v) starter is junk. if the starter doesn't spin, its junk. if everything else is good, then i would go through the coils and such. they are a less likely problem, but anything can happen...

so heres what i would say to start with. the am2 fuse is in the starter circuit. there is a black wire with a red tracer that runs from shortly after the fuse to a junction block(left kick panel). check that wire for short to ground. if there is none in that wire then it could be a short going to the ignition switch. that wire is the main power wire for your ignition. anything other than doing a visual inspection will require a voltmeter and doing voltage drops of wires... if you need any other info on where to look or what to volt drop just pm me and i should be able to help you...

so i am going to turbo my 5s. i know what parts i need but i don't know what brands... i have the turbo, manifold, intercooler, and injectors. i guess what im wondering is what would be a good choice for bov, boost controler, turbo timer, fuel controler, and ignition controller. thanks for all the help!!!

-ryan

tell ya what, you give me a low milage gt4, and this cars yours, lol. its a vicious trade off

lets go 101, lol

minni wiscon, watever, lol

ya sounds good to me

ya thats what im doing if i don't drag it

well, as of right now im not sure on the time. when i get done with school in june im going to four link my ford, 2.5 ton rockwells and 54's but after that, the 5sfte is next. im looking at starting the chevelle around feb or march. im still debating on tubbing it or not, and if i tub it out im going to do a flat black. if not then i will most likely go candy apple red with pearl white stripes. it will be fun but im looking at about a year because this ones going to be a frame off... once i get started i'll post some pics of my ford, chevelle, and the 5sfte...

idk we'll just have to see i guess

i just picked up this ss from colorado last week. its in really nice shape, with the only rust being surface rust on that rear quarter. all original ss with original trim and all. its got a 350 with a powerglide and 4.10's. should be a pretty good build. i've got big plans for a 702 and maybe even a twin turbo setup...

and i guess i'll wait till next year to unveil the 5sfte

why don't we try to make it an anual thing? sounds like a good idea to me, lol

its not bad actually, having the t-handle makes the feel real clean. i'm still used to driving a ford truck so ya, lol

my 97 gt. still have to re-do the door panels, and i've been thinking of going to red and black cf for the trim pieces.










some of the pieces look orange, but thats just my camera...

well ya maybe in spring, then i'll have the 5sfte done

ya that'd be cool, like i said, i'll be back around july so i was thinking about then. and i think lax would be a really good spot! pretty central and a beautiful drive. maybe we can actually bring wisconsin and minnisota together lmao.

im currently in wyoming for school, but in mid june i will be returning home to wisconsin. im from the dells area and i was interested in setting up a get together or something if anyone is interested. if you have some ideas on when and where throw them out there and the people that are interested can make a decision.

as far as your transmission goes, if you have an automatic computer in it and it isn't getting a signal from the tranmissions computer(automatic) that it is in park or nuetral, regardless of the shifters position upon removal, then it won't even crank. this is assuming you didn't change any connections to MAKE it crank. do you have a dmm? if so check your coil again, and if it is indeed within specs and getting spark just follow your components between there and your plugs. that should narrow it down a little for you.

also, and i am not sure on the 5s what this would affect, but if you removed the crank position sensor when you did the timing belt, or it is just too far out of spec (resistance and clearence) it may not be understanding that the engine is even turning over. you may want to check to be sure that you have connected that.

i just put my 97 gt away for the winter. shes sitting in about 80 degrees!!! just thought i'd rub it in to all of you whos cars are in the cold... but realy i do miss it and its been gone only 3 days!!! can't wait till spring to put the new struts, mounts, rotors, pads, and clutch:)

moved