6G Celicas Forums

Save yourself and don't do it.
gz3nz

I've got various parts from a GT4 front end conversion that I gave up on for ££ reasons. So I'm trying to sell out the parts to recoup some costs, obviously the bonnet and bumper are too big for worldwide shipping but I've already got the bar packed up in a very strong triangular box. The bar is £80, I can ship to the US for £45. To get international shipping prices go to www.interparcel.com and check for UK to [country]. Shipping weight is 6kg, 125cm x 18cm x 18cm

I have some genuine GT4 fog lights as well with brackets included. £80 for the pair + shipping. Unfortunatly I don't have weight / size info yet. If anyone is interested I will find out.

I've been using this new alarm since Xmas with no troubles, except the remote start function is always cut out by the Toyota Immobiliser. I have a bypass module, which I've tried under various setups but can not get it to reliably work. I know there's a few of you guys on here who have got the remote start to work ok, I was wondering how you managed to get the bypass to work. What kit did you use, how was it wired, any and as much detail would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Rear wheel bearing = Piss easy
Front wheel bearing - Havn't done it myself, but a lot harder than the front.

I love this game. You get a lot of playability for free, but it really doesn't let you know how much is available if you buy the full version. I usually drive online in the British server BCS (best car shaguar), screen name "Bunty" (My gf bought the game and installed it on her PC, I use her account).

If you left it for 2 years the battery could be dead enough to short enough current from the donor battery to stop a succeessfull jump. This happened to a freinds battery after only a couple of months.

To be sure borrow a battery that you know is powefull enough (i.e. not from a 1.0 litre car) and swap it in (Remove yours from the circuit). If it still doesn't start then you know for sure you have something more serious.

Unlikely to be the pads after 1,500miles unless that was entirely on clear motorways with little breaking.

You can play about with listening to the front wheel bearings by securing the rear wheels, jacking up the front of the car and putting it on axil stands. Drive the wheels (Do not steer) and listen. I've spun the wheels up to 130mph without feeling like the car will fall of the stands, but for my own peace of mind, do this at your own risk, and if it falls of the stands or you burn your ear on a spinning wheel I didn't tell you to do it.

How many miles have you done on your new brakes?

You can check if it's your belts by removing them (Or just the alternator belt in some cars, I think, including the 7A-FE), starting the enigne with the bonnet open and see if you've solved the noise. Obviously without the alternator connected you'll discharge your battery if you keep running the engine, but you'll be fine doing this as a diagnostic check.

Could you offer shipping to the UK?
$s are cheap over here.

Many years ago, my Mum had the same problem with her car, and made the same mistake you did. She had scratches in the glass, which had their fair share of grime in them, and they refracted the sunlight and oncoming traffic headlights into her eyes. The grime helped, because it caught the light that would otherwise have refracted through the scratches. So yeah, cleaning the grime out will allow more light to get refracted into your eyes.
Unfortunatly she never sorted it out properly till the car was sold. But I don't think polishing was tried.

Ok, as a real collage it's not quite as alike as it was in my head, but still an uncanny resemblance.

Look at the headlights and front grill. It's basically an collage of Audi photos (R8 headlights, A6 grill)

I had a small crash a while back resulting in a knackered hub. I ended up paying about £175 for a new one (about $350). I did establish they are not easy to find cheap, and don't bother getting a second hand one from a breakers, I had it on good authourity to pay the extra for a new one. I found this on my searches.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_par...ota/celica.html
But they're a bit over $300, so probably not much use for this.

It's a real pain to tigten, I found there is a plate you can attach a large adjustable spanner to to get some leverage, unlike the alternator, where there is a bolt to tighten the belt.

There are two bolts on the pump (at least there are on UK models). The top bolt is the pivot bolt and can be reached through the top, however the bottom bolt (lock bolt) is a pain to get at, and it far easer to go under the car to find it.

I know these are popular so I though this would be an interesting find to share. They ship worldwide as well.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/toyota-celica-ta23-d...1QQcmdZViewItem
Currently 99p with no bids.

The wheels are far too big on all those cars, especially the Merc.

Kissing the shadows - Children of Bodom

Until you have heard this you do not know the purpose of a guitar solo. Although, someone will always say it's a little sweep picking heavy.

Steve Vai, Joe Satriani and the like are all very good musicians, and can play the guitar very well, but, to me it just sounds like a grade 26 guitar peice, not music.

This may sound stupid, but check your wheel nuts are done up tight. I had this once after I changed the discs, loose nuts = loose disc = rubbing on pad.

The way I see it is most of the new Toyota parts bought up by you guys are body parts, which we can easily get from breakers over hear. The parts that would cause problems if they were used up becuase 2nd hand doesn't cut it, such as super strut suspension parts, brake parts and the like are not used because they can't be fitted to the STs and GTs.

That's exactly what I thought when I found out, but it seems the component parts of a GT4 are worth considerably more than the car itself.

Well, if anyones interested I could send out the GT4 crash bar and the two brackets to the USA for £250 ($485, the exchange rate isn't good for UK -> USA trade) (subject to the parts weighing what I guess they do, will stick them on a scale this weekend)
GT4 bonnet and bumper would be too large to send. If you're after any other GT4 bits, I can quote for you.

Addition: This can only be stock GT4 parts that will be sitting on the cars at the breakers. Also big things are out, like bonnets and bumpers. I don't have any ties or contacts so I can't get cheap stuff, just what will be at the breakers yards.

I was offered £130 delivered from a breakers, but the deal I'm now doing is with a celica-club member for £80, + petrol money to meet up and collect. How much are you paying for these parts in the US?

There's this guy in England who imports GT4s, drives them round for a few weeks then breaks them up for parts. Perhaps there is a market for this over there?

Definatly. My GT4 bumper has been decorating my back garden for ages now because I want to fit it properly, with a useful crash bar. Good news is that I'im picking up a gt4 crash bar and brackets on Saturday.

^^ Yes it is a lot simpler and easier, but it also does not hesitate to attept to remote start while in gear.

Well, that would only happen if you mounted them really, really badly.

As I'm still working on my neutral safety switch I'll have to do this in two bits. So, this is how I made it.

My plan is to detect the left and right position of the gearstick. My thinking is if I know if the position is either:
(1st or 2nd) or
(3rd, neutral or 4th) or
(5th or reverse) or
Chances are slim that I'll park in 3rd or 4th so if I can cover left and right with push to break switches and then set it up so if the circuit is broken, the remote start is disabled.
To do this I've got two long lever microswitches which I positioned to cover the right hand (for RHD vehical) linkage. I stuck these to a sticky pad so I knew their position relative to each other (white pad in photo 1)
Photo 1
Then I cut up a plastic card to the right size and superglued this to fix the two switches as one. I also scratched up the card with a blade to help the glue. Once this was set I peeled of the white sticky pad and repeated on the other side.
The switches were wired so when neither is pressed a current can flow, but the circuit is broken if either switch is pressed. (Photo 2)
Photo 2,
In this photo, centre two wires are connected.


The light has run out here so I can't install this today. But I'll extend this when I get a chance.