6G Celicas Forums

bump -- I'd still really like these out of my basement (and hopefully on the road!).

Let's say now, $250 shipped?

Cleaning out things from the garage...

Koni Yellow inserts in OEM housings (the only way to have Konis) with Ground Control springs -- somewhat soft for DD (I can grab spring rates if you want to be sure).


I think I had these on my Celica for about 12,000 miles or something? They work great -- comfortable, sporty, but could use new top bits. I had to lubricate the tops fairly often or else the springs would bind up.


And, honestly, continuing to grind down some of the unnecessary OEM strut housings and maybe throwing some rustoleum on them wouldn't hurt, but, they are in pretty decent condition.


$425, shipped.

Airbox is sold -- everything else is still available!

Airbox pending sale.

Ok -- apologies, but here's pictures and updates:

Coils:




ECU:



Airbox lid / MAF:




Timing Belt Kit -- and update, it's just some oil seals and the tensioner. The final invoice price for this from Lithia was $125, so let's say $100 shipped instead.




Random Gaskets -- these are a bit more random than I thought. If you really want I can get part numbers off of some of them, but maybe I'd just prefer to send the whole kit-and-kaboodle to you for the cost of shipping.
(one of my cats needed to help)

Hey all -- long story short, after a few incidents involving my neighbors and nature, I don't have a Celica anymore.

But I've got some BEAMS parts. All prices are just guesstimates / OBO. At some point I need things out of my basement!

4x Coils - $100?
1x ECU - $100?
MAF, just the top part / cover with the sensor that attaches to a stock airbox - SOLD
Timing belt kit --See below -- belt, some gaskets, a tensioner. $100 shipped.
Assorted gaskets -- I bought the gasket set for when I did a timing belt and engine install. A lot of the oil seals and things were used, but there's stuff here. Yours for shipping.

Pictures and more details forthcoming, just needed to get stuff listed eventually.

A rock managed to crack my low beam, and water's since gotten in.

Ideally I'd like the full light, but if you only have the glass I'd be interested as well.

The BEAMS Owners Group URL Changed. The Google indexes haven't caught up yet.
If you start from mr2.com, you can get there.

Perfect. Looks like this'll be a fun fix tomorrow.
Thanks!

Nope, the one on the other side.
I can't quite tell from sticking my head in there and looking at it if it goes to a nub on the block or a nub on the water pump housing.

On my BEAMS, I've got a small crack in the water bypass hose from the left side of the oil cooler.

Trying to figure out where the other end of that hose goes, I can't remember, and the diagrams aren't much help.

I'm hoping I'll be able to just take off the alternator bracket and be able to get to it there...

Thanks!

I have all of the white faces from my SS-III BEAMS cluster, if the faces is really all you want.

Every NA 6th Gen uses the same pump.

I've got one in Colorado.

Nope, the cables have been sold, sorry.

Bump! (And updated the main thread some)
Moving so I'd like to get a lot of this stuff gone.

If the Subframe/Powersteering rack/SS struts and stuff don't get accounted for in a day or two, I'm going to have to turn them into scrap metal.

A quick update - I think I may have found the problem.

The ground for the temp/fuel gauge is ~60 ohms to battery ground, compared to a svelte sub-1-ohm for the rest of the grounds that make their way to the cluster. Since temperature is measured as resistance between ground, I'm going to go ahead and try to bridge that cluster's ground to one of the other grounds on the cluster.

Ok, a few gained insights:
1) I've got a very, very small coolant leak in the throttle body heater pipe.
2) Radiator cap doesn't seem to hold pressure

And on the electrical side, there's a few things that might be strange? I would be super-appreciative if one of you guys could confirm some resistances for me:

Temp connector ground to battery negative: 101 ohms (seems a bit high... Odd though that this connects to the E2 on the ECU though. Maybe I could just fork this so that a part of it grounded to the block as well or directly to the battery)
ECU connector to battery ground: Infinity (this seems good)
Gauge to Battery ~40? (definitely nonzero, I forgot to write this down)
Connector ground to gauge: 40 ohms
Connector ground to ECU: Infinity


I'm most curious about what the connector/battery ground to gauge is. I believe it should be nonzero as the gauge needle will have some passthrough, I'm just curious what it is.

As far as the connector ground to the battery ground, I have yet to check the grounds on the back of the engine, but I'm pretty certain they are good (mostly because I forgot them the first time I tried to turn the car on).

Thanks!

Isn't the BEAMS three wire in the same way as the original one wire and two wire sensors? A la, one goes directly to the cluster and one goes to the ECU?

Nonetheless, I've actually got the 5S cluster's gauge in there, so when some bad weather dies down I will try putting in the BEAMS temp gauge/fuel part of the cluster and go from there.

The wiring is a consideration of mine - mostly because I did it. (Extending the harness anyway). So it sounds like in general it should report a bit higher than what the thermostat is rated for? (Makes sense, it's coming right off of the engine block).

It's definitely filled, I've filled and bled the thing quite a few times with the same results. The radiator fans are triggered by the coolant radiator sensor at the bottom of the radiator, which given the fact that my radiator seems to be doing a good job of cooling, I wouldn't expect it to still be 200F at the bottom of the radiator.

I've still got some cooling issues on the BEAMS.

Here's the deal, I've got a new radiator, new OEM thermostat, new hoses, new water pump and new temperature sensor. (I want this swap to run for quite a while).

Still have some cooling problems though where it'll run hot, and the temperature gauge will behave somewhat erratically. I hooked up OBD to it and the ECU reported around ~95C with the needle close to the red. Of note, I tested my 82C thermostat and it opened, but maybe a bit higher than 82C (it's not the most accurate thermostat in the world) but it still seemed maybe a bit strange?

I'm pretty confident the system is completely bled, and heat works. The top radiator hose gets hot but the bottom one less so (though, shouldn't the coolant going into the engine be pretty cold anyway?)

I ran the engine briefly with no thermostat and just water and it also got surprisingly close to operating temperature (I didn't drive it though) on a maybe 90 degree day.

Thoughts?

Tore apart the engine, so I've got the head, cams, and valve cover up for sale themselves now.

How much for the coil packs?

Yep, I do!

Shift linkage sold.

I've got a pair of USDM taillights:


and I've got a pair of CV axles from a GT that have ~50k on it that are already rebuilt and not worth much, but if you need an extra core, here you go!