6G Celicas Forums

The white wire is the one you are supposed to intercept... Do not emphazise too much on the wire colour because pin out and colour may be different for other years and models. The most important part is to identify the IGT signal from the ECU. Cut this wire, and feed it to the E-manage's ignition output/input according the E-manage instructions. That is the ignitor's trigger wire which is what the ECU sends to the ignition module to fire the coil. By intercepting this wire, the E-manage is advancing or retarding this signal, therefore, changing timing. The 5S-FE is one of the easiest cars to hook up an ignition signal because it uses a distributor, and literally fool-proof in getting this wire correct...lol

My RPM signal is taken from the "IGF" signal, which is the ignitor's feedback wire.. This would be the black/yellow wire.

RPM signal aka IGF = Black/Yellow at stock ECU's harness
Ignition signal aka IGT = White at stock ECU's harness

To double check if everything works, you can verify timing changes with a timing light



1. No comparison at all... One is an electronic boost controller, and the other is fuel/ignition management...lol

Hey presure2, the wiring portion is straight forward; but due to differences between US/CAN/Cali spec ECU's in a variety of years, I cannot confirm exactly which pinout it would be for your particular Celica. The wire I intercepted is the white wire located on Plug A Pin#20... As long as the wire you decide to use is labelled as "IGT" which is a wire that leads to the ignitor module, then it is all good. You can verify this wire by testing the continuity between the ignitor's white wire and at the ECU.

At the E-manage's section, you will need to configure the ignition output signal jumper (JP8) to 12v by referring to the manual

No worries elvasoshexai, if your data ever gets lost for whatever reason, just let me know and I will re-upload everything for you. I have all your stuff saved on file anyway But in reality, the data should never be lost...

Sudden change of load will make the engine more prone to knocking... You will actually get the same type of load change if you were to powershift a 5spd car with no lift-throttle shifting

Changing timing based on shifting is sort of a bandaid... On most standalone computers, there is an actual map you can tune for based on the rate of load change.

I believe the turbo FAQ thread that is stickied on this forum will have all the answers you are looking for:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=29705

As presure2 stated already, the Ultimate can modify the actual injector duty cycle.. It can intercept the injector wire and modify the fuel without affecting anything else.

The other main advantage of the Ultimate is temperature correction. The Ultimate has both water temp and air temp correction which is absolutely necessary for a good tune. The E-manage blue will need constant retunes when weather changes, which I do have a fair share of customers coming in each winter for retunes with the E-manage blue.

One other feature I like about the Ultimate is the ability to drive 4 additional injectors on a 4cyl engine. You can literally set it up so it fires accordingly to your factory injectors under boost when you need more fuel. That's a major bonus because I set all my customer's cars with additional injector setups so their gas mileage, idle quality, starting/cranking, and emissions remain 100% factory but no problems running up to twice or three times the amount of power over stock

Yes you can weld cast iron... Just use a nickel rod Preferably preheat the cast iron manifold up to temperature, weld it, and then wrap a heat blanket on top to slowly cool it off.

Lots of factory OEM parts, such as engine brackets, manifold supports, etc.. are sometimes two cast iron pieces welded together.

Internal wastegates show a few symptoms of going bad... It works with a diaphragm that pushes a spring which in turn moves the wastegate flapper.

If the diaphragm is ripped or leaking, then it will fail to properly push the spring to open the wastegate flapper. This would cause abnormal boost spikes and also boost creep. As RPM increases, the boost reference signal (vac line to wastegate) is leaked out and the diaphragm no longer does its job controlling the movement of the flapper properly.

If the wastegate spring has fatigued from aging or thousands of heatcycles, then it you would get wastegate creep. This is when the wastegate flapper prematurely opens as exhaust pressure overcomes the fatigued spring in the wastegate, forcing it to open before it builds full boost. You will get a really laggy turbo and boost takes forever to build.

Here's how wastegate really works... All it does is vent and redirect exhaust away from the turbo and bypasses it to maintain boost. The few main factors to consider are manifold/wastegate design, exhaust back pressure and the amount of boost you plan to run. Don't even look at WHP at all because I had cars in here at 300 WHP needing a 50mm wastegate.

If your manifold has a wastegate location that is in clear path of all manifold runners, then you can mostly get away with a smaller wastegate. If you have a manifold that has a wastegate location that only vents out one or two runners only and has a nasty bend, etc, then you may want a larger one.

If you are running a turbo biased with a much larger turbine housing and wheel, such as most Garrett GT series turbos (smallest compressor trim within its family), then it has more "turbine" then "compressor". Turbos will larger turbines will dramatically lower exhaust back pressures, and therefore, it requires more wastegate. The natural least restriction path for exhaust to flow out is through the turbo instead (because of big turbine and lower back pressures between turbo and exhaust ports), and it would mostly likely keep going through the turbo instead of going out of the wastegate if the wastegate is too small. AKA boost creep

Another thing to look at is the amount of boost you plan to run. If you have a really large turbo say a GT35R, and you somehow want to run only 6 PSI, this would require a much larger wastegate too. Assume that 100% of flow going through the turbo equals max boost of 20 PSI for example.. Now you want to run 6 psi kinda puts it at 30% through the turbo and 70% out of the wastegate. The lower the boost, the bigger the wastegate.

So all this boils down to really... Run the largest wastegate vs price that you can afford and physically fit in your engine bay. That is why the Tial 44mm became so popular because it was compact and it is the largest wastegate in its size without breaking the bank =)

Another cheaper solution while still able to get some decent tuning is getting an E-manage Blue or Ultimate. Both units also offer sub-injector controller which is RPM and MAP-load based for much better tuning.



Well, unfortunately, those turbo Hondas don't last either... If you want a super cheap weekend warrior that lasts one weekend, you can't go wrong with a stock Mustang V6 and slap a 150 shot on it with some deflated all seasons...LOL

E-manage Ultimate works well, but i would suggest trying with an additional injector setup rather than scaling it down on larger injectors.

1:1 is standard really... When we refer to rising rate, it also means "additional" fuel is increased as boost rises. Pretty much all factory fuel regulators are 1:1. There is no additional fueling with a 1:1 regulator.

The SX 2:1 is a true rising rate. The Cartech FMU are rising rate regulators. The engine is receiving additional fuel whenever boost increases.

A 1:1 regulator doesn't increase more fuel.. it maintains base fuel pressures when fuel is firing from the injector.

For exmaple, 45 PSI base pressure at the fuel rail minus the 20 PSI positive pressure in the intake manifold = 25 psi of fuel from the injectors due to boost fighting against the injector itself.

A 1:1 rising rate will maintain 45 psi firing out of the injector. 65 PSI rail pressure fighting against 20 PSI of manifold pressure will still result in only 45 psi exiting the injector.

Anything higher than 1:1 will be considered a true rising rate.

You may want to look at what turbo you plan to run as well. Most guys here opt for the CT-series turbos off a factory Toyota.

10 psi on a CT26 obviously isn't the same as a 10 PSI on a T3/T67 for example. One if pushing 220 WHP while the T3/T67 could be pushing over 250 WHP. Read the stickied thread, and judge at what power level you should stop at if you want to setup to last.

Just take it like a man and hit a few books, build a few cars before deciding to share a "tech post" of your own

I would love to see you quote where I misinformed anyone.

I checked Forge's website and that would be $100 euros not including $55 shipping they quoted.
The total cost appear to $200 USD plus applicable taxes (14% in Canada). Definitely not a $100 solution.

I have the Forge internal actuator for my GT2871R in my turbo Integra, and their units work great but they don't last. Their diaphragms always end up ripping in matter of months, and I believe I am already on my 4th replacement diaphragm in the past 2 years.

Stop spreading misinformation. You can't get "boost problems" with a larger wastegate. You can never "overwastegate" a turbo setup. The larger the wastegate valve, the lesser it has to move to evacuate exhaust flow. This also means faster control of boost since the valve only has to crack ever so slightly to maintain boost.

The only downside is cost and finding room to install a larger wastegate. Other than that, there are no downside in the performance aspect.

Also, no one rates wastegate with "WHP". It goes with manifold design and exhaust pressures. The lower the exhaust pressures, the more wastegate it needs. Every engine is different in terms of exhaust pressures. Anyhow. larger turbos always use large turbines which greatly reduce exhaust pressures, thus, we commonly read about the need for larger wastegates for larger turbos. Lastly, manifold design, such as the wastegate placement has the largest impact on wastegate sizing. A wastegate placement that is opposing the direction of exhaust flow will have a hard time redirecting exhaust out of the wastegate. A manifold such as that, would need more wastegate.

Example of a poor wastegate design that requires a larger wastegate... Notice how exhaust needs to turn the opposite direction to exit the wastegate:



Example of a good wastegate placement that requires a smaller wastegate:

Nice! I would like to see some 4th gear pulls on the dyno though to hear the engine rev it out

Looks like it's already flipped