6G Celicas Forums

I recently replaced the timing belt on my 94gt and the 3 pin connector to the alternator disintegrated in my hand. No biggie, right? well the 3 wires can just push up onto the alternator pins, but I can't figure out which go where. I *think* i have it close because when I plug it in the alternator engages and puts a minor load on the engine. However since this happened, my tach has not been working. I checked all the fuses under the dash and near the battery and everything checks out.

Any hints or tips on troubleshooting the tach? I have no idea what wiring/fuses to look for.

A color coding diagram for the pins on the alternator would be great too but I haven't found anything in my book.

Thanks !

i had the same problem , car would cut off randomly pulling up to stop lights. then it got to where it wouldnt start randomly some mornings, just progressively worse over time. idle was fairly low also, new ecu fixed it. good luck

just a quick update, put a new ECU in it and it runs fine. Only issue now is the idle is inconsistent, sounds like it's got a partial misfire , but otherwise its running great.

you'd be surprised on the timing thing, it really needs to be dead on. it seems much more crucial on a quad rather than dohc, but ive found picky ones of each. anyhow i had this same problem after a oil pump replacement, and after throwing parts at it for days i finally figured it out. it was totally unrelated, but my coil was not up to par. I replaced the coil and it fired right up no problem. The only indicator was by looking at the color of the spark on the plug, just pull a plug out, put it back in the boot, then ground it the engine or frame and look at the color of the spark. with a charged up battery it better be blue, if its orange or yellowish then i'd think about throwing coil in it.

if that checks out fine, go back in and check the timing marks, you are at the point now where you just need to eliminate the possibilities.

Okay so my celica has been basically parked for a year or so, mostly because of a startup issue. pretty much, it spins over fine, and starts up quickly, but as soon as it starts up, 1 second later it dies, if you try to spin it over after that you get nothing. The engine turns over but it makes no effort to fire up. However, if you turn the key back into the off position, then back into start, it will repeat the same thing, instant fire up and then dies. This happened a few times off and on before we parked it also, but it seemed like if you let it sit for a few minutes and tried it again it would run just fine. i'm already ordering a new ECU for it, but i was wondering if anyone else experienced the same problem or had suggestions?

It had sat for months with this problem, then one day i decided to try to move it a few weeks ago, it fired up fine and ran for 30 minutes with no problems, tried it again today, and same start-up and die problem.

p.s., fuel pressure is fine, spark is fine, this is a basically stock 5sfe motor.

replaced the wheel bearings all around recently. Not sure about motor mounts, but this sound is similar to if you left a wrench sitting on top of something under the car, if that helps

Hi guys, i have a 94 gt that was wrecked on the drivers side front a year or so ago. We replaced all the parts, including the strut and spindle assembly and what not. Anyhow a year or so later, the car has started to get real wobbly, the steering "grabs" in either direction ( i think it needs an alignment for this problem), and it makes a rattling noise under the car, like something is loose, every time i hit any sort of bump in the road. I've been under it a few times, and there doesnt seem to be anything loose, all the bolts for the hub assembly/struts etc are all tight, but the noise persists. I know it definitely needs new shocks, the others on it are originals with 150k, plus when i do hit any bumps it hits really hard. Only thing i can think of, is maybe one of the shocks is totally screwed up on the inside and rattling around, but from a quick look at them i couldnt see anything. Any suggestions would be great
-dave

yea im gonna recheck the fuses and fusible links/ relays today. Yea when i say its not turning over i mean its not doing anything at all. We used a jumper wire to jump the starter just to see if it was an starter or ign switch problem but that just showed the starter was in good working condition. Engine just isnt getting any power, gonna pull a plug wire and see if the dist is getting anything next as well. thanks for the replies

Hi guys, ok heres the deal. I have a 94 celica gt, was driving down the road, slowed down at a light, light changed and the car was dead. Tried to start it up , it doesnt turn over or even try to. It has power however, the battery is full in fact now that I had it towed home. Everything works except the engine, we jumped the starter from the battery juts to see if hte ignition switch went out but that would let it turn over but not start. Checked fuses and relays and all seems to be in working order. It has a stock anti theft system on it, that has a little chip below the dash near my right leg, that seems to be all still hooked up , but i dont know of a way to bypass it to rule it out. Any info on this would be appreciated!

Update: after tossing a few new parts at it i finally got it going, turns out it was a bad coil, the ohm test didnt show it, and the pull&ground the plugs test showed the plugs sparking blue so for a while i ruled the coil out. Why the coil went bad at that time I don't know, i wasnt even working on that side of the motor .. Thats what threw me off in the first place because i thought i may have stretched one of the wires in the harness or something. Anyhow its good to go now no problems at all and thanks guys for your input.
-Dave

i think ur talking about the ignitor, its remote mount on my 5sfe up against the firewall up top on the drivers side.




-Dave

just tried that, no change, testing fuel pressure today and if i dont get any leads from that then its going to my neighbor, he has alot of electrical/electronic troubleshooting experience :/

this is really frustrating and i keep hoping its something simple that i overlooked, but until i get this car up and running again i cant tear apart my other one , which i finally got the parts for /

well from what ive read the crank sensor is on the other side (dist side) of the camshaft, i'll have a look but i dont see any wires besides the big harness that were even touched in the process.

and spunky393 thats funny.....but seriously there is an oil pump cover gasket that goes around the top left of the oil pump housing(it houses the actual oil pump gear, and the gear itself comes off with that section of the housing. I didn't know anything about it when i went in, i assumed it was a front crank seal but started it up after i had the covers removed to try to find the source of the leak. it was a PITA finding that gasket b/c no parts stores around knew wtf i was talking about, even bringing it in to show them (i.e. Oreilly's employee says: so what kinda transmission this come out of anyway), but i lucked out at a local import parts store that knew what i was talking about and even had one in stock (amazed, as they usually have NOTHING i need)
oil pump
the gasket i had to get is located in the top left of the housing, has like 6 bolts around it and it also holds the gear in place.


anyhow back to the problem, ive traced the wires for the injectors and they seem to be working properly, engine isnt throwing any codes (probably doesnt help that it wont start now), ive triple checked the timing belt using the TDC method on #1 cylinder, and im getting a blue/white spark when i checked the plugs/wires for ignition. Only thing i havent done yet, is get the exact fuel pressure reading, its definitely getting fuel (smells like raw fuel when i turn it over) but im still rigging up a gauge to fit on the line to get an exact reading. So after i do that i'll be totally stumped, and probably buying a new computer.

Dave

ok heres the deal, this is a 94 gt (2.2l) i had to change out the oil pump gasket since it was leaking about 2 quarts a day, while i was in it i changed the tiiming belt also. I had the marks lined up, and while i had the covers off and motor mount etc off i cranked it up to make sure i had it set right. Well it started up fine. So, i put everything back together and now it wont start. It spins over but makes no attempt to fire up at all. So far ive checked fuel pressure (good) , spark is correct ( i pulled a wire to make sure it was working) , and double checked timing by putting the crank mark on 0 and checking the rotor button. So i have spark fuel and air, but still no startup. Currently im into the computer wiring hoping i may have stretched or pulled a wire loose somewhere, and that is taking forever. Has anyone had this problem before? the computer isnt throwing any codes (i cant really crank it anyway so it stays in open loop), so i dont really know what to do except go one wire at a time and try to find a missing link. If u guys have any suggestions it would be appreciated, thanks
Dave

I need a set of fenders for my 6gen, stock or otherwise, really dont want to go the ebay route if i dont have to . Thanks, Dave

Thanks, ive installed several head units , but mostly in older cars, and never with this many wires, my last option was to trace each set of wires down for each speaker but id hate doing that, so yeah i'm gonna go with the aftermarket head unit and adapter harness, i just really would hate putting a used amp in and have it do the same thing a few months (or weeks) down the road ( could have been a head unit issue that caused it to burn up). thanks again guys for all the help ^_^

oops yea sorry below heater controls, i took it apart a few weeks ago and havent touched it since. with an aftermarket head unit i'd need to wire splice also, correct? i dont think theres an adapter that fits the harness that goes into input side of the amplifier.

ok my stock amp (above heater controls) is officially fried, what are my options? i know i could order another junkyard amp but i dont want junk, and theres like 80 wires harnessed into it (then it harnesses into the head unit) , i'd rather not jump to wire splicing seeing as how many wires there are. Does anyone have a wiring diagram? i'd rather not buy a junkyard item since it could very well be, junk ...so any opinions or personal experience would be great here, on the easiest way to go about this.. thanks in advance, dave

well really what happened was first my back speakers went out, then the amp started smoking, so i pulled it and i just wanted to replace since theres like 75 million wires going to it. Ive looked at car-part.com and found a few listed but would rather go thru someone that possibly just has one laying around, before going the junkyard way and paying alot mor and not even knowing how long it'll last

I need the stock amplifier for the 8 speaker premium sound system, the one under the heater controls in the console. If u got the one under the drivers seat, could use that also. PM me your price or reply in post, thanks
-Dave

it made a noise like the tires were much wider than they are (225/40/17), and looking at the car the camber was way out of wack, that one wheel was pointing inwards and riding on the inside corner of the wheel (ruined a new tire). thanks for the info.
-dave

anyone know what the "hub" part is called, that you have to take the cotter pin out of and put a 20 mm socket on , that entire piece that the brake calipers go on and bolts to the strut? also the cv axle goes into it. the bearings in mine were trashed in a wreck and i need that assembly with the bearings in it (drivers side front) but i need to figure out what it is called before i can order one :D

so far ive thought of, hub assembly?

Looking for a front set of shocks, nothing special just need to replace due to damage in a recent wreck, also a complete tie rod and possibly a fender.
thanks-
-dave

45 minutes and went with the radio fuse T