6G Celicas Forums

I got an offer from someone who PM'ed me, I wrote back but haven't heard anything back, I'll give him until the weekend, unless you want to make an offer via PM'ing.

If I can't sell her as a whole then I will get back to you.


You're more than welcome to offer a price. I can't put a price on a 6 year relationship, haha.

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I used the bottom half from a 5th gen Celica because the top half is only held on with one bolt whereas ours is two as you can see on the right:


I have 94-95 seats and the holes from the 5th gen mounted up almost flawlessly, had to drill one hole I think it was on the passenger seat. The top half of the drivers seat is thrahsed now, it looks terrible, I really want to find 96-99 seats to match my 96-99 bumper lol. I also took black fabric spray paint and sprayed the bottoms to sorta match(not shown in pictures). Word of warning it makes the cushions not soft to the touch anymore even after frequent use.

Do the 6 speaker setups have the mounting holes for the 4" mid? I would love to throw a four on the door without having to cut a hole.

Maybe the regulators for the quarter windows are starting to loosen. I know my left/driver side one I have to press to the back so it goes up in the right spot. Take a picture and post it so I can see what you're talking about.

JEALOUS!!! That looks amazing!!

Where I have it circled I think that's the quarter windows plug, I unplugged it once and it most certainly stopped my quarter windows from going up or down. And the white plug to the right is for your rear speakers.

What kind of armrest is that? And what is that next to the key at the bottom?

-Yea the engine surge isn't overly bad, but it's definitely more noticeable in 3rd going around 25mph I can feel the car bucking more than at any other speed and I could only image what a by standard would say if they saw it happening, lol. I actually replaced the MAP and Igniter, ....could a vacuum leak cause that as well?

So I reset the codes by removing he EFI fuse for a minute, did the TE2 & E1 and drove around for a little like you said, no light came on, but when I do the TE1 & E1 I just get a fast blinking that doesn't stop now.

-Injector cleaner made the light go off.
No it does not run smooth while driving, I get engine surge, doesn't matter what gear or how fast. I use to have a low idle at 300RPM but that was fixed by installing an EGR valve.

The noise when I start my car is my starter, I just didn't know why it was doing that, definitely not a rod knock or piston slap.



-I've done air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil within the past 10,000 miles, but I haven't done the o2 sensor for over 100K miles, but should I do both or just the first/top one?




-It doesn't make that noise at all though when it's warm outside like today 54F.

So I just got this engine code today. What would be first priority to fix? 308,000 miles.

Book says:
Diagnosis - The air/fuel ratio is overly rich

Trouble Area:
Injector Circuit
Injector
Air Flow Meter
Cold Start Injector
ECM


As far as this engine noise, it only happens when it's pretty cold outside like low 30's or below.
http://youtu.be/EUxYJywN87k

Do I even have one? 1995 2.2L with an aftermarket Injen Intake. Someone told me I should clean it/replace it, but I don't even know if I have one. I know I have a MAP sensor. I'm so confused of why my car runs fine for like 30 minutes then after it warms up engine bucks/surges at idle, or even at a constant throttle speed. And sometimes even after my idle was raised it still drops down to 300 rpms after being on a highway for a while. IACV, Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, and Igniton Coil were replaced. No codes, I took out my EFI fuse for a few minutes to get rid of any codes that I had, and then ran the car for a little and then checked codes, but the engine light just flashed fast. I want to be able to drive long distances, and I can't in fear that my engine will leave me sit somewhere because of this issue.

thats controlled by the ECU. the IAC should be the same
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Well then I'm going to get one for an automatic, install it and then I'll let you know if it was ok. What's the worse that could happen, I send it back?

What is the difference between getting one that says it's for an automatic, and getting one that is for a standard transmission? They both look exactly the same. My car is standard, but they have cheaper ones out there for automatic, would it hurt if I just got the automatic one?

So you can definitely see where two of them would need to replaced.

Is this one part of the EGR system too?

New Vacuum Modulator.

Ooooo I did. I'm sorry.

It's not the TPS, because in our Haynes repair book 7 Flashes, Pause, 1 Flash Code 71 is EGR. It may just be the hoses, which I got replacement ones for but I broke of one of the vacuum modulator stems so I'm going to have to get one of those first and then replace the hoses. Then maybe the EGR valve and/or EGR gas temp sensor.

And that would cause the engine light to come on and off when it pleases? Have you seen this before?

7 flashes 1 pause. Advanced Auto said they couldn't give information on the codes, and that I should google it.

No




See it was on today and then on my way home it went off, so now I can't check it. But I got my paper clip ready.

So I am up to 301,000 miles on my engine(95 5sfe) and I've been dealing with the engine light coming on and going off when it pleases. Usually comes on when it's hot outside anything above 80 degrees and then usually goes off at night when the sun isn't shining and it's a little cooler outside. No rough idle, and it only back fires when I hit around 95mph(which is only when I'm on I95 going to a party in DC ) What could this possibly be? And what should I start replacing, now that I am over 300,000 miles?

Malhar95:

That's what mine looked like before I pushed it back onto it's track. Plus where I have it circled, that is now damaged too. Ugh. What would I expect though with 284,000 miles.

http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p88/Cwi...current=QW2.mp4
Video - Those three white things(I can't think of the correct term right now) all belong in/on a track. My middle one lost it's backing, so that's why mine is wobbly. I think it's attached to the window so I will have to buy a quarter window. Though the regulator looks like it it's going to break, so I might as well just get one of those too, haha.


Retainer....that must be what fell off the one in the middle.

It would be so much easier to fix if I could access from inside. But no we have that horrible little space to work with.

It's not off track anymore, but it's extremely wobbly........though I should mention when I went to put it up today it did fall off track and then I did put it back on track. I'll get more pics if you need them to diagnose the problem.

http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p88/Cwi...;current=QW.mp4


....Anyone from the Cherry Hill area?

Hardstyle and Hardcore(EDM Genres) that'll slam the woofers harder than any Dubstep tune.