6G Celicas Forums

i've lowered the price!

new pics!

1981...it's had a lot of things changed on it since it was born, so i'm not sure what it started off as, but it definitely wasn't a Z28. Previous owner swapped the fenders, hood, front bumper, rear end, and the motor (dropped a 350 in instead of the previous V6).



For $850 i couldn't pass it up. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the engine from the ground up...should be making 450-500 hp when it's done.

It is with a heavy heart that I am selling my 1996 Toyota Celica, but as I recently bought a muscle car, I have decided to put my tuning efforts into that and buy a DD with 4wd. I have taken extremely good care of this car over the 4 years I have owned it and she's never let me down. At 180,000 miles, the car runs, starts, and drives like a champ and looks sharp too. The interior and exterior are both very clean, and I've made small modifications to both. Front license plate mounts have been removed and then sealed over, I put mesh behind the front grille, swapped the OEM antenna for a shorter one, and I bought a set of 7th gen rims and tires. Inside, I've installed a Kenwood mp3/wma head unit with an iPod hookup. The instrument lighting has been changed from the ugly seaweed green to cool blue. I changed both the backlights for the gauges as well as all the LED's in the climate control, the LED on the driver's window switch, and the clock color. I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge to better monitor the engine's health, and have replaced the stock shifter with a short one. The car has snow tires on steel rims right now which will go with it when it's sold, along with the 7th gen rims.

I'm asking $2800...PM me if you're interested.

-Joe


***This car is also up for sale locally, so it's first-come, first-serve***

So i have a small dent on the roof of my car right above the driver's side back window...i've tried to pull it out from the outside using various suction techniques...no good. I think it'd work better to take off the headliner and just hammer it out from the inside...is there any way to remove the headliner without taking off the entire interior paneling? If anybody's done this before some help would be awesome.

-Joe

I'd have to say i have all of the "snow" pictures beat...




i swear, there's a silver celica in there somewhere

Anybody on this site from vermont? I don't seem to see that many new englanders, and haven't spotted anybody from the great green mountain state. There's gotta be at least one other member out there who has to deal with ~6 months of running your celica in obscene cold and a completely unreasonable amount of snow. C'mon there's gotta be at least one person....

This is probably the easiest thing ever, but my manual doesn't show how to do it...just says "bring it to a toyota dealer"...yea right...anybody done this before? They're fine for left to right alignment but just need a little tweaking on the vertical adjustment. Any help is appreciated.

-Joe

Last fall i patched the bottoms of my doors up really roughly just so my car would pass inspection and not rust through in the 683210789748935 feet of snow we got this winter. Anyways, I went back to attempt to do a more thorough job of it and found that the rust problem has grown to a more extreme level. Personally i think i need some new doors if i want to be rid of this problem. Judging by the pictures, what do you think?

i had the same problem when i bought my car, i disconnected the antenna. You have to pull a few of the trim panels in the trunk off to get to it but it's not that hard. I recently switched the factory antenna out for a shorter one that i bought on ebay. Looks a lot better than the big metal one sticking out.

thanks...where can i order them that cheap? the dealership here wants 20 bucks for one

I'm looking for the passenger side luggage cover rest/hinge in black. When i bought my car it only came with the driver's side one and it's been extremely inconvenient ever since. Any help would be awesome since the dealership wants an arm and a leg for a tiny part.

-Joe

The other day i noticed that my dome light only lights up when my driver's side door is open...i think this started pretty recently. Any idea what might have bit the dust and where it's located so i can revive it?

-Joe

i'm liking the hotwheels car idea...i'll keep you posted on how this goes

So, when I bought my car 4 years ago, the keyless entry remote was slightly damaged. I didn't think twice of it and it worked fine for me since then. Recently however daily wear and tear has made it impossible to use without it completely falling apart, which brings me to the current project...

The insides of the remote still work fine electronically, so I've removed them from the old plastic thing and now need to create a new housing. Any cool ideas? I'm either going to fabricate something cool looking myself, or use some kind of part from a car, but am currently at a loss for what would fit the bill.

Any and all ideas are welcome!


-Joe

I'm looking for the courtesy light for the trunk...it's on the driver's side. The clips on mine have all snapped off and it's just kinda hanging there. If anybody's got one kicking around the only necessities are that the trim is in black and all the clips are intact.

So i've removed the bulb from the little mount thing without any hassle, but when i've gone to test which way i should put the LED, I find that it will only light up for a few seconds before i goes dim and eventually dies...i've killed two LED's this way just to make sure that the first one wasn't faulty, and my best guess as to the solution is that i need to put a resistor in there with the LED. Anybody done this before?

-Joe

i'm having an incredibly hard time securing the stage gel that i bought to the plastic housing for the clock...i've tried hot glue, and elmers...neither is working. Any suggestions? I'm thinking that some kind of mechanical fastener rather than glue would be the way to go...

the LED's are all on the same harness...the defroster that's not lighting up is the one for the front windshield, the rear defroster unit actually came out amazing, put a blue LED in the bottom and changed the orange LED to red. Originally, i clipped the LED for the AC first and tested it out...nothing doing, but i used the same LED to replace another one and it works, which leaves me baffled as to why those two don't work...

So i'm in the process of changing the interior lights of my car, got everything done except the climate control unit, which is currently sitting in pieces right next to me. Now i've gone in and soldered blue LED's onto the terminals where the green ones used to be (i'm talking about the ones hard wired in to the board, not the twist in lights). The only issue is that only 6 of the 8 lights are lighting up. The only ones that aren't are the one for the windshield defroster, and the one for the AC...the polarity matches that of the LED's that i clipped off before, so i dunno what's up. Are they on a different circuit that requires another part of the unit to be plugged in?

If anyone has any experience with this sorta thing some assistance would be great....i'm so close to getting this project done.

-Joe

got it all sorted out...turns out when i spliced the wires in i didn't tape off all the exposed copper, and when the touched it caused a short...it was a 15 minute fix. thanks a bunch

Well i got my gauge all wired up and looking great, spliced into the dimmer circuit and everything. However, when i plugged everything back in , i blew the "panel" fuse in the box. Any advice as to what i should do now, besides get a new fuse...should i buy one with a greater (wattage? amperage? i dunno what the numbers indicate) or should i just get another 7.5?

i do have an aftermarket stereo, so i'll check for the wire there when i get the chance, probably work better since the gauge is mounted on the underside of the dash right next to the center console. I've heard that I should ground the other wire, and if so, to what?

good call, i'll see how it goes...

I recently installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge since I was tired of the idiot light. Anyways, everything works fine, except that I can't seem to find the wire to splice the backlight for the gauge into. I want it to turn on when the rest of my interior illumination turns on...with the first click on the headlight switch. Anybody done this before and know what wire to look for?

-Joe