6G Celicas Forums

u said earlier u had avc-r?! ??

3rd gen (st205) comes with ct20b. ct26 is fitted on the 2nd gen (st185).
The st205 alternator is 80 amp. I dont know how much it is for 3sge, i guess your 3sge is the 4th generation right? well u have to check that. But an alternator is not a big issue, shouldnt be a difficult task, but make sure u get the 80amp.

if u need any help to tune your avc-r, im here:) well we r all here!:)

i dont understand how i made 0.4 bar then:(

Concerning manual boost controllers, not all of them allow to lower boost. At least i can confirm u that AVCR allows me to lower it.

[quote name='injection' date='Nov 30, 2011 - 8:19 AM' post='942361']
Rav, is your boost controller Manuel or electronic, and will both do the same job?? ( lower pressure/raise pressure )
[/quote

The Apexi AVCR is electronic. But normally manual boost controllers also allow you to open the tap or close it. But the electronic one is more precise in calibrating boost. And they can both control the solenoid. If u want one for a very long period of time, get the electronic one.

i know that the 3sge and 3sfe's bolt pattern are the same. but 3sge need competition clutch and flywheel. However i think only JUN has the ultralight. Others have the simply lightweight. Theres a difference between ultralight and light. I would have gone for the JUN ultra.

i dont know if there is a fuel level sensor. all i know there is a floater in the tank which acts like a WC toilet water level floater:p

u will have to lower engine compression if u fit a turbo. A piggyback will be needed to tune it. But therez no guarantee, you might have complications:(

With my Apexi Avc-R i can lower my boost and run more boost. I ran 0.4 bar on full throttle 7000 rpm on 3rd gear. When i increased it i ran 1.25 bar on 650 rpm. A good boost controller can do both, lower and increase your boost mate.

I read that the standard spark plug for st205 is the 'Denso Iridium IK20'.
But if u intend to run more boost than the stock 0.9 bar, i would recommend you to get the ik22 instead as its a colder spark plug.
But personally i prefer the 'NGK iridium bkr7' which has the reputation of being more resistant. Thats what i am using with 1.2 bar boost and i cant complain.

Hi. In my Opinion;

Having a bigger downpipe will just help your engine to breath easier, in other words, a better flow compared to stock. But having a 3" downpipe will just give your engine more potential to make more power later. To make more HP, an optimum use of your new downpipe, would require an aftermarket manifold and a boost controller. Because such modifications will make u face other issues like boost creep or overboost and fuel cut. You may also like to get a better turbo and if possible a standalone ecu so that you take the maximum advantage of your new modifications. Such modifs should get u, I'd say like 50-60 HP (all together)!!!
But getting only the downpipe may only allow like 4-5 hp.
Downpipe + manifold may get u around 12 hp.
Downpipe + Manifold +decat may get u around 15-20 hp.
Downpipe + manifold + decat + new turbo + ecu may get u around 50 hp.
Downpipe + manifold + decat + new turbo + ecu + injectors may get u around 60-100 hp (depending on your tuning and engine capacity).

You may also modify step by step like i am doing, take ur time and get the maximum of your investment in the future. But you will need to tune your boost.

On my side i have bought a 3" downpipe and a manifold + decatted. But I had to tune the engine since I was reaching fuel cut and overboost on only 4500 Rpm.
I am taking my time but will surely get the other modifications as soon as i get some $$$

Easiest solution...get a boost controller. I personally have the Apexi Avc-r and it works very well. u can up your boost or down it. U can control it and set it as u prefer.
On the other hand if you dont want one, well u have to check everything again. There is a turbo hose under the car. When its connected directly u may often overboost. Its complicated for me to explaion that as im just an amateur lol

if i had the money, i would have gone for the jun stroker kit with pistons, crank and rods. my dream! my dream!

no check engine light on? normally it runs 5psi on limp mode.

No Sir its not a HOW TO...its a CAN WE !

@Lagos: Yes man i think thats the best solution if i fail to activate the oem wi.

@sunny: I'm praying that i get it activated. I have been researching on several forums and it seems to me that no one has been able to activate it yet. Concerning the ECU am 90% sure it can control the system. Bcoz last time i opened the ecu, when i grounded the 'winj' pin i heard a clicking sound coming from the wi injector...which confirms that it is indeed connected to the ecu.

hi. Thnx bro. so i better get a gauge meter to monitor the water pressure:) I havent been able to work on thw ecu yet. Have a friend who just bought the engine, i will try to have a look at his wiring before proceeding.

Yeah bro but i think the pressure problem was probably due to rust as it was a dormant pump. Or he located the pump too far from the injector as its a small pump and couldnt make it to the injector. it was probably located too far when he tried to activate it. I had to use my wiper tank (which is close to the intake) to get hold of enough pressure from pump to injector. At first the regulator refused to close once it was opened as u correctly said above. But i finally found the problem, it was rust once again. I got a softer spring and a new little metallic ball of the same size as the original one (very important; u can get it where we repair bicycles) and its finally opening and closing correctly. It working exactly like a fuel regulator.

Hi all. Im 90% done with the activation of the water injection. The pump is working, pressure is there. The regulator is finally working, but i had to open it, clear the passages, change the spring and the little ball bearing inside the valve as it was rusty and thank god they r working:) The only problem that i have to sort out now is to get the necessary power from the ecu to the injector. But thats a very sensitive issue. will let u know if therez any more developmentsXD

thnx mate. controlling the nozzle for the water injection system by an aftermarket ECU and pump is not a bad idea. If my pump cant give enough pressure i will thus have to get a bigger one. anyway i will try it this week and give feedbax.

True its easier to buy a kit, but i might save 800 bucks if i manage to get it running.

Thnx. Yea it has always been a subject of discussion but without any final positive answer. Lets try to sort out this problem once for all. On my side i have managed to activate the water pump, and its not dummy, it really works. I found out that the ECU had a pin labelled 'winj' which i presume stands for 'water injection'. I saw a green wire connected to the pin and i followed it to finally discover that it was connected to a little injector situated in the intake. I think only the pump needs to be connected to get it work. Im trying to activate and connect mine. Your 'helps' are most welcome. will keep u informed of any development. Thats y id like to know if someone u know managed to activate it. i personally think its possible. I noticed that the valve too needed to b activated. I opened it and found that the water passages were blocked. Am working hard on it.

Hi all. Anyone of you who own an ST205 WRC managed activate his or her water injection kit?

according to my information most gt4 owners use hks. I dont know about Apexi but my HKS holds boost pressure very well.