6G Celicas Forums

here's my take on it.

these drs don't know how to pop the hood of their car because they dont need to. Sure, they probably had to take care of their car back in high school or med school. But how long ago was that? Yes, they make plenty of money, but they also work long hours and don't have spare time for playing with a car. Essentially, their time is too valuable to bother learning about the car they have.

Also, they may not have an appreciation for the mechanical aspects of their cars, but rather an ascetic, visual appreciation for them.

I got something like that for mine and it was by far the best mod that I had done. Well worth the price.

Having just stepped from about 130 hp to about 270 hp, I can say that the number is definitely above 200 hp. I haven't really pushed the new car yet, but I have a feeling that I may be nearing that sweet spot. I think I agree with malpaso, 300 hp is probably about the top end of usable hp for FWD cars.

I had an '01 tiburon as well as my celica and I would choose the celica 100 times before the tiburon. It just doesnt have the torque that the celica does.

Welcome to the site. Read some stickies and familiarize yourself with whats out there. Odds are, whatever it is you're looking for, its been asked by someone before.

celica hatch is 174" frs/brz is 167" Yes, it is short.

Today, I will be saying goodbye to my Celica. I'm signing over the title in a little more than an hour.

Its very bittersweet selling her.

Great. Sorry I wasn't selling it when you bought the prelude.

Sorry, I know they're easy to take off. But I really don't want to have to deal with boxing and shipping. Plus, without the skirts, it will just make it that much harder to sell it.

I'll sell you the skirts for 2k and throw in the car for free

And I'm not really interested in any trades.

Well, its officially up for sale. Its gonna be sad seeing her go, but I think its time to move on. I don't want to part it out because of the time involved.
Link to album
White 1999 Celica GT Liftback with 178,xxx miles, 5S-FE with 5 speed MT. Asking $2000
I'll start with the bad. It has rust on the bottom of the driver's, and passenger side door as well as the hatch. The body has numerous dimples from a recent hail storm. There is a blown strut in the rear, i'm unsure if its the left or right side. Perhaps both?

The mods on this include Injen SRI, ebay header from surewin products, custom 2.5" exhaust (with Magnaflow hi-flow cat, vibrant ultra quiet resonator, Magnaflow Sport muffler), sokie tech hood dampers, 7th gen celica short shifter, aftermarket stereo with 8" JVC sub and unknown amp, Rear windows tinted 15%, and Vincent doggy gas cap cover.

The car still runs good and I have had no mechanical problems with it. I hate to see it go, but I feel like it is that time.






EDIT: Also, for full disclosure, in my 11 years of ownership, I remember changing the clutch and flywheel, front passenger wheel bearing, both rear calipers, the rear passenger rotor, plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, two or three batteries(current one is <1 yr old). And thats it.

EDIT: Sold

plus, paying a buddy in pizza and beer to help will save you a ton of time and money.

a gen 2. 2011 with tech package, short ram, and wheels off of a private party. After driving it only for a couple hours yesterday. Its just feels so much tighter and well put together compared to the celica.

Granted, a refreshed suspension would do wonders for the celica, but it was just to the point of not being worth the money I would have been putting into it. Plus, 2 carseats is a tight fit in the celica and crawling back there was getting really old really quick. I'm gonna hate to see her go too.

I wasn't thinking about the heat. But realistically, there's no reason that just new studs and nuts wouldn't work. If they don't I'd start looking to see what could be causing them to come loose.

both with short rams, but you get the idea.
5s-fe
7a-fe

yup. gotta be prepared.

Yesterday I drove and agreed to purchase a Mazdaspeed3.

That means as soon as we go through the paperwork today, the Celica is for sale.

Adding to Smaay's answer and taking it way farther than it needs to go.

If for some reason new nuts don't work, try loctite. If for some reason that doesn't work, and then try security locknuts. Now if this still isn't working, then nothing is going to hold it on and I don't even think that welding it directly to the head would work. In which case, you may need to start looking elsewhere for your problem(motor mounts or severe imbalance in the engine).

I may be outside of your driving range (st. louis), but as of tomorrow, I will have my '99 GT 5 spd for sale. 178k on the clock. I haven't worked out details on what I was going to list it for, but probably in your price range. It needs some work, but runs fine. Its just not 'pretty'

It recently underwent a golf ball make over due to a hail storm that moved through about a month ago, so there is probably about 5-10 dents in just about every panel. It has rust on the bottom of drivers , passengers door, and hatch. at least one of the rear struts is shot. the driver's side high beam doesn't work because somehow I think my last battery fried the wires to it. I think that's the extent of the bad stuff.

I need to get pictures taken still, but if you have any questions, let me know.

I meant 3/4" sockets and up. not 3/4" drive. Sorry for the vagueness.

I had been toying with the thought of buying myself a used 5sfe for my car so when something dies on it (timing belt, water pump, main seals, etc), I can just swap the entire shortblock instead of trying to fix it in the car. I don't know if that would really save me any time or not, but it may be cheaper to buy a shortblock and do the work yourself instead of having someone else change a timing belt.

Depending on your resources, it is another option you have. But definitely make sure that you know exactly what the problem is first and get prices for shops to fix that. That way you have a baseline to compare against.

I completely agree about the 1/2" drive stuff. It just doesn't get used that often. And when you need it, you likely need the large stuff (3/4" and bigger) But you also probably use your 3/8" stuff 10x more than your 1/4" stuff as well. Pliers and channel locks are required for those spring style hose clamps as well as other random things around the house. That is why I said that its a great general purpose set. Its awfully short sighted to only buy tools for your car and not for your house.

Its all a matter of personal preference though. I said earlier that my only problem with it was the redundancy. I personally don't need a set of both 6 pt and 12 pt, regular and deep sockets. Just give me 6 or 12 pt sockets. and this frees up a lot of space for more versatile tools to replace it with such as the extra wrenches, the screwdrivers, and pliers. Hell, package it along with a 16oz claw hammer, and you've got yourself a 90% complete general purpose set.

The one thing that both of these sets could use is a universal swivel adapter.

So in the end, its just a matter of preference. I just wanted to share this set for those that might need something a little more general purpose.

Yeah there's a quality difference. I even started with "I know this isn't a professional quality set". And I just said as someone just starting out, this may be a better catch-all, general purpose set. The pliers, channel locks, and crescent wrench will generally get a lot more everyday use than the extra 1/4" drive stuff.

They're both good sets, its just that I don't remember the last time I have been wrenching on something hard enough to actually break a tool, so I thought that it might be better to get a more versatile set at the cost of a little quality.

I know its not a craftsman set or professional quality tools, but about 5 years ago my dad picked up a Crescent tool set for about the same price. He keeps it in his truck for those random times when you need a tool. Its a little more of a general tool set with more wrenches, pliers, screw drivers, etc. but less sockets. Plus his favorite part about it is "you can easily see what tools you're missing"

I would recommend that set to anyone just starting out.

I hope that works for you. I personally have no problem fitting 1 child back there. But I recently just had a second, and its rough driving a stick with the driver's seat either straight up or scooted in from a comfortable position. I have a good idea of what you're going through, my pediatrician jokes with us that my 2 year old is a perfectly healthy 3 or 4 year old. She's about 95% in height and weight.

She's quickly outgrowing her seat too, but I'm going to try and hold her in it for as long as I can. Let us know what you end up getting.

I was interested in this once too. But I decided not to get it because it just has too many redundant tools and not enough of what I would use. I'm not knocking your purchase, but I personally don't need a lot of the pieces that fluff the total piece count.
For reference, here's a quick breakdown based on the parts list
65 pc 1/4" drive set
56 pc 3/8" drive set
11 pc 1/2" drive set
6 pc combination wrenches
1 pc magnetic handle
9 pc screwdriver bits
12 pc nut driver bits
40 pc hex keys

I'm selling it because I need a functional back seat. Getting 2 car seats back there is tight. Plus she's just starting to feel tired and big ticket maintenance costs (timing belt + shocks + etc.) are going to quickly go above the value of the car.

I'm sure it would be quieter without the header on (adding back in the additional cat), but some of the volume may just come from the larger pipe diameter that I am running. if i had the same setup with 2.25" or 2", it may be quieter.