6G Celicas Forums

I was able to locate some useful info on the distributor, individual internal components and their troubleshooting/testing procedures. (I'd like to upload it here for others' future use but don't see how it's possible to do so. If it's not, consider it a suggestion. In the meantime, I'll try to later post the links here.)

What I am still seeking is information about Ignition Control Module and if possible, any data or testing procedures.

The Ignition Control Module has 5 (unidentified) points of contact:
3 screw terminals (2 on one end, 1 on the other)
2 wire leads

I believe the 2 wire leads are it's output, connected to the coil primary.

Of the others, I believe at least one comes from the pick up coil
I'd guess one connects to the ECU (feeds to or is fed by?)
..the other?

Is it possible to, either in circuit or removed, test an ignition module using common, ordinary test equipment?

I have a crank/no start condition due to no spark. I suspect the igniter and, after testing all ignition components I could...

- I checked all fuses I thought relevant (plus a few more I thought weren't)
- No spark at a few plug wires tested
- No spark out of distributor cap
- Rotor is turning (belt OK)
- No spark directly from coil's high voltage terminal
- Coil's primary & secondary resistance measurements were within range
secondary very low end: 9000 out of 9.0-15.7 kilohms, but within range
- Pick-up coil ("Signal Generator") resistance measurements were within range

..have narrowed it down to the "Ignition Control Module" or the ECU itself.

I've located no "official" documentation about testing this igniter; only replacing it. Many say "The ignition module can only be tested using specialized test equipment." I'd prefer not to purchase & install a new one until I've confirmed it's definitely the problem.

The only thing I found that came close was a video demonstration using a probe or test light to test the igniter output at the coil's input. When cranking, I expected to find, either..
..the test light flashing on & off if the igniter were good
..if the igniter were bad, no light at all.

Instead, I had a steady dim glow that got bright a split second before cranking stopped. Not one thing or the other, how is this to be interpreted?

The only way I know of to determine whether the ECU is good is it's self-test when turning on the car. Unfortunately, due to another problem (a short in one of the lines) the dash panel/gauges currently don't work.

My hunch is that its the ignition module but how can I logically confirm which of the two is at fault?
Is it possible to, either in circuit or removed, test an ignition module with ordinary, general purpose (not specialized) test equipment?

Also, jumping the gun here a little bit but, assuming it is the ignition module again - and from what I've read this isn't an uncommon problem- might anyone know why? Is there something else that's causing this to happen or are these ignition modules themselves faulty?

Any leads to relevant documentation, input, suggestions are all appreciated.
Thanks

The car: 1995 Toyota Celica ST, 1.8L 7A-FE, standard shift

I was driving down the street, slowing to a light when -- as though an OFF switch were thrown-- the car suddenly shut down. Trying to restart, it'll crank but not turn over. It seems very similar (perhaps identical) to what I experienced years earlier in the same car when I ended up having to replace the distributor. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that this may be the case again. I've read this is a common problem with certain Celicas and the replacement distributor was from bone-yard.

...BUT...I had just done some work to the car the day or so previous and had only very briefly driven it once or twice since. This may be an unrelated, coincidental but, logically, I can't help but think that there may be some (direct or indirect) connection to the work I had just completed; something I forgot to reconnect, didn't re-tighten sufficiently, etc. I've looked it over, everything seems OK (and I have no extra parts left ). Maybe one of you might catch something I'm overlooking?

What I did:
Installed new..
..valve cover
..valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals
..spark plugs
..spark plug wires

oil change, oil filter, air filter
(spray) cleaned EGR modulator valve
(attempted to) clean the EGR valve

I've only begun to start troubleshooting and I have to double-check a few things to be absolutely certain but, offhand, the problem appears to be no spark.

What might I have done to create this condition? Any ideas?
Thanks

I'd appreciate if anyone could please direct me to where one might find information regarding the distributor used in a 1995 Toyota Celica, 7A-FE engine ...or similar used in other years or models.

Specifically, I'd like information about
the internal components/circuit path and/or
how to test/troubleshoot
either while connected or removed from circuit.

Any info, any format would be helpful and appreciated.

As usual, Thanks for any assistance.

(1995 Toyota Celica ST, 1.8L 7A-FE)

I had some cooling system issues. I believe I may have found and repaired the problem but while looking I noticed a few other things that got me thinking.

How can I confirm that the cooling system fluid is properly circulating?

Some say to run the car with radiator cap off and look for movement/turbulence. I see little to no "flow" or movement (in this or other vehicles). Any movement I do see seems more likely to be caused by engine vibration. What is a better testing method? Is inserting a thermometer into radiator and simply watching for temperature increase sufficient?


How to determine if electric radiator fans are properly functioning?

I've found info regarding other cars that fan operation is controlled by multiple sensors: engine temperature sensor, cruising speed, whether the AC is on or off, etc.

I'm guessing a simple enough test might be to drive the car a while, when assumed hot enough, stop, pop the hood and visually check whether the fan is running but because I was unable to have the emission test done, the car currently can't be legally driven. Will the fans kick on at idle and, if so, approximately how soon after starting (cold)? Suggestions?

Thanks

I think one of them is front and center, more or less, behind the radiator but where is a second one?
Hopefully not what I'm thinking of. I noticed some sort of sensor down below (on the exhaust manifold?) in front of the passenger side firewall. Is that it?
Thanks

There are more than a few known problems with this car (1995 Toyota Celica ST; 1.8L, 7A-FE) that I need to deal with and I intend to but, right now, I need to focus on passing the emissions test. I'm wondering if some of these other issues may, directly or indirectly, be the cause.

I'm failing the emissions check test due high NOx: 2624.4 with acceptable being around 1072.

• I filled up with premium fuel and drove it to dilute/ burn off fuel injector cleaner that had been added
  (Dont know if this would have made much difference but..)
• I repaired/reinstalled the air hose
  (which was torn, taped/patched,and might just as well not even been there. Air was directly entering, not via the filter or through any sensors.)
• The radiator is filled; car not overheating,
• I removed and thoroughly cleaned the EGR valve
• I removed and thoroughly cleaned the tube from EGR valve to exhaust manifold
• I removed and cleaned the EGR modulator valve (its filter, ports, etc)

It did drop each test and, by the third, it is significantly lower (around 1500) but still not low enough (1072) to pass.

I guess I'll have to replace the catalytic convertor next but is there anything else that could bring it down (almost 500) I might try first ?

A known problem I have is oil leaking into the spark plug wells and I think some might be getting burned.
Regardless, I intend to replace the valve cover gaskets, then oil change and filter, new plugs and wires, etc. but, in the meantime..
Would this (oil burning) problem increase NOx readings?
Would this (oil burning) problem cause the catalytic convertor to fail (which, in turn, would increase NOx readings)?

Thanks

I did eventually manage to get it off: both the EGR and tube. It seemed damn near impossible at first but it really isn't that bad provided
you have the right tools (long socket extensions and such) and
you're not unwilling to get in there and disconnect other hoses, cables, wiring etc. to gain access.

I'll try to get back later with better detailed description if/when I find time but, right now, though cleaning the EGR valve, tube, EGR modulator valve (its filter, ports, etc) decreased my NOx levels significantly, it didn't solve my problem!

I'm looking for a valve cover for a 1995 Toyota Celica ST w/ 7A-FE, 1.8 ltr.

I'm in Cleveland, Ohio area. Local pickup would be great but shipping it is fine with me, as well, depending on the price, etc.

Thanks

Is all this what's required to remove the EGR Valve?

If so, in order to get to the large nut that connects the tube to the valve itself or to get to the two bolts that connect the tube to the engine?
(Some folks say the latter is easier.)


The top two bolts are no big deal. I can (relatively) easily remove three of the four but the lower one closer to the drivers side I can't get a decent grip on with any socket, extension or wrench I've tried. Any suggestions, hints?

Also, I'm only try to clean it and don't yet, as far as I know, need to replace it. I've been able to clean up quite a bit without removal. For those you hear/read about with a great deal of built up crud where is it found? in the tube itself? the upper or lower section of the EGR valve?

Thanks

Anybody else?

Should you be able to see the rubber seal in this photo?

Might anyone have a photo of what it is supposed to look like?

When I was at the auto parts store today I noticed there was a sale on (both Platinum and Copper Classic) SplitFire Spark Plugs. It was a great price so I figured I might as well put in a new set. I told the salesman what I needed. When I did, another guy behind the counter overheard me tell him "'95 Celica" and kinda mumbled a warning "I wouldn't do it". I wasn't sure he was talking to me. I looked over, he stopped what he was doing and repeated "I wouldn't do it". I asked what he meant and got "I wouldn't put those plugs in a Celica. NGK." Someone else there agreed; NGK only.

I've see some others here use NGK, there's been talk about E3 Diamond Fires, etc. Sure, there are differences but I didn't think there was that much of a difference between one brand and another. Besides, I'd heard SplitFire's were supposed to be good plugs?

Anyone else here ever hear this (NGK only)?
Why would NGKs be so much better or more appropriate for use in a Celica?

Is this Toyota's recommendation or just opinion?

I'm another with the exact same problem; water in (DS high-beam) headlight.

At first, I assumed it was somehow travelling and getting into the bulb hole except that area remains dusty and never looks wet. You guys all seem to be saying that it's coming in the front and that it's all due to do loose/leaky/faulty rubber seals. I feel kinda stupid asking but.. what rubber seals?

Are the rubber seals you're talking about around the headlight assembly and hidden behind the bumper or can you clearly see yours from the outside?

Because if it's the latter, I'm getting the feeling that all mine are missing! That would explain a few things.

Should you be able to see a rubber seal in this photo?

Is the same window Motor/Regulator used for all 6 gen Celicas?

..for both ST and GTs?

...Coupes and liftbacsk?


(Most specifically, I'd like to know if 1994 Celica GT window motors can be used in a 1995 Celica ST liftback)



For anyone that needs this info in the future, I'll answer my own question:

Though I can't yet personally confirm this as accurate, according to the guy at the local Toyota dealership parts counter, yes, all 6th generation (1994-1998) Toyota Celicas (ST and GT, Coupe and liftback, etc.) use the same power window Motor/Regulator.

If someone, based on personal experience, has found this to be untrue, let's hear about it.

To where is the lead from the Oxygen sensor supposed to go?
(It's the 1-wire bolt-in type. )

I searched this forum and elsewhere before posting and found plenty about testing, replacing O2 sensors etc. but all assume the wiring is intact and OK. Would some of you please take a second to pop the hood and take a look. All one needs to do is locate the part and visually trace the wire.

I once saw a photo somewhere in which it seems to go to a connector mounted, I believe, somewhere near the radiator (I have no such connector) but then I also found a diagram that shows it going the opposite direction.

From mine there is several inches of wire to a broken connector and thats it! Coincidentally, I do have another mystery wire that comes from a wrapped bundle nearby that might be its other half but simply connecting them together on a hunch and hoping for the best is something I'd rather not do.

I planned to repair this anyway but now, the pressure's on as I'm not passing the emission test and I think this very well may be (at least, part of) the reason.

I see some of you have already had dealings with your O2 sensor but, for those of you who don't where it is, I've included a few pictures.

The first photo is zoomed out to show the general location; The O2 sensor highlighted in the circle. The second a tighter shot. Both photos taken from standing in front of the engine.



Electrically, I believe it runs to the ECM or first to the data link connector and from there to the ECM but what route does it take to get there?

So, with words or drawings or photograph —whatever works best for you— can someone please tell or show me the path of the oxygen sensor lead.

Thanks!!

I know that, because of the lockout controls etc. on the drivers side, in most cases, if there is a problem with ds controls/switch both windows will be affected. Are you saying that you found it to be true that if the passenger side window motor or switch is disconnected (entirely removed from the circuit) that the drivers side will also fail to operate?

So what's the latest status on this?
(Maybe you arent checking your Personal messenger messages?)

If the car is still available and you're still willing to pop 'em off and ship them, I'm still interested in buying some of your parts. Unfortunately, my list continues to grow but they are still mostly small lightweight things; tail lights, relays, harnesses, etc. I'd like to act on getting these parts soon so I'd appreciate if you could let me/us know one way or the other whether you'd like to do this.

Thanks

Well.. you could, but why..?

A box is a box is a box. No one really cares what the box says as long as the contents arrive in one piece.

If you start off behind the store and look near his neighbor's dumpsters, chances are, you'll find piles of the same thing they'll try to sell you at ridiculous, inflated prices. Same goes for bubble wrap and those horrible lil peanuts. It sure doesn't require any specialized skills to put something in a box, tape it up and label it. I just keep boxes and packing material from things I receive and recycle it by reusing it to pack/ship things I sell.

Also, for this sort of thing I've found USPS is as cheap, as fast and as easy and regular US Post Offices are everywhere. No matter how you ship you'll always get a record and receipt. No problems there.

Overpaying someone else to create additional, unnecessary garbage just so they can profit from it just doesn't seem too wise.

I don't know, they may've changed it but can't you set up a PayPal acct with a credit card alone?

Then again there's good ol' fashioned mailed money orders, C.O.D., etc.

The fact that you've told us so repeatedly is starting to give me the feeling that you don't want to do any shipping. What I'd like to know is if we can wear you down by continuing to ask you enough?

I certainly understand not wanting to ship an engine, tranny, doors and such but what about small, clean, lightweight, easily packed, convenient to ship parts like tail light lenses, door panel interior panel retainers/ screw covers, etc?

I'll pay for the shipping and even return to you the box, if you'd like!

This post is merely to say thanks.

I'm new here but, so far, it seems to me that this forum is what an "online user group" is supposed to be (but frequently is not); a "community".

I especially want to express my appreciation to snapshotgt, GriffGirl, Batman722 (and the rest) for supplying (or offering) the (very!)helpful, useful information. I don't know if I'll exactly be "enjoying" it, as having it will result in a lot more work but I sure do appreciate it! (Really appreciate it!...a LOT!)

Thanks again!

S

What is good source for electrical system schematics, a complete color coded, wiring diagram with connector diagrams, etc. for a 1995 Celica ST?

Book, paper, online, pdfs whatever.

(..Other than the Toyota shop manual that'd I'd prefer not to purchase for $100s)

Are you sure you mean a "relay"? I read that "Most window control systems are powered by a thermo fuse. A thermo fuse will cut power to the window circuit if too much electrical draw is being used."

Either way, relay or thermo fuse, I'd like to know where I might find it: built directly onto/into the motor housing or elsewhere?

I'm working on something related right now -- plus you may be needing this same info.

Would anyone have (or be able to direct us to where we can find) info regarding the Power window switch or connector 1995 (In my case for a Toyota Celica ST liftback passenger side)

Connector wiring:

• Solid Green
• Green w white stripe
• Red
• White w Green stripe
• Red w Blue stripe

I'm assuming this is:

• 2 to the motor
• 1 power supply pos
• 2 power supply negs

Have you gotten to the motor itself yet? what color are the leads?

...or on the other hand, can anyone identify the window switch's 5 terminals?

Thanks

A little background on this car:

The following do NOT work:

• Power windows (Power locks do)
• Air conditioning (blower fan does)
• Entire gauge cluster (tach, speedo, fuel, etc) and assoc. lights

Background:
I was told all was working fine then owner went on vacation a week or so and found it like this upon his return. He wasn't keen on the idea of paying hourly for unlimited electrical troubleshooting since he had to sell the car soon anyway due to moving. I no longer believe this to be the whole truth since I found the cracked open A/C relay with a screw crammed into the contact.

I realize there are all sorts of possible reasons for the AC or power windows to fail but (assuming what I was told is accurate) I think the key to solving this is that both the AC and power windows (I'm not sure about the dash) supposedly died at the same time.

Are they on the same circuit? Do they share the same, fuse, harness etc.? Could they all be caused by one common failure or might there be 2 or 3 separate issues?

I've found three fuse, breaker and/or relay boxes:

• driver's side dash panel
• driver's side under hood
• passenger's side under hood near wiper reservoir

I haven't yet personally finished checking all the fuses. Prev owner supposedly did.

- I don't recall seeing a fuse marked as AC or PWR windows. Do either of these share a circuit with something else and, if so, how is it identified?
- Are there more fuses elsewhere? Do either of these use a separate fusible link?

I read someone with a similar problem suggest that it may be due to a crimped wire running from door to dash. I'll be checking into that. Any help with the above questions much appreciated. Thanks.