6G Celicas Forums

RAN OVER A BOLT IN THE ROAD!!!!!!
Going to the police station in the morning to file an incident report, than calling my insurance to have the damage appraised and then going after the city for damages.
Last week I replaced the down pipe and nothing was wrong with the car, now this......
Went back to the intersection with my room mate and found that the bolt is exactly the same as Boston uses to hold down their circular plates on the sides walks and in the road.
There was a hole in the road where there is a missing plate about 25 feet from where I ran over the bolt. Pretty clear where this enormous bolt came from.

Damges:
Tire (sidewall, Look carefully you can see where the bolt went in)
Rim (HOLE from the bolt)
E-Brake cable (Cut into by said bolt)
Caliper Bushing (Torn off)

The engine has only ever run rough at start a few times. All of which were after I didn't use the car for a few days and it rained a lot. But I comes right out of it within 500 ft of driving. Other than that I've never had idle issues. OBD I scan tools are almost impossible to find and far too expensive for me right now.

Is there another way to measure the fuel pressure, other than with a scan tool?

I should be able to measure an aspect of that sensor to see if it's working properly, whether it be resistance or voltage from the sensor. I just read some articles about O2 sensors and all but one said that the O2 sensor has a voltage that ecu uses to determine the mixture of the air and fuel. I'm going to assume that it's dead if I have no voltage from the sensor.

Does anyone happen to know the voltage specs of the first O2 sensor? I'm guessing it's a slim chance of anyone knowing this

Yes, it's pretty gone, you'll probably see a bit of a power increase when it's replaced. But now you should figure out whats causing this before putting a new one in. I didn't do this a ruined one in a year... 300 buck down the toilet.

Thanks for that info stephen_lee. Now I get to figure out which one it is that's bad. Where I have the cali emissions 5s-fe I have 2 oxygen sensors. Does anyone know the resistance specs for the oxygen sensors for the 5s-fe?

Thanks for the responses

Things I know aren't wrong with the car (done or checked recently)
-Wires
-Plugs
-Compression
-rotor
-cap

Things I think could be wrong
-Air intake temp sensor
-Bad oxygen sensor, but this would send a code and there aren't any codes.
-Bad injector

How do I check the oxygen and mass airflow sensors. I assume if they are weak, not bad, they can still throw off the air fuel mixture.
Anyone know what the resistance specs are for these sensors?

The engine light has never been on. I just went out and checked for codes, there aren't any codes. The engine light flashes quickly when I bridge the TE1 and E1 terminals.

Last summer the first catalytic converter melted and clogged the second one. I punched out the second and replaced the first one since that is the one with 2 oxygen sensors connected to it. Since I replaced the cat I've put about 20K miles on my car. The cat. melted and got clogged again.

Does anyone know any reason(s) why this is happening?
-220K miles (2.2L)
-Engine is running at normal temp, never over heats
-Doesn't burn hardly any oil, maybe half a quart every 3,000 miles.
-It is eating gas, though i think that was from the cat being clogged and it needing extra to keep the engine running under the increased back pressure from the clogged converter.

Here is a pic of what it looked like before I punched it out today

Hey Everyone,

I'm starting to put together a book compiling all the write ups on how to do things on out cars. Let me know if there is anything else besides the write ups on here that you think should go in the book. Also please give a reason you think it should be included.

I will try to keep everyone informed on how its coming along.

I replaced the motor and all is well again

FIXED

Okay, so, on my way home from work i noticed my wipers were moving rather slow. so I put them on a higher setting and still they were slow, so I ignored it and put them back on the intermittent setting and then they stopped working in that setting. I then put them back to full and they work until i got to the gas station, when I turned my car back on they were stuck and now they won't work at all. I'm thinking the motor died.

Could there be something else wrong? I need opinions before I go buy a new motor.

Thanks. I've always wanted one that wasn't in the way when I plug something into it

How To Install Extra Accessory Outlet
I take no responsibility on you screwing something up. Make sure you do things carefully and pay attention to what you're doing.

In this add-on, I used an accessory port from a 2003 Oldsmobile Alero. I picked this because of the way it installs and folds away.

The outlet comes out of it holder by un screwing the back cap. This is needed to paint the plastic.

Painting the part will be required to match the interior color of your the celica. These outlets typically come in grey or a dark tan. I used a can of spray paint from
Wal-mart that was $0.96. Flat black; 3 coats and it seems to mostly match.

First a shape to trace onto the plastic is needed. I took the moving outlet out of the outer shell to avoid any extra annoyance. Place the
outside of the outlet face down on a piece of paper and trace (carefully to get the right shape as it will be needed to draw the contour line used to cut on)





Next hold the pencil tip against the part and shown. then remove the part without moving the pencil.



Make a dot on the paper where the pencil tip is. (This should be inside the oval you just traced, if its not, you're moving the pencil)



Do this as many times as you need to to get a good contour line (Dependent on your drawing skills. I used 4 dots)



Now draw a contour line as shown below.



The line that was just drawn is the one to cut on.



Cut it out.



Now, go trace this shape in the car. The spot I chose is one where it will work without hitting anything or moving other wires around
and its easy to be reached by the passenger.



Cut out the plastic using the tool you are most comfortable using (CAUTION!!!! BE CAREFUL TO NOT CUT ANYTHING BEHIND THE PLASTIC!)



Now Time to wire it in. I chose to use in-line crimp connection. On the outlet I got the orange wire is positive and and the black is negative.
In the our Celicas the grey wire is positive and the white with black strip is negative.



Now install buy pushing the part into the hole that was created for it. Some extra cutting may be required for fitment depending on how carefully you cut out the hole.





This is the ending result. it is advised to put some super glue under the outer edge of the part. The clips to hold it against the interior plastic due to the plastic in the
Celicas being thinner than in the car the outlet came from. I have no complaints so far, works like it should.

Maybe it was another forum......I'm searching the interwebs still

I remember reading a thread a while back about someone swapping in a newer amp from a different toyota/lexus. The thread also said something about the sound being better due to the newer amp. If anyone knows about this or knows what thread it is, please let me know. Thanks.

Installed a transmission I bought 2 weeks ago on ebay for $25.00.....That's right, Twenty-Five Dollars. Only 95K miles on it (Lost something in the last one up about a month ago...)

So, why would toyota put the cup holders there if that didn't work before???? Someone clearly doesn't look over history of design....

any other thoughts from anyone?

Okay, i thought about doing that as well, hopefully this weekend.

So....yesterday while driving around my transmission started making a clicking and clanking sound while moving. Then just before i got home it started to bind while clicking and clanking. I know my throw out bearing has been going for a while as it has been whining a while. All the gears seem to work fine.

What do you think is wrong, is it just that the throw out bearing is finally destroyed or is the whole transmission gone?

My friend got whats called a Quick Fit Harness for his car (BMW), I clips into the existing rear seat belt and front seat belt buckles. I was wondering if anyone knew where one can be bought for our Celicas.

Here is an example of what I'm talking about

http://www.soloracer.com/e36rallye4.html

On a liftback it's just above the toyota symbol
on a coupe it should be in the rear window

also some countries don't require third brake lights as seen here

When I ordered my clutch from Napa a few years ago, it was an Exedy clutch kit. Also the factory clutches do last forever, mine lasted 178K miles although I did drive mine until I could almost sit and idle in gear at a stop sign.

Does anyone know what the drive train loss is in our cars? I can find it all over the internet for the 7th gen, but not ours. Idk how safe it is to assume that our drive train loss is the same or about the same as it is in the 7th gen.

are your rear calipers sticking? excessive drag on the rear would cause them to wear faster.