6G Celicas Forums

My celica has been throwing code 52, Knock Sensor, for a while now. When the code first came about I replaced the ATS knock sensor that was on it with another ATS knock sensor that I bought from ATS. Due to the code not going away I first checked the connection to see if it was connected properly, everything checked out fine. I had enough of it so I took the car to a real good electrician in my area. He said that the problem doesn't lie with the sensor, but with the ECU; it isn't reading it. He told me to find out what was used to program the ECU and then he could help me. This is what led me to question, is it really my ECU that is doing this and how can I figure out for sure where the problem?

I currently have a 91 e153 (non-lsd) transmission in my car along with the 3sgte swap.

My question is: If I wanted to get a LSD transmission, would I have to change any parts off the non-lsd transmission swap? Or will all the parts that were required to get the non-lsd transmission to work, work with the LSD transmission?


The person that is selling the transmission is selling all of this as a package [$1600, without negotiating]

e153 LSD JDM transmission (~50 000 miles)
Set of e153 LSD Axles
Set of Alltrac Axles (new)
Alltrac shifter cables
Alltrac Front back crossmember and mounts
Alltrac drivers side engine mount
Alltrac shifter linkage assembly
Alltrac shifter fork and clutch slave cylinder with lines


I do know that I will need the axles, but would I need anything else?

Thanks,
Toni

You know, I was thinking about that before I did my code read out. I will check my vac just to be sure though.

I did a code readout and it gave me 41.

According to this http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-code...1%20Decoder.htm it is the

Throttle Position Circuit Fault

Before this began happening I was in the process of changing out my old turbo for a rebuilt turbo because mine went bad. So, while i was waiting for my turbo to come in I was re-wrapping some of the wiring that was all ugly looking. There were also a few connectors that were just sitting in the corners of the engine so I cut them and electric taped them together (my 3sgte was swapped into a celica). I checked these wires before I cut them to make sure that they weren't connected or used for anything on the car. Anyway, the car was sitting for about a month before I had the chance to get the new turbo in.

Now, the problem is that when I started the car it continued to rev up all the way to red line.. My guess is the throttle position sensor somehow went bad.. Here is a video of what happens when I start the car:

MVI_2620.mp4 video by pooper7 - Photobucket

I disconnected the tps and put it back on and now this is happening:

MVI_2622.mp4 video by pooper7 - Photobucket

Any opinions on what could be causing this problem?

Thank you such much guys, I'll get back to everyone when I check all these possibilities.

Okay, lets see how I can explain this. I have a 94' Celica ST with a 2nd Gen 3S-GTE engine swap.

Everyday I start off by starting the car and letting it warm up for a couple of minutes, I pull out of my driveway, or wherever I am, and I get the car going in first just enough so I can shift into second, When I get on a road where I have to give the car a lot of gas the car doesn't really go anywhere. My boost gauge is reading 13psi as I have the car floored, the engine is working really hard, but the car will not go anywhere.. What I do to temporarily fix the problem is shut the car off and turn it back on, it usually takes a couple times of turning it off and on, until the car eventually begins pulling and everything is back to normal.

So, my question is what factors could be causing this, for better words, lack of pull? Is it more likely to be an electrical or a mechanical failure somewhere in the transmission, etc..

Thanks in advance,

-Toni

I don't see why not!!


94' ST Hatchback
3SGTE Swapped into her, Primax Type 618 Rims, 20% Mirror Tint. TURBO
Eventually upgrade to a bigger and more bad-ass turbo and FMIC for intimidation
Since I bought her electrical problems up the ass, but took it to my amazing electrician and vwalla, fixed.

I highly doubt that is how the hood is for everyone who "upgrades" theirs. Hmm.. looks real good though , just need to get it to shut even now =D.

That looks amazing! Another job well done .

Hehe TRD,

Yeah, its not on the bumpers, on the very bottom of the fenders.. my bad . It's rusted into the metal a little bit, but yeah I'm just gonna sand it and paint over it. Just finished sanding and painting the rust underneath the hatch.

Didn't write a How-To, I got frustrated after running to Auto Zone like 3 times because I kept forgetting things >.<.

Prep:




Painted:

About to go to work on my hatch and bumpers. When I open my hatch there is this spot at the top that is rusted, but not rusted enough to make holes in the car. Also, there are 4 tiny rust spots on my bumpers (2 on the front and 2 on the back) that I am going to sand down and repaint.

I will get pictures up as soon as I get this started. I dk, maybe a "How-To" on removing the hatch will come along with this .

Another site that you could check out is Superbright LEDs

Pictures of how bad the damage is? I'm pretty sure that a few members on here can sell you a wiring harness. I know that I've read that some have them, just wait for the right person to read this thread .

Found something real quick just by googling it. I don't know if this helps you but here you go:

Quick Release Wheel

Also, here is malpaso's How-To on swapping steering wheels in case it would help:

Malpaso's

Yeah, it'll turn into the first 6gc TRANSFORMER! w00t!


I'll see what happens if I spin it.

It's probly useless than, considering that my car doesn't have an alarm on it. As for the scramble boost button, that would be located under my radio, it's a flip switch that says n0s on it

Hehe, okay, cause I started my car up with the wires on it and off it, I didn't see any difference.. I even pressed the button a couple of times.

How important is it that this button is hooked up? It sits underneath the steering wheel on the left side of the car interior. Before I yanked it out on accident it was sticking out of the panel that is set there. There is another one just like it, but that one sits a little further back.





These wires were the ones hooked up to it. One is gray and the other one is black with a gray line on the other side.

That's the name!! Thanks batman, I completely forgot the name of it xP. But yeah, the voltage regulator was bad.

I had problems with my car when I first got it. It just kept draining the batter and pissed me off.

Before I took it to the electrician I took a test light to every fuse in the fuse box and found out what that was powering. This would be my advice to you before you go taking it to an electrician. That is, unless you can find an electrician that will fix it for cheap like I did .

You should feel real special. This is one post that is really long that I have read

Amazingly easy write-up, now I know more about my 3sgte swap .

Yeah, if you're rich go for it , just be sure to post up some pics of you doing the swap!

Not if you were like me whereas my car's air/fuel gauge was reading rich all the time, but it is because it was never hooked up to the o2 sensor.. Bastards

Hope you fix the problem!