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Posted by: Defgeph Oct 15, 2010 - 9:48 PM

Hey guys,
So I decided to start tucking my engine bay.
I didn't expect to go as far as I am now, but once I started hiding things, I wanted to hide more & more stuff. I'm not going to the extreme like coomer did, just wanted to clean up the motor a bit.


Engine before I started the tuck, it was neat, but I wanted to venture further.


I started with the passenger side, because its the easiest.
I had to remove the fenders, front bumper, and eventually the hood.



I will get better pics tomorrow, my camera ran out of battery.
Here is a blurry cellphone pic of the frame rail tucked.



I'm happy with the results, then the wiring to the alt and O2 sensor started to annoy me. lol
So I jumped in on the drivers side


Here is some of the tuck and the relocated fuse box


I can't believe how time consuming this is. I have the engine harness out of the car now, I will rewire the entire harness so I can completely hide it.

Blurry pic warning, its getting there.




I still have a ton of work to do on it, consider that the almost half way point, still plenty of things to hide and relocate. I have a feeling I'm gonna pull the engine
I will get some better pics tomorrow.

Any suggestions ?

DEF

Posted by: jcbass7 Oct 15, 2010 - 9:54 PM

lookin good! Its so easy to get hooked on tucking things and get carried away. The results are always worth it though. I noticed you shortened the washer fluid resevoir neck like I did on my old 3s hatch.

Keep it up

Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 15, 2010 - 11:21 PM

this means your not selling and making a comeback?

dont hide the engine... lol

Posted by: jordisonjr Oct 16, 2010 - 12:46 AM

I'm curious as to how you did this
I know its a pretty straightforward process but seems pretty difficult.
Did you have to extend all the wires to hide them?

Posted by: whatthe Oct 16, 2010 - 5:58 AM

Very nice work will keep an eye out for updates too

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 16, 2010 - 9:52 AM

I'm going to try and re-route the harness first, the hardest wires to hide are the few running to the fuse box. Everything else should be easily laced around the engine. The only wires that bug me are the set running over the top of the engine to the altonator. I will take some more pics in a little while.

I'm going to try and keep extending to a minimum. The more I think about this, pulling the engine out will make things much easier to wire.

Posted by: presure2 Oct 16, 2010 - 10:18 AM

lookin good so far man!

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 16, 2010 - 4:35 PM

Passenger side




Drivers side





I have decided to pull the engine out, in the next couple of weeks. I will clean it, rewire it, clean the firewall, re-route the harness entry, mount a new smaller fuel filter.

Posted by: jordisonjr Oct 16, 2010 - 5:10 PM

Where did you tuck everything?
Under the frame rail or something?
Sorry If that's a dumb question, I just love the look of a tucked bay, but have no idea how to do it haha.

Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 16, 2010 - 5:17 PM

^^ i think hes doing a wireless conversion.

no, jk it goes under the chassis.

Posted by: stl95celica Oct 16, 2010 - 6:59 PM

AHHH! ive been wanting to do this. looks great mane!

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 16, 2010 - 8:35 PM

So far I re-routed the body harnesses to the fender wells. As for the engine most of the wiring will be routed to the lower rear of the engine, then to their proper locations. The rest of the wiring runs to the EA1 plug in the fuse panel, I will probably run that part under the frame rail. Or I will run it into the drivers side fender well, to plug back into the fuse box.


I need to buy an inline fuel filter, I removed the stock filter. Those fuel lines will also be cleaned up. I also need to find a very small coolant reservoir, I tossed the stock one.

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 16, 2010 - 9:11 PM

I think I'm going with this filter, small black, easy to hide.



Fuel Filter, Competition, -8 AN Male In/Out, 3.250 in. Long, 1.250 in. Diameter, Black Anodized


I need some help figuring out what size fuel line to buy. I need a line from the new filter to the stock fuel pressure regulator. Can you guys help me out.

Thanks guys

Posted by: Bigblock Oct 16, 2010 - 10:14 PM

-8 AN inside diameter is 7/16 or 1/2 inch. Depends on brand.
Jegs & SummitRacing have hard line { aluminum, steel, & stainless steel } in blue, red , & natural colors, & adapters to connect to AN fittings to // from hard lines.

If you want to go braided lines, they have stainless steel braided, & synthetic rubber braided with nylon fiber. The nylon fiber made by Russell is black with a lil blue stripe in it about every inch or 1 1/2 inch.

Earl's has all black synthetic rubber with the nylon braid.

Go to Jegs.com & Summitracing.com, look in the "plumbing" sections.

All depends on what ya go with. I use summit & jegs for our other car's performance parts & to compare prices. They are pretty competitive, so if you call the tech lines, they can answer more direct & factual if you decide to call.

Fittings can be had in black, black//nickel, red//blue, blue, & nickel finish.

IDK what size the stock lines are or what the fuel pressure would do using different sized lines.

Posted by: 95CelicaST Oct 17, 2010 - 1:03 AM

Word of advice... since I've been there and done that...

Fusebox in the fender will result in it filling with water... and then shutting down while you're driving down the road. Coomer did it to the Yelli Celi, and I paid a large sum of money to have the harness redone to put the fusebox back in the bay.


Unless you aren't ever EVER going to drive in the rain.

Posted by: jordisonjr Oct 17, 2010 - 1:09 AM

And you've done most of this with only removing the fenders bumper and hood, without cutting and extending the wires?
Where will you run the fuel lines, under the chasis as well?

Posted by: Johnnyny Oct 17, 2010 - 1:31 AM

waterproof?

Posted by: 95CelicaST Oct 17, 2010 - 1:37 AM

Yeah. I thought I waterproofed mine... Water will still find its way in.


Unless you want to make it SO waterproof that you have to remove the fender to change a fuse... which would be retarded.

Posted by: Johnnyny Oct 17, 2010 - 2:48 AM

tru water will find its way

Posted by: hurley97 Oct 17, 2010 - 9:11 AM

I don't think Jeff needs to worry about water, he doesn't drive the car in any weather anymore

Good to see you around again, long time no see. I hope everything else is going ok

Posted by: njccmd2002 Oct 17, 2010 - 10:18 AM

Move the fusebox to the trunk?

Posted by: Stambo Oct 17, 2010 - 10:42 AM

did you already remove the charcoal canister also?

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 17, 2010 - 1:03 PM

Charcoal canister was tossed when I did the swap.

I'm going to mount the fuel filter on either the firewall or the side of the frame rail. I'm just going to shorten the fuel line a bit to make it tighter to the body.

I have thought about the water issue, I don't drive the car much, but rain is always an issue. I will block off the fuse box completely. My Idea it to access it from pulling back the fender plastic. Again not a daily driver, I avoid rain, so I'm not worried. If something breaks or goes wrong I will fix it.

The body harness can be done without cutting anything, just removing fenders and re routing everything. The engine harness is the hard part.

I should note, THIS CAR IS NOT A DAILY DRIVER.

I will be ready to head up to RI & Mass in the spring

Posted by: SupraKid Oct 17, 2010 - 5:20 PM

I would recommend a CAI.

Posted by: DEATH Oct 18, 2010 - 8:36 AM

Awesome job Jeff - I'm very impressed. I still have that MR2 overflow for you but in case you haven't heard I've run into a few spots of trouble with mine.
I'll try to get over there ASAP

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 18, 2010 - 10:48 AM

no rush dude, I wont be done for a while.

Posted by: DEATH Oct 18, 2010 - 4:40 PM

Hey bro - one thing I do see - stretching the throttle cable that high will cause the car to redline 3 secs after you start it.
Ask me how I know

Posted by: 95st-celica Oct 18, 2010 - 7:30 PM

Hey def, this is gonna look great when its done, however the only problem i see with it is, if you ever DO happen to blow a fuse, its going to be the biggest PITA to change out. i mean, other then that theres really no draw backs, and i dont see how you would be able to extend it a little further for it to be out of the way yet still accessable.

keep this updated though, im really curious to see how it will turn out.

looking good so far though man.

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 18, 2010 - 9:24 PM

The throttle cable has been routed that way for 3 years with no problem. I'd like a different cable though, something I could hide. If anyone has any ideas let me know.



It would be nice to move it else where but I have nowhere else to hide it. The fender seems like the only place to put it. I agree blowing a fuse will suck, changing a fuse will just take a little longer.


Need a hand here, I'm doing the wiring in my kitchen 2 hrs away from the car.

Which plug is for the altonator? and what is the other one for ? AC?


Thanks guys

Posted by: Johnnyny Oct 18, 2010 - 9:51 PM

maybe a cover for the fuse box

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 18, 2010 - 11:34 PM

one more






Two of the wires were already cut in the harness, I just cut them closer to the plug. Last wire is black, tied in to one of the conversion splices. Do I need this plug?

Posted by: presure2 Oct 19, 2010 - 7:56 AM

neither of those look like the ALT plug to me, jeff.

that last one looks like my o2 plug

Posted by: DEATH Oct 19, 2010 - 8:51 AM

Did you do the mod to the throttle cable stay on the Valve Cover? What engine/car does your throttle cable come from? Mine is retarded sensitive to position. If I just have mine running over the IC Piping the wrong way it changes the idle. I too would like one that is able to run somewhere more descretly and perhaps not so sensitive to the positioning.


They aren't - I'd be glad to run out and take a pic and text it to you if you'd like. Do you have pic text?

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 19, 2010 - 9:48 AM

Take a pic for me I can receive pics, That cable, is just a stock GT cable. I have a throttle cable extender installed. I don't have a pic, but it moves the base of the throttle adjustment back like an inch and a half.

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 19, 2010 - 10:39 AM

Another one, located in the cabin. I think it has something to do with the AC from the 5th gen. I'd like to know if I can remove this.

Note: I do not have AC

Posted by: stephen_lee Oct 19, 2010 - 11:37 AM

the triangle 3pin IS infact the alt plug on a 5th gen. I removed that plug from DEATHs setup.. it was plugged into a jumper harness to a different style round 3pin. that blue/clear plug is for the a/c. im about 80% sure.

Posted by: presure2 Oct 19, 2010 - 11:53 AM

thats what i was telling him in the chat, on my 2nd gen harness, instead of that triangle plug, its a large oval one.
maybe its a 90-92/93+ thing, or maybe a RC thing.

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 19, 2010 - 1:22 PM

So if both of u guys removed this plug for a jumper harness. Does that mean there is another plug directly on the back of the alt. Meaning the female side is part of the alt unit? From memory I don't remember there being another plug. The wires run into the
Back side of the alt.

I appreciate the help fellas I don't want to remove the wrong wires.

Posted by: presure2 Oct 20, 2010 - 6:44 AM

jeff, i never removed the triangle plug, i just have a diffrent style of plug.

you can see the plug for your alt in your earlier pics.

Posted by: lagos Oct 20, 2010 - 7:19 AM

Thats the EB1 plug (if i recall the name correctly). You can cut off the connector and ditch the plug.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/defgeph/IMG_6678.jpg

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 20, 2010 - 3:43 PM

I guess I'll just run two separate looms for the for those two that run down to the alt. When I get back to the car, I will cut the one I don't need. I'm close to finishing, I have to run new alt wires, extend the couple of wires on the EA1 plug and extend the AFM wires a little so I can hide them better and I should be all set.

Thanks for the answers guys.

Posted by: easternpiro1 Oct 20, 2010 - 6:25 PM

def. youre my hero.

Posted by: Defgeph Oct 20, 2010 - 9:32 PM

Can somebody take a measurement of the engine bay? I need across, fender bolt to fender bolt, and firewall to the back of the headlight. I want to lay out the engine bay on my kitchen floor.

Many thanks.

Posted by: azian_advanced Oct 21, 2010 - 1:10 AM

Posted by: EKAn Jan 3, 2011 - 12:20 PM

Any updates?

Posted by: Ted95 Jan 3, 2011 - 4:43 PM

x2

Posted by: ChfNix Jan 4, 2011 - 1:18 PM

X3!!!

Posted by: richee3 Feb 6, 2011 - 11:31 PM

^^^ x4.

Posted by: 95st-celica Feb 7, 2011 - 1:18 AM

x5...whats the deal def....i want to see this thing completed...

Posted by: Defgeph Feb 7, 2011 - 9:35 AM

Once spring time gets here, I will finish this project. To cold to work on it right now.

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 11, 2011 - 11:50 AM

In the process of gathering all parts needed to finish this project.

As i do not have direct access to my car I need some help with the fuel line. I'm thinking about buying this kit to replace my fuel filter. I like the idea of a whole kit, takes out a lot of the guess work.
Will the banjo fit the stock pressure regulator ? Its a 5/8-20 banjo fitting.......

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8103/

Posted by: Ted95 Apr 11, 2011 - 12:23 PM

i talked to manny about this the other night (sorry forgot to get back to you) the biggest thing that we would need to find is a filter that can handle the amount of fuel our fuel pumps will be pumping. im guessing with the 3s swap you have a 255l pump as do i. all of the filters ive found only pump 130gpm, which isnt enough to handle the 255 pump.

idk what the specs on that filter you posted is bc the link didnt work for me, but if its pushin 130gpm like the ones ive seen, then it prob wont work that well. we dont want fuel restiction with this motors lol.

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 11, 2011 - 12:29 PM

Couldn't find out specs on the filter. Still looking. Try the link again

Posted by: purplegt4 Apr 11, 2011 - 12:30 PM

why wouldn't that work?

130 (US gallons per minute) = 29 526.2119 liters per hour

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 11, 2011 - 12:39 PM

Here is a link that can handle 150 PSI of fuel , if your worried about delivery.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-960001/


The only thing that worries me about this kit, its for use with a mechanical fuel pump and carburetor.

Posted by: Ted95 Apr 11, 2011 - 12:43 PM

oh ya it is per hour for the fuel pump lol. maybe it would work then, i mean im not 100% sure, ive only recently started lookin into it when i searched threw this thread and coomers thread.

id just like to make sure that if i were, or any of us were to do it, that we wouldnt restrict any fuel you know, because that could cause major problems down the road you know. do u think it would work?



ya now its just a matter of proper fittings and lines like you were asking before.

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 11, 2011 - 1:00 PM

Looking for black on black my friend.

Called summit to find out specs on the kit 130gpm, 75 psi max. Anyone know what the fuel pressure is on swaps running winebro pumps?

Posted by: Culpable04 Apr 11, 2011 - 6:53 PM

stock fuel pressure is 33 - 38 PSI

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 12, 2011 - 9:09 AM

Anyone know the size of the banjo connected to the fuel rail? Is there one on the rail? I can't remember.

Posted by: CoreyST Apr 12, 2011 - 12:29 PM

This looks so good, I can't wait to tuck my wires (once the swap happens)

Posted by: Ted95 Apr 12, 2011 - 3:20 PM

so then this should work right?

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 12, 2011 - 4:12 PM

Its should work just as long as the banjo is needed on the feed side of the rail and the banjo is the correct size. I cant remember how the fuel is fed to the rail.

Posted by: presure2 Apr 12, 2011 - 5:50 PM

They are all 12x1.25 threads Jeff.

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 12, 2011 - 6:16 PM

I might just keep the stock filter and lines for the time being, I don't like trying to figure stuff out when its not in front of me.

Posted by: Ted95 Apr 13, 2011 - 9:58 AM

Ya I understand what u mean, your in a tough spot considering your not with your car lol. I'm going to continue to look into it but I prob won't do it completely until after my swap, that way there's no issues. Ill fill you in on anymore info I might find.

Posted by: Defgeph Apr 20, 2011 - 10:59 AM

Just waiting on parts now. Half the wiring is done, I moved the fusebox back to stock location just to be on the safe side. Just have to extend about 15 wires. Hopefully it start without any problems.


I wanted to move some gauges too

Posted by: Defgeph May 15, 2011 - 7:15 PM

Need some help guys, two issues so far

The harness is back in the car engine turns over but I'm not getting fuel. The fuel pump doesn't turn on during normal operation. I jumped FP and B+ and the pump comes on but stops running once I start cranking in jumper mode. I'm not sure where to start looking, I tried to keep track of all the wires but this project took me 6 months to complete. I need help tracing out the wires for the fuel pump. Basically I need pins and colors to check.

Second issue,
My stock engine temp gauge jumps all the way to H once I turn the ignition key.

Everything work fine before I started, I need your help to find out where I messed up.

Thanks guys

Posted by: DG_Performance Jun 15, 2011 - 9:26 PM

water coolant... the middle 16 pin ecu plug... #4 should be a red wire
fuel pump... the 22 pin ecu plug... #6 green with red
i dont remember how you fuel pump was wired but make sure your COR and FPR relays are plugged in before you start diging into possible wire breakage!

the water one is easy fix. it pegs hot cause not getting any signal at all. broken wire or not connected.
fuel pump depending on where you cut could be problem in few areas? you would have to tell me where you were cutting for me to narrow it down to make it easy for you to find.
start with that above and see what happens... you got my phone number if you need harness tech help.
DG

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 4, 2015 - 8:12 PM

Bringing this back from the dead. I can't believe its been 5 years since I drove my car. Holy S**T.

I'm slowly putting it back together, I have the harness plugged in from the cabin to the fire wall. The hard part is next, I have a few plugs that need to be identified. I'm not sure if I need them or not. I did away with tucking the harness, just going to clean it up and get the car running. I'm itching to drive it now. I'm going to work on it some more tomorrow night, hopefully have the harness at 90 to 100% installed.

If you wiring gurus could look at these pics to help me figure out if i need these plugs back in my harness or not, that would be awesome.
I'm going to re-read this thread. I think I asked about these plugs already.

Edit: yeah I did ask about some of the plugs. I'd like to rule out the three in the picture

Posted by: Batman722 Jun 4, 2015 - 8:59 PM

Bout time mang.
Congrats on getting married !

Middle looks like an 02.

Put up some wire colors with them.

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 5, 2015 - 6:01 AM

Thanks Dustin!

I will try to get the rest of the pictures up tonight. Here are the wire colors to go along with those plugs. From what i remember, which isnt much lol. I cut out plugs that werent connected to anything. But I could be wrong.

Posted by: richee3 Jun 5, 2015 - 6:56 AM

Awesome to see this thread revived and see you're getting back into the game!

Posted by: Smaay Jun 5, 2015 - 8:48 AM

the top plug looks like the noise filter that is mounted right next to the igniter

middle plug is the the one that goes to the AC condenser

bottom plug is the AC pressure right by the firewall. the one thats on the AC line

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 5, 2015 - 4:23 PM

Thanks guys. I"m happy to get back in the game.

I only have 1 O2 sensor and that wire is accounted for. I don't have AC so that can stay out then. I will have a couple more pictures of plugs tonight. I'd like to get this thing running by next week. Fingers crossed

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 6, 2015 - 2:47 PM

Need a little help with this wire blue with black stripe, can't find the other end. Not sure if its a left over from the 7afe.

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 6, 2015 - 6:22 PM

Couple more wires that I need help with.
The black with yellow stripe is from that blue plug, the white wire goes to the alternator, Black with white stripe in the third pic. Fourth pic shows the wires I have left at EA1, plus the black with blue stripe from previous post.

Posted by: presure2 Jun 7, 2015 - 10:48 AM

blast from the past!!!
good to see you back in the game hommie!!

so, from what i remember of the 2nd gen game, the black with blue stripe is gonna be power signal to the starter?
IIRC the blue plugs on the 2nd gen are either a: TVSV or B: TVIS .
like you said that white wire should be 1 of 2 that go to the alternator, power wires iirc.
i have my old 2nd gen harness that i ripped apart still attached to the cardboard i laid it out on when i stripped all the unused systems outta it, kinda like what you did, just not tucking stuff, i just removed all the things i knew i wasnt gonna use.
if ya think that'll help in any way dude, just pay shipping and ill send it right up to ya.
we gotta get art in here dude, he is the 2nd gen wiring guru at this point, i think he could prolly wire a 2nd gen 3s from the ground up in under an hr he knows that wiring so well..lol

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 7, 2015 - 11:15 AM

To be completely honest Manny. I'm trying to get this thing up to CSP. I want to have some fun again.

I have the starter wired up already, not sure if its correct, but I believe I didn't mix those wires. I have 3 wires left at EA1, and three wires at the other end of the harness. Like you said one is for the alternator. The other two I don't know, colors are different on both ends.

I'll hold off on shipping the whole harness for now, I think it will run with this harness, just a matter of putting the puzzle together correctly

Posted by: lagos Jun 7, 2015 - 12:20 PM

Welcome back Jeff.

I haven't looked at this stuff in ages, but do you have both the 6th gen, and the 3sgte wiring diagrams? That might help with figuring out the wire colors.
Id also plug everything in and see what works and what doesn't before trying to figure out every single wire.

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 7, 2015 - 8:44 PM

Thanks Art,

I have 91 3sgte wiring diagram (my engine is a 93), but do not have 7afe. I do have a spare fully intact 7afe harness. I was trying to dig up some threads on it, but I totally forgot where to find it. If you could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

I have 95% of the harness intact (just unplugged at the moment), I wasn't sure If I could plug in the rest of the harness and try to start it. What I have left to do is wire up the plug at the alternator, wire the O2 sensor. I can get those wired up tomorrow afternoon, and see what happens after I turn the key.

The few things I have in question are those three wires.

Thanks again guys,

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 8, 2015 - 7:32 PM

Just an update, I have the harness in starter work,s fuel pump works, checked the CEL had two slow blinks. Gonna try to figure out what that means.

Posted by: richee3 Jun 8, 2015 - 8:29 PM

I'm not sure if you have these or not, but it might come in useful.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=93774

Posted by: Defgeph Jun 11, 2015 - 5:37 PM

Thanks for the link!

I'm down to one code, 14

Turbo pressure or Ignition signal. I have the ignitor wired up, I believe it to be correct. Coil pack is wired up. I think I ruled out the 2 wires at EA1, I think they are for Items that I removed from the car. The white wire for the alternator had been wired up.

Any Ideas?