I've made so much progress in the past few weeks with my car (thanks mostly to local board members) that I thought I would jump on the band wagon & start my progress thread too.
This thread, just like the car; is a work in progress.
My Car was purchased back in 2006 and was meant to be a project car right away, but unfortunately I was busy with my career at the time and she was quickly neglected.
1994 Celica GT-S w/ ~224K kms on it (approx 139187 miles)
Interior was in great condition, nothing special done to it...
Then I caught the mod bug.
The first modification I did, was to upgrade to the JDM Taillights.
The company I worked for at the time was nice enough to give me a vehicle for personal & work use, so the Celica was parked for the better part of 3 years.
In 2007, I was promoted and moved to Calgary Alberta to work for the companies Corporate office.
That's when I met WALKER and the rest of the 6GC members from that time.
(I had also just purchased the 7th Gen rims the day before this picture was taken)
After becoming more comfortable with the 6GC, and where to source parts from... I had the mod bug baaaaad:
In 2008; I purchased my first suspension mods; Tanabe D210 Lowering Springs & a GT-Four Rear Strut Bar:
And in 2009 decided to spice up the interior...
From this:
To this:
aaaaand somewhere in there a 7th Gen Short Throw Shifter was installed...
Also purchased some headers, a cooling panel and Hotwires spark plug wires:
Before:
During:
And After:
Later that summer I managed to get my hands on a set of Custom Projectors w/ Clear lenses (from Rayme via WALKER)
I had to tear them apart and rebuild them myself as the brackets were loose and the projectors would bounce around inside the housings. I also took this opportunity to mount some Halo rings onto the projectors as well.
It was also around this time that I installed the JDM rain guards JDM Rear Visor & removed the amber piece from the JDM Taillights.
I decided to try a little tint as well to match the CF License Bezel:
After the headers were installed and the stock cat was removed - I could no longer stand the sound of my exhaust... so I took it in to get modified.
To this:
The sound is much better, but I do miss the unique-ness of the dual exhaust...
Then the worst happened... the timing belt snapped mid-commute one day. IIRC it was around the same time I was installing the projectors, etc. I can't seem to find any pictures of that event, but long story short; with the help of WALKER & ZenAutoworks I was able to tear apart the engine, replace the timing belt & Water pump and then redo all the seals on my way in/out.
The car was back on the road again!! Yay! But at the end of the fall season in 2009, the clutch went, and left me stranded again at the side of the road. Not just 500KMs after I just finished the timing belt!! Argh!
So the car has been parked since then; waiting to roll again and finally this year I was able to make some progress with it again. (Busy/Cold 2010 year)
My 3rd gear had always given me grief while shifting, so I decided to get a whole new bell housing/tranny along with a temp clutch and pressure plate.
In the prep process I was a little distracted and decided to test fit some new body panels. (ie 404 Skirts, JDM fenders, and ST205 hood)
This past weeks worth of work revealed the problem with the clutch;
DESTROYED
See the link in my signature "Project- Tranny Swap" for more details...
But this brings us up to date so far in my progress (or lack-thereof, LOL ) and this is how she sits until I can get back underneath her...
Resurfaced Flywheel ready to install, lightened and machined down...
Hope you enjoyed so far, and I will update when more work is done...
Thanks!
I love your Celica, especially your dash
Great project, very unique! I look forward to updates in this thread.
C-ONE !!!!!!! Hell-yeh!
how loud is the exhaust from inside the car at around 3,000 rpm?
The new exhaust, or the old dual exhaust?
new exhaust
also whats the outlet size on the new muffler?
2.5" in -> 3" out I believe.
I love your new exhaust and am going to do the same but with a little mor tilt to it so thats why im asking so many questions
As I was looking at the clutch picture I thought to myself "wtf, it looks fin..O ****" Thats quite a skill to do that to the spring. Looks great man, this will be one of the few builds ill be sure to follow!!
I remember my uncles turbo rx7 ripped the metal from the pucks on his clutch
Cool story bro
do like a nice yellow 6 - my mrs has one
OMG - those are sexy 6's mate.
Where did your wife get that bonnet from? RTP? (yellowchinaman) kinda looks like his product.
I wants it over here on mine car, but thats a lot of coin for me.
Thanks for sharing those pics tho! Very nice!
Yer the cf bonnet is off Ray - as is the lip
Just need to finish it off with a cf rear spoiler and mirror covers as it has a cf rear number plate surround on the way
Also thinking of a cf rear diffuser too so it will match my grey 205 in appearance
Update - I really hate myself right now.
Getting distracted and started 7 different projects at once is really coming back to bite me in the @$$.
I'm slowly trying to get back on track and took the week off to get back underneath my car - and slowly start putting it back together.
The rear suspension/brake assembly is finally complete, here are some teaser pics (iphone pics/flash - sorry for $hitty quality):
Had to reassemble the coilovers (I missed washers on the original install), finally installed my Stainless Steel Braided Lines, and Coated the brake calipers RED.
Also, finished the install of the 7th gen steering wheel, w/ retrofited 6gc cruise stalk... didn't snag pics of that however.
Decided to give my baby a little more juice than the 5S could offer...
Went and checked it out after work today - 3rd Gen 3SGE w/ 98K on it. My mechanic was shocked at how clean it was. We opened up the TB valve and looked inside the intake plenum and we were both amazed at how clean it was...
Can't wait to get it home and start tearing into it. YAY!
Any expected swap date?
Great build, cant wait to see her finished. I got my eye on u sir, lol.
Nice man!! That should def give the car some more perk.
Hopefully I will be right behind you in this part of the build as soon as I start working and saving up. MOORRRREEEE PROGRESS UDATES SIR!!!!!!
Oh yeah, now woud be the best time to clean ur engine bay since its free of the engine. Deff try using armorall wheel cleaner, gunk engine degreaser, and a pressure washer or water hose. Then to shine her up armor all tire shine or gunk engine shine. Ive used these two methods for years (since my accord in high school 2003) and hasnt failed me yet.
Update.
Tonight I installed the front coilovers, driverside JDM fender, and reinserted the driveshafts so the front hub washer wouldn't crush under the pressure. The I reattached the GTFOUR hood, put the wheels back on, and pushed it out of the garage onto the driveway where it now sits under a car cover...
Didn't reinstall the newly painted front calipers... don't have a brake system right now anyways, so I figured, "Why Bother...?"
Here are some shatty update pics for yall... new 3rd Gen 3SGE comes tomorrow morning! YAY!
A height that Jon would be proud of... - I actually had troubles getting my 4" floor jack out from underneath the car... :S
new exhaust with the swap?
what size are you thinking of and will we be seeing a tilted can :-D
You can use stock piping. I did with my BEAMS. But the 5S uses 2" piping and the 3S uses 2.25", so it would be better to upgrade.
Very nice. Ive heard from a few people that the hood gap is actually quite functional when it comes to cooling the engine bay. As the air is pushed in thru the gap it also pushes the hot out from the top cowl and the two rears. But the gap can be an eye sore to a lot of folks too, lol
I don't mind the gap really.
Ehh that gap is way to obvious to me.
You can reuse the stock exhaust however you'll have to put the stock manifold back on versus using the header that comes on the 3sge. I end taking the midpipe and modifying it to mate up with the 3sge header.
^^ Exactly what I did. I had a reducer mated to the BEAMS b pipe so the car isn't obnoxious. Wifey is only half the reason I kept the factory GT exhaust. Neither one of us appreciates a loud car. Overall, the exhaust only cost me $30 as opposed to what it could have cost to have it all replaced. But you know 2" piping is going to hold the 3S back.
I had a surprisingly productive weekend.
Sold the 5S engine & wrapped headers; bought my own Engine Crane & Engine stand and assembled them both.
Cleared out a bit of space in the garage to work, and now its time to mount the 3SGE to the stand and get to work.
Sold the 5SFE over the weekend, so I decided to get to work on the 3S last night.
Started to remove the heat shield, alternator, and upper T-Belt cover... lookit those extractors! W00t!
Decided to mark the t-belt/cams for easy replacement.... and noticed the idler/tensioner pulley.
The T-Belt seems healthy... which begs the question; was it recently replaced, or are the kms on this engine really that low?
Question: Does this sticker mean the t-belt was changed @ 100,000kms? Or that it needs to be done at 100,000kms? Translator please!
It needs to be done
The other night I was unbuttoning the engine harness from the block, etc and I found this just lying in a pile of wires on the transmission, under the dizzy. Not connected to anything; and it looks like it was snapped off at one point.
I'm hoping this isn't part of the 96+ EGR system
... can anyone help verify for me?
That's part of the egr system but that's not 96+, it's early 90s.
No 6 gen has a connector like that, that's 5th gen.
Probably a repair/replacement part for something that broke. I wouldn't even worry about it.
Oh ok. So maybe it came from the guy I bought it from. He had a 5th gen he was going to swap this engine into. Probably a spare part of his that got tossed into the pile.
Phew. Thanks Dustin!
yeah looks foriegn/old to me aswell
good photos though so you can see the part number
89570-20230
a vsv from mid 80's Corona, Camry, ST161 Celica's etc
engine looks good btw, did you manage to get the LHD harness?
No not yet... but here's what I'm thinking:
I have a POS harness that has been un-loomed (lets call it that for lack of better terminology at this point), and I've just purchased a mint one from 3WayStunna (so you won't have to keep an eye out for me anymore Rusty) - I'll just extend the loom myself... or pull a Dustin and make a new hole in the firewall.
... I haven't really decided yet, but I have options.
New harness came in the mail today - finally, Canada Customs had it for about a week.
3WayStunna - you're a life saver dude! Thanks for the hook up!
Side by side: (see the mess I had to deal with, ugh)
Fusebox Included:
New ECU:
Can anyone tell me the differences between these two?
can't wait to see this done.
Very 'Mint' harness
89661-17480 ecu is from the MR2
still trying to figure out where the other one comes from
Got some more work done last night - removed the BENT tensioner from the Timing belt assembly - must've gotten bent in transport.
Started with the Intake Manifold and the Throttle Body:
Not sure what this is, but I figured I would document it anyways:
IM off:
This was quite the juggling act to get this IM off... had to un fasten the TB first, then remove the engine hook; only then would the IM come off without a fuss... interesting set up this 3SGE is...
Gasket appears to be in decent shape - but there was a bit of oil on it, is that norm?:
I also unbolted the fuel lines from the rail before removing the IM - I just re inserted the banjo bolt so I don't lose it.
Now to finish with that old nasty wire harness...:
Now for the driveshaft pulley (or harmonic balancer??):
Also, here's a decent shot of the bent tensioner pulley bracket - see how close it is to the exhaust cam gear? Thats not good... it was actually a tight squeeze to remove it. I felt the cam gear afterwards and there seems to have been a bit of scoring/marking... but I could be imagining things too.
It looks pretty beat up... maybe some of it was from me :???: - I swear I was gentle:
Here's where I left off last night before packing it in:
So far the engine has been a dream to work with - no signs of leaking, the block doesn't have any cracks that I can see, and aside from the bent tensioner bracket & the MR2 ECU, I haven't seen anything visually alarming...
Hopefully tonight I can drain the oil, remove the valve cover, the distributor, and the water pump.
Lookin good man keep it up
great work, wish i could do that!
Amazing work.
As for my exhaust, I just made a $30.00 adapter to mate the BEAMS b-pipe to my original exhaust.
The open wiring harness pictures brings back memories of mine
Yes, I hope to be at the meet this summer. (work permitting)
You gonna have the car done for the meet?
lol at flicking off the old harness. I know that kind of rage, but mine was towards the superstrut balljoints
Cant wait to see this done
Should be a sweet lookin celi
Trying to order some bits and pieces for the rebuild; will these work on a 3SGE head?
http://arp-bolts.com/images/releases/Images.News/203-4207.html
yes they should work as the Gen 3 3S-GE and 3S-GTE are the same
yup A/C idle up valve
I'd better see a dope paint job on that valve cover sir!
FYI, do you have a separate? The coil is separate from the distributor unlike the 5sfe, also doesnt bolt the engine bay so it most likely didnt come with one.
^ Hah...paint...in the mix...I see what yon did there.
Good luck with the rest of the progress.
Does anyone know where I could find an aftermarket charcoal canister? I'd like to dress up the engine bay a little bit with one... but can't seem to find any.
I've tried Summit and a few other places, but maybe I'm using the wrong keywords?
LMK
Took off the oil pan today to reveal this:
Most likely from sitting too long.
Tonight I was able to get the oil pan, the distributor assembly and the valve cover off.
Oil pump looks to be in decent shape:
Look at the special treat that welcomed me when I took the Valve cover off:
CLEANLINESS!!! YAY!
Oooooh she be purty lol
Least the head makes up for the oil pan
Brings back memories of mine! I too had a very clean motor!
Kurt/Brent; it was such a relief when I saw the internals... I was so happy!
Picked this up off the Calgary Kijiji today:
Dirt cheap. The guy was just trying to get rid of it... sold his MR2 awhile ago and just had it lying around. Pity.
Took the water pump off:
Whats the best way to remove the rust deposits from the coolant lines, etc while the engine is OUT of the car?
This rust deposit shouldn't concern me too much, right? I already know the engine had been sitting for awhlie...
THOUGHTS??
Bump - no thoughts? LOL
how much work are you planning on doing to the motor wile its out? and as far as the lines go, if it were me (and it just was. LOL) swap all of your lines to new 4-ply silicone hoses, and a new rad....
with new parts and the motor out the only real part that you will need to thoroughly clean is the heater core... i have seen it done with a 5 gal bucket, a full bottle of CLR, and a cheap in bucket water pump and garden hose..
fill the bucket, put in the CLR, hook up the pump and dump tube to pour back into the bucket.. and let it cycle for about 30 min.. or until no more sh!t comes out of the core.
if you are not going to pull the block all the way apart you can use a similar system... the key though is that you then will HAVE to flush the core and the system in the motor with fresh water (just hook it up to the water hose, and let it flow till it is clear, and no more junck coming out) good luck bro!
Vinegar is good for removing rust, and for cheap.
I finally got sick of all my procrastination and fear of taking the block apart on my own; so I locked myself in the garage tonight until it was done.
Overall not bad. I pussy'd out and didn't take apart the head properly, I just removed the assembly from the block and set it off to the side. Suprisingly enough seperating the block from the head was not the daunting task I thought it would be. Yay.
Examining the chambers, it would appear there was some debris in there and I can see some marking, but over all the chambers are in decent shape. Regardless, this engine has been sitting for awhile and the block is going for a day at the spa. Hot tanked, cylinders honed, and possibly machined if needed.
Anyways, the pictures should speak for themselves. The block is completely stripped and ready to go (aside from a few bolts that I still need to document before I take it somewhere.
Enjoy! I sure did.
What sensor is this??
That is strange. Coolant temp senor maybe...? Only thing I could think of that'd be on the side of the block. That or oil pressure, but that'd seem like an odd place for one.
Hmm... Block temperature sensor? No idea, this is quite the conundrum.
Ahh, thought it might've been that. All the ones I've know are located on the top of the engine and not the side though. Good thing to know.
great progress
and yes knock sensor
that pitting is from detonation, not from debris bro.
Very nice. Great work so far.. This will be done very soon as I need to replace the valve cover gasket... I think I'm getting some oil leak and therefore the exhaust spewing out some smoke.... But we'll see.
It should be ok bro, that pitting could have weakened the ringlands below, but I doubt it. I'd check on a price for a set of pistons, if they are cheap enough, I'd go that route. The head should be fine too, not a lot of pitting
Got the block and the pistons back from the machine shop today - CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH.
Block looks great... needs a little bit of a pressure wash to get rid of the flaking paint on the block (from the hot tank, I'm assuming). I didn't realize how much gunk/build up there actually was in the cooling chambers of the cylinders until it wasn't there anymore. The chambers look great now, could probably use a little pressure washing themselves. (I can still see a few rust chips inside... )
The block came back with what appears to be some pretty big scratches in the cylinders... I'm a little concerned because they weren't there before I took the block to the shop and now I'm worried that the block might not be usable.
Unfortunately, I'm heading out of town for the long weekend and won't be able to take pictures, etc until I get back.
...or maybe I'll try to snap a few in the sunlight in the morning before we leave, get your opinion(s).
The shop said the cylinder walls and pistons were still well within specs, so I can reuse them for the rebuild.
Maybe do a light honing on them? Just enough to smooth things out some.
Took a vid:
http://vid208.photobucket.com/albums/bb199/KAOS2K8/CARS/1994%20Celica%20GT-S/3SGE%20Swap/CLIP0016.mp4
Looks like scratches from the honing tool - doesn't seem like a crack, but I might do a dye test just in case.
Looks like they're high enough in the cylinder wall that it might be higher than the TDC.
Looks like some tooling marks from the machine shop. I'd take that **** back and have them fix it!
dang I hope its not a crack. Wasn't there before was it?
one thing you could look at further down the rebuild, is getting some of the heat reflective wrap and putting it on the underside of the intake manifold to prevent heat soak. (GT-4/3S-GTE owners do the same on their factory intercooler) I'm looking at doing the same, but can't find it for sale here in NZ.
When I made and installed my cold airbox, my intake manifold was cooler to touch afterwoods. So I'm sure this would help a bit with keeping intake temperatures down - seems to work for 3S-GTE guys. I dont think its too expensive and its pretty easy to install.
What exactly do you have to do wiring wise to put this into a GT? I know everything is basically bolt in with mounts, transmission, etc.
I don't know how much longer my engine is going to last, still running strong, but I have my doubts. I'm not spending the money to put my other 5s block back together if it's going to cost about the same, or a little less, than it would for this engine. I'd rather have the tad bit more HP and more respect from teh friends lol
Great work. Can't wait to see it running :-)
Some key components to the rebuild finally came in:
Cometic Gaskets (including metal headgasket) and ACL Race Bearings.
nice =)
Managed to clean up the surface rust and run a quick wire wheel along the block.
... THEN PAINT!
BEFORE:
AFTER:
good work dude, block looks good.
done yet? you now have less than 1 month
just thought I'd remind you
Engine work is looking good, I wish I could have tore my block down to the ground and built her back up. Maybe next summer haha, keep the updates coming!
[quote name='KAOS' date='May 20, 2011 - 12:12 PM' post='917217']
After becoming more comfortable with the 6GC, and where to source parts from... I had the mod bug baaaaad:
In 2008; I purchased my first suspension mods; Tanabe D210 Lowering Springs & a GT-Four Rear Strut Bar:
And in 2009 decided to spice up the interior...
From this:
To this:
aaaaand somewhere in there a 7th Gen Short Throw Shifter was installed...
...Where do you find the JDM gauge faces??? i have been looking all over and cant find them do you have a website i can go to so i can order them??
lower oil pan gasket? You just use FIPG???
Exacttlyyyyy haha
Does this engine have a MAF sensor or is it the same as the 5s?
Minor updates... wanted to get the projectors and C-One replica installed today...
Fitment on the bumper was decent, not oem fit by any means, but its what I expected given what was paid for it.
Sweet!!
Now get it running!!
Liking this...
has facebook made me so lazy I just want to hit like =P
Just a quick question for you guys...
NON:
~ OR ~
GENUINE TRD: ERMAHGERD!!
Trd ftw!!!
TRD yes, fart can NO.
to pull off trd wing you need oem sideskirts and rear trd splitters
I'm definitely liking the looks with the TRD on there!
Looking good! Once you get your 3S in there, it'll be a whole new car.
Been a long time since I've posted on this site now that I'm just selling off all my 6gc parts...
Very nice Jeremy! Can't wait to see the car at its finished result with the plans you've told me.
Overdue update!
The rebuild has begun. Slow and steady...
Head torn apart, mating surface of the head has been lapped and ready to go for a metal headgasket:
The block, all reassembled and lapped the surface as well. Waiting for the head...
Your still alive!! Yay
I had forgotten about you.
Looks like you need to update your signature! It has the Ogooogo 2012 sign up still! Only a couple meets old!
Haha, just a little break between drinks
I want to see this thing all painted with the skirts, spats and spoiler on!
Update:
Engine is almost back together. Just getting some parts cleaned up/powdercoated before I can proceed.
Valve adjustments are done and very compliant (yay!)
Cometic Metal Headgasket is installed and torqued to 60ft lbs, as per the specs on the ARP head bolts.
Timing assembly is all back together, and its looking like an engine again!
PICS:
- Nice clean head with new cometic valve stem seals installed, then shims and buckets reinstalled.
- ARP Headbolts installed and headgasket placed.
- Torquing the bolts
- Timing assembly.... assembled!
- a 3SGE powered MKII? ... yeah I don't think so...
- VID of the christening! It's official now... no turning back.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb199/KAOS2K8/CARS/1994%20Celica%20GT-S/3SGE%20Swap/PinPull_zpsd6cb38c3.mp4
IT'S GONNA EXPLODE! RUN!
well done engine looks awesome.
Have you started to second guess your work yet? it drove me nuts when I was building my 3s. I would always wonder things like 'hmmm did I really align the piston rings properly?'.....after I had the pistons installed documenting everything, taking pics/vids and placing white paint dots on bolts that were properly torqued was the only way I could keep myself from redoing work haha
Glad one of us like my track vid
Im more than alil unhappy with my performance
1mz did great.....I was a epic failure of a driver lol
better than the paint on my car hahahahaha
looks great man
For those of you NOT in the Facebook group, here's where I'm at:
3SGE beside a newer 2ZZ
Progress!
That looks awesome KAOS. Great job as always
looks great man! bet you can't wait to drive it!
nice! let's get it in there.
Looking good man
It'll look even better in the car
awesome
that's the colour scheme I want to do, I wasn't sure about the ACIS cover, but looks great, nice contrast. Are you going to paint the first intake plenum a silver? And did you while it was off put heat reflective tape underneath it?
nice progress mate. Keep it up.
I'm picturing that red in the engine bay contrasting with the body's yellow, and it's tasty.
Way to do the job right, Kaos.
I'm eagerly anticipating your posts about making the appropriate changes to get the swap running. I hope you can detail the process. I'm hoping to put one in myself, but I don't know what changes need to be made to the wiring.
That sounds excellent. Check this out. I've been searching hi and low to find somebody with a writeup or something. And I found a post by an active member on here about swapping a 3rd gen. He actually used the stock 5sfe harness!
99gt3sge said this:
MORE PICS MORE PICS MORE PICS!!!! Lol
No photo updates as of yet, just a confession.
I'm tired of not being able to drive this car, so as of today; I'm officially back on the rebuild.
(been taking an extended break due to rebuild challenges, finances, and ****ty weather).
First things first, I need to build a fuel line.
Stay tuned...
way better than my build, i am glad there is anoter 3d gen user like my self and rusty, lovong this progress thread!!!!! get it running
My buddy with the shop that houses my engine, bits and chassis is on holidays for a couple weeks. But as soon as he's back - the car gets finished.
T-minus 3 weeks and counting.
Yes!! Progress will be made!!
Wiring harness has been unloomed, lengthened appropriately and buttoned back up. Next weekend, if I can get the rest of the parts, oil, etc gathered, the car will hopefully fire up! W00t!
Big weekend for me and my car;
After 6 long years, it will hopefully be back up and running by the end of the weekend!!!!
Engine off the stand and fidanza flywheel soft mounted:
ARP flywheel bolts laced with Loctite and hand threaded:
Torqued to 95 ft-lbs, as per spec:
Ran into my first speed bump. The brand new Southbend Stage 2 clutch I ordered doesn't mate to the flywheel (its for a 3SGE), the clutch was for a 5SFE - so it'll be going up for sale very soon. Someone PM me if you need it - give you a sweet dealio.
Luckily a member of the local Celica Car Group has a brand new clutch that he decided not to use for his 3SGTE swap... so yay for me! Have to go pick it up this afternoon, and then will get back to work shortly after.
Just building a new fuel line while I wait to pick up the 3SGTE clutch.
And here it is, much nicer than the one I was originally putting on it.
Housing back on - breaking for lunch and then it goes back into the car!
are you seriously updating as you go? nice...
Done for the night.
Awesome to hear it's all coming back together. I can't believe it has been 6 years, really?
Are you planning to bring it to Ogopogo if all goes well?
Hey bud!
Yes, Ryan and I should have it running this week for sure. Had a few hiccups this weekend that held things up a bit.
I would need to break it all in, entirely new everything pretty much... and then assess the financial situation afterwards.
aaaaaaaaaaaaand its in.
Mounts were a PITA to line up.
Working frantically to get everything buttoned up and the extended harness through the firewall... most everything was smooth.
AC Compressor was being a major b1tc# tho... :@
thats funny, maybe ill see it in person..
Engine has to come back out, the reason the transmission went on so easily is most likely the 21 spline count friction disc (from the 3SGTE kit) on the 20 spline shaft. I should have used the smaller 5S friction disc but we were concerned with the mating surfaces. I see now from one of Manny's old 5SFTE days that using the smaller 5S friction disc is fine. (I'm not putting down near as much HP as he is either).
F!@K
Car's running.
Drove it home from the shop last night - car won't rev over 3-45k, sometimes higher, we narrowed down the issue to either the distributor housing (as the cap and rotor were replaced in the rebuild) or the wire harness. But as the portion of the wiring harness that goes to the distributor wasn't touched and remains intact, I'm pretty sure its the distributor housing. The pickups are struggling under load to keep up. So, I need a spare unit from a 3rd Gen 3SGE/3SGTE to test with, and then sink another few hundred into it to get it running properly.
Car was fun to drive though. New shifter assembly/clutch/lightweight flywheel really went well together. Engages quickly and the shifts are very solid despite missing the plastic shifter grommet thingy. Engine sounds mean at idle, and I can tell it really wants to GO. Really too bad about the dizzy.
LIST OF THINGS TO DO NOW:
[ ] - test out dizzy with known working one
[ ] - replace dizzy (if, that IS the issue)
[ ] - replace fuel VSV and reconnect lines; currently they're bridged and not running through the broken VSV
[ ] - fix ignition wire; old command start unit spliced into the unit between the key ignition and interior fuse box panel somewhere (need to tear the panels off under steering wheel to fix)
[ ] - fix/replace turn signal blinking relay
[ ] - troubleshoot the driverside window switch, doesn't roll down/up; contacts might just need cleaning
[ ] - find spacer bushing for Cusco front pillowball mounts; too much of a gap causes loud thunk on smallest of bumps.
[ ] - connect/wire up projectors/ballasts
[ ] - connect/wire up JDM repeaters
[ ] - clean up rotors/calipers (paint touch up); gotten a little rusty from sitting all these years
[ ] - reshape rotor guards as they rub on rotors while driving
[ ] - clean up/polish muffler
[ ] - Plasti-Dip car, body panels, and apply all body panels.
[ ] - find rims/summer tires (currently only have facelift GTFour stockies w/ winter tires )
[ ] - monitor engine for leaks; minor oil leak during start up/testing, seems to have gone away
Glad to hear you have it running! Good luck with the next few steps of getting a reliable fun driver!
awesome that you got it running and get to drive it
Now it's time to enjoy the shyt out of it
Ok - long overdue update for anyone that cares.
Swapped out the dizzy with a working one from a ST205, and the same issue was prevalent.
Was about to tear apart the exhaust, thinking it was a flow issue, when I had a thought, "What if its the new O2 sensor?"
... so I unplugged it from the harness, and viola, the engine runs properly now. (sans O2 sensor )
Bizarre, the O2 sensor is brand new, and I have yet to take it out of the piping to look at the ceramics, but has anyone else had an issue like this?
Also, I think the lightweight flywheel, combined with the polyurethane motor mounts are causing too much vibration in my engine bay... I've lost a handful of nuts, bolts, etc and noticed last night that the nut came off of my front engine mount and the bolt was almost gone. I went through and re torqued what I could get at easily without a lift, etc.
^^^ Anyone else had that happen on a fresh built engine?
The last thing that concerns me greatly is the amount of leakage from the transmission side of the engine, there doesn't appear to be oil on the flywheel, but the oil has to be coming from somewhere... any chance the bell housing could be leaking trans fluid into it somewhere?
I hooked up the HIDs and buttoned everything back up last night. Needed to drive my car to work today...
The drive was pretty smooth. I have no radio so I had to listen to the exhaust drone the whole way into Calgary, meh.
I made it to work ok, the car dropped down to 600rpm when it wasn't in gear a couple of times and scared me a little bit, I thought it was going to stall out...
I'm leery about driving it still, as I just don't think I trust it just yet, does that make sense?
Anyways, here she sits at my work, waiting for another run...
look at that snow....
how does it run? i still need to pull mine back out and do a few things here and there. clutch flywheel etc.
Have you tried pulling codes yet? You probably have and I missed it. Unplugging the O2 sensor will cause the ECU to dump fuel, which may be hiding the real issue if something else is causing it to run lean.
My BEAMS will only light the CEL up for the really important things, not for stuff like the O2 sensor. The 3rd gen 3S-GE could be the same way. You know for sure that you have to at least have a code 5 or 21 for the O2 sensor.
1 Normal Condition.
2 Air Flow Meter signal.
3 Ignition signal.
4 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
5 Oxygen Sensor.
6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
8 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
9 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
10 Starter signal.
11 Switch signal.
11 ECU/ECM.
12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
12 RPM signal.
13 Knock Control CPU (ECM).
13 RPM signal.
14 Turbocharger Pressure.
14 Ignition signal.
15 Ignition signal
21 Oxygen Sensor.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
23 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal.
28 No. 2 Oxygen Sensor signal.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
32 Air Flow Meter signal.
34 Turbocharger Pressure signal.
35 Turbocharger Pressure Sensor signal.
35 HAC Sensor signal.
39 VVT-i
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
43 Starter signal.
51 Switch signal.
52 Knock Sensor signal.
53 Knock Sensor signal.
54 Inter-cooler ECM signal.
71 EGR System.
72 Fuel Cut Solenoid signal.
78 Fuel Pump Control signal.
81 TCM Communication.
83 TCM Communication.
84 TCM Communication.
85 TCM Communication.
LIST OF THINGS TO DO NOW:
[X] - test out dizzy with known working one
[ ] - replace fuel VSV and reconnect lines; currently they're bridged and not running through the broken VSV
[X] - fix ignition wire; old command start unit spliced into the unit between the key ignition and interior fuse box panel somewhere (need to tear the panels off under steering wheel to fix)
[ ] - fix/replace turn signal blinking relay - parts ordered, on the way!
[ ] - troubleshoot the driverside window switch, doesn't roll down/up; contacts might just need cleaning
[X] - find spacer bushing for Cusco front pillowball mounts; too much of a gap causes loud thunk on smallest of bumps. kindasad.gif <- just reinstalled stock upper strut mounts
[X] - connect/wire up projectors/ballasts
[ ] - connect/wire up JDM repeaters
[X] - clean up rotors/calipers (paint touch up); gotten a little rusty from sitting all these years
[X] - reshape rotor guards as they rub on rotors while driving kindasad.gif
[ ] - clean up/polish muffler biggrin.gif
[ ] - Plasti-Dip car, body panels, and apply all body panels. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
[ ] - find rims/summer tires (currently only have facelift GTFour stockies w/ winter tires frown.gif )
[X] - monitor engine for leaks; minor oil leak during start up/testing, seems to have gone away - replaced REAR MAIN SEAL, now clutch slave is leaking...
[X] - troubleshoot faulty O2 sensor - was a bad ground on the harness... O2 sensor works fine now
Progress!!
Hey you wouldn't remember anything about the dual muffler setup at all do you? I'm kind of open to trying something like it and want to know what mufflers were used for it if you remember or know.
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