(Well this is my first progess thread post im bad with dates and im basically going based on my pictures so bare with me)
Well guys here's my story like everyone out there we fell in love with our first car i started out with a saturn sc2 95 unfortunately first cars alway have two outcomes either it gets crashed or it just stops working.For me it got crashed and the radiator got cracked and to repair it was just too much so i had to say goodbye but thanks to that car i was able to go to work and saved enough money along with what little i got from junking it,a month later i found this beautiful car at my local car lot.
it had a few issues but it was stick shift!! i was so excited my very first convertible.
but most of its issues were the passenger side top lift arm was broken the top itself was worn out and was ripped(i suspected that the previous owner had suffered the crazy ex girlfriend that will mess up your car, the leather seats were slashed) so black and red seat covers fixed that problem
and when i had enough i finally replaced the top with a much better one with everything in tact
later on as i started earning money i decided that for my first mod was to get a better muffler because the original just sounded like a rape whistle when i floored the gas lol. i also got rid of the piping and go 2 1/4 inch as well as a resonator for a much more aggressive sound
later i wanted more power so i bought me on ebay a weapon R short ram
at least with that mod it gave it a bit more response but like all guys we want more power am i right??
as time went by i went through a ricer/cheap phase since i had paint laying around and i could afford a decent set of rims i began painting my stock ones, added hood pins just for the looks and started adding stickers
i then bought a wingswest super spoiler and as soon as i got it i got to putting it on i also wanted my car to look darker so i decided to tint the tail lights and the front signals ;P
(as you can see i stareted with red rims looked good at first,until it got dirty i just was not what i expected)
(so then i went with black with red lugs why not? lol)
i then noticed my car was too high up it needed to get lowered so i found me a set of lowered springs and got to work
(this was a real PITA btw)
But finally i was able to get me a good set of rims found me a set of msr rims and upgraded from 15' to 17"
(added spacers for a more flush look)
i Later checked on craigslist and found me a set of crystal beam headlamps from venus auto my local jdm shop
and got to installing
(this is how she looked from this moment completely changed but beautiful)
time went by and went great but things were still missing.....
so i got me custom headers !!
then time went by again..... and my buddies told me that if i wanted to put the short ram better use i should try and get the GT-four hood
so i went to venus auto once again and just my luck they had the rare hood in good condition and in matching color!!
took off my hood.
and viola!! perfect
later i began noticing that the prefacelift front bumper wasnt giving the aggressive look i wanted so i went once again to venus auto
and bought the facelifted front bumper with the fog lights
the new look
i then came across some ss3-III front splitters and was lucky to get them on ebay so again to painting and install
few weeks ago i changed my gauge cluster and painted the trim to match with the car:
much thanks to 6gc community i was able to get the sticker so thanks again you guys
(if it werent for you guys i would still be looking)
as of today this is her now:
(decided to give it a jdm look so i got the fog lights painted yellow)
future plans: 3sge beams engine swap and right now i'm awaiting my ss3 grill ss3 rear splitters and the zglyde sideskirt to arrive. ill post more pics as i progress but there you have it thats my story hope you guys enjoyed it.
Pretty good progress so far. Venus Auto usually has pretty good prices.
I hate to be this guy but ss3 rear splits don't fit the coupe or vert
Yea the ss3 only came in liftback an the back bumper on a coupe/vert are shaped different
You got 2 options
Current rear splitters like you found ( I have them on my coupe an they look awesome)
Or hiro rear splitters. They look alil similar to ss3 rears I think but are super hard to find if you want to stick with OEM parts
I'd go with the current rears you found an a set of curren tail lights
awesome thanks man ill order it and get to installing ill continue posting my progress as it goes
Sweet can't wait to see how she turns out
Looking good so far.
I'd love to get a vert to do a v6 swap on with dual exhaust
The thought itself sounds amazing lol
yea it would be amazing im pretty sure someone has done it already.but ill just go with n/a power
I think the yellow fogs look good. What type of paint did you use?
Any new updates yet?
not yet in a few weeks im going to get the beams motor ;D cant wait
Very nice. Good Lucky man, I'll keep an eye on ur thread then.
Well after loooong days of hard work i am finally going to start the beams swap beginning tomorrow i already have bought the engine with lsd tranny ecu and wiring so hopefully all goes well i also found a good mechanic who is willing to work on this project and make my dream come true!!only downside is im going to be carless for about a week or so
Ill be posting pictures up soon but im finally going to make this plan of mine become reality
what is the difference between the beams and a stock 5S-FE engine?
cheer up. my engine was messed up and didn't have a car for 3 months. glad to see another guy with beams swap
Well from what i know and read the engines bolt right on im not 100% sure but the are feasable thats for sure
Well Guys As i Promised
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/Beams3sge_zps32db2d6f.jpg.html
(looks like the previous owner didnt like the original red look it had easy fix tho he plastidipped so it scrapes off
Lsd equipped so im set haha
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/LSDBeams_zps346836cb.jpg.html
the sensor looked fine
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/BeamsSensor2_zps96286a23.jpg.html
That is a valve, not a sensor. Where is the throttle body? No throttle body, no deal in my book. They are rather difficult to track down and pretty expensive when you do find one.
It's called an oil control valve, basically it routes oil and controls the VVT-i. As long as the throttle body is included, you should be good. They sell by themselves for about $400, so you're definitely better off getting it with the motor. And chance of getting the intake with it? B pipe is a plus.
I'll save richee the time
No your intake an header will NOT work on the beams
The stock beams header is better anyway.
Your weapon r intake won't work either there's no housing for the Maf sensor.
The beams is a very picky engine when it comes to intake.
You will lose power by not running the stock intake box an tube.
No problem
You could buy a Maf adapter housing. But it'll never run as good without the stock intake.
I've been short on free time lately and not getting much sleep, so I apologize for any abruptness. This is a forum and we're all here to help.
I'll start by clarifying a few things. The BEAMS is a 3S-GE, so the difference in the swap is minimal. The nuts and bolts portion is the same, and to my understanding wiring is similar. The biggest difference between the two swaps is the cost.
I've posted the necessary wiring changes in a few places; somewhere deep on my thread, page 1 of ricochet1490's thread, and a few other places.
To do a BEAMS swap, all you really need is the engine, uncut harness, and ECU. You can use your GT mounts and trans. Then there extras that aren't a hundred percent necessary but do save a lot if time and money. Things like the B pipe and intake, for instance. The B pipe can be fabricated at an exhaust shop but it's easier to get the stock one. The intake is the single most problematic part of a BEAMS swap. The MAF sensor in the intake of a BEAMS determines 90% of how the engine will run. It's extremely finicky. It's so picky, in fact, that if you check out the dynos on the BEAMS Owners Group, you'll see several instances where the OEM intake makes more power than any aftermarket intake. The only aftermarket intake specifically designed for the Redtop is the $300 SARD Sports+ EX, and it's debatable if it does any better than the cheaper OEM intake. You can get away with using a $30 Camry intake but you'll be missing some power.
Anything I missed, I'll try to answer tomorrow. That's all I can think of for now and I know I'm missing quite a bit.
sard intake is 300 new used is $100-$150
hks intake is rare
Did you get from Venus Autoparts in town?
I have beams airbox if you need one PM me
I knew I missed something. For the clutch, seems like a few people have had luck with running an upgraded 5S clutch kit on the BEAMS flywheel. I went with the tried and true 3S-GTE lightweight flywheel, 5S disc, ST185 pressure plate, and. 5S throw out bearing (all OEM Toyota.) Works great, feels awesome, drives like stock.
The engine probably will not stay running without an intake. The MAF will detect no airflow and will kill everything. It will run with the MAF unplugged, but won't run well. Just a heads up for your mechanic.
What are you doing for your tachometer? Tach converter or BEAMS cluster? Be sure to post pictures along the way.
Options you have
Beams cluster with easy to wire kph to mph converter
Beams tach with 7k redline 3sge face in black- use rest of current cluster
You hybrid cluster
In my 205 i used converter to mph on 300kph TRD cluster and all beams orange needles
I have tons of beams and 3sge cluster parts if need anything
Well more pics the engine is now mounted and the wiring has been done so far so good
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/3sgebeamsinside_zps61fcd1e9.jpg.html
my mechanic told me that on start up check engine may light up any way to possibly fix that??
Theres still a few things left to do but overall im pretty excited
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/lsdTranny_zps82b5d63a.jpg.html
maybe not the best angle to take a pic of the tranny but well there it is
The check engine light will definitely be on if it's started as is, since it won't get a proper MAF reading. It's best to get an intake hooked up before startup to sort out any other codes it may throw so you don't have to deal with redundant codes.
ill be sure to do so im going to go pick up the oem airbox at venus later today but theres no hose to connect to the throttle can i use the stock one from my 5s??
The 5S elbow is too small. They do occasionally turn up on eBay or over on the BEAMS Owners Group, otherwise a silicone elbow and maybe some piping from an auto parts store should work. If I recall correctly, it's 3".
alright thanks well ill see what i can do to get this to work
Well im in luck i went to venus and was able to get my hands on the air box and the throttle hose!!!
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131105_113502_zps98753f5e.jpg.html
so now simply bolt on the b bipe and start up and hopefully all runs perfect ill be able to get my car hopefully by either tomorrow or thursday depending on the progress wooooo so excited.
also any idea where i can find the celica st202 axles the one i got has a messed up boot as you can see
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131105_113515_zps0cbe5a57.jpg.html
i was told i shouldnt even replace the boot since its pretty old i should just get a new one. or should i not get them i read somewhere they are a lot thicker compared to the stock ones from my 5SFE.
They are a little thicker than the 5S axles, but the BEAMS only has ~10 ft lbs of torque more, meaning it won't ever have any problems with the stock 5S axles.
just use your axles
alright for sure thanks guys more pics on my progress soon and also ill be sure to ask more questions if im running into issues
btw thats not a celica beams air box. it came from a caldina or rav4. but that should work just fine
Definitely a Caldina Greytop intake. Interesting. It'll work just fine, but it's interesting to see one of those imported with a motor instead of the ST202 intake.
well she lives ;D for some reason the airbox did not fit i think i came from a RAV4 or something so what my mechanic did was cut the tube where the maf was extended the wires to the maf sensor. Added the throttle hose and the modified tube and added my weapon R filter.
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131108_165746_zpsb7e62dc6.jpg.html
the b pipe is not connected yet so its very loud and i tried recording though the audio kind of sucks. what kind of has me worried tho is that it looks like the engine is about to die but doesn't and my mechanic was telling me i may have struck gold an have aftermarket cams since it looks like the screws from the head were a bit chipped so it may not have stock cams. tho hes not sure though and im not sure if you can tell since the audio quality kind of sucks from my phone.and since im new at this ive never heard a car with upgraded cams before. but anyway wont find out until tomorrow
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/VID_20131108_170423_zps71c6e2a0.mp4.html
(not sure how i post vid but posted the link)just a few more finishing touches and test run it and shes finally back home cant wait
The intake is definitely a Caldina intake. Looking at the engine bay setups it really looks like it would fit.
http://i41.tinypic.com/14r6ty.jpg
There has been speculation that air filters like the Weapon R and the HKS mushroom filter cause turbulence inside the intake and give the MAF some funky readings. I'm not sure if it affects everything in a huge way but the setup should work for now. Cams for the BEAMS are very few and very far between, so it's much more likely that a sensor is malfunctioning. Does it idle well before the engine warms up?
Side note, the BEAMS will throw codes without lighting the CEL. It only illuminates the light for major codes, so you might have your mechanic ground the TC pin in the Diagnostics box under the hood and pull any codes it may be throwing that can affect idle.
So when is the first drive?
Thanks for the heads up ill be sure to let him know and have that checked out.hopefully nothing too bad and easily fixed but as far as idling goes im not too sure but ill go check it out later today and get a video. but as far as the test drive goes all fluids have been put and wheels back on, test drive it around the street and go from there. hopefully if all goes great which im really hoping it all does then i should have it back in my garage by Monday, I really miss my car its been almost three weeks now but patience is a virtue i guess and another question since this engine had sat for a while i noticed it may need the belts changed as well as the spark plugs or coils not exactly sure on the name. can i find these parts online? and are there any inter changeable from other car that may be compatible with my engine? thanks in advance
get an apexi air filter they have a funnel type design which allows for my centralized air flow to your meter. according to their pic diagram.
Well i went today and took the car for a spin an i must say MAJOR difference in power shifting 1st and second gear are very stiff at the moment but im pretty sure itll loosen up since the tranny and engine have been sitting there.
at the moment during start the engine seems to be revving by itself (reminds me of a rotatory for some reason.) any ideas what may be causing it??
heres a vid to demonstrate
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131111_130850_zps4c7696f8.mp4
IAC is stuck or bad.
richee3 will have details soon.
The revving at startup is most liky the ISCV. They're known for getting gunked up on the BEAMS. Sometimes a simple cleaning will work, sometimes it needs a complete new valve.
Well then i hope a simple cleaning can fix it but as far as everything goes all works good and running normal CEL is on but yea thanks for the info appreciate all the help guys
Got cleaned and its still doing it so i just may have a bad ISCV ill have to go to venus tomorrow and see if i can get a replacement
The ISCV from an '00-05 Echo will work, or a member here more recently discovered that one from a 2001 Honda Civic with the 1.7 liter will work. Both cost around $150.
Gotta love limited time to post, and leaving out half of the information. The screws in the ISCV are a VERY soft metal and conveniently enough, put in as tight as Toyota could manage. A screwdriver will definitely strip them out. I had to use a die grinder to cut slots in them, effectively making them flat head screws.
ONE WORD:
BEAMS!!!!! shes finally back home where she belongs im so happy!!!!its been a looooong 3 weeks.
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131112_160734_zps9d85d342.jpg.html
heres another pic i got to cleaning most of the ugly blue paint off
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131112_195443_zpsaf1c1e0b.jpg.html
as for the idling prob well i took out the ISCV and cleaned it thanks to this thread
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/29831-3sge-beams-red-top-iscv-engine-idle-rpm-unstable.html
and well it worked but as my engine got warmer it began to idle a little once more but its not as loud as before it now idles between 1 and 2k and before it was 3 to 4k so it got semi fixxed but other than that car runs great everything works no problems and the car feels completely different than my 5s thats for sure
great looking convertible
Thanks man ;D loving the car but the moment i'm having an issue its still idling and before i go about buying a part i first want to be sure that way i'm not carelessly spending and having the same issue any ideas and since i'm a bit new to this how do you go about grounding the tc pin do you use a OBDII Scanner i just want to see whats going bad that way i solve this issue and i've read countless threads and have seen a few other members have had similar issues. Here's a video demonstrating my current issue
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131114_133919_zpse3c45edf.mp4
ive cleaned the ISCV as well as the throttle and still nothing as far as buying that new valve i want to be sure if that's the culprit before i spend 245 at auto zone
need some insight
well i grounded the e1 and tc and got this any ideas??
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131114_153246_zpsaa230141.mp4
OBDII is long gone with the BEAMS. I see a code 21 for sure but the video cut out before the end of the second code.
http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/67398-Toyota-Code-error-(all-models)
21 is the O2 sensor, but that wouldn't kick the light on. Whatever the other code is is why your light is on and it's the one that needs to be addressed. It could be the MAF or the ISCV.
great progress on this. Daniel Richee is THE MAN when it comes to beams. glad you're getting everything sorted out slowly.
alright here we go. so sorry for the wait did a longer vid and uploading took a while from mobile anyways hope this one is better
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131114_165959_zps4bd5c805.mp4
The other code is 33- ISCV. Time to replace that sucker. A new one will be around $150, regardless of if you choose the Echo or Civic ISCV.
So i went today to auto zone and picked up the honda civic iscv as well as some hose clamps and bypass caps
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131115_104541_zps2eaf3938.jpg.html
then i got started
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131115_110808_zps4a5ab32f.jpg.html
heres a pic of side by side nearly identical
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131115_110532_zpsef49eb40.jpg.html
installed it in less than five minutes i was pretty impressed. i made sure to disconnect the battery to be able to reset the ecu installed and connected battery and installed not a very good pic
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_20131115_112131_zps72847340.jpg.html
then i crossed my fingers and started it up sorry for the brightness not sure if you can see it well but seems like it worked
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131115_112200_zps79bf0cf9.mp4
took it for a test run and all seemed fine but it now it idles here for the most part after driving it for a bout a good 45 mins not sure if thats normal or its the aftermarket cams that i was supposedly told by my mechanic that i has
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131115_122001_zps6375aaad.mp4
so then i go an check out the diagnosis box again and ground the tc pin and i still get the same codes both 21 and 33 i just changed the iscv and still getting code 33 not sure anymore.
Once your done driving tonight unhook your battery an GI e the key a few turns an let it set overnight just to make sure the ecu reset.
The chances your beams as aftermarket cams I think is 0%
Pretty sure they didn't make cams for it.
A vacuum leak could be causing high idle too
I agree with Kurt. The chance of having aftermarket cams is very, very slim. The BEAMS was Toyota's first engine to use VVT-i which made it difficult to make a good set of cams, not to mention the engine was only produced for three years so it was out of production before anybody really had a chance. A couple of people have made cams for it but they are VERY rare and VERY expensive.
I'd start checking wiring for the ISCV. Toyota doesn't widely use a code 33 so it's a difficult code to figure out. When it does show up it's usually related to the ISCV. I'd start looking for any shorts, cut/ broken wires, etc. The O2 sensor has little to no effect on the engine so it will store a code but never illuminate the CEL. The ISCV is definitely causing you problems, find the issue with that and you'll solve your idle issue. The ISCV also has a noticeable impact on how the motor revs and runs in gear so you will see an improvement while driving as well.
So i tried looking at the wires so far nothing i didnt encounter any shorts nor open wires then i mixed wires from the ISCV but CEL still showed up and the problem still hasnt been solved even with the new ISCV so that isnt the issue. checked fuses all are good. checked hoses no tears or cuts. im really stuck in a rut and i dont wanna give up and i dont want to have second thoughts but its bad driving her continuously and reving by herself out in the streets im trying to keep a low profile as it is
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131117_123937_zps768b539d.mp4
any other ideas of what may be causing it could it be my ECU?just wish i had a specialist near my area and help me out ill still continue researching and hopefully find a solution to this prob.
Well solved the wiring problem with the ISCV took it to an expert and we took a look at the wiring diagram for the 3sge beams and luckily he read japanese so i was in luck
http://www.mr2.com/files/phoenix/Beams%20Wiring%20Diagram%20-%20Japanese.jpg
He noticed that one of the wires from the iscv wasnt getting ground or something along those lines. So he took apart the harness soldered some wires retaped the mess and now car seems to work fine no more CEL now im wondering is this normal idle for the car or is it too low?
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131120_143543_zps397188e1.mp4
grounded the tc pin again and got this
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131120_122003_zps757feceb.mp4
so no more major codes anymore right?
but you fix one issue for another one to act up
now upon cold start i got to give it gas because it idles too low and continue doing so till the engine warms up then its at normal idle around 900 to 1000 rpm if i dont let it warm up upon cold start it pretty much dies even when in nuetral or even by pressing the brake.so not sure
i then tuned the throttle a bit and resetted the ecu then cleaned the maf as well. so upon cold start maybe high rev and it slowly go down once engine is warm.
sounds better than before and it doesnt drop below 300 as before so any ideas what could be the culprit now??
wow thats amazing, i know denso does the electrics for most japanese automakers but i didn't know even the cast pieces were designed by denso
(the honda and toyota iscv being direct swap pretty much identical)
The BEAMS idles at 750 when warm, higher before it warms up so I'd say it's fixed now. I can't see the video right now but what codes do you have at the moment? Just the O2 sensor?
Exactly, if it's a steady flashing then there are no codes. Time to sit back and enjoy the BEAMS.
Well ill do just that hahaha just now i got see how it goes upon cold start now ill post a vid later demonstrating later today
Well she seems to be back to normal now.(sorry for the music in the background lol)
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b548/1soljaslim5/VID_20131121_123448_zps7e272a30.mp4
its time to enjoy the BEAMS
Besides you stealing my parts I am impressed. How do you plan to smog?
So far so good car runs great still breaking in that engine oil change comming up as well as coolant flush and ill be driving this baby over its life time
Took my ride to a 7th gen celica and mr2 meet out in dublin california and happen to find a picture taken of my car and i wanted to share with you guys
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/1soljaslim5/media/IMG_4989_zpsecfee9be.jpg.html
Nice, Whenever i decide to do a Beams Swap, i know who to run to. Especially someone whos close by.
.
oh you still around cool
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)