6G Celicas Forums

amen to that! Im really hoping that this is what it has been... thanks for the troubleshooting help everyone! will post an update when I can get the piping welded. were you able to see the vid?

Don't forget that it still sounds like your boost gauge is not working correctly.

On a positive note, your motor sounds nice and healthy!

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 11, 2012 - 3:04 PM

thanks lagos! Other than the line thats Tee'd into my intake/BOV from the EBC being too long, what should I check for? IIRC it stays on when I start the car, and the loose fitment of the plug that goes into the back of the gauge was solved (i believe it was loose...)

You should find a gauge that goes to at least zero psi when you floor it in 3rd gear, and also that it returns back to 0 when you turn off the car.

What boost gauge is it?

AEM tru boost EBC

Sounds complicated. You probably have a setting wrong or something. Did you read through the owners manual to make sure its setup correctly?

yeah, Its not actually hooked up to any boost lines to control anything yet. I have the instructions on video via Youtube, so i will go over it again to be sure, but im pretty sure it was ok as it was accurately reading just wastegate pressure before the leak

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=playe...geWatdb4#t=158s

Are you set on PSI, BAR or KPA?

There is also a setting there for internal or external map sensor, depending if you are running 1-29psi or 1-50psi. If this is set wrong, your gauge would read lower than it should.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 12, 2012 - 4:51 PM

im set to PSI. and im assuming as far as settings for map sensor internal is the way i will be going as i will not be running more than 29PSI

I plan on keeping the PSI level at 15 until I have the water/meth in, then I will adjust further. How did you set yours according to your water/meth setup?

CHECK to see what its set to right now. If its set incorrectly, it would explain why you are not seeing at least 0psi.

definitely... will be sure tomorrow eve.

hey everybody, finally found someone to help me out welding my IC piping to eliminate all the couplers I had (and the ones that were leaking)

Lagos: I have come to the conclusion that the gauge is working properly after i inspected all connections and lines leading to it.

Unfortunately elimiating 5 couplers by welding didnt do the trick (though i was able to get to at least 2inches of vacuum now instead of 6 which definitely leads me to believe my turbo has taken a Shat. I suppose internal seals failed. I dead headed the turbo and placed a gauge on the outlet. when i gave it gas it only made about 4psi at 5k rpm. I understand the motor should be under load but the turbo should be performing better than that.

I will be replacing it and putting on another CT20b this weekend hopefully.


will let you all know what happens!




This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Jan 23, 2013 - 10:57 PM

.

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Jan 28, 2013 - 10:34 PM

before switching the turbos I decided to test the turbo by "dead heading" it and inserting a pressure gauge measuring in PSI. some say the turbo needs to have load on it however even standing still should it not be blowing out more pressure?

turbo test

where is your boost gauge connected to? at idle you should be getting 18-20 inHG not 2 to 6.

Matt, the thing about this test is that there is no load on the engine. You are really not supposed to be able to build any boost this way. I bet I would get exactly the same results if I did this on my car and my turbo works fine.

Lagos is right on this one. The test you've done is useless. At free-revving, there isn't enough exhaust air flow to drive the turbine at a high enough RPM to build boost on the compressor side. Also, a turbo isn't a positive displacement pump. Unlike a roots supercharger where there is always the same volume of air forced into the supercharger, it's not because a compressor is doing a revolution that a certain amount of air will be force into the compressor outlet. It takes a lot of turbo RPM to build boost o the compressor outlet side.

I can't beleive you have not ruled out this problem yet. I'm not saying that you didn't try hard enough, you certainly did. But I'm sure you missed something really basic. A turbocharger isn't something that is really complicated. I suggest you to go back to the base. Do a boost pressure test from the turbo compressor. Be sure to block off the IAC inlet. Verify that you can get at least 30 PSI in this test.

The other test is to verify that the wastegate stay shut and that all the exhaust airflow actually pass through the turbine.

Then, physically verify that turning the turbine result into a compressor revolution and make sure that the shaft is turning freely. Verify that the turbine wheel is in OK shape (no bent/broken blades).

If all those points are ruled out, there is no physical reason for this turbo to not boost.

Are you sure your boost gauge is accurate and correctly connected to the intake manifold. It should read about -19 inHG at idle, 0 psi when the engine is off. Verify if it is correctly displaying a boost event using a mityvac or compressed air (be sure to use a pressure regulator and set it at around 25 PSI).

Do not give up!

Sam

I figured as much and i knew better! lol did it anyway to make sure. I remember when sitting still on my previous swap, i could rev the engine and there would be Blow off. It no longer does it.



thanks for the vote of confidence sam! I have done almost everything at least twice.

I will do another boost pressure test as last time I didnt run it THROUGH the turbo compressor I took the piping off of the turbo and pressurized from beginning of piping to end. (I was told I would ruin the turbo if too much PSI was put through it)

I took the turbo off (even separating it from the manifold) and spun it while inspecting all areas smoothly without touching the housing. all looks good on the fins as well

boost gauge reads 0 when car is off however when at idle it fluctuates from -14HG to -16 and has gotten as low as -12 at times.

as far as the IAC is concerned, I do notice that the car will idle strangely (drop in RPM from 1000 to 800, and at times feels like it wants to cut off) After fixing a hole in the hose nest to the IAC there is still some trouble, but I will clean the IAC with brake cleaner to be sure.

Im fairly certain that the WG is closed and that the flapper is ok as I have placed the car on a dyno without downpipe to inspect it and hold it closed

wastegate/dyno


again thanks for all your help guys! I will keep trying!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Feb 15, 2013 - 7:14 PM

guys its not measured in negative numbers. its measured in inches of mercury which is considered a vacuum. if you made it negative then its considered boost. make sense?

now 14 to 16 is pretty low and 12 is really low. have you done a compression test?

I havent done one since the problem started, its not often on 12 but consistently 15-16