6G Celicas Forums

So believe it or not, it's been a little chilly in Florida the past few days. By chilly I mean low to mid 40s. I know its snowing in other parts of the world but for FL, it's chilly! I started my car Monday, turned over just fine and then promptly the rpm's fell to 0 and it died. I tried again, same thing. I thought if i drive it some it'll warm up and be fine. It died 3 more times when the clutch was pushed if, so i had to keep my foot on the gas so it wouldn't die used my left foot to brake to get to work. after about 5-10 minutes of that it would run without dying. I'm thinking that the battery's ok, else it wouldn't have turned over at all correct? Anybody have an idea why a cold engine would die like that? I'm stumped.

This post has been edited by PaddyTapps: Mar 27, 2013 - 3:38 PM

Does it only die when you push the clutch in, or will it just not run at all? And when it does is it abrupt or does it slow down until it dies? Have you done anything to the engine recently?

As soon as I turn it on it dies so yeah only with the clutch in and not on the gas. Haven't done a thing to the engine.

Just drove to pick up dinner and on the way back it started to shudder really badly, not only while idling at a stop light but while driving too. Accelerating and even maintaining 30-35 mph i could feel it, almost seemed like it was going to shut down, but never did. I'm thinking it's going to have to go to the dealership this weekend and that = lotsa $ cuz heck if i know what's goin on

It could be a number of things. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel pump, stuck open injector(s), compression loss... If you haven't replaced any maintenance item (spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, spark plug wires, fuel filter) I'd start there, since it's a good idea to do it anywho.

My thoughts exactly. Beat me to it. . .

Thanks guys. I'm tempted to say that it's misfiring, which really is no surprise to me because the car has been neglected for who knows how long. I'm going to replace spark plugs & wires and sea foam the gas tank, oil, and vacuum tube to the intake manifold this weekend and an oil and filter change. Even though she leaks oil, I have no idea when the last one was done so definitely going to get that done. If that clears the issue up, great! if not then I'll look into the distributor cap & rotor and everything else. If all else fails, then to the service center we go

save your money, that seafoam is just crap!

If it helps, I saved $3 on it when i bought it a few weeks ago lol, but I've used it before and had no issues, what makes you say its crap?

On an old vehicle with alot of residue in the intake manifold, which I am assuming you intend to boost it in.

All it does is loosen it up into a gummy form a crud that clogs shiz further.

In the oil right before a change, I mean literally right before not 500 miles later, may help. Along with it potentially cleaning some items in the gas section..but other means are worthless IMO. Clogged the hell out of my TB on my ST when I did it, had to remove and clean it all out.

hm, never knew that. I used to have a tiburon i used it on and an explorer and never really noticed anything bad. I'll take your guys' word for it though, as I've never had to remove a TB or intake manifold. thanks for the heads up!

sounds like idle speed valve to me

Pulled the spark plugs this is what i found:

in order as if looking at the engine bay straight on

looking down into where that spark plug came from, and notice some stuff around the injector? dunno how that got there.

another view.. looks nasty!

nice n shiny wet spark plug, smells like gas

Is this just a case of bad plugs or is there something else causing that one plug to be soaked in gas?

Looks like coked oil to me. Might want to check for leaks into the plugs/oil consumption.

Oil is definitely leaking from the oil pan gasket, need to get that fixed and check after to see how much oil consumption is goin on. I changed the plugs and wires this afternoon, no more dying but it idles extremely low. It drops down to about 200 rpm on start up and comes back up to about 500. I know the idler pulley needs replacing, but I don't think that the pulley being bad would make my rpms so low.

The idler pulley doesn't control your idle. It just helps the tensioner pulley give tension to the belt.

Check the rest of the ignition components, you might need to replace spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor.

Yeah I didn't think the pulley had anything to do with it. How can I tell if the the cap and rotor are bad?

It's hard, but usually they just lose conductivity and cause a weak spark or no spark at all. You can check them and see if they look worn out (dark, luster-less metal for example)

You could also take them to a local autoparts and ask for both and compare. I don't think there's any real "test" for them, they're just one of those maintenance items you replace every couple of months, like the gasoline filter.

Looks to me like you either have bad rings on #2 or a head gasket leak on #2. My 7a looked like that on #3. Also IAC might need to be cleaned for your idle issue.

My money is on the rings. When i can afford it they are going to get replaced. Also, I found the thread concerning the 5S-FE IAC cleaning process but my attempt to find one for the 7A-FE hasn't produced anything. Are they in the same place and is it the same process? Thanks for the replies and info everyone!