6G Celicas Forums

The settings sound OK. At this point, it looks like the only things to suspect are the adapter and the module; I'm not seeing any obvious assembly errors. If the USB adapter passes a loopback test, email me and I'll set up a warranty return on the MicroSquirt Module.

This topic sparks my interest.

Thanks for joining our forum here Matt! I'll keep you posted!

You did Jumper the board for programming........right?

Yes the boot jumper is in place. I even have continuity between ground and the boot pin on microsquirt, so the jumper is on and working.
I also performed loopback tests on the usb to serial cable, as well as a loopback going through the board. Everything checked out.

The only problem I found is that I'm not getting either 5v or ground (not sure which I should have with diypnp) on pin9 of the db9 connector. I don't know if this is what's causing the issue.

^^ Good info.

In my line of work we have to use those types of USB>RS232 for many applications as the others fall off. Some of the equipment is very close in design for what you guys are doing, just it controls transmitters =P

I take it that your board is getting 12V+ from your car and a good GND connection? Its difficult to troubleshoot when their isn't any wiring schematics at DIYautotune

Yup. My 12v and 5v pins all check out and it looks like microsquirt is getting power. I ran serial loop back tests through the pcb board, have continuity between the serial port pinouts and microsquirt and I'm getting power and ground at all the right pinouts from the serial port. Everything should work.

You're right, I didn't see any detailed schematics for the diypnp 1.5b pcb board like there are for ms2, ms3, and microsquirt. But from what I can tell, it looks like the serial port goes directly through the pcb board into the microsquirt module, so if I have continuity between the serial port and pcb, everything should work.

So all signs are point to it being an issue with the preassembled micrsquirt board. I'll be sending it back to diyautotune for testing and hopefully it ends up being a warranty replacement issue.

Good Luck!

:bump: What happened to this!

hopefully its not like my project :eeps:

I had trouble loading the firmware as stated above. It turned out that the problem was with a bad Microsquirt board (the one circuit board that actually comes preassembled). DIYAutotune replaced the board for free and now that issue is resolved. The only problem left is that I am not getting a good cam signal and the car wont start. I messed around with it for a bit and still have a few more things to try, but with school and the holidays, the project got put on the back burner...so yeah it kinda turned into a Dan project.

Any updates?

Are you using the stock distributor's sensor for cam signal?

Yes, but I'm having trouble getting megasquirt to see it. You have MS2 on your car? How are you getting your cam signal?

I'm waiting till the end of this month to get back into this project once I actually have a bit of free time to waste. Its really just down to a single thing keeping it from running.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 16, 2013 - 8:31 PM

Yes, I'm using MS2. We tapped it directly at the distributor. Do yourself a favor and get a 98+ oil pump with crank sensor setup. Mine ran (before the engine died) and could be tuned and everything, but it never turned on right (sometimes sent spark with intake valves open, sounded like a loud scrape, like when you tighten a thick ziptie, and then smoke came out the throttle body)

You need a 98+ oil pump, the 98+ crank timing gear and the crank sensor. It's a 36-2 wheel and I'm pretty sure the MS2 has the capability to decode it. It's a little bit more work than you'd want, but it for sure is a much more reliable setup.

For full sequential, if you want, you could also get the bracket for the cam sensor, the cam sensor and the cam sprocket with the single tooth. My 98+ engine I bought recently had all of that on it. I don't have any part numbers on had right now, though, sorry about that.

EDIT: I don't know if you've opened the stock distributor to take a look at the trigger wheel, but it's not a regular trigger wheel. It's weird in that it's got 4 slanted tooth. It's pretty advanced for its time, something only the OEM ECU can decode.

Before I bought the new engine, I was going to do a different setup that worked on a friend's MR2. I was going to use a rev1 5sfe distributor and 420a coils. I bought the setup but never used it, if you'd like to try that for a less involved setup. You need to do a couple of things though. You need to make hybrid plug wires out of your 5S plug wires and the 420a plug wires I have (you need the connectors for the coils since they're HEI female-type, vs our Male-type connectors) and you need to align the 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distributor to TDC and calculate the tooth you need to dremel out for it to be a 24-1 trigger wheel which the MS2 can read perfectly, and it's got enough resolution for translation to Crank Position.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Apr 16, 2013 - 9:00 PM

I also forgot to mention you'd need 2 BIP373 in your MS, because the coils are coils only, not coils with in-built igniters. So if you already have one, you'd just need to solder in another.

Thanks for the advice, but its a little different with the DIYPNP and the basic MS2. The DIYPNP should have everything needed to decode the stock distributor. I have talked to at least one person who has their car running on it, and DIYAUTOTUNE developed an MSPNP based on it.

I'm getting a good clean crank signal from the distributor, but nothing shows up for the cam. Normally they tell you to use a resistor to "pull down" the threshold that the ecu is seeing with a 51kohm resistor. This is what they do to get their MSPNP units to work. However for me this did not work. I am taking my cam signal from the G1 input, and I'm thinking there might be some issue with my distributor. I'm going to rewire it to take the cam signal from G2 and see how that works. If I'm still having problems, I can run the signal through the LM185 conditioner, and hopefully that would resolve the issue. The real problem is that very few people have done this before, and there is no tutorial for me to just follow in someone's footsteps.

I really wish I had a spare 3sgte distributor here, just so that I could do all of this on the bench and spin the distributor with a drill. This would make things a lot easier to figure out, then to have to run out to the car everytime I make a small adjustment.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 16, 2013 - 9:40 PM

I forgot your DIYPNP is for the 3SGTE, right?

I'm pretty sure I've got an extra distributor laying around that I had planned on rebuilding. I can send it to you if you'd like to borrow it.

Yes. Are you running yours on a 5sfe?




That would be awesome!