6G Celicas Forums

Im doing a jdm 3sge gen 3 swap and the darn thing wont even try to crank like the battery is dead. I know im getting power b/c theres a fully charged battery in it plus all lights works ect. Basically i try to turn it over and it doesnt even crank, no response just silent. Any idea everyone? Heres a list of things i swapped in:

-JDM GEN 3 3SGE ENGINE (non beams, just the regular one) + TRANNY
-JDM COMPLETE ENGINE HARNESS (WITH THE FUSE BOX ATTACHED)
-3SGE GEN 3 ECU part numer: 89661-2D490
-ORIGINAL IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER W/ OEM KEY (alarm control built into key)

Note: key, lock cylinder, and ecu came from the same donor Celica located in Unitied Kingdoms (most likely EUR spec st202). Also note that Im using my stock body harness in my 99' celica is a USDM spec st204.

I havent installed the new lock cylinder yet, but will try to soon. Does it really matter that im using EUR spec 3sge ecu on a JDM 3sge and JDM engine harness? Could it be that the ecu i ordered has a immobilizer programmed on it and car isnt responding because im not using the key that came with ecu? And also maybe the pin outs on the ecu dont match up with the engine harness? Well i appreciate any help from anyone who did this swap or have alot of knowledge on these swap, thanks a whole lot in advance!

I'm not English speaker, please try to understand what I mean.

First, please use JDM ECU, pins of JDM / EURO's ECU may not match.

I had swap JDM's 3S several times to Thai spec ST204.
No repin required for non beams engine, except additional A/T indicating lamps.

But your car is LHD, extension is surely require.
Then please also check harness.

I'm pretty sure that all of 3S ECU had no immobilizer.
You may change your key without any problem.

I actually made the rhd harness barely fit on the lhd body lol. I hand to cut them out of all the tape to separate them. Its a bit messy but i will extend them and get it professionally wrapped up. Ok thanks for the input, i will try to look at the pinouts for the ecu and harness. Oh and my mom is from bangkok, thailand also "cop kun krap"
More input is welcomed!

got your pm, but thought it might be better replying here

UK spec are a bit special as they sometimes differ from our JDM spec ST202, from what I understand the UK owners have a factory immobiliser. Haven't come across a JDM one that has.
the ecu part number you gave SHOULD work.

first thing to do is to check all connections are correctly connected, pushed in the whole way, earth grounds off the motor & trans. as your not even cranking yet.



also I'm pretty sure the white little box with little ball point button you were talking about is the door alarm

Yeah I kinda figured that it was the door alarm, idk why he sent one with the ecu lol. I'm 100% sure I got all the grounds but ima double check those connections this weekend. Also kevinpetch say its the jdm harness having different pin outs than the EUR spec ecu. Can you confirm this? I would hate to try to locate another 3sge ecu ugh

afaik no ecu pin difference, the ecu number 89661-2D490 also comes up in the Japanese part numbers for a 1995

so my advice is to check wiring, connections and fuses, see at what point your not getting power

If it's not cranking it has nothing to do with the ECU. Either your battery is dead or your harness is done correctly, or your fuse is blown. Check the neutral safety switch, but since you made the harness i'm assuming you have the wiring diagrams. Get a multimeter and it shouldnt be hard to figure out.


There's nothing complicated about the starter. You could even hotwire it and just run 12v directly to the starter solenoid, with key on power and it will start (provided everything else is fine, it will at least crank).

This post has been edited by czwalga: May 2, 2013 - 7:56 AM

All connection seems to be there. I'm gonna check the wiring diagrams to really make sure everything goes where they are suppose to. I have a feeling that I have a odbII to obdI type of problem.....

Stupid question, but did you have to do anything with the clutch start wire/neutral start wire? If it needed to be repinned but hasn't been moved yet, then absolutely nothing would happen when you turn the key. OBD would not cause starting issues.

It's nothing related to OBDI/OBDII. I've done the swap and built the harness.... the starter circuit is simple. No ECU/OBD involved at all.

If it was cranking and wouldnt start then yeah it could be a whole crapload of problems... if its not cranking it's a miswire within the starter circuit.



Best $20 you can spend if you're doing a swap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-TOYOTA-CELICA...1dc&vxp=mtr
That book has great wiring schematics, I wished I had similar ones for all my other cars. I have the generic black and white ones, but the colored ones make it so easy to read.

You really don't even need them for the 3sge, as long as you have the ECU, that and this book you should have enough info to piece everything together. But really the starter is unrelated.

This post has been edited by czwalga: May 3, 2013 - 7:22 AM

Oh on the whole wiring thing, I didn't cut the harness apart. When I said I made the RHD harnesses to fit LHD; I was saying that I just took those hard plastic covers off the harness and some of the electric tape off so that I could flip the harness to fit at the moment. It kinda messy by will send it off to a shop to extend the wiring, some wires are little tight for comfort, the only wire that wasn't plugged in b/c they weren't long enough was the wire for the speed sensor or reverse switch on top of the tranny........ hmmm could that actually be the neutral switch?

Is the swap an auto or manual? Same goes for the chassis. I'm assuming they are both manual. If you can post a picture of the plug that isn't plugged in, we can tell you which it is. Speed sensor is closer to the firewall on the trans, mounted kind of low. Reverse light plug is on top of the trans and pretty easy to reach.

.

This post has been edited by ink_eyes_25: May 5, 2013 - 3:14 AM

Its a manual chassis swaping in a manual motor and trans. Yeah its the reverse switch. Idk I may have to take the whole harness out to trace the problem or see if this ecu is bad is there a way to check if its bad or not, I did buy it at such a low price.

This post has been edited by ink_eyes_25: May 5, 2013 - 3:15 AM

Did you not read a single thing I said? ECU has nothing to do with the car cranking why do you want to replace it. Buy the green book wiring I posted, the starter circuit for a 3sge and 5sfe is exactly the same. It'll help you trace.


Most likely you didn't splice the harness correctly together in the front fuse box area going from the car body harness to the engine wiring harness. I've bought two engines and both of them hard that portion of the harness cut, so you had to use the one originally with the car.

This post has been edited by czwalga: May 5, 2013 - 7:35 AM

Oops I seem to be back tracking. The harness that I bought came complete and uncut. So considering your input, I'm guessing I do have a problem in the starter circuit. Possibly a shorted wire. I will take a look at that green book at post my findings. Also thanks alot for your help.

Still working on that harness, but while I have y'all attention; the 5sfe CC axles are suppose to work with the 3s. I can't seem to fit the long axle ( one with the half shaft)

I'm surprised no one recommended the crank sensor if it is bad the car will not attempt to start sue to the fact that the ecu isn't getting input from the sensor check and make sure the sensor isn't bad by checking for resistance on the sensor.

It would still crank.

.

This post has been edited by dmk: Feb 22, 2020 - 11:07 AM