6G Celicas Forums

I swear I'm not stalking your thread

But I got a tip from czwalga that if you use the gt4 arms, it moves the subframe up 1/2".

Try the GT arms?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqQ99s4Ywnw

This post has been edited by qatar11: May 7, 2013 - 8:16 PM

Lol love the vid hahahahah... Keep up the good work

As hinted by Malek (What is your name, anyway?) Steve (czwalga) had a similar problem with fitment. Between making his own drive shaft mounts and using the GT trailing arms which are longer, he is able to make it all fit. I have reached out to a few local shops that can shorten the drive shaft a scoush. Hopefully I can get some precise measurements over the weekend and get that going on Monday.

FYI I did not use GT trailing arms. I did use the GT4 arms.



My suggestion is unbolt the driveshaft. Just get the first part that goes into the transmission and take a rubber mallet and see if you can pound it in any further.

My name is actually Malek
If pounding the small end doesn't work, you weren't planning on cutting the center and having it rewelded were you? I'm not sure if there many more options but I really don't want to do that on mine haha

Whelp... there is more room that the drive shaft can go into the trans, ~ 17 mm or so... and that's with the slots on the mount fully consumed... However I think that is by design so you can remove this part of the drive shaft without disrupting the entire drive line for Trans work, etc....




However, I cannot buy that I missed locating the drive shaft mounts that much - especially since they are formed to the sheet metal of the car - they just would not have laid down well enough to weld in the wrong location.


So as my old middle school wood shop teacher used to say, "Measure twice and cut once" - I put the wheel on to see how it looked in the wheel well and... all I can say is no mi gusta:



I think I am going to back away from the drive shaft shortening idea and return to the trailing arm length conspiracy theories - I, of course, busted the bolt trying to harvest my GT ones so I think its a trip to car-parts.com.

I wouldn't wish working on a 15+ year old midwestern car on my worstest of enemies (Ya that's right - worstest)

This post has been edited by qatar11: May 11, 2013 - 3:11 PM

Mike,

Keep in mind that there is 3 unibody sections. Front is the same between GT4/GT. The middle and rear sections of the unibody are not the same, so where you welded the mounts may not be the same location on the gt4, even if it did seem to fit into place.

Its says in the specs for the GT4 that the european models have a 5mm longer wheelbase - http://gtfours.co.uk/stuff/facts/205/facts.htm

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: May 13, 2013 - 7:37 AM

This is true... but what is forcing the rear subfram so far forward is the trailing arms.. and I think that is just the fact that, as you said, the unibody in the back is not the same. I am going to try to get some GT arms and see what that does for the position. I am also entertaining the idea of using turnbuckles here.



This is interesting but I think i need to move the subframe back inches... not millimeters.... but you'd be surprised how much a few mm maters


Also... its absolutely criminal that these are buried under the intercooler


This post has been edited by qatar11: May 13, 2013 - 8:49 AM

Before you spring into GT arms, let me compare mine. I have both the GT and GT4 arms. I'll see how much of a difference there is.

Idk about you, but I hate buying something when it ends up not working haha

You're complaining about the spark plugs under the intercooler? Don't ever get a Subaru

I've done the measurement between the GT4 and GT trailing arms. Remember to measure hole to hole, not the length of the arm itself. I think the arm lengths are similar, but the holes are in slightly different locations. It's been a while so I cant remember.


The CV joint can move in and out a little, so that can account for some of the slop. You really dont need much to seperate it. 1/4" at most. In all of my rwd cars, the driveshaft fits pretty damn tight with the rear differential. Kinda similar in this case as well after I made the mounts.

You really want to slide the driveshaft over the tailshaft of the transmission as much as possible as there's more spline engagement. Although we're talking relatively low HP here so it probably will be near the bottom of the list of things to fail.

This post has been edited by czwalga: May 13, 2013 - 2:17 PM

You know what is a concern of mine right now is the wheel location in the wheel well - it is well forward... I took the spring off so i could compress the strut and see where the wheel lands at a more realistic height. If the wheel lands in a good spot - I can maybe elongate the center drive shaft mount holes and just eat up some of the difference in the trans....

What the hell is the point of a gasket overhaul kit if you do not include all the gaskets?! ZOMGWTFBBQCHUCKNORRIS
...
<pulls hair out>
...
<orders **** from England>
...

I have been looking at the diff with st202 vs st205 to make AWD ,

i seen u have the rear clip as well!

Did u change frame rails in the rear ? as well did it come with gas tank?

I think the frame rails in the rear need to be change to line up your rear sub-frame

All will be answered soon!

GT4 gas tank is useless for a st202.

really ! so what did u have to use ?

could you not drill out trunk floor and use that with the frame rail ? would equal a factory like swap ?
or is the body diff as well in the middle ?

when u change yours to AWD did u just cut car and weld ? from roof to rear bumper ?

This post has been edited by celica95-95: May 15, 2013 - 2:21 PM

I cut the spare tire well out and it still fit like ****... The entire floor of the ST202 is lower, not to mention the fact that the filler tube would have to be some kind of custom setup. Much cheaper to just make your own.


I have a FIA fuel cell, which is pricey, but only because its required for rally. You could do a cheap fuel cell setup built to specifications that fit the space you're working with. Without replacing the back 2/3rds of the shell nothing you could do to make it a factory swap. Somethings are going to have to custom. There's different options on how to get there, but nothing will be like factory.

good to know !

so getting a rear clip is not the best pick to go AWD ?

what about the rear sub frame to line your's did you drill new holes

This post has been edited by celica95-95: May 15, 2013 - 3:00 PM