6G Celicas Forums

Hey guys, first post. Long story short, I have a 2004 BMW 325i that is abysmal on MPG for some reason, no matter what I change, I can barely squeeze 20mpg. I am looking at a 1994 celica Gt hatchback auto, in hopes of getting a cheap reliable commuter car (70% hwy/30%city) that is better on gas than my BMW. My folks have a 1999 camry w/180K miles and absolutely no problems, so I am assuming the internals are similar and experience should be relatively similar? I found one on craigslist listed for 2200, black 1994 hatch w/ 141K miles. Is that a fair deal on these cars? What kind of MPGs are you guys seeing on your GT autos? Thanks!

This post has been edited by leb_toyota: Jul 10, 2013 - 8:46 PM

How fast are you on the freeway?

With the kind of mix you're talking (70% highway / 30% city) at between 60~80MPH, I average around 26~27MPG; the more highway the higher it goes - my personal best being 34MPG.

2200 for a '94 w/ 141k isn't too bad.

I usually stay anywhere between 65-75mph on the highway, I never go over 80. I'm totally baffled by why my BMW is such crap on gas. Always 93 gas, 7K inteval full synthetic oil changes, etc... I sure do hope the celica will be better. Should I offer 1500 for the celica then? And conventional oil + 87 gas correct?

If you want gas mileage get the ST 5-speed, I see 34-36 consistently with mine. In fairness your car new was rated at 19/27 and updated is rated at 17/25. Not saying you do, but if you floor it all the time you'll get poor mileage. If your car is running rich that'll hurt you as well. The auto Celica GT new was rated at 23/30 and updated is rated at 21/27. If gas mileage is such a concern you really should learn to drive a manual, that or get a hybrid. Or do both, the older Honda Insights are still unsurpassed.

Hard to tell the price without pics. $2200 is a good price.

I bought my 2nd 6gc 2 1/2 years ago for $2700 at 205k miles. Fixed the oil leak and misc maintenance, it is now at 272k miles.

My best mpg was 35 running at 62 mph ave for 460 miles

This post has been edited by nics: Jul 10, 2013 - 9:33 PM

It doesn't care if I floor it and launch from 1st gear. The past 2 tanks I have kept RPMs under 2500 and only negligible improvement over super aggressive driving. I was reading the motor in the ST suffers from oil leaking/burning more so than the GT motor? And does a 5spd really help MPGs over an auto?


This is what I'm looking at:
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/3914265800.html

seller said only issue is the A/C doesn't get really cold.....how much $$$ to fix that?

This post has been edited by leb_toyota: Jul 10, 2013 - 10:32 PM

The only reason manual saves more gas is because you get to control your "throttle" basically.

I say in town, MT saves more. But on the highway, AT saves more gas.

MT = shorter gears and 5 spd
AT = longer gears and 4 spd

Yes the 7A-FE is notorious for having stuck oil rings, and hence burning oil. I've heard instances with the 5S-FE burning oil as well though. For what it's worth mine burns less than a quart every 1,000 miles, it's minor enough that you never see smoke from the exhaust. Not bad for an engine with over 190,000 miles on it with nothing but basic maintenance.


Actually it's because with a manual it's direct between the engine and transmission gearing, where as the conventional automatic has a hydraulic medium and is nowhere as efficient in comparison. Once you get into these newer manumatics it's really negligible, but a manual will always be more efficient than an automatic with a torque converter for the aforementioned reason. Even if both were to get the same mpg the manual is faster.

This post has been edited by Box: Jul 11, 2013 - 2:01 AM

Yea. That's what I meant. Just didn't really know how to explain it all out. Lol. You just get to control how much do you want to open the throttle. Lower the gear you're in. The less throttle you'll need to pick up or maintain speed.

I hate driving AT because of this. I'm always speeding in an AT. I like to be in full control of my gears/engine/speed. Lol.

Be more eloquent like myself. Besides the best part of driving a manual is ridiculing all those that can't.

Anyhow, provided the car is in good shape $2,200 is a fair price.

This post has been edited by Box: Jul 11, 2013 - 4:14 AM

Sounds like you have to recharge the system with new refrigerant, an A/C recharge kit is $30-50.



I would agree with Mr. Box again, it's not just that - upon deceleration, the torque converter's action causes more fuel to be used.

As far as oil burning goes, mine records no burnt oil at 115k miles.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jul 11, 2013 - 7:29 AM

Doesn't the lack of cold AC indicate there is a leak someplace? It's never as simple as a recharge (in my experience). I can't for the life of me seem to find a black gen 6 celica hatch/coupe with a 5spd. All the black 5spds i find are convertibles. If anybody has a lead on one, let me know!

They're out there, quite a few on this site actually. If it needs recharged that means there is a leak somewhere, but what 20 year old car doesn't leak to a degree? As long as it isn't needed more than once a year you're doing ok for a car of that age.

This post has been edited by Box: Jul 11, 2013 - 1:15 PM

When you test drive it, turn on the AC. Drive it around and see how cold it gets. Check the AC button if it is blinking, it means that the compressor is bad.

I've looked on this site but I can't seem to find any. If you find any please direct me to them, or refer them to me! As for the AC, the '99 camry we have blows as cold as the day we bought it!

Get a white one. Or silver. Much more easier to keep clean.

Silver.....you can't see the dust or dirt on it at all. Lol.

Lucky lucky me stumbled on this Celica today on craigslist:
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/3931086124.html

I will call the fella tomorrow. Does this seem too good to be true?

Not sure if it's the photos/water on car/clear peeling on the bonnet and rear. Interior is a little rough, but all that is the fun of repairing the car to her former glory
I would use those, and any other point you can pick to lower the price a bit


Make sure you test drive it well though, and inspect everything you physically can prior to even offering a price, if you pick anything use it to lower the price


When buying any car, just be patient and the right one WILL come up eventually